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==History== ===Coco Chanel era === ;Establishment and recognition (1909–1920s) [[File:Coco Chanel, 1920.jpg|thumb|200px|Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1920]] The House of Chanel originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened a [[millinery]] shop at 160 [[Boulevard Malesherbes]], the ground floor of the Parisian flat of the [[socialite]] and textile businessman [[Étienne Balsan]], of whom she was the mistress.<ref name="directory"/> Because the Balsan flat also was a [[Salon (gathering)|salon]] for the French hunting and sporting élite, Chanel had the opportunity to meet their ''[[Demimonde|demi-mondaine]]'' mistresses who, as such, were women of fashion, upon whom the rich men displayed their wealth – as ornate clothes, jewellery, and hats. [[File:Chanel hat from Les Modes 1912.jpg|thumb|left|160px|The actress Gabrielle Dorziat wearing a Chanel plumed hat (1912)]] Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made; she thus earned a living independent of Balsan. In the course of those salons, Coco Chanel befriended [[Boy Capel|Arthur "Boy" Capel]], an English socialite and [[Polo|polo player]] friend of Étienne Balsan; per the upper class social custom, Chanel also became mistress to Boy Capel. In 1910, Boy Capel financed her first independent millinery shop, ''Chanel Modes'', at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris. Because that locale already housed a dress shop, the business-lease limited Chanel to selling only millinery products, not ''[[haute couture|couture]]''. Two years later 1913, the [[Deauville]] and [[Biarritz]] ''couture'' shops of Coco Chanel offered for sale ''[[Ready-to-wear|prêt-à-porter]]'' sports clothes for women, the practical designs of which allowed the wearer to play sports.<ref name="directory"/><ref name="ContemporaryFashion">{{cite book|author=Martin, Richard|title=Contemporary fashion|publisher=St. James Press|location=London|year=1995|pages=750|isbn=1-55862-173-3}}</ref> The [[World War I|First World War]] (1914–1918), affected European fashion through scarcity of materials, and the mobilisation of women. By that time, Chanel had opened a large dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon, near the [[Hôtel Ritz Paris|Hôtel Ritz]], in Paris. Among the clothes for sale were [[flannel]] [[blazer]]s, straight-line skirts of [[linen]], [[sailor suit|sailor blouses]], long [[sweater]]s made of [[Jersey (fabric)|jersey]] fabric, and skirt-and-jacket suits. Coco Chanel used jersey cloth because of its physical properties as a garment, such as its drape – how it falls upon and falls from the body of the woman – and how well it adapted to a simple garment-design. Sartorially, some of Chanel's designs derived from the military uniforms made prevalent by the War; and, by 1915, the designs and the clothes produced by the House of Chanel were known throughout France.<ref name="directory"/> In 1915, Chanel opened her very first Couture House in Biarritz, France. She had 300 employees and even designed her first line of Haute Couture.<ref>{{Cite web |title=1910s |url=https://www.chanel.com/us/about-chanel/the-history/1910/ |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=CHANEL |language=en-US}}</ref> In 1915 and in 1917, ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' magazine reported that the garments of La Maison Chanel were "on the list of every buyer" for the clothing factories of Europe.<ref name="directory"/> The Chanel dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon presented day-wear dress-and-coat ensembles of simple design, and black evening dresses trimmed with lace; and [[tulle netting|tulle-fabric]] dresses decorated with [[Jet (lignite)|jet]], a minor gemstone material.<ref name="directory"/> [[File:Chanel jersey casual wear 1917,.jpg|thumb|Illustration of three women in Chanel day outfits consisting of belted tunic jackets and full jersey skirts, 1917]] After the First World War, La Maison Chanel, following the fashion trends of the 1920s, produced beaded dresses made popular by [[Flapper]] women.<ref name="directory" /> The simple-line, 'flat-chested' fashions Chanel ''couture'' made popular were opposite of the [[hourglass figure]] fashions of the late 19th century – the [[Belle Époque]] of France ({{Circa|1890}}–1914), and the British [[Edwardian era]] ({{circa|1901}}–1919). Chanel used colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as grey and navy blue, to denote feminine boldness.<ref name="ContemporaryFashion" /><ref>''Costume", p. 52, [[Eyewitness Books]].''</ref> Chanel clothing often featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings; the quilted construction reinforced the fabric, design, and finish, allowing the garment to maintain its form and function while worn. An example is the [[Worsted|woolen]] Chanel suit – a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket, trimmed and decorated with black [[embroidery]] and gold-coloured buttons, often accessorized with two-tone [[Court shoe|pump shoes]], a necklace of pearls, and a leather handbag.<ref name="directory" /><ref name="ContemporaryFashion" /><ref name="funding" /> In 1921, to complement Chanel's clothing lines, Coco Chanel commissioned perfumer [[Ernest Beaux]] to create a perfume for La Maison Chanel. His perfumes included the perfume [[Chanel No. 5|No.5]], named after the number of the sample Chanel liked best. Originally, given as a gift to clients, No.5's popularity prompted La Maison Chanel to offer it for sale in 1922. In 1923, to explain the success of her clothes, Coco Chanel told ''Harper's Bazaar'' magazine that design "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."