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==Origin and history== The ''[[Kifli|kipferl]]'', an Austrian crescent-shaped pastry, can be dated back to at least the 13th century in Austria, and came in various shapes.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://germazope.uni-trier.de/Projects/WBB/woerterbuecher/dwb/wbgui?lemmode=lemmasearch&mode=hierarchy&textsize=600&onlist=&word=Kipferl&lemid=GK05212&query_start=1&totalhits=0&textword=&locpattern=&textpattern=&lemmapattern=&verspattern=#GK05212L0|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001041721/http://germazope.uni-trier.de/Projects/WBB/woerterbuecher/dwb/wbgui?lemmode=lemmasearch&mode=hierarchy&textsize=600&onlist=&word=Kipferl&lemid=GK05212&query_start=1&totalhits=0&textword=&locpattern=&textpattern=&lemmapattern=&verspattern=#GK05212L0|url-status=dead|title=Wörterbuchnetz|archive-date=1 October 2015|website=germazope.uni-trier.de}}</ref><ref name=":6">{{Cite web |date=2023-01-30 |title=A Brief History of the Croissant {{!}} Institute of Culinary Education |url=https://www.ice.edu/blog/brief-history-croissant |access-date=2024-01-09 |website=www.ice.edu |language=en}}</ref> The ''kipferl'' can be made plain or with nuts or other fillings (some consider the [[rugelach]] a form of ''kipferl'').<ref name="Alto">{{cite web |last1=Hartley |first1=Alto |title=A Brief History of the Croissant |url=https://altohartley.com/a-brief-history-of-the-croissant/ |website=Alto Hartley |date=16 January 2019 |access-date=16 June 2019 |archive-date=16 June 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616195239/https://altohartley.com/a-brief-history-of-the-croissant/ |url-status=live }}</ref> [[File:Boulangerie Viennoise formerly Zang's - 1909.jpg|thumb|upright=1.2|The original Boulangerie Viennoise in 1909 (when it was owned by Philibert Jacquet). The bakery proper is at left and its tea salon at right.]] In either 1838 or 1839, an Austrian artillery officer, [[August Zang]], founded a Viennese bakery ("Boulangerie Viennoise") at 92, rue de Richelieu in Paris.<ref name=":6" /><ref>The 1839 date, and most of what follows, is documented in Jim Chevallier, ''August Zang and the French Croissant: How Viennoiserie Came to France'', p. 3–30; for the 1838 date, see [http://www.slowfood.fr/bulletin/Diner_BS_PNY_2409_discours.pdf Giles MacDonogh "Reflections on the Third Meditation of La Physiologie du goût and Slow Food"] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303175218/http://www.slowfood.fr/bulletin/Diner_BS_PNY_2409_discours.pdf |date=3 March 2016 }} (p. 8); an Austrian PowerPoint – [http://www.oberoesterreich-tourismus.at/sixcms/media.php/1271/sandgruber_mahlzeiten.pdf Ess-Stile] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120529221535/http://www.oberoesterreich-tourismus.at/sixcms/media.php/1271/sandgruber_mahlzeiten.pdf |date=29 May 2012 }} – gives the date of 1840 (slide 46). A 1909 image of the bakery shows the same date for its founding, but the bakery was already documented in the press before that.</ref> This bakery, which served Viennese specialties including the ''kipferl'' and the [[Vienna bread|Vienna loaf]], quickly became popular and inspired French imitators (and the concept, if not the term, of ''[[viennoiserie]]'', a 20th-century term for supposedly Vienna-style pastries). The French version of the ''kipferl'' was named for its crescent (''croissant'') shape and has become a universally identifiable shape across the world.{{citation needed|date=March 2018}} The earliest known recipe for the present-day croissant appears in 1905, although the name croissant appears among the "fantasy or luxury breads" in 1853.<ref>Phillip and Mary Hyman, "Croissant", in ''The Oxford Companion to Food'', 3rd edition (2014), edited by [[Alan Davidson (food writer)|Alan Davidson]] and [[Tom Jaine]]</ref> Earlier recipes for non-laminated croissants can be found in the 19th century and at least one reference to croissants as an established French bread appeared as early as 1850.