Pasty

A pasty (Template:IPAc-en<ref>Oxford Learner's Dictionaries, s.v. "pasty" Template:Webarchive.</ref>) or Cornish pasty is a British baked pastry, a variety of which is particularly associated with Cornwall, but has spread all over the British Isles, and elsewhere through the Cornish diaspora.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> It consists of a filling, typically meat and vegetables, baked in a folded and crimped shortcrust pastry circle.

The traditional Cornish pasty, which since 2011 has had Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in Europe,<ref name=L193 /> is filled with beef, sliced or diced potato, swede (also known as yellow turnip or rutabaga – referred to in Cornwall and other parts of the West Country as turnip) and onion, seasoned with salt and pepper, and baked. Today, the pasty is the food most associated with Cornwall. It is a traditional dish and accounts for 6% of the Cornish food economy. Pasties with many different fillings are made, and some shops specialise in selling pasties.

The origins of the pasty are unclear, though there are many references to them throughout historical documents and fiction. The pasty is now popular worldwide because of the spread of Cornish miners and sailors from across Cornwall, and variations can be found in Australia, Mexico, the United States, Ulster and elsewhere.

History

File:Pasty2.jpg

An old postcard from Cornwall showing a partly eaten pasty

Despite the modern pasty's strong association with Cornwall, its origins are unclear. The English word "pasty" derives from Medieval French (O.Fr. paste from V.Lat pasta<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>) for a pie, filled with venison, salmon or other meat, vegetables or cheese, baked without a dish.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Pasties have been mentioned in cookbooks throughout the ages. For example, the earliest version of Guillaume Tirel's cookbook Le Viandier, which has been dated to Template:Circa, contains several pasty recipes.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> In 1393, Le Ménagier de Paris contains recipes for pasté with venison, veal, beef or mutton.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

Other early references to pasties include a charter that was granted by King John of England to the town of Great Yarmouth in 1208. The town was bound to send to the sheriffs of Norwich every year one hundred herrings, baked in twenty four pasties, which the sheriffs delivered to the lord of the manor of East Carlton who then conveyed them to the king.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Around the same time, 13th-century chronicler Matthew Paris wrote of the monks of St Albans Abbey "according to their custom, lived upon pasties of flesh-meat".<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> In 1465, 5,500 venison pasties were served at the installation feast of George Neville, archbishop of York and chancellor of England.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> The earliest reference for a pasty in Devon or Cornwall can be found in Plymouth city records of 1509/10, which describe "Itm for the cooke is labor to make the pasties 10d".<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> They were even eaten by royalty, as a letter from a baker to Henry VIII's third wife Jane Seymour confirms: "...hope this pasty reaches you in better condition than the last one ..."<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> In his diaries written in the mid-17th century, Samuel Pepys makes several references to his consumption of pasties, for instance "dined at Sir W. Pen's ... on a damned venison pasty, that stunk like a devil",<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> but after this period the use of the word outside Devon and Cornwall declined.<ref name="mason & brown">Template:Cite book</ref>

In contrast to its earlier place amongst the wealthy, during the 17th and 18th centuries, the pasty became popular with working people in Cornwall and west Devon, where tin miners and others adopted it because of its unique shape, forming a complete meal that could be carried easily and eaten without cutlery.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref><ref name="grigson" /> In a mine, the pasty's dense, folded pastry could stay warm for several hours, and if it did get cold, it could easily be warmed on a shovel over a candle.<ref name="context" />

Side-crimped pasties gave rise to the suggestion that the miner might have eaten the pasty holding the thick edge of pastry, which was later discarded, thereby ensuring that dirty fingers (possibly including traces of arsenic) did not touch the food or mouth.<ref name="DEFRA" /> However, many old photographs show that pasties were wrapped in bags made of paper or muslin and were eaten from end to end;<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> according to the earliest Cornish recipe book, published in 1929, this is "the true Cornish way" to eat a pasty.<ref name=CRAM>Template:Cite book</ref> Another theory suggests that pasties were marked at one end with an initial and then eaten from the other end so that if not finished in one sitting, they could easily be reclaimed by their owners.<ref name="context">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Cornish pasty

File:Cornish pasties at Cornish bakehouse.jpg

Cornish pasties at Cornish bakehouse in Bath

The pasty is regarded as the national dish of Cornwall,<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web

