Twelve Bens

Template:Short description Template:Good article Template:Use dmy dates Template:Use Hiberno-English Template:Infobox mountain The Twelve Bens or Twelve Pins, also called the Benna Beola<ref>"The Twelve Pins or Benna Beola" (English), Beanna Beola (Irish). Placenames Database of Ireland.</ref> (Template:Irish place name),Template:Efn is a mountain range of mostly sharp-peaked quartzite summits and ridges in the Connemara National ParkTemplate:Efn in County Galway, in the west of Ireland.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The widest definition of the range includes the Garraun Complex to the north as well as several isolated peaks to the west, and is designated a Template:Convert Special Area of Conservation.<ref name="gsi"/>

The highest point is Benbaun at Template:Convert.<ref name="Dillon30"/> The range is a popular location for hill-walking activities with the 16–kilometre 8–9 hour Glencoaghan Horseshoe, considered one of the best ridge-walks in Ireland.<ref name="Helen34"/><ref name="Dillon30"/> Topographically, the range is partnered with the Maumturks range to the east of the Inagh valley (a Western Way route);<ref name="Dillon30"/> and both share a common geology being largely composed of metamorphic marine rocks, being predominantly resistant quartzite but with deposits of schists in the valleys (known as Connemara Dalradian rocks).<ref name="ronan"/>

Naming

"Ben" is an anglicized form of the Irish word binn, meaning "peak".<ref name="peak"/> According to Irish academic Paul Tempan,Template:Efn "An odd thing about the Twelve Bens of Connemara is that nobody seems to know exactly which are the twelve peaks in question", and noting that there are almost 20 peaks with "Ben" or "Binn" in their name.<ref name="peak"/><ref name=JOUR>Template:Cite journal</ref> Tempan notes that term "twelve peaks" can be at least dated to the Irish historian Ruaidhrí Ó Flaithbheartaigh, whose writings in 1684 said: "On the north-west of Ballynahinsy [Ballynahinch], are the twelve high mountaines of Bennabeola, called by marriners the twelve stakes [stacks], being the first land they discover as they come from the maine [sea]", but he did not list them.<ref name="peak"/>

The most common list of the twelve peaks in question are the peaks with an elevation above 500 metres in the core range, and that are not considered subsidiary peaks (e.g. they have a non-trivial prominence, and have been traditionally noted as peaks on historic maps, per Template:Slink below).<ref name="Dillon30"/>

Tempan notes the issue of "twelve" does not arise in the Irish language name as they are simply labelled Na Beanna Beola, which translates as "the peaks of Beola".<ref name="peak"/> Beola was a leader of the Fir Bolg, and a giant; his name appears in that of the Connemara village Toombeola.<ref name="peak"/>

Geography

File:Glencoaghan Horseshoe, Twelve Bens, Ireland.jpg

Glencoaghan River from Bencullaghduff

The Twelve Bens range is a core massif of 22 peaks above Template:Convert in elevation, centred around the highest peak in the range, Benbaun Template:Convert. To the north of this core massif lies the separate subsidiary massif of the Garraun Complex with 9 peaks around Garraun Template:Convert. To the west of the core massif lies 7 other isolated or subsidiary "outlier" peaks, thus giving a total of 38 Bens with an elevation above 100 metres.<ref name="Dillon30"/><ref name="Helen34"/>

While the Bens are not as high as those of the ranges in County Kerry (e.g. MacGillycuddy's Reeks and the Mountains of the Dingle Peninsula), their rocky peaks and ridges contrast with the surrounding sea-level landscape (unlike Kerry, there are no mountain-passes in Connemara), and give the range an imposing feel.<ref name="Dillon30"/><ref name="Helen34"/>

The range is bounded by the Inagh Valley and the R344 road to the east, while the N59 road (or the "Clifden Road"), circles and bounds the core massif (and most of the outliers), from the southerly, westerly and northerly directions. The Garraun Complex lies to the north of the N59 road at Kylemore Lough.<ref name="Dillon30"/><ref name="Helen34"/>