<ref name="directory"/><ref>{{cite news | url=http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,858285-2,00.html | magazine=Time | title=BUSINESS ABROAD: King of Perfume | date=14 September 1953 | access-date=28 April 2010 | url-status=dead | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100710144413/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,858285-2,00.html | archive-date=10 July 2010}}</ref> ;Business partners (late 1920s) The success of the [[Chanel No. 5|No. 5]] encouraged Coco Chanel to expand perfume sales beyond France and Europe and to develop other perfumes – for which she required investment capital, business acumen, and access to the North American market. To that end, the businessman [[Théophile Bader]] (founder of [[Galeries Lafayette]]) introduced the [[venture capital]]ist [[Pierre Wertheimer]] to Coco Chanel. Their business deal established the Parfums Chanel company, a ''parfumerie'' of which Wertheimer owned 70 per cent, Bader owned 20 per cent, and Chanel owned 10 per cent; commercial success of the joint enterprise was assured by the Chanel name, and by the cachet of la "Maison Chanel", which remained the sole business province of Coco Chanel.<ref name="funding"/> Nonetheless, despite the success of the Chanel couture and ''parfumerie'', the personal relations between Coco and her capitalist partner deteriorated, because, Coco said that Pierre Wertheimer was exploiting her talents as a fashion designer and as a businesswoman.<ref name="funding"/> Wertheimer reminded Chanel that he had made her a very rich woman; and that his venture capital had funded Chanel's productive expansion of the ''parfumerie'' which created the wealth they enjoyed, all from the success of No. 5 de Chanel. Nevertheless, unsatisfied, the businesswoman Gabrielle Chanel hired the attorney [[René de Chambrun]] to renegotiate the 10-per-cent partnership she entered, in 1924, with the Parfums Chanel company; the lawyer-to-lawyer negotiations failed, and the partnership-percentages remained as established in the original business deal among Wertheimer, Badel, and Chanel.<ref name="funding"/> ;War (1930s–1940s) From the [[gamine]] fashions of the 1920s, Coco Chanel progressed to womanly fashions in the 1930s: evening-dress designs were characterised by an elongated feminine style, and summer dresses featured contrasts such as silver eyelets, and shoulder straps decorated with [[rhinestone]]s – drawing from Renaissance-time fashion stylings. In 1932, Chanel presented an exhibition of jewellery dedicated to the diamond as a fashion accessory; it featured the ''Comet'' and ''Fountain'' necklaces of diamonds, which were of such original design, that Chanel S.A. re-presented them in 1993. Moreover, by 1937, the House of Chanel had expanded the range of its clothes to more women and presented ''prêt-à-porter'' clothes designed and cut for the petite woman.<ref name="directory"/> Among fashion designers, only the clothes created by [[Elsa Schiaparelli]] could compete with the clothes of Chanel.<ref name="directory"/> [[Image:Bundesarchiv Bild 101III-Alber-178-04A, Walter Schellenberg.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Chanel's spymaster:<br />General [[Walter Schellenberg]], Chief of the ''[[Sicherheitsdienst]]'']] During the [[World War II|Second World War]] (1939–45), Coco Chanel closed shop at Maison Chanel – leaving only jewellery and ''parfumerie'' for sale – and moved to the [[Hôtel Ritz Paris]], where she lived with her boyfriend, Hans Günther von Dincklage, a Nazi intelligence officer.<ref name="directory"/><ref name="ContemporaryFashion"/><ref name="funding"/> Upon conquering France in June 1940, the Nazis established a Parisian occupation-headquarters in the [[Hôtel Meurice]], on the [[Rue de Rivoli]], opposite the [[Musée du Louvre|Louvre Museum]], and just around the corner from the fashionable Maison Chanel S.A., at 31 Rue Cambon.<ref name="directory"/> Meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation's official anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the U.S., in mid-1940. Later, in 1941, Coco Chanel attempted to assume business control of Parfums Chanel but was thwarted by an administrative [[delegation]] that disallowed her sole disposition of the ''parfumerie''. Having foreseen the Nazi occupation policy of the seizure-and-expropriation to Germany of Jewish business and assets in France, Pierre Wertheimer, the majority partner, had earlier, in May 1940, designated [[Felix Amiot]], a Christian French industrialist, as the "[[Aryanism|Aryan]]" proxy whose legal control of the Parfums Chanel business proved politically acceptable to the Nazis, who then allowed the perfume company to continue as an operating business.<ref name="funding"/><ref>Mazzeo, Tilar J. ''The Secret of Chanel No. 5'' HarperCollins 2010, p. 150.</ref> Occupied France abounded with rumours that Coco Chanel was a Nazi [[collaborationism|collaborator]]; her clandestine identity was secret agent 7124 of the [[Abwehr]], code-named "Westminster".<ref name="The New Yorker-McAuley">{{cite magazine |last=McAuley |first=James |url=https://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/books/2011/09/the-exchange-coco-chanel.html |title=The Exchange: Coco Chanel and the Nazi Party |magazine=The New Yorker |date=1 September 2011 |access-date=4 September 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111026072343/http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/books/2011/09/the-exchange-coco-chanel.html |archive-date=26 October 2011}}</ref> As such, by order of General [[Walter Schellenberg]], of the ''[[Sicherheitsdienst]]'', Chanel was despatched to London on a mission to communicate to British Prime Minister [[Winston Churchill]] the particulars of a "separate peace" plan proposed by ''[[Reichsführer-SS]]'' [[Heinrich Himmler]], who sought to avoid surrendering to the [[Red Army]] of the Soviet Russians. At War's end, upon the [[Liberation of France|Allied liberation of France]], Chanel was arrested for having collaborated with the Nazis. In September 1944, the [[Free French]] Purge Committee, the ''[[Épuration légale|épuration]]'', summoned Chanel for interrogation about her collaborationism, yet, without documentary evidence of or witnesses to her collaboration with the Nazis, and because of Churchill's secret intervention in her behalf, the ''épuration'' released Coco Chanel from arrest as a traitor to France.<ref name="funding"/><ref>Vaughan, Hal. ''Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War'' Alfred A. Knopf. 