}}</ref><ref>The West Briton, Commercial pasty companies are failing our Cornish national dish, 23 September 2010</ref> and an early reference is from a New Zealand newspaper:

In Cornwall, there is a common practice among those cottagers who bake at home of making little pasties for the dinners of those who may be working at a distance in the fields. They will last the whole week, and are made of any kind of meat or fruit, rolled up in a paste made of flour and suet or lard. A couple of ounces of bacon and half a-pound of raw potatoes, both thinly sliced and slightly seasoned, will be found sufficient for the meal. The pasty can be carried in the man's pocket.{{#if:The Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle|{{#if:|}}

— {{#if:|, in }}Template:Comma separated entries

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{{#invoke:Check for unknown parameters|check|unknown=Template:Main other|preview=Page using Template:Blockquote with unknown parameter "_VALUE_"|ignoreblank=y| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | author | by | char | character | cite | class | content | multiline | personquoted | publication | quote | quotesource | quotetext | sign | source | style | text | title | ts }} The term "Cornish pasty" has been in use since at least the early 1860s:

The Cornish pasty, which so admirably comprises a dinner in itself—meat, potatoes, and other good things well cooked and made up into so portable a form—was a subject of much admiration, and reminded me of the old coaching days, when I secured a pasty at Bodmin in order to take it home to my cook, that it might be dissected and serve as a pattern for Cornish pasties in quite another part of the country.{{#if:Henry H. Vivianaccount in the journal of the Cambrian Archaeological Association, 1862<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref>|{{#if:|}}

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Cornish pasties are very popular with the working classes in this neighbourhood, and have lately been successfully introduced into some parts of Devonshire. They are made of small pieces of beef, and thin slices of potato, highly peppered, and enclosed in wrappers of paste.{{#if:James Orchard HalliwellRambles in Western Cornwall by the Footsteps of the Giants, 1861<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>|{{#if:|}}

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By the late 19th century, national cookery schools began to teach their pupils to create their own version of a "Cornish pasty" that was smaller and was to be eaten as an "economical savoury nibble for polite middle-class Victorians".<ref>"Food historian says the Cornish did not invent the 'Cornish pasty'", The Cornishman, 29 August 2015 Template:Webarchive</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

On 20 July 2011, after a nine-year campaign by the Cornish Pasty Association (CPA) – the trade organisation of about 50 pasty makers based in Cornwall – the name "Cornish pasty" was awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status by the European Commission.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> According to the PGI status, a Cornish pasty should be shaped like a 'D' and crimped on one side, not on the top. Its ingredients should include beef, swede (called turnip in Cornwall),<ref name="turnip">Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref> potato and onion, with a light seasoning of salt and pepper, keeping a chunky texture. The pastry should be golden and retain its shape when cooked and cooled.<ref name="DEFRA">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The PGI status also means that Cornish pasties must be prepared in Cornwall. They do not have to be baked in Cornwall,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }} "Assembly of the pasties in preparation for baking must take place in the designated area. The actual baking does not have to be done within the geographical area, it is possible to send the finished but unbaked and/or frozen pasties to bakers or other outlets outside the area where they can be baked in ovens for consumption."</ref> nor do the ingredients have to come from the county, though the CPA notes that there are strong links between pasty production and local suppliers of the ingredients.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Packaging for pasties that conform to the requirements includes an authentication stamp, the use of which is policed by the CPA.<ref name="DEFRA" />

Producers outside Cornwall objected to the PGI award, with one saying "[EU bureaucrats could] go to hell",<ref name=wallop>Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref> and another that it was "protectionism for some big pasty companies to churn out a pastiche of the real iconic product". Major UK supermarkets Asda and Morrisons both stated they would be affected by the change,<ref name=wallop/> as did nationwide bakery chain Greggs, though Greggs was one of seven companies allowed to continue to use the name "Cornish pasty" during a three-year transitional period.<ref name=L193>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Members of the CPA made about 87 million pasties in 2008, amounting to sales of £60 million (about 6% of the food economy of Cornwall).<ref>Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref> In 2011, over 1,800 permanent staff were employed by members of the CPA and some 13,000 other jobs benefited from the trade.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Surveys by the South West tourism board have shown that one of the top three reasons people visit Cornwall is the food and that the Cornish pasty is the food most associated with Cornwall.<ref name="DEFRA"/>

