Editing Dior (section)

==History==

===Founding===
The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946<ref name=vogue>[https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior "Christian Dior"] by Bibby Sowray, ''Vogue'' magazine, 5 April 2012. {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180915155056/https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior |date=15 September 2018}}.</ref> at 30 [[Avenue Montaigne]] in Paris. However, the current Dior company celebrates 1947 as the opening year.<ref name="dior">{{Cite web |title=- Christian Dior Finance |url=http://www.dior-finance.com/en/historique.asp |access-date=2025-04-04 |website=www.dior-finance.com}}</ref> Dior was financially backed by [[Marcel Boussac]], a wealthy businessman.<ref name="dior"/><ref name="funding">{{cite web|url=http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Christian-Dior-SA-Company-History.html|title=History of Christian Dior S.A.|work=fundinguniverse.com|access-date=18 October 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081017050509/http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Christian-Dior-SA-Company-History.html|archive-date=17 October 2008|url-status=live}}</ref> Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for [[Philippe et Gaston]], but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.<ref name="pochna">{{cite book |last1=Pochna |first1=Marie-France |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ffkK4dy00SoC&pg=PA90 |title=Christian Dior : the man who made the world look new |last2=Savill |first2=Joanna |date=1996 |publisher=Arcade Pub. Dior was reportedly introduced to Boussac by Jean Choplin, the founder of AIESEC and marketing director of Boussac. |isbn=9781559703406 |edition=1st English language |location=New York |pages=90–92}}</ref> The new couture house became part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac.<ref name="funding"/> Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees.<ref name="funding"/> Although the company was largely a vanity project for Boussac, it was a majority-owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Frères S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Dior's creativity also negotiated him a good salary."<ref name="funding"/>

==="New Look" {{anchor|newlook|new_look}} ===
[[File:Christian Dior (Moscow exhibition, 2011) 26.jpg|upright=.69|thumb|"Bar" suit, 1947, displayed in Moscow, 2011]]
On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six [[mannequin]]s" was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne.<ref name="dior"/> Originally, the two lines were named "Corolle" and "Huit".<ref name="dior"/> However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the "''New Look''" after the editor-in-chief of ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' [[Carmel Snow]] exclaimed, "It's such a new look!"<ref name="dior"/><ref name="funding"/> The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s.<ref name="dior.com">{{Cite web |title=THE NEW LOOK, A LEGEND |url=http://www.dior.com/couture/en_hk/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170328045217/http://www.dior.com/couture/en_hk/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution |archive-date=2017-03-28 |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=Dior |language=}}</ref> When the collection was presented, the [[editor-in-chief]] also showed appreciation by saying; "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian!"<ref name="dior.com"/> The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France.<ref name=mistry>{{cite magazine |last1=Mistry |first1=Meenal |title=Spring's new look: Sixty-five years ago, Christian Dior started a revolution that's still influencing the designers of today|magazine=Harper's Bazaar|date=1 March 2012}}</ref> Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking.<ref>Palmer, A., & Palmer, A. (2009). Dior.</ref> "We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well."<ref>Best, K. (2017). The history of fashion journalism. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.</ref>
The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the "Bar" suit from the first collection.<ref>{{cite web|title=The Golden Age of Couture – Exhibition Highlights: 'Bar' Suit & Hat – Christian Dior|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighBarSuit.php|publisher=Victoria & Albert Museum|access-date=13 February 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140125061114/http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighBarSuit.php|archive-date=25 January 2014|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title="Bar" suit and jacket |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81460 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140222020108/http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.58.34.30_C.I.69.40 |archive-date=2014-02-22 |access-date=2023-07-26 |website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art |language=en}}</ref> The Bar suit was a contribution from the head of Dior's tailoring atelier, a young [[Pierre Cardin]], who was employed by the house from 1947 to 1949.<ref>{{cite journal |title=Cardin First Struck Gold with Suit Made for Dior |journal=The New York Times |date=1958-08-27 |page=22 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1958/08/07/archives/cardin-first-struck-gold-with-suit-made-for-dior.html |access-date=2023-04-05 |quote=Cocteau and Berard...introduced...Cardin to [Dior,] who was...preparing his first fashion collection...Cardin designed, cut, and made a coat and a suit. He showed them to Dior, who...enrolled him on his team....Cardin spent three...years at Dior...Cardin...designed one of the most successful models...a suit called 'Bar,' which buyers the world over bought. |archive-date=7 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230407015530/https://www.nytimes.com/1958/08/07/archives/cardin-first-struck-gold-with-suit-made-for-dior.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects, as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-fashion-history/|title=1940s Fashion History for Women and Men|last=Sessions|first=D.|date=26 June 2017|access-date=21 April 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180421233504/https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-fashion-history/|archive-date=21 April 2018|url-status=live}}</ref>