Core massif

The 22 peaks in the core massif of the Twelve Bens range naturally split into three sections:<ref name="joss">Template:Cite book</ref>

The core massif is also known for its deep glaciated U-shaped valleys, around which groups of Bens lie in a "horseshoe formation":<ref name="joss"/>

Geology

File:Twelve pins.JPG

Quartzite peaks and rocky ridges of Bencorr and its subsidiary peaks and spurs

The core massif of the Twelve Bens range is largely composed of metamorphic marine rocks, being predominantly resistant quartzite but with deposits of schists in the valleys (known as "Connemara Dalradian" rocks).<ref name="ronan">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="gsi">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="cnp">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

These rocks derive from sediments that were deposited in a warm shelf sea some 700 to 550 million years ago (e.g. Precambrian-Cambrian).<ref name="cnp"/> Movements in the Earth's crust, and the closure of the Iapetus Ocean, transformed these sediments into crystalline schists that lie underneath the base of the mountain range, which local erosion and uplift then brought to the surface.<ref name="ronan"/><ref name="cnp"/> The summits of the core massif (and some outliers) are made of weather-resistant quartzite, while the sides of the peaks are composed of schists and grey marbles.<ref name="cnp"/>

In contrast, the mountains to the north of the core Twelve Bens massif, the Garraun Complex, have a different type of geology, that is composed of gneiss and different forms of sandstones and mudstones.<ref name="gsi"/>

Scattered throughout the range are parts of gabbro (Doughruagh and Currywongaun), mica schist (Muckanaght), and outcrops of marble (south of Kylemore Lough).<ref name="gsi"/>

The final Ice Age, circa 10,000 years ago, also sculpted the landscape leaving behind deposits of sand and gravel; there are widespread boulder-clay and erratic boulders across the range.<ref name="cnp"/>

Special Area of Conservation (SAC)

File:Turbary cutting (for removing peat) - geograph.org.uk - 65980.jpg

The range includes extensive bog habitats

The entire Twelve Bens range (including the Garraun Complex) is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) (Site Code:002031), as selected for a range of habitats and species listed under the Annex I / II of the E.U. Habitats Directive.<ref name="gsi"/> The items of note on the SAC habitats list includes: Oligotrophic Waters, Alpine Heaths, Active Blanket Bogs, remnants of Oak Woodland, Rhynchosporion Vegetation, and Siliceous Scree and Rocky Slopes; while the species list includes: Freshwater Pearl Mussel, Atlantic Salmon, Otter, and Slender Naiad.<ref name="gsi"/> In addition, the 16,163-hectare site includes a some of the rarer Red Data Book species of plant.<ref name="gsi"/> The SAC directive on the range describes it as "One of the largest and most varied sites of conservation interest in Ireland".<ref name="gsi"/>

Climbing

The range is popular with hill walkers, fell runners, and rock climbers,<ref name="climb"/>

Hill walkingTemplate:Anchor

File:Connemara12Bens.jpg

View of Polladirk Valley from Diamond Hill.

The Irish Times outdoors correspondent, John G. Dwyer, said of the Twelve Bens, "These are true kickass mountains, with criminally stunning views [..]".<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

The Template:Convert 8–9 hour Glencoaghan HorseshoeTemplate:Efn is noted as providing some of the "most exhilarating mountaineering in Ireland",<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and is called "a true classic" by guidebook authors.<ref name="Helen34">Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="Dillon30">Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="phelan12">Template:Cite book</ref> Other similar distanced "horseshoe" loop walks are the 19–kilometre 10–12 hour Owenglin Horseshoe,<ref name="Dillon24">Template:Cite book</ref> the 15–kilometre 8–9 hour Gleninagh Horseshoe,<ref name="Dillon28">Template:Cite book</ref> and the 14–kilometre 6–7 hour Glencorbet Horseshoe.<ref name="Helen33">Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="phelan">Template:Cite book</ref>