Definition and ingredients

File:Cornish pasty - cut.jpeg

A traditional Cornish pasty filled with steak and vegetables

The recipe for a Cornish pasty, as defined by its protected status, includes diced or minced beef, onion, potato and swede in rough chunks along with some "light peppery" seasoning.<ref name="DEFRA"/> The cut of beef used is generally skirt steak.<ref name=ultimate>Template:Cite news</ref> Swede is sometimes called turnip in Cornwall,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> but the recipe requires use of actual swede, not turnip.<ref name="turnip"/> Pasty ingredients are usually seasoned with salt and pepper, depending on individual taste.<ref name="nyt">Template:Cite news</ref>

The type of pastry used is not defined, as long as it is golden in colour and will not crack during the cooking or cooling,<ref name="DEFRA"/> although modern pasties almost always use a shortcrust pastry.<ref name="nyt" /> There is a humorous belief that the pastry on a good pasty should be strong enough to withstand a drop down a mine shaft,<ref name="hall">Template:Cite book</ref> and indeed the barley flour that was usually used does make hard dense pastry.<ref name="Pascoe">Template:Cite book</ref>

Variations

Although the officially protected Cornish pasty has a specific ingredients list, old Cornish cookery books show that pasties were generally made from whatever food was available.<ref name=Gourmet>Template:Cite book</ref> Indeed, the earliest recorded pasty recipes include venison, not beef.<ref name="WhoInvented"/> "Pasty" has always been a generic name for the shape and can contain a variety of fillings, including stilton, vegetarian and even chicken tikka.<ref name="Gourmet" /> Pork and apple pasties are readily available in shops throughout Cornwall and Devon, with the ingredients including an apple flavoured sauce, mixed together throughout the pasty, as well as sweet pasties with ingredients such as apple and fig or chocolate and banana, which are common in some areas of Cornwall.<ref name="grigson">Grigson, Jane (1993) English Food. Penguin Books, p. 226</ref>

A part-savoury, part-sweet pasty (similar to the Bedfordshire clanger) was eaten by miners in the 19th century, in the copper mines on Parys Mountain, Anglesey. The technician who did the research and discovered the recipe claimed that the recipe was probably taken to Anglesey by Cornish miners travelling to the area looking for work.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> No two-course pasties are commercially produced in Cornwall today,<ref name="merrick">Template:Cite book</ref> but are usually the product of amateur cooks.<ref name="nyt" /> They are, however, commercially available in the British supermarket chain Morrisons (under the name 'Tin Miner Pasty').<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Other traditional fillings have included a wide variety of locally available meats including pork, bacon, egg, rabbit, chicken, mackerel and sweet fillings such as dates, apples, jam and sweetened rice - leading to the oft-quoted joke that 'the Devil hisself was afeared to cross over into Cornwall for fear that ee'd end up in a pasty'.<ref name="ReferenceA">Cornish Recipes, Ancient & Modern, Edith Martin, Truro, 1929</ref>

A pasty is known as a "tiddy oggy" when steak is replaced with an extra potato, "tiddy" meaning potato and "oggy" meaning pasty and was eaten when times were hard and expensive meat could not be afforded.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Another traditional meatless recipe is 'herby pie' with parsley, freshly gathered wild green herbs and chives, ramsons or leeks and a spoonful of clotted cream.<ref name="ReferenceA"/>

Shape

Whilst the PGI rules state that a Cornish pasty must be a "D" shape, with crimping along the curve (i.e., side-crimped),<ref name=wallop /> crimping is variable within both Devon and Cornwall, with some advocating a side crimp while others maintain that a top crimp is more authentic.<ref name="grigson" /><ref name="merrick"/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Some sources state that the difference between a Devon and a Cornish pasty is that a Devon pasty has a top-crimp and is oval in shape, whereas the Cornish pasty is semicircular and side-crimped along the curve.<ref name="nyt" /> However, pasties with a top crimp have been made in Cornwall for generations,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> yet those Cornish bakers who favour this method now find that they cannot legally call their pasties "Cornish".<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Paul Hollywood, writing for BBC Food, stated that a traditional Cornish pasty should have about 20 crimps.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