The "New Look" became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after [[World War II]], regained its preeminence.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/events/how-haute-couture-rescued-war-torn-paris/ |title=How Haute Couture rescued war torn Paris |first=Anne |last=Sebba |date=29 June 2016 |work=[[The Daily Telegraph]] |access-date=11 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170212091359/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/events/how-haute-couture-rescued-war-torn-paris/ |archive-date=12 February 2017 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="hcn">{{cite news |url=http://www.hautecouturenews.com/2015/story/christian-dior/ |title=Revolutions in Fashion: Christian Dior |first=Lucy |last=Zotoff |publisher=Haute Couture News |date=25 December 2015 |access-date=11 February 2017 |archive-date=14 October 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221014192144/http://www.hautecouturenews.com/2015/story/christian-dior/ |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=How Paris Kept Position in Fashion |journal=The New York Times |date=1981-04-14 |page=B19 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1981/04/14/style/how-paris-kept-position-in-fashion.html |access-date=2022-04-04 |quote=Dior's bombshell brought manufacturers as well as store buyers rushing back to the City of Light as they sought to interpret his inspirational designs for their own clients....Throughout the 1950s, Paris was acclaimed as the source of fashion, and Dior's success helped stave off the development of other independent style centers for at least a decade. |archive-date=5 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230405091952/https://www.nytimes.com/1981/04/14/style/how-paris-kept-position-in-fashion.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as [[Princess Margaret]] in the UK.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Skacenko |first=Margarita |date=2024-03-14 |title=Christian Dior’s New Look - The History and Evolution |url=https://glamobserver.com/the-history-and-evolution-of-christian-diors-new-look/ |access-date=2025-04-16 |website=GLAM OBSERVER |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Mower |first=Sarah |date=2019-01-30 |title=Christian Dior, “Designer of Dreams,” Wows London—All Over Again |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/christian-dior-victoria-and-albert |access-date=2025-04-16 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Clinton |first=Leah Melby |date=2014-10-28 |title=Today's Princesses Can Thank THIS Designer, Who Invented Modern Royal Style |url=https://www.glamour.com/story/christian-dior-princess-margaret |access-date=2025-04-16 |website=Glamour |language=en-US}}</ref> According to [[Harold Koda]], Dior credited [[Charles James (designer)|Charles James]] with inspiring The New Look.<ref name="The Costume Institute Previews 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion'">{{cite web |url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/the-costume-institute-previews-charles-james-beyond-fashion-7437029?src=n/newsAlert/20140211-3 |title=The Costume Institute Previews 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' |publisher=WWD |date=11 February 2014 |access-date=12 February 2014 |author=Feitelberg, Rosemary |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140226054834/http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/the-costume-institute-previews-charles-james-beyond-fashion-7437029?src=n%2FnewsAlert%2F20140211-3 |archive-date=26 February 2014 |url-status=live }}</ref> Dior's designs from the "New Look" did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior's evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood's Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen's Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011).{{Citation needed|date=November 2021}}

Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing.<ref>[[Rationing in the United Kingdom|The United Kingdom endured severe rationing]] for many years after World War II ended. According to the [https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britain-during-the-second-world-war Imperial War Museum] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230523025344/https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britain-during-the-second-world-war |date=23 May 2023 }}, the government stopped clothes rationing in March 1949.</ref> Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these [[corset]]ed designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman's independence.<ref name="DW">{{cite news | url=http://www.dw.com/en/the-new-look-how-christian-dior-revolutionized-fashion-70-year-ago/a-37491236 | title=The New Look: How Christian Dior revolutionized fashion 70 year [sic] ago | first=Jan | last=Tomes | publisher=Deutsche Welle | date=10 February 2017 | access-date=11 February 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170211000704/http://www.dw.com/en/the-new-look-how-christian-dior-revolutionized-fashion-70-year-ago/a-37491236 | archive-date=11 February 2017 | url-status=live }}</ref> There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer [[Coco Chanel]] remarked, "Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable."<ref name="hcn" /> Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other [[designer]]s and fashion well into the 21st century.<ref name="mistry" /> For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior.<ref name="alexander">{{cite news |last1=Alexander |first1=Hilary |title=Galliano's new look at the New Look |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1540325/Gallianos-new-look-at-the-New-Look.html |access-date=20 April 2017 |work=The Daily Telegraph|location=London |date=23 January 2007 |language=en |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170421003744/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1540325/Gallianos-new-look-at-the-New-Look.html |archive-date=21 April 2017 |url-status=live }}</ref> Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to [[origami]] and other Japanese influences.<ref name="alexander" /> In 2012 [[Raf Simons]] revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner.<ref name="mistry" /><ref name="menkes">{{cite news|last1=Menkes|first1=Suzy|title=At Dior, a Triumph of 21st Century Modernism|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/29/fashion/29iht-fdior29.html|access-date=20 April 2017|work=The New York Times|date=28 September 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170420145748/http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/29/fashion/29iht-fdior29.html|archive-date=20 April 2017|url-status=live}}</ref> Simons's work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman's body and liberation of expression.<ref name="menkes" /> The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in ''[[Dior and I]]'', presenting Simons's use of technology and modernist re-interpretations.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Lemire|first1=Christy|title=Dior and I Movie Review & Film Summary (2015)|url=https://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/dior-and-i-2015|website=Roger Ebert|publisher=Ebert Digital|access-date=20 April 2017|language=en|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170420234841/http://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/dior-and-i-2015|archive-date=20 April 2017|url-status=live}}</ref>

===Dior ===
[[File:Dior NYC Flagship (48064046348).jpg|thumb|right|Dior's store in [[New York City]], 2019]]
Available references contradict themselves whether [[Christian Dior Parfums]] was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior company lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, ''Miss Dior''.<ref name="dior"/> Dior revolutionized the perfume industry with the launch of the highly popular ''Miss Dior parfum'', which was named after [[Catherine Dior]] (Christian Dior's sister).<ref name="dior"/> Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche.<ref name="dior"/> [[Pierre Cardin]] was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a Christian Dior Parfums branch in [[New York City]] was established—this could be the cause of the establishment-date issue.<ref name="dior"/> The modern Dior company also notes that "a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of [[Fifth Avenue|5th Avenue]] and 57th Street, the first of its kind," in 1948.<ref name="dior"/> In 1949, the ''Diorama'' perfume was released<ref name="dior"/> and by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit of FFr 12.7&nbsp;million.<ref name="funding"/>

===Expansion, and death of Christian Dior===
[[File:Buenos Aires - Eva Perón de gala en fundación del Teatro Colón.jpeg|right|thumb|upright=.91|[[Eva Perón]], the [[First Lady of Argentina]] and one of Dior's [[Muse (person)|muses]], wears a custom [[evening gown]] at the [[Teatro Colón]], 1949.]]
[[File:Pair of silk satin evening pumps, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, ca. 1960.jpg|thumb|upright=.91|Silk satin evening pumps by Dior, {{Circa|1960}}]]
Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris's fashion exports and 5% of France's total export revenue.<ref name="funding"/>

In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1300&dat=19490304&id=ErITAAAAIBAJ&pg=6152,4920691&hl=en|title=The Age – Google News Archive Search|website=news.google.com|access-date=13 November 2020|archive-date=13 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201113045457/https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1300&dat=19490304&id=ErITAAAAIBAJ&pg=6152,4920691&hl=en|url-status=live}}</ref> A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/photographer-in-race-to-document-living-history-of-melbourne-fashions-of-the-1950s-20160601-gp92qu.html|title=Photographer in race to document 'living history' of Melbourne fashions of the 1950s|first=Melissa|last=Singer|date=4 June 2016|website=The Sydney Morning Herald|access-date=28 January 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190129010220/https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/photographer-in-race-to-document-living-history-of-melbourne-fashions-of-the-1950s-20160601-gp92qu.html|archive-date=29 January 2019|url-status=live}}</ref> The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19490501&id=OB0QAAAAIBAJ&pg=7309,197990&hl=en|title=The Sydney Morning Herald – Google News Archive Search|website=news.google.com|access-date=13 November 2020|archive-date=17 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201117203232/https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19490501&id=OB0QAAAAIBAJ&pg=7309,197990&hl=en|url-status=live}}</ref>