2011 pp. 186–87</ref> Despite having been freed by the political grace of Churchill, the strength of the rumours of Chanel's Nazi collaboration had made it impossible for her to remain in France; so Coco Chanel and her German lover, Hans Günther von Dincklage, went into an eight-year exile to [[Switzerland]].<ref name="directory"/><ref name="funding"/> In the post–war period, during Coco Chanel's Swiss exile from France, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and regained formal administrative control of his family's business holdings – including control of Parfums Chanel, the ''parfumerie'' established with his venture capital, and successful because of the Chanel name.<ref name="funding"/> In Switzerland, the news revived Coco Chanel's resentment at having been exploited by her business partner, for only ten per cent of the money. So she established a rival Swiss ''parfumerie'' to create, produce, and sell ''her'' "Chanel perfumes". In turn, Wertheimer, the majority capital stock owner of Parfums Chanel, saw his business interests threatened, and his commercial rights infringed because he did not possess legally exclusive rights to the Chanel name. Nonetheless, Wertheimer avoided a trademark infringement lawsuit against Coco Chanel, lest it damage the commercial reputation and the artistic credibility of ''his'' Chanel-brand ''parfumerie''. Pierre Wertheimer settled his business and commercial-rights quarrel with Chanel, and, in May 1947, they renegotiated the 1924 contract that had established Parfums Chanel – she was paid $400,000 in cash (wartime profits from the sales of perfume No. 5 de Chanel); assigned a 2.0 per cent running royalty from the sales of No. 5 ''parfumerie''; assigned limited commercial rights to sell ''her'' "Chanel perfumes" in Switzerland; and granted a perpetual monthly stipend that paid all of her expenses. In exchange, Gabrielle Chanel closed her Swiss ''parfumerie'' enterprise, and sold to Parfums Chanel the full rights to the name "Coco Chanel".<ref name="funding"/><ref>Mazzeo, Tilar J. ''The Secret of Chanel No. 5'', pp. 176–77.</ref> ;Resurgence (1950s–1970s) [[File:1965 purple Chanel suit.jpg|thumb|170px|A Chanel suit, 1965]] In 1953, upon returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found the fashion business enamoured of the "[[Christian Dior S.A.|New Look]]" (1947), by [[Christian Dior]]; the signature shape featured a below-mid-calf-length, full-skirt, a narrow waist, and a large bust (stylistically absent since 1912). As a post–war fashion that used some 20 yards of fabric, the [[Christian Dior S.A.|House of Dior]] couture renounced wartime rationing of fabric for clothes.<ref name="funding"/> In 1947 – after the six-year austerities of the [[Second World War]] (1939–45) – the New Look was welcomed by the fashion business of Western Europe because sales of the pretty clothes would revive business and the economy.<ref name="directory"/> To regain the business primacy of the House of Chanel, in the fashion fields of ''haute couture'', ''prêt-à-porter'', costume jewellery, and ''parfumerie'', would be expensive; so Chanel approached Pierre Wertheimer for business advice and capital.<ref name="funding"/> Having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer's negotiations to fund the resurgence of the House of Chanel, granted him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products.<ref name="funding"/> In 1953, Chanel collaborated with jeweler [[Robert Goossens]]; he was to design jewelry (bijouterie and gemstone) to complement the fashions of the House of Chanel; notably, long-strand necklaces of black pearls and of white pearls, which high contrast softened the severe design of the knitted-wool Chanel Suit (skirt and cardigan jacket).<ref name="ContemporaryFashion"/> The House of Chanel also presented leather handbags with either gold-colour chains or metal-and-leather chains, which allowed carrying the handbag from the shoulder or in hand. The quilted-leather handbag was presented to the public in February 1955. In-house, the numeric version of the launching date "[[Chanel 2.55]]" for that line of handbags became the internal "appellation" for that model of the quilted-leather handbag.<ref name="directory"/> The firm's initial venture into masculine ''parfumerie'' was an [[eau de toilette]] called Pour Monsieur. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 [[Neiman Marcus Fashion Award|Fashion Awards]] in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20 per cent share of the Parfums Chanel, which increased the Wertheimer percentage to 90 per cent.<ref name="funding"/> [[File:Woman wearing a Chanel cheongsam with oriental robe and a feather hat in1950s.jpg|thumb|Woman wearing a Chanel cheongsam with robe and a feather hat in 1950s]] Later, in 1965, Pierre's son, [[Jacques Wertheimer]], assumed his father's management of the ''parfumerie''.<ref name="funding"/> About the past business relationship, between Pierre Wertheimer and Coco Chanel, the Chanel attorney, Chambrun said that it had been "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation . . . [thus] when Pierre returned to Paris, full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."<ref name="funding"/> Coco Chanel died on 10 January 1971, at the age of 87.<ref name="directory"/> She was still designing at the time of her death.<ref name="directory"/> For example, in the (1966–1969) period, she designed the air hostess uniforms for [[Olympic Airlines|Olympic Airways]], the designer who followed her was [[Pierre Cardin]]. In that time, Olympic Airways was a luxury airline, owned by the transport magnate [[Aristotle Onassis]]. After her death, the leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourgé.<ref name="directory"/> So far, the bags designed by Chanel are still very popular in the vintage market.<ref>{{Cite web|title=可可香奈儿,一个戏精女孩的奋斗史|url=http://www.sohu.com/a/227899381_100134708|access-date=6 August 2020|website=sohu.com|language=en}}</ref> After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the controlling interest of the House of Chanel.