An even more serious undertaking is the Template:Convert "Twelve Bens Challenge", climbing all 12 Bens in a single 24-hour day.Template:Efn

Rock climbing

File:Carrot Ridge, Twelve Pins.jpg

Carrot Ridge in the Gleninagh Valley

The Twelve Bens have a number of rock climbing locations, the most notable of which is in the Gleann Eighneach valley at the eastern spur of Benncorr (from Binn an tSaighdiúra to Bencorrbeg; also called "Carrot Ridge"). The climbs vary from Diff (D) to Very Severe (VS) and range from 150 metres to 320 metres in length, with notable routes being Carrot Ridge (275m D), and Seventh Heaven (330m HS).<ref name="climb">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

In addition, the large easterly corrie between the summits of Derryclare and the summit of Bencorr, known as Template:Langx (meaning "wood of the big corrie"), also contains several large 200 metre multi-pitch graded rock climbs at grades of Diff (D) to Very Diff (VD), the most notable of which is "The Knave" (VD, 225 m); and the smaller corrie between the summit of Bencorr and the summit of Bencorr North Top, known as Log an Choire Bhig, ("wood of the small corrie"), has a number of shorter but harder climbs including "Corner Climb" (VS 4c, 30 m).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

List of peaks

{{#invoke:Labelled list hatnote|labelledList|Main article|Main articles|Main page|Main pages}} The following is a download from the MountainViews Online Database, who list 38 identifiable peaks in the wider Twelve Bens range (i.e. core massif, Garraun complex, and various outliers to the west), with an elevation, or height, above Template:Convert

The list below highlights the 12 Bens most associated with being the Twelve Bens from Ó Flaithbheartaigh's original record.<ref name="Dillon30"/> Of the standalone "Bens" (e.g. not listed as a "Top" of a parent Ben) that are over Template:Convert in height but are not listed in this 12, Binn an tSaighdiúra has a prominence of only 8 metres and would not qualify as an independent mountain on any recognised scale (the lowest prominence is 15 metres for the Vandeleur-Lynam classification); Maumonght does have a prominence exceeding 50 metres, and even has a subsidiary peak (Maumonght SW Top), however, Maumonght rarely appears on historic maps of the range and is not considered a "Ben";<ref name="peak"/> Bencorrbeag also has a non-trivial prominence of 42 metres, however, it is considered unlikely given its positioning that it could have been distinguished by mariners from the sea (Ó Flaithbheartaigh's original premise).<ref name="Dillon30"/><ref name="peak"/>

Peaks of the Twelve Bens Mountain range (MountainViews Online Database, July 2019)