In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of "Christian Dior" visibly on a variety of [[luxury goods]].<ref name="funding"/> It was placed first on neckties<ref name="dior"/> and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves.<ref name="funding"/> Members of the [[French Chamber of Couture]] denounced it as a degrading action for the [[Haute couture|haute-couture]] image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue "for decades to come",<ref name="funding"/> which all couture houses followed.<ref name="dior"/>

Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of [[Marlene Dietrich]]'s dresses in the [[Alfred Hitchcock]] film ''[[Stage Fright (1950 film)|Stage Fright]]''. In 1951, Dior released his first book, ''Je Suis Couturier'' (''I am a Couturier'') through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company's strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time.<ref name="funding"/> Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952.<ref name="dior"/> An agreement was made between the Sydney label [[House of Youth]] for Christian Dior New York models.<ref name="dior"/> [[Los Gobelinos]] in [[Santiago, Chile]], made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture.<ref name="dior"/> The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953.<ref name="funding"/> As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did [[counterfeit]]ing.<ref name="funding"/> This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire.<ref name="funding"/> The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 [[Conduit Street]]. In honour of [[Princess Margaret]] and the [[Frances Spencer-Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough|Duchess of Marlborough]], a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957.<ref name="funding"/> However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look.<ref name="funding"/> Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between [[Avenue Montaigne]] and [[Rue François Ier]] in 1955.<ref name="dior"/> The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955.<ref name="dior"/> 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company's 10th anniversary in 1956.<ref name="funding"/> Actress [[Ava Gardner]] had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the [[Mark Robson (film director)|Mark Robson]] film ''[[The Little Hut]]''.

Christian Dior appeared on the cover of ''TIME'' dated 4 March 1957. The designer died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957.<ref name="dior"/><ref name="funding"/> The captivating impact of Dior's creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history's greatest fashion figures.<ref name="funding"/> Kevin Almond for ''Contemporary Fashion'' wrote that "by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury."<ref name="funding"/>

Throughout his career, Christian Dior's designs were worn by notable figures such as [[Grace Kelly]], [[Elizabeth Taylor]], [[Édith Piaf|Edith Piaf]], and [[Rita Hayworth]], [[Marlene Dietrich]], [[Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon|Princess Margaret]], and [[Jennifer Jones]] reflecting his influence across Hollywood and European high society.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Christian Dior - The Story of the "Emperor of Fashion" |url=https://dsfantiquejewelry.com/blogs/journal/christian-dior-the-story-of-the-emperor-of-fashion |access-date=2024-11-05 |website=DSF Antique Jewelry |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Uhrig |first=McKenzie |date=2022-10-02 |title=8 Biggest Celebrities Dior Has Worked With Over The Years |url=https://www.thethings.com/celebrities-dior-has-worked-with-over-the-years/ |access-date=2024-11-05 |website=TheThings |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Criales-Unzueta |first=José |date=2024-04-15 |title="The Idea of Freedom in New York is Very Strong"—Maria Grazia Chiuri On Her "Dior New York" Inspirations |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/maria-grazia-chiuri-dior-new-york-inspiration |access-date=2024-11-05 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref>

===Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s===
The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos, and general manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old [[Yves Saint Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint Laurent]] to Artistic Director the same year.<ref name="funding" /> Saint Laurent had joined the House's family in 1955 after being personally picked out by the original designer for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant.<ref name="dior" /><ref name="funding" /> Saint Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (the mention of ''Dior'' from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958.<ref name="funding" /> The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior's in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 [[Beat poetry|Beat]] Look inspired by the [[existentialists]] in the [[Saint-Germain des Près]] cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 [[Bohemian style|bohemian]] look was harshly criticized, and even more in ''Women's Wear Daily''.<ref name="funding" /> Marcel Boussac was furious, and in the spring, when Saint Laurent was forced to leave the house of Dior, having been called up to join the French army, the Dior management raised no objection. Saint Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections.<ref name="dior" />
[[File:Cover of Australasian Post With Miss Chinatown in 1966.jpg|thumb|Cover of Australasian Post in the 1960s With Miss Chinatown wearing a Christian Dior hat designed by Yves Saint Laurent]]

[[File:Christian Dior Haute Coutre Suit by Marc Bohan, Spring-Summer 1973.jpg|left|thumb|upright=.79|Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan, spring/summer 1973.<br />Adnan Ege Kutay Collection]]
Saint Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer [[Marc Bohan]] in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label "at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes," and Women's Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he "rescued the firm."<ref name="funding" /> Bohan's designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress [[Elizabeth Taylor]] ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan's Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the "Slim Look". The Dior perfume "Diorling" was released in 1963 and the men's fragrance "[[Eau Sauvage]]" was released in 1966.<ref name="dior" /> Bohan's assistant Philippe Guibourgé launched the first French [[ready-to-wear]] collection "Miss Dior" in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, "Baby Dior" opened its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line was released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior was taken over by Frédéric Castet.<ref name="dior" /> This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to [[LVMH|Moët-Hennessy]] (which would itself become [[LVMH]]) due to Boussac's ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior).<ref name="dior" /><ref name="funding" /> This, however, had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the ''Christian Dior Cosmetics'' business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line.