<ref name="directory"/><ref name="funding"/> Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding.<ref name="funding"/> In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. [[Alain Wertheimer]], son of Jacques Wertheimer, assumed control of Chanel S.A. in 1974.<ref name="directory"/><ref name="funding"/> In the U.S., No. 5 de Chanel was not selling well.<ref name="funding"/> Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased.<ref name="funding"/> He used famous people to endorse the perfume – from [[Marilyn Monroe]] to [[Audrey Tautou]]. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded [[Karl Lagerfeld]] to end his contract with fashion house [[Chloé]]. Chanel has partnered with friends and ambassadors over the years including notable actors, musicians, and other artists: [[Kwon Ji-yong|G-Dragon]], [[Jennie (singer)|Jennie]], [[Angèle (singer)|Angèle]], [[Whitney Peak (actress)|Whitney Peak]], [[Caroline de Maigret]], [[Margaret Qualley]], [[Victoria Song]], [[Wang Yibo]], [[Minji (singer)|Minji]], [[Go Youn-jung]], [[Lily-Rose Depp]], [[Keira Knightley]], [[Kristen Stewart]], [[Marion Cotillard]], [[Nicole Kidman]], and [[Penélope Cruz]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=All six Korean ambassadors for 'Chanel' display their iconic visuals for the November issue of 'Elle' |url=https://www.allkpop.com/article/2022/10/all-six-korean-ambassadors-for-chanel-display-their-iconic-visuals-for-the-november-issue-of-elle |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=allkpop |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-03-08 |title=Chanel's Latest Ambassador Is Gossip Girl's New Star |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/chanel-ambassador-whitney-peak-gossip-girl-star |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel Names NewJeans' Minji Brand Ambassador |url=https://hypebae.com/2023/2/newjeans-minji-chanel-brand-ambassador-fashion-beauty-watches-announcement |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Hypebae|date=13 February 2023 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=US |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Chanel announces new brand ambassador: Lily-Rose Depp |url=https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/chanel-announces-new-brand-ambassador-lily-rose-depp,550599.html |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=FashionNetwork.com |date=16 July 2015 |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=McDermott |first=Maeve |title=Lily Rose Depp is the face of Chanel's new fragrance |url=https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/entertainthis/2016/05/23/lily-rose-depp-chanel-fragrance-campaign-no-5-leau/84799738/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=USA TODAY |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2020-04-29 |title=If Lily-Rose Depp Could Relive Any Fashion Memory, She'd Pick This Chanel One |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/miss-vogue/gallery/lily-rose-depp-chanel |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=British Vogue |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2018-02-27 |title=See Keira Knightley front the new Chanel fragrance, 10 years after her first campaign |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/fragrance/a18717742/chanel-fragrance-campaign-keira-knightley/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-09-26 |title=Mill Paris {{!}} Keira Knightley, star in the 'On the trail of Coco Mademoiselle' campaign by Chanel |url=https://www.themill.com/newsfeed/mill-paris-keira-knightley-star-in-the-on-the-trail-of-coco-mademoiselle-campaign-by-chanel/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=The Mill |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-03-13 |title=Kristen Stewart Fronts CHANEL'S Spring/Summer 2023 Campaign |url=https://smagazineofficial.com/fashion/kristen-stewart-fronts-chanels-spring-summer-2023-campaign-031338028 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=S/ magazine |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Bergeson |first=Samantha |date=2022-10-05 |title=Kristen Stewart Gets Whiplash in Chanel's Déjà Vu Ode to the French New Wave |url=https://www.indiewire.com/2022/10/kristen-stewart-chanel-ad-french-new-wave-1234769670/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=IndieWire |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-03-17 |title=Inside Chanel's Campaign Starring Kristen Stewart |url=https://hauteliving.com/2023/03/chanel-debuts-spring-summer-2023-campaign-starring-kristen-stewart/727119/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Haute Living |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-10-18 |title=Marion Cotillard Chanel No. 5 Holiday 2022 Perfume Campaign |url=https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/chanel-no-5-holiday-2022-campaign-marion-cotillard/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=www.fashiongonerogue.com |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=updated |first=Ying Chu last |date=2020-10-28 |title=Marion Cotillard Singing and Dancing for Chanel No. 5 Is Bringing Me Joy |url=https://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/a34510624/marion-cotillard-chanel-no-5/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Marie Claire Magazine |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Sharma |first=Neha Tandon |date=2020-11-27 |title=Made in 2004 for $33 million, this Chanel No 5 ad starring Nicole Kidman is still the most expensive ad ever made |url=https://luxurylaunches.com/beauty/made-in-2004-for-33-million-this-chanel-no-5-ad-starring-nicole-kidman-is-still-the-most-expensive-ad-ever-made.php |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Luxurylaunches |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-09-06 |title=Penelopé Cruz's Preppy Denim Is Off-Duty Style Done Right |url=https://www.glamour.com/story/penelope-cruz-chanel-denim |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Glamour |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=From Jackson Wang, To Wang Yibo: How K-Pop's Chinese Stars Become China's Favorite Brand Ambassadors {{!