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Cerro Torre
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==First ascent== [[Cesare Maestri]] claimed in 1959 that he and Toni Egger had reached the summit and that Egger had been swept to his death by an avalanche while they were descending. Maestri declared that Egger had the camera with the pictures of the summit, but this camera was never found. Inconsistencies in Maestri's account, and the lack of bolts, pitons or fixed ropes on the route, have led most mountaineers to doubt Maestri's claim.<ref name="aaj2004"/><ref name=":0">{{Cite web |date=2019-02-22 |title=Jim Bridwell's Last Interview |url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/jim-bridwells-last-interview/ |access-date=2022-03-10 |website=Climbing}}</ref> In 2005, Ermanno Salvaterra, [[Rolando Garibotti]] and Alessandro Beltrami, after many attempts by world-class alpinists, put up a confirmed route on the face that Maestri claimed to have climbed.<ref name="alpinist_16">{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP16/winds-salvaterra|title=The Ark of the Winds - Alpinist.com|website=www.Alpinist.com|access-date=16 October 2017|archive-date=8 June 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150608052311/http://alpinist.com/doc/ALP16/winds-salvaterra|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="youtube_El_arca_de_los_vientos">{{cite AV media |people= Cesare Maestri|date=25 September 2007 |title=CERRO TORRE - EL ARCA DE LOS VIENTOS-1 |language=it |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGlnBaqC6kw | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140609081801/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGlnBaqC6kw| archive-date=2014-06-09 | url-status=dead|access-date=5 April 2017 |publisher=YouTube}}</ref> They did not find any evidence of previous climbing on the route described by Maestri and found the route significantly different from Maestri's description. Maestri went back to Cerro Torre in 1970 with Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi, trying a new route on the southeast face. With the aid of a gas-powered compressor drill, Maestri equipped {{convert|350|m}} of rock with bolts and got to the end of the rocky part of the mountain, just below the ice mushroom.<ref name=kearney>{{cite book|first=Alan|last=Kearney|title=Mountaineering in Patagonia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=05zs0Cg7VacC|access-date=31 August 2011|year=1993|location=Seattle, Wash|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-0-938567-30-1}}{{Dead link|date=November 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> Maestri claimed that "the mushroom is not part of the mountain" and did not continue to the summit. The compressor was left, tied to the last bolts, {{cvt|100|m|||}} below the top. Maestri was heavily criticized for the "unfair" methods he used to climb the mountain.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Wilson |first1=Ken |title=Interview with Cesare Maestri |journal=Mountain Magazine |date=1972 |issue=September}}</ref> The route Maestri followed is now known as the ''Compressor route'' and was climbed to the summit in 1979 by [[Jim Bridwell]] and Steve Brewer.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=apoc>[http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/cerrotorre224/index2.html climbing.com: ''Apocalyptic warrior''] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100601035328/http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/cerrotorre224/index2.html |date=June 1, 2010 }}</ref> Most parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult [[Rime ice|ice-rime]] mushroom.{{Citation needed|date=October 2017}} The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974 by the "Ragni di Lecco" climbers [[Daniele Chiappa]], Mario Conti, [[Casimiro Ferrari]], and Pino Negri.<ref name="alpinist_16" /> The controversies regarding Maestri's claims are the focus of the 2014 book on Cerro Torre, ''The Tower'', by Kelly Cordes.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Cordes |first1=Kelly |title=The Tower: a chronicle of climbing and controversy on Cerro Torre |date=2014 |publisher=Patagonia |location=Ventura, California |isbn=978-1-938340-33-8 |edition=1st}}</ref>
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