Following this, Bohan launched the first ''Christian [[Dior Homme]]'' clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by [[Gae Aulenti]] and the "Diorella" perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan.<ref name="dior" /> The first Dior watch "Black Moon" was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graced the bodies of [[Princess Grace of Monaco]], Nicaraguan First Lady [[Hope Portocarrero]], [[Alexandra of Yugoslavia|Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia]], and [[Lady Pamela Hicks]] ([[Louis Mountbatten, 1st Earl Mountbatten of Burma|Lord Mountbatten of Burma]]'s younger daughter) for the wedding of [[The Prince of Wales]] and [[Lady Diana Spencer]]. In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the [[Paris Trade Court]].<ref name="dior" /> The perfume "Dioressence" was released in 1979.<ref name="dior" />

===Arrival of businessman Arnault===
[[File:DiorBohan1.JPG|right|thumb|upright=.69|A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by [[Marc Bohan]], from the Spring 1983 collection]]
In 1980, Dior released the men's fragrance "Jules".<ref name="dior"/> After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981, [[Bernard Arnault]] and his investment group purchased it for "[[Peppercorn (legal)|one symbolic franc]]" in December 1984.<ref name="dior"/><ref name="funding"/> The Dior perfume "[[Poison (perfume)|Poison]]" was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became chairman, chief executive officer, and managing director of the company.<ref name="dior"/> On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company's mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the [[holding company]] Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business.<ref name="funding"/> On the 40th anniversary of Dior's first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior.<ref name="dior"/> In 1988, Arnault's Christian Dior S.A.'s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of [[LVMH|Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton]] through its subsidiary Jacques Rober, creating what would become one of the leading and most influential [[luxury good]]s companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born [[Gianfranco Ferré]] replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989.<ref name="funding"/> The first such non-[[Frenchmen|Frenchman]], Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as "refined, sober and strict."<ref name="funding"/> Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women's Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women's Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d'Or in 1989.<ref name="dior"/> That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%.<ref name="dior"/>

Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%.<ref name="dior"/> Another collection of watches named "Bagheera"&nbsp;– inspired by the round design of the "Black Moon" watches&nbsp;– was also released in 1990. Having fired the company's managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post.<ref name="funding"/> In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the [[Paris Stock Exchange]]'s monthly settlement market, and the perfume "Dune" was launched.<ref name="dior"/> Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500.<ref name="funding"/> 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3&nbsp;million, with a net income of $22&nbsp;million.<ref name="funding"/> Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women's ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children's wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company's control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted "for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility."<ref name="funding"/> Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, [[Kuala Lumpur]], [[Cannes]], and [[Waikiki]], adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and [[Geneva]]. This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations."<ref name="funding"/> In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the "Miss Dior" perfume was relaunched.<ref name="dior"/> Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name.<ref name="funding"/>
[[File:Grey leather and fur gloves by Christian Dior in box.jpg|left|thumbnail|Leather gloves by Christian Dior]]

The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named ''Christian Dior Couture'' in 1995.<ref name="dior"/> Also, the "La Parisienne" watch model was released – embodied in the watch "Parisian Chic". By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9&nbsp;million.<ref name="funding"/> Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue, CEO Arnault appointed British designer [[John Galliano]] to replace [[Gianfranco Ferré]] in 1997 (Galliano on [[CBS News]]: "without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior").<ref name="dior"/><ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.cbsnews.com/news/anna-wintour-behind-the-shades-14-05-2009/ | publisher=[[CBS News]] | title=Anna Wintour, Behind The Shades | date=14 May 2009 | access-date=4 November 2010 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101114061328/http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/05/14/60minutes/main5013905.shtml | archive-date=14 November 2010 | url-status=live }}</ref> This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have "ruffled some French feathers". Arnault himself stated that he "would have preferred a Frenchman", but that "talent has no nationality".<ref name="funding"/> He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that "Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style."<ref name="funding"/> Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as "Homeless Show" (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or "S&M Show".<ref name="funding"/> Meanwhile, Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano.<ref name="funding"/> On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened&nbsp;–it had been closed and remodeled by [[Peter Marino]]&nbsp;– in a celebrity-studded event including [[Nicole Kidman]], [[Demi Moore]] and [[Jacques Chirac]]. That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan's Kanebo.<ref name="dior"/>