}} |url=https://chinafilminsider.com/from-jackson-wang-to-wang-yibo-how-k-pops-chinese-stars-become-chinas-favorite-brand-ambassadors/ |access-date=2023-05-31 |website=chinafilminsider.com}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Kim |first=Min-ji |date=2024-05-22 |title=프랑스에서 보내온 고윤정의 사적이고 내밀한 시간 [Private and intimate moments from Go Youn Jung in France] |url=https://www.wkorea.com/2024/05/22/%EA%B3%A0%EC%9C%A4%EC%A0%95%EA%B3%BC-%EC%83%A4%EB%84%AC%EC%9D%98-%EC%82%AC%EC%A0%81%EC%9D%B8-%EC%8B%9C%EA%B0%84/ |access-date=2024-09-24 |website=W korea |language=ko-KR}}</ref> === Post-Coco era (1980s–present) === [[File:Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2011.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Chanel couture by Lagerfeld: the A/W 2011–2012 collection]][[File:CHANELYorkdale.jpg|thumb|A Chanel store in North America]] In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, an ''eau de toilette'' for men. In 1983 [[Karl Lagerfeld]] took over as chief designer for Chanel. Like Chanel, he looked into the past as inspiration for his designs. He incorporated the Chanel fabrics and detailing such as tweed, gold accents, and chains. Lagerfeld retained what was signature for Chanel but also helped bring the brand into the present. In later collections Lagerfeld chose to break away from the ladylike look of Chanel and began to experiment with fabrics and styles. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques opened worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, the boutiques sold goods ranging from US$200-per-ounce perfume, US$225 ballerina slippers to US$11,000 dresses and US$2,000 leather handbags. Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were distributed only by Chanel outlets. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained the firm's approach, saying, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." 1984 saw the launch of a new fragrance in honor of the founder, ''[[Coco (perfume)|Coco]]''. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch debuted. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to [[New York City]].<ref name="funding"/> Maison de Chanel increased the Wertheimer family fortune to US$5 billion. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion.<ref name="funding"/> In 1994, Chanel had a net profit equivalent to €67 million on the sale of €570 million in ready-to-wear clothes and was the most profitable French fashion house.<ref name="LBM 2012 58">{{cite book|last=Chevalier|first=Michel|title=Luxury Brand Management|year=2012|publisher=John Wiley & Sons|location=Singapore|isbn=978-1-118-17176-9|page=58 (of 316) |edition=second|author2=Gerald Mazzalovo |chapter=3}}</ref> In 1996, Chanel bought gun-makers [[Holland & Holland]], but failed in its attempt to revamp the firm.<ref name="funding"/> The swimwear label Eres was also purchased in 1996.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.lifestyleasia.com/sg/style/fashion/eres-les-reeditions-collection/|title=This Chanel-owned swimwear label has all the vintage swimsuits you need|date=6 April 2018|website=Lifestyle Asia|language=en-US|access-date=8 January 2019}}</ref> Chanel launched the perfumes Allure in 1996 and Allure Homme in 1998. The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, Précision, in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a travel collection, and under a license contract with [[Luxottica]], introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames. While Wertheimer remained chairman, Françoise Montenay became CEO and President. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12. In 2001, watchmaker Bell & Ross was acquired. The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. Chanel launched a small selection of menswear as a part of their runway shows. In 2002, Chanel launched the Chance perfume and [[Paraffection]], a subsidiary company originally established in 1997<ref>{{cite web|title=Chanel|url=http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Chanel#cite_note-20|publisher=Voguepedia|access-date=28 September 2012|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131030104112/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Chanel#cite_note-20|archive-date=30 October 2013}}</ref> to support artisanal manufacturing, that gathered together Ateliers d'Art or workshops including Desrues for ornamentation and buttons, Lemarié for feathers, [[Maison Lesage|Lesage]] for embroidery, Massaro for shoemaking and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. In July 2002, a jewelry and watch outlet opened on [[Madison Avenue]]. Within months, a {{convert|1000|sqft|m2|-1|adj=on}} shoe/handbag boutique opened next door. Chanel continued to expand in the United States and by December 2002, operated 25 U.S. boutiques.<ref name="funding"/> [[File:Chanel Store in Prince's Building, Central, Hong Kong--2014-12.jpg|right|thumb|The Chanel flagship store at [[Prince's Building]], Hong Kong]] Chanel introduced [[Coco Mademoiselle]] and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003, targeting younger women, opened a second shop on Rue Cambon, opened a {{convert|2400|sqft|m2|-1}} boutique in [[Central, Hong Kong]], and paid nearly US$50 million for a building in [[Ginza]], Tokyo. In 2007, [[Maureen Chiquet]] was appointed CEO. She remained CEO until her termination in 2016.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/15/fashion/maureen-chiquet-chanel-book.amp.html|title=Maureen Chiquet's Move From Chanel to Self-Empowerment|work=The New York Times |date=15 April 2017 |access-date=28 October 2018|language=en|last1=Friedman |first1=Vanessa }}</ref> In 2018, Chanel announced relocation of its global headquarters to London.