Broad Peak

Template:Short description Template:For Template:Infobox mountain Template:Infobox Chinese Broad Peak (Template:Langx; Template:Langx)<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with Template:Convert elevation above sea level. The first ascent of this mountain was in June 1957, accomplished by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl as part of an Austrian expedition.

GeographyEdit

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan situated on the border of Pakistan and China.<ref name=peakbagger/> It is located in the Karakoram mountain range, approximately Template:Convert from K2. The peak's name aptly describes its physical characteristics, with a summit that extends over 1.5 kilometers (7⁄8 miles) in length, giving it the appearance of a "broad peak."<ref name=peakware/>

Three of the mountain's five summits are eight-thousanders: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), with Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m) being the other two peaks.Template:Citation needed

EtymologyEdit

The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people.<ref name=evnews/> The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.<ref>Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000</ref>

Climbing historyEdit

The first ascent of Broad Peak was achieved between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). The first ascent took the West Spur and was accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters, or base camp support.<ref name=evnews/>

In July 2007, an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.<ref>„Broad Peak 2007“ Template:Webarchive Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)</ref><ref name=alpinist_2007_0725/>

In 2008, French mountaineer Élisabeth Revol made solo ascents of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of supplemental oxygen.<ref name="blue">Template:Cite news</ref>

In the winter and summer of 2009, there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.<ref name=expweb_2009_0720/>

In the summer of 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000", a Slovenian team led by Gregor Lačen, summitted the mountain without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. They established a route in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit, used by seven additional climbers from other expeditions. All summitted on July 31, 2012.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent and conquered the mountain peak without oxygen during the winter. Broad Peak was the twelfth eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth eight-thousander first summitted in winter by the Polish climbers.<ref name=thenews/> During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski.<ref name=ap_2013_0307/> On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.<ref name=planet_mtn/><ref name=AAJ_2013/>

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during the descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.<ref name=expweb_2013_0719/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}Template:Cbignore</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On July 14, 2019, 17-year-old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak.<ref name=Kashif>Template:Cite news</ref>

TimelineEdit

1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.<ref name=evnews/>
1957 First ascent by an Austrian expedition.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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1982 Reinhold Messner summits.
1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.<ref name=PalmowskaFA/><ref name=AAJ_1986/>
1984 Broad Peak climbed in one-day (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21.5 hours; the first one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>
1988 March 6, Maciej Berbeka climbs to the 'Rocky Summit' (8028 m), becoming the first person to reach one of the summits of Broad Peak over 8000m during the winter.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau Ferré, Òscar Cadiach, Alberto Soncini and Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.<ref name=AAJ_1995/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent.<ref name=mtnzone1997/>
2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.Template:Citation needed
2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached 8000 m.Template:Citation needed
2019 July 14, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude.<ref name=Kashif />
2019 July 26, Nirmal Purja summits Broad-Peak with his team 'Elite Exped', as part of his expedition to climb all 14 peaks exceeding 8000m in a record time of less than 7 months.
2023 Nirmal Purja and Migma G summit Broad Peak as part of an effort to climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks with supplemental oxygen.