In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of ''Dior Fine Jewellery'' and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne.<ref name="dior"/> The perfume "[[J'Adore (fragrance)|J'adore]]" was released in 1999.<ref name="dior"/> 

In October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the now-iconic [[Dior Saddle bag]], which became one of the first "[[It bag|It Bags]]" of the 2000s.<ref>{{cite web |date=2023-12-15 |title=The Dior Saddle Bag, with Alexander Fury |url=https://www.resee.com/en/blog/alexander-fury-on-saddle-bag |access-date=2025-03-26 |website=ReSee}}</ref> The show reflected the growing influence of [[hip-hop]] on luxury fashion, drawing inspiration from artists like [[Lauryn Hill]]—whose style and music were directly referenced through the soundtrack and runway styling. At the time, hip hop's fascination with luxury logos was increasingly shaping the fashion industry.<ref>{{Cite web |last=AnOther |date=2017-02-07 |title=The Influence of Lauryn Hill on Christian Dior S/S00 |url=https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/9510/the-influence-of-lauryn-hill-on-christian-dior-ss00 |access-date=2025-04-04 |website=AnOther |language=en}}</ref> In previous decades, many artists turned to custom designers like [[Dapper Dan (designer)|Dapper Dan]] due to being shut out from major fashion houses.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2025-03-09 |title=Doechii’s Dapper Louis Vuitton Look Serves Up a Quick History Lesson |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/celebrity/latest/a64112492/doechii-louis-vuitton-speedy-bag-paris-fashion-week-photos/ |access-date=2025-04-04 |website=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Marchese |first=David |date=2019-07-01 |title=Dapper Dan on Creating Style, Logomania and Working With Gucci |url=https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/07/01/magazine/dapper-dan-hip-hop-style.html |access-date=2025-04-04 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}}</ref> However, by the turn of the millennium, luxury brands such as Dior and Louis Vuitton began embracing logo-heavy aesthetics, giving rise to a phenomenon dubbed "logomania".<ref>{{Cite web |last=Dazed |date=2017-11-09 |title=The 00s monogram is back – this is why |url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38013/1/the-00s-monogram-is-back-this-is-why-logomania-louis-vuitton-gucci-dior-givenchy |access-date=2025-04-04 |website=Dazed |language=en}}</ref> The show featured models walking in denim, monogram prints, and locs, bridging streetwear aesthetics with Dior's couture identity, ushering in a new era of youth-driven, status-oriented style.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Hume |first=Jody |date=2018-10-29 |title=BACK IN THE SADDLE: THE HISTORY OF DIOR'S ICONIC BAG |url=https://realstyle.therealreal.com/history-dior-saddle-bag-diorissimo-oblique-authentic/ |access-date=2025-04-04 |website=The RealReal}}</ref>

In the same year, Dior's long watch partner Benedom joined the [[LVMH]] group. In 2000, Galliano's leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by [[Nick Knight (photographer)|Nick Knight]] and featured two women simulating intercourse. Like many other brands in the late 1990s, notably [[Gucci]],<ref>[http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2003-02/030227-toms-pubic-ad-avoids-ban.aspx Tom Ford's latest Gucci shocker is approved by the Advertising Standards Authority (Vogue.com UK)] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110611121641/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2003-02/030227-toms-pubic-ad-avoids-ban.aspx |date=11 June 2011 }}. Vogue.co.uk (27 February 2003). Retrieved 11 March 2011.</ref> featured suggestive images in their ads to draw public attention, Dior ads had such an impact that such publicity became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of erotic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro's zoophilic ads,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://petgirl.unblog.fr/files/2010/01/ungaro3.jpg|title=Image|access-date=4 November 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110720234525/http://petgirl.unblog.fr/files/2010/01/ungaro3.jpg|archive-date=20 July 2011|url-status=live}}</ref> shot by Mario Sorrenti, and another ad for Gucci that featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs.<ref name=":7">[http://thecrowdblog.blogspot.com/ The CROWD blog] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110708065710/http://thecrowdblog.blogspot