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/business-45517279|title=Chanel chooses London for global office|date=13 September 2018|work=BBC News|access-date=28 October 2018|language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |author=Sherman, L. |language = en |url = https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/with-eyes-on-london-chanel-closes-its-new-york-headquarters/ |title =With Eyes on London, Chanel Ltd. Closes Its New York Headquarters |publisher = Business of Fashion |date = 2018-09-07 |access-date = 2022-03-25}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |language = en |url = https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-09-15/chanel-ditches-new-york-city-digs-for-new-london-global-hub |title =Chanel Picks London Over New York, Paris as Base for Global Team |publisher = Bloomberg |date = 2018-09-15 |access-date = 2022-03-25}}</ref> In December of the same year, Chanel announced that it would ban fur and exotic skins from its collections.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://time.com/5470968/chanel-bans-fur-animal-skins/ |title= French Fashion House Chanel Bans Fur and Exotic Animal Skins |magazine= Time |language=en-US}}</ref> In February 2019, Lagerfeld died at age 85.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/karl-lagerfeld-dead-intl/index.html|title=Karl Lagerfeld, pioneering fashion designer, has died|last=John|first=Tara|date=19 February 2019|website=CNN Style|language=en|access-date=12 July 2019}}</ref> [[Virginie Viard]], who had worked with Lagerfeld at the fashion house for over 30 years, was named the new Creative Director.<ref>{{Cite magazine|url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a26407354/who-is-virginie-viard-karl-lagereld-successor/|title=Meet the Designer Succeeding Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel|last=Gonzales|first=Erica|date=19 February 2019|magazine=Harper's BAZAAR|language=en-US|access-date=12 July 2019}}</ref> Viard departed the brand in June 2024.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Guilbault |first=Laure |date=2024-06-05 |title=Virginie Viard Bows Out at Chanel |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/virginie-viard-bows-out-at-chanel |access-date=2024-12-12 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref> In December 2021, [[Leena Nair]] was appointed Global Chief Executive Officer.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.thehindu.com/news/international/chanel-appoints-unilever-executive-leena-nair-as-ceo/article37957876.ece|title=Chanel appoints Unilever executive Leena Nair as CEO |date=15 December 2021|website=The Hindu|language=en|access-date=15 December 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |author=Mehak Agarwal |language = en |url = https://www.businesstoday.in/latest/corporate/story/meet-leena-nair-chanels-new-indian-origin-global-ceo-315657-2021-12-15 |title =Meet Leena Nair, Chanel's new Indian-origin Global CEO |publisher = Business today In |date = 2021-12-15 |access-date = 2022-03-30}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |author=Akanksha Kamath |language = en |url = https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/what-we-know-about-leena-nair-the-new-global-ceo-of-chanel |title =What do we know about Leena Nair—the new global CEO of Chanel? |publisher = Vogue |date = 2021-12-14 |access-date = 2022-03-30}}</ref> In February 2024, Chanel opened its U.S. flagship store dedicated to watches and fine jewellery on [[Fifth Avenue]] in [[Midtown Manhattan|Midtown]] [[Manhattan]], [[New York City]], near [[Billionaires' Row (Manhattan)|Billionaires' Row]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2024/02/07/chanel-to-open-first-us-flagship-for-watches-and-jewelry-in-new-york/?sh=7c9678b2aaf0|title=Chanel To Open First U.S. Flagship For Watches And Jewelry In New York|author=Anthony DeMarco|work=[[Forbes]]|date=February 7, 2024|access-date=May 14, 2024}}</ref> In December 2024, [[Matthieu Blazy]] was appointed the next Artistic Director of Chanel.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-12-12 |title=Why Chanel Chose Matthieu Blazy |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/chanel-creative-director-matthieu-blazy/ |access-date=2024-12-12 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en}}</ref> Previously, he was creative director of Italian leather goods line [[Bottega Veneta]] where his work garnered critical acclaim and commercial success.<ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2024-12-12 |title=Matthieu Blazy Is Leaving Bottega Veneta |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a63020521/matthieu-blazy-bottega-veneta/ |access-date=2024-12-12 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-US}}</ref> === Exhibitions and retrospectives === The [[Palais Galliera]] featured a retrospective Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto (October 1, 2020 – August 17, 2021). The exhibit later traveled to [[Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo|Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum]] in Tokyo, [[National Gallery of Victoria]] in Melbourne (December 3, 2021 – April 25, 2022), and will debut at London's [[Victoria and Albert Museum|Victoria & Albert Museum]] (September 16, 2023).<ref>{{Cite web |last=Pelloux |first=Cécilia |title=Iconic Exhibition 'Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto' Opens In Palais Galliera In Paris |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/ceciliapelloux/2020/10/04/iconic-exhibition-gabrielle-chanel-fashion-manifesto-opened-in-palais-galliera-in-paris/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Cartner-Morley |first=Jess |date=2023-03-23 |title=V&A Chanel exhibition to feature 200 looks across seven decades |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2023/mar/23/v-and-a-gabrielle-chanel-fashion-manifesto |access-date=2023-04-20 |issn=0261-3077}}</ref><ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2023-03-24 |title=All the details on the V&A's major Coco Chanel exhibition |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a40125689/v-and-a-museum-coco-chanel-exhibition/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-05-26 |title=What To Expect From The V&A's Blockbuster Chanel Exhibition |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/chanel-v-and-a-exhibition |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=British Vogue |language=en-GB}}</ref> The [[Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum|ThyssenBornemisza National Museum]] in [[Madrid]] explored the relationship and reciprocal influence between Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel with a four-part exhibition (October 11, 2022 – January 15, 2023) spanning their works between 1915 and 1925.