<ref>''Académie d'agriculture de France'', Mémoires (Paris: Bouchard-Huzard, 1850) First Part, p. 588</ref> Zang himself returned to Austria in 1848 to become a press magnate, but the bakery remained popular for some time afterwards, and was mentioned in several works of the time: "This same M. Zank {{sic}}...founded around 1830 [sic], in Paris, the famous Boulangerie viennoise".<ref>"Revue Moderne" or "Revue Germanique", 1861, p. 80</ref> Several sources praise this bakery's products: "Paris is of exquisite delicacy; and, in particular, the succulent products of the Boulangerie Viennoise";<ref>Chambers' Edinburgh Journal, 1847, p. 254.</ref> "which seemed to us as fine as if it came from the Viennese bakery on the [[rue de Richelieu]]".<ref>Théophile Gautier, "Voyage en Russie", Charpentier, 1867, p.188</ref> By 1869, the croissant was well established enough to be mentioned as a breakfast staple,<ref>"Nouvelle revue théologique", Casterman, 1869, p. 161</ref> and in 1872, [[Charles Dickens]] wrote (in his periodical ''[[All the Year Round]]'') of "the workman's ''pain de ménage'' and the soldier's ''pain de munition'', to the dainty croissant on the boudoir table"<ref>"The Cupboard papers: VIII. The Sweet Art", 30 November 1872</ref> The [[puff pastry]] technique that now characterizes the croissant was already mentioned in the late 17th century, when [[François Pierre La Varenne|La Varenne's]] ''Le Cuisinier françois'' gave a recipe for it in the 1680 – and possibly earlier – edition. It was typically used not on its own but for shells holding other ingredients (as in a [[vol-au-vent]]). It does not appear to be mentioned in relation to the croissant until the 20th century. The first recipe corresponding to the modern croissant, not only for the shape but also the texture of the dough and the taste, was published in 1906, in [[Paris]], in Colombié's ''Nouvelle Encyclopédie culinaire.''<ref>{{Cite book |last=Davidson |first=Alan |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bIIeBQAAQBAJ&dq=culinary+mythology+viennoiserie&pg=PA46 |title=The Oxford Companion to Food |date=2014-08-21 |publisher=OUP Oxford |isbn=978-0-19-104072-6 |language=en}}</ref> '''<span class="anchor" id="Sylvain Claudius Goy">Sylvain Claudius Goy</span>''' was a French chef who is sometimes said to have recorded the earliest recipe of the modern croissant.<ref>{{Cite web |title=A Brief History of the Croissant {{!}} Institute of Culinary Education |url=https://www.ice.edu/blog/brief-history-croissant |access-date=2023-03-23 |website=www.ice.edu |date=30 January 2023 |language=en}}</ref> His 1915 book ''La Cuisine Anglo-Americaine'' contains a croissant recipe which [[Frey Fine Books]] consider to be the first such recipe published, and they describe the recipe as having "[given] birth to the croissant of present day".<ref>{{Cite web |last=www.bibliopolis.com |title=LA CUISINE ANGLO-AMERICAINE by Sylvain Claudius Goy on Frey Fine Books |url=https://www.freyfinebooks.com/pages/books/24783/sylvain-claudius-goy/la-cuisine-anglo-americaine |access-date=2023-03-23 |website=Frey Fine Books |language=en-US |archive-date=23 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230323154448/https://www.freyfinebooks.com/pages/books/24783/sylvain-claudius-goy/la-cuisine-anglo-americaine |url-status=dead }}</ref> Goy's recipe uses a laminated yeast dough known in French as ''pâte feuilletée levée''.{{citation needed|date=May 2023}} ===Culinary legends=== [[File:Kifli.jpg|thumb|A ''kipferl'', a precursor to croissants]] Stories of how the ''kipferl'' — sometimes confused with the croissant — was created are widespread and persistent culinary legends, going back to the 19th century.<ref name="schimmer">Karl August Schimmer, The Sieges of Vienna by the Turks: Translated from the German of Karl August Schimmer and Others, trans. Earl of Francis Egerton Ellesmere (London: John Murray, 1879), p. 30–31</ref> However, there are no contemporary sources for any of these stories, and an aristocratic writer, writing in 1799, does not mention the ''kipferl'' in a long and extensive list of breakfast foods.