In other regions

File:Grass Valley Cousin Jacks Pasties.jpg

A "Cousin Jack's" pasty shop in Grass Valley, California

Migrating Devonian and Cornish miners and their families (colloquially known as Cousin Jacks and Cousin Jennies) helped to spread pasties into the rest of the world during the 19th century. As tin mining in Devon and Cornwall began to decline, miners took their expertise and traditions to new mining regions around the world.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> As a result, pasties can be found in many regions, including:

• Many parts of Australia, including the Yorke Peninsula, which has been the site of an annual Cornish festival (claimed to be the world's largest) since 1973. A clarification of the Protected Geographical Status ruling has confirmed that pasties made in Australia are still allowed to be called "Cornish Pasties".<ref>Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref>
• A Lancashire pasty is a traditional variant originating in Lancashire, especially West Lancashire that is similar to its Cornish counterpart but uses carrot instead of swede.
• Pasties can be found in California in many historical Gold Rush towns, such as Grass Valley and Nevada City.
• The pasty has become a cultural symbol of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.<ref name="HuffPost">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Pasty shops are a significant tourist attraction in the region. Additionally, the village of Calumet is home to an annual Pasty Festival.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> Many ethnic groups adopted the pasty for use in the Copper Country copper mines; the Finnish immigrants to the region mistook it for the traditional piirakka and {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} pastries.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="tech">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The pasty has become strongly associated with all cultures in this area and in the Iron Range in northern Minnesota.<ref name="american">Template:Cite book</ref>

• Mineral Point, Wisconsin, was the site of the first mineral rush in the United States during the 1830s. After lead was discovered in Mineral Point, many of the early miners migrated from Cornwall to this southwestern Wisconsin area. Pasties can be found in Wisconsin's largest cities, Madison<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> and Milwaukee, as well as in the far northern region along the border with Michigan's Upper Peninsula.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• A similar local history about the arrival of the pasty in the area with an influx of Welsh and Cornish miners to the area's copper mines, and its preservation as a local delicacy, is found in Butte, Montana, "The Richest Hill on Earth".<ref name=montana>Template:Cite book</ref> Miners referred to the pasty as a "letter from 'ome."<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• The anthracite coal region of Northeastern Pennsylvania, including Wilkes-Barre, Scranton, and Hazleton, had an influx of miners to the area in the 19th century and brought the pasty with them. In 1981, a Pennsylvania entrepreneur started marketing pasties under the brand name Mr. Pastie.
• File:Mexico City pastie.JPG

  A Mexican "paste"
  The Mexican state of Hidalgo and the twin silver mining cities of Pachuca and Real del Monte (Mineral del Monte) have notable Cornish influences from the Cornish miners who settled there, with pasties being considered typical local cuisine.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> In Mexican Spanish, they are referred to as pastes.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> A pasty museum is located in Real del Monte.<ref>i (newspaper) 19 October 2015; Cornwall's pride wrapped up in pastry; Adam Lusher (pp. 26-27)</ref> The annual International Pasty Festival is held in Real del Monte each October.<ref>Template:Citation</ref>

• They are also popular in South Africa, New Zealand,<ref name="newzealand">Template:Citation</ref> and Ulster.
• Pasties were modified with different spices and fillings in Jamaica, giving rise to the Jamaican patty.

Culture

Literature

Pasties have been mentioned in multiple literary works since the 12th century Arthurian romance Erec and Enide, written by Chrétien de Troyes, in which they are eaten by characters from the area now known as Cornwall.<ref name="context" /><ref name="WhoInvented">Template:Cite news</ref> There is a mention in Havelok the Dane, another romance written at the end of the thirteenth century;<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }} (line 645)</ref> in the 14th century Robin Hood tales;<ref name="context" /> and in two plays by William Shakespeare.<ref>In The Merry Wives of Windsor Act 1 Scene 1, Page says Wife, bid these gentlemen welcome. Come, we have a hot venison pasty to dinner: come gentlemen, I hope we shall drink down all unkindness.</ref><ref>In All's Well That Ends Well, Act IV Scene III, Parrolles states: I will confess to what I know without constraint: if ye pinch me like a pasty, I can say no more.</ref>