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Picasso/Chanel |url=https://www.museothyssen.org/en/exhibitions/picasso-chanel |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=WW |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Picasso and Chanel's reciprocal influences showcased in Madrid |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Picasso-and-chanel-s-reciprocal-influences-showcased-in-madrid,1447558.html |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=FashionNetwork.com |date=11 October 2022 |language=en-WW}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Farrant |first=Theo |date=2022-10-13 |title=When Coco met Pablo - How did Chanel and Picasso influence each other? |url=https://www.euronews.com/culture/2022/10/13/picasso-and-chanel-exhibition-explores-a-meeting-of-minds-and-mutual-interests |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=euronews |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Picasso / Chanel |url=https://www.madridcapitaldemoda.com/en/evento/picasso-chanel/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Madrid Capital de Moda |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title='Picasso and Chanel': Exhibition explores a meeting of minds and mutual interests |url=https://uk.news.yahoo.com/picasso-chanel-exhibition-explores-meeting-054551156.html |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Yahoo News |date=13 October 2022 |language=en-GB}}</ref> The [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]], home to the annual [[Met Gala]] in the [[financial centre|financial]] and [[fashion capital]] of [[New York City]], first honoured the house with a (May 5-August 7) 2005 exhibit chronicling the work of Coco Chanel's designs dating back to the 1920s. The museum's [[Costume Institute]] will unveil a posthumous retrospective, paying homage to former Creative Director, [[Karl Lagerfeld]] (May 5-July 16).<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Met Announces New Details for The Costume Institute's Spring Exhibition Exploring the Work of Karl Lagerfeld - The Metropolitan Museum of Art |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2023/karl-lagerfeld_new-details |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=www.metmuseum.org}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-03-22 |title=Just In: New Details About the Upcoming Met Exhibition, "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty" |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/just-in-new-details-about-the-upcoming-met-exhibition-karl-lagerfeld-a-line-of-beauty |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Feitelberg |first=Rosemary |date=2023-03-22 |title=The Metropolitan Museum of Art Shares Details About Upcoming Karl Lagerfeld Exhibition |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/the-metropolitan-museum-of-art-shares-details-upcoming-karl-lagerfeld-exhibition-1235592192/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Everything We Know About the 2023 Met Gala – Karl Lagerfeld Theme Hosts Chanel |url=https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/met-gala-2023-details-karl-lagerfeld-theme-hosts |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=L'Officiel USA |language=en-US}}</ref> === Philanthropy, sustainability, arts and culture === Fondation Chanel is the philanthropic arm of the house. Founded in 2011, some of the organization's key initiatives include promoting greater healthcare advocacy; addressing the disparities in gender-based violence; and "accelerating economic agency and empowerment". Fondation Chanel has partnered with organizations in Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America, the United Kingdom, and the United States.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Fondation CHANEL |url=https://www.theglobalfund.org/en/private-ngo-partners/resource-mobilization/fondation-chanel/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=www.theglobalfund.org |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Press release: Fondation CHANEL and UN Women partner to accelerate women's economic empowerment and counter climate change |url=https://www.unwomen.org/en/news/stories/2018/9/press-release-fondation-chanel-partnership |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=UN Women – Headquarters |date=28 September 2018 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel Foundation {{!}} EVPA |url=https://www.evpa.ngo/members/chanel-foundation |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=www.evpa.ngo}}</ref> Chanel announced (June 2021) an anchor investment in the Landscape Resilience Fund, contributing $25 million to farmers grappling with the impacts of climate change. Setting a new series of science-based targets, the company also launched the No.1 de Chanel beauty and fragrance line in 2022, with 97% naturally derived ingredients and eco-conscious packaging designed. The house also announced goals in accordance with the [[Paris climate agreement|Paris Climate Agreement]] to reduce its carbon footprint by 50% by 2030 and reduce its emissions from value chain by 40% by 2030. As part of the Chanel Mission 1.5 Climate Action Plan, the brand has pledged to transition to 100% renewable electricity by 2025. The company is also sourcing eco-responsible tweeds; shifting to maritime transport with a goal of 80% shipments by sea by 2024; and supporting land and livlihood projects throughout communities in Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-01-06 |title=Chanel Is Launching a Sustainable Beauty Line |url=https://www.newbeauty.com/chanel-sustainable-beauty-line/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=NewBeauty |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel launches N°1, a new beauty range that embraces naturality