<ref>Mme. de Genlis, "Manuel de Voyage", Berlin, P. T. de Lagarde, 1799, pp. 54–56.</ref> The legends include tales that it was invented in Europe to celebrate the defeat of the [[Umayyad Caliphate|Umayyad]] forces by the [[Franks]] at the [[Battle of Tours]] in 732, with the shape representing the Islamic [[crescent]]; that it was invented in [[Buda]]; or, according to other sources, in [[Vienna, Austria|Vienna]] in 1683 to celebrate the defeat of the [[Ottoman Empire|Ottomans]] by Christian forces in the [[Battle of Vienna|siege of the city]], as a reference to the crescents on the [[Ottoman flag]]s, when bakers staying up all night heard the tunneling operation and gave the alarm.<ref name="schimmer"/><ref>{{Cite news |last=Letters |date=2016-02-23 |title=A short history of the croissant shows it's Viennese, not French |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/feb/23/a-short-history-of-the-croissant-shows-its-viennese-not-french |access-date=2024-11-11 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077}}</ref> The Islamic origin story seems to have originated with the 20th-century writer Alfred Gottschalk, who gave two versions:<ref name="Gottschalk1948">{{cite book|last=Gottschalk|first=Alfred|title=Histoire de l'alimentation et de la gastronomie depuis la préhistoire jusqua'à nos jours: Illus. documentaires|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zDhEAAAAYAAJ|year=1948|publisher=Editions Hippocrate|language=fr|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170216033508/https://books.google.com/books?id=zDhEAAAAYAAJ|archive-date=16 February 2017}}</ref> {{blockquote|According to one of a group of similar legends, which vary only in detail, a baker of the 17th century, working through the night at a time when his city (either Vienna in 1683 or Budapest in 1686) was under siege by the Turks, heard faint underground rumbling sounds which, on investigation, proved to be caused by a Turkish attempt to invade the city by tunneling under the walls. The tunnel was blown up. The baker asked no reward other than the exclusive right to bake crescent-shaped pastries commemorating the incident, the crescent being the symbol of Islam. He was duly rewarded in this way, and the croissant was born.<br>The story seems to owe its origin, or at least its wide diffusion, to Alfred Gottschalk, who wrote about the croissant for the first edition of the ''Larousse Gastronomique'' (1938) and there gave the legend in the 'Turkish attack on Budapest in 1686' version; but who subsequently, in his own book (1948) on the history of food, opted for the 'siege of Vienna in 1683' version.<ref>{{cite book |title=Oxford Companion to Food |url=https://archive.org/details/oxfordcompaniont00davi_0 |url-access=registration |first=Alan |last=Davidson |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=1999 |page=[https://archive.org/details/oxfordcompaniont00davi_0/page/232 232] |isbn=978-0-19-211579-9 }} via {{cite web |url=http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodbreads.html#croissants |title=Croissants |work=[[The Food Timeline]] |first=Lynne |last=Olver |author-link=Lynne Olver |access-date=29 March 2016 |archive-date=25 September 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110925071709/http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodbreads.html#croissants |url-status=live }}</ref>||''[[Oxford Companion to Food]]''|source=''s.v.'' Culinary mythology, Origin of the croissant}} For this reason, the [[Islamic State]] attempted to ban croissants during the [[Syrian civil war]].<ref>{{cite news|last=Groden|first=Claire|title=Syrian Rebels Ban Croissants in Aleppo |url=https://newsfeed.time.com/2013/08/02/syrian-rebels-ban-croissants-in-aleppo/|access-date=9 August 2013|newspaper=Time|date=2 August 2013|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130807001231/http://newsfeed.time.com/2013/08/02/syrian-rebels-ban-croissants-in-aleppo/|archive-date=7 August 2013}}</ref>
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