Height Rank	Prom. Rank	Name	Irish Name (if different)	Translation	Area	Height (m)	Prom. (m)	Height (ft)	Prom. (ft)	Topo Map	OSI Grid Reference
1	1	Benbaun	Binn Bhán	White PeakTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	729	684	2,392	2,244	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
2	4	Bencorr	Binn ChorrTemplate:Efn	Pointed Peak	12 Bens - Core	711	306	2,333	1,004	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
3	10	Bencollaghduff	Binn Dubh	Black Peak/Peak of Black HagsTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	696	191	2,283	627	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
4	11	Benbreen	Binn Braoin	Braon's PeakTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	691	186	2,267	610	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
5	38	Bencorr North Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	690	5	2,264	16	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
6	31	Benbreen Central Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	680	25	2,231	82	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
7	16	Derryclare	Binn Doire ChláirTemplate:Efn	Peak of Derryclare	12 Bens - Core	677	129	2,221	423	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
8	35	Benbreen North Top	—	—	12 Bens - Core	674	16	2,211	52	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
9	9	BengowerTemplate:Efn	Binn Gabhar	Goats' Peak	12 Bens - Core	664	196	2,178	643	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
10	12	Muckanaght	Muiceanach	Hill like a Pig	12 Bens - Core	654	179	2,146	587	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
11	37	Binn an tSaighdiúra	—	Peak of the SoldierTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	653	8	2,142	26	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
12	24	Benfree	Binn Fraoigh	Peak of the HeatherTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	638	48	2,093	157	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
13	14	Bencullagh	An Chailleach	[Peak of] The Hag/WitchTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	632	154	2,073	505	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
14	23	MaumonghtTemplate:Efn	Mám Uchta	Pass of the Breast/Ridge	12 Bens - Core	602	54	1,975	177	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
15	2	GarraunTemplate:Efn	Maolchnoc	Bald Hill	Garraun Complex	598	553	1,962	1,814	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
16	36	Benchoona East Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	585	15	1,919	49	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
17	7	Benbrack	Binn Bhreac	Speckled PeakTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	582	264	1,909	866	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
18	28	Benchoona	Binn Chuanna	Peak of CuannaTemplate:Efn	Garraun Complex	581	36	1,906	118	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
19	21	Benlettery	Binn Leitrí	Peak of the Wet HillsidesTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Core	577	62	1,893	203	44	Template:Gbm4ibx
20	26	Bencorrbeg	Binn an Choire Bhig	Peak of the Little Corrie	12 Bens - Core	577	42	1,893	138	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
21	29	Garraun South Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	556	31	1,824	102	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
22	32	Garraun South-West Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	549	21	1,801	69	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
23	8	Doughruagh	Dúchruach	Black Stack	Garraun Complex	526	211	1,726	692	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
24	33	Doughruagh South Top	—	—	Garraun Complex	525	17	1,722	56	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
25	25	Benglenisky	Binn Ghleann Uisce	Peak of the Glen of Water	12 Bens - Core	516	48	1,693	157	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
26	27	Benbaun (477 m)	Binn Bhán/Maolán	White Peak	12 Bens - Core	477	42	1,565	138	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
27	30	Maumonght SW Top	Binn Bhreac	Speckled Peak	12 Bens - Core	454	29	1,490	95	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
28	5	Diamond Hill	Binn Ghuaire	Guaire's PeakTemplate:Efn	12 Bens - Outlier	442	277	1,450	909	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
29	22	Knockbrack	Cnoc Breac	Speckled Hill	12 Bens - Core	442	55	1,450	180	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
30	34	Knockpasheemore	Binn Charrach	Rocky Peak	12 Bens - Core	412	17	1,352	56	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
31	3	Tully Mountain	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	356	331	1,168	1,086	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
32	6	LetterettrinTemplate:Efn	Binn Mhór	Big Peak	Garraun Complex	333	268	1,093	879	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
33	15	Cregg	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	297	142	974	466	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
34	20	Currywongaun	Corr Uí Mhongáin	Uí Mhongáin's Hill	Garraun Complex	273	109	896	358	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
35	18	Townaloughra East Top	—	—	12 Bens - Outlier	216	112	709	367	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
36	19	Gortrumnagh	(unknown)	(unknown)	12 Bens - Outlier	174	110	571	361	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
37	13	Maumfin	Mám Fionn	White Pass	12 Bens - Outlier	172	157	564	515	37	Template:Gbm4ibx
38	17	Knockaunbaun	An Cnocán Bán	White Hillock	12 Bens - Outlier	146	128	479	420	37	Template:Gbm4ibx

See also

• Mweelrea, major range in Killary Harbour
• Maumturks, major range in Connemara
• List of Irish counties by highest point
• Lists of mountains in Ireland
• Lists of mountains and hills in the British Isles

References

Further reading

File:Twelve Bins (2409309593).jpg

Range from north-west at Clifden.

• Template:Cite book

• Template:Cite book

• Template:Cite book

• Template:Cite book
• Template:Cite book
• Template:Cite book

External links

• Mountainview: The Twelve Bens Range
• The Twelve Bens Challenge: Routecard (2015)
• Irish Rock Climbing Database: Gleann Eighneach
• Irish Rock Climbing Database: Inagh Valley (Benorr & Derryclare)