Superstitions, rhymes and chants

In the tin mines of Devon and Cornwall, pasties were associated with "knockers", spirits said to create a knocking sound that was either supposed to indicate the location of rich veins of ore,<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> or to warn of an impending tunnel collapse. To encourage the good will of the knockers, miners would leave a small part of the pasty within the mine for them to eat.<ref name="Trust">Template:Cite book</ref> Sailors and fisherman would likewise discard a crust to appease the spirits of dead mariners, though fishermen believed that it was bad luck to take a pasty aboard ship.<ref name="Trust" />

A Cornish proverb, recounted in 1861, emphasised the great variety of ingredients that were used in pasties by saying that the devil would not come into Cornwall for fear of ending up as a filling in one.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> A Cornish schoolboy playground-rhyme current in the 1940s concerning the pasty went:

Template:ErrorTemplate:Main other{{#if:|{{#if:|}}

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{{#invoke:Check for unknown parameters|check|unknown=Template:Main other|preview=Page using Template:Blockquote with unknown parameter "_VALUE_"|ignoreblank=y| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | author | by | char | character | cite | class | content | multiline | personquoted | publication | quote | quotesource | quotetext | sign | source | style | text | title | ts }} In 1959 the English singer-songwriter Cyril Tawney wrote a nostalgic song called "The Oggie Man". The song tells of the pasty-seller with his characteristic vendor's call who was always outside Plymouth's Devonport Naval Dockyard gates late at night when the sailors were returning, and his replacement by hot dog sellers after World War II.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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The word "oggy" in the internationally popular chant "Oggy Oggy Oggy, Oi Oi Oi" is thought to stem from Cornish dialect "hoggan", deriving from "hogen" the Cornish word for pasty. When the pasties were ready for eating, the bal maidens at the mines would supposedly shout down the shaft "Oggy Oggy Oggy" and the miners would reply "Oi Oi Oi".<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>{{ safesubst:#invoke:Unsubst||date=__DATE__ |$B= Template:Fix }}

Giant pasties

As the 'national dish' of Cornwall, several oversized versions of the pasty have been created in the county. For example, a giant pasty is paraded from Polruan to Fowey through the streets during regatta week.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Similarly, a giant pasty is paraded around the ground of the Cornish Pirates rugby team on St Piran's Day before it is passed over the goal posts.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

Gallery

• Pasties
• Pasty Ingredients.JPG

  An uncooked pasty prior to crimping

• Pasty-with-afters-2.jpg

  A two-course pasty

• Cornish Pasties in the Oven.jpg

  Pasties in the oven

• Giant Pasty.JPG

  Cornish Pirates players display a giant pasty

• Cornish pasties in a shop window, Market Jew Street, Penzance - geograph.org.uk - 863195.jpg

  Pasty varieties (Penzance)

• Australian pasties.jpg

  Pasty varieties (Australia)

See also

• Bridie – Scottish equivalent
• Calzone – an Italian turnover or folded pizza
• Cholera (food) - a Swiss savoury pastry similar to a cheese pasty
• Chiburekki – National dish of Crimean Tatars, also popular in the Balkans, Caucasus, and Central Asia
• Coventry Godcakes – originated in the city of Coventry, England
• Empanada – Spanish equivalent
• Fleischkuekle – German-Russian meat pie
• International Pasty Festival – Held annually in Mexico
• Kibinai - similar pasties (though smaller) in Lithuania
• Knish – an Eastern European and Ashkenazi Jewish pastry
• Meat pie (Australia and New Zealand)
• Natchitoches meat pie - Louisiana meat pie
• Panzerotti – smaller version of a calzone
• Pirozhki – Russian equivalent
• Samsa - Central Asian equivalent
• Samosa – similar dish from South Asia
• Kue pastel - Indonesia
• World Pasty Championships – held annually in Cornwall

Further reading

• Pasties by Lindsey Bareham, Mabecron Books, Plymouth, UK, 2008 Template:ISBN
• English Food by Jane Grigson (revised by Sophie Grigson), Penguin Books, London, 1993, Template:ISBN
• The Cornish Pasty by Stephen Hall, Agre Books, Nettlecombe, UK, 2001 Template:ISBN
• The Pasty Book by Hettie Merrick, Tor Mark, Redruth, UK, 1995 Template:ISBN

External links

• The Cornish Pasty Association – the trade association of the Cornish pasty industry
• The Compleat Pastypaedia – a web pasty resource