and sustainability |url=https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/chanel-launches-no1-a-new-beauty,19665 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Premium Beauty News |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=How far have luxury brands come in terms of sustainable beauty? |url=https://news.yahoo.com/far-luxury-brands-come-terms-165504388.html |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Yahoo News |date=6 January 2022 |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=15 Waste-Reducing Beauty Products to Buy Now |url=https://www.wmagazine.com/beauty/sustainable-beauty-waste-reducing-skincare-makeup-shop-earth-day |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=W Magazine |date=21 April 2022 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2022-01-06 |title=Step aside No.5: Chanel's new No.1 collection marks a new era for the brand |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/a38675928/chanel-no1-collection/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Panych |first=Sophia |date=2022-01-05 |title=Chanel Aims to Merge Luxury and Sustainability With Its Newest Beauty Line, No. 1 de Chanel |url=https://www.popsugar.co.uk/node/48660067 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=POPSUGAR Beauty UK |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel Goes Conscious: No.1 de Chanel Is The New Eco-Responsible Beauty Line That Took 10 Years To Make |url=https://www.marieclaire.com.au/chanel-beauty-no1-de-chanel-red-camellia |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Marie Claire |date=6 January 2022 |language=en-us}}</ref> In January 2024, Chanel launched an initiative with the consortium of 15 cosmetics-manufacturers, called the Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetics to catalyze traceability in the cosmetics sector.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel Leads Beauty Industry Consortium Aiming to Enhance Traceability |url=https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/chanel-leads-beauty-industry-consortium-aiming-enhance-traceability-1236148011/ |access-date=25 January 2024 |website=WWD|date=23 January 2024 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel co-founds new Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetics consortium |url=https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/chanel-and-clarins-co-found-new-traceability-alliance |access-date=25 January 2024 |website=Cosmetics Business}}</ref> === Arts and culture === The Chanel Culture Fund is a global program of initiatives and partnerships. Since its inception, the House has partnered with the [[National Portrait Gallery, London|National Portrait Gallery]] (London), [[Centre Pompidou|The Centre Pompidou]] (Paris), and the [[Power Station of Art|Power Station]] (Shanghai). The Fund awards an annual prize (Chanel Next Prize) of €100,000 to ten artists in the fields of performing and visual arts.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Lee |first=Wendi |title=Chanel Puts the Spotlight on Contemporary Artists With Its New Short Film |url=https://www.tatlerasia.com/lifestyle/arts/chanel-culture-fund-global-video |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Tatler Asia |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chanel Wants to Empower Artists With the Global Culture Fund - Chanel Culture Arts Fund |url=https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/chanel-global-culture-fund |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=L'Officiel USA |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Villa |first=Angelica |date=2021-12-13 |title=Chanel Names 10 Winners of Its First-Ever $113,000 Prize for Artists |url=https://www.artnews.com/art-news/news/chanel-next-prize-2021-winners-1234613106/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=ARTnews.com |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Meter |first=William Van |date=2022-04-28 |title=The Chanel Next Prize Awarded 10 Artists $100,000 Each, Including Precious Okoyomon and Wang Bing |url=https://news.artnet.com/art-world/whats-next-art-house-chanel-2106192 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Artnet News |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-12-13 |title=Chanel Just Awarded $113,000 to Ten Artists With Its New Next Prize |url=https://observer.com/2021/12/chanel-just-awarded-113000-to-ten-artists-with-its-new-next-prize/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Observer |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Pietroni |first=David Guido |date=2021-12-13 |title=Chanel Names 10 Inaugural Winners of Chanel Next Prize |url=https://www.art-insider.com/chanel-names-10-inaugural-winners-of-chanel-next-prize/3280 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Art Insider |language=en-CA}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Banks |first=Grace |title=Chanel's Yana Peel On Collaborating With Tilda Swinton To Discover The Next Generation Of Artists |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/gracebanks/2022/05/06/chanels-yana-peel-on-collaborating-with-tilda-swinton-to-discover-the-next-generation-of-artists/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref> Yana Peel, global head of arts and culture said of the Fund in an interview with Harper's Bazaar, "At a time when we are navigating our way through complex new environments around the world, we know that artists generate transformative ideas that help us envision the way forward. Chanel has always championed the vitality and advancement of the arts, and we now expand that tradition through the Fund with a focus on supporting cultural innovators and path-breakers who are mapping out what's next."<ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2021-07-21 |title=Chanel launches Culture Fund to help artists, galleries and museums |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/culture-news/a35862007/chanel-launches-culture-fund/ |access-date=2023-04-20 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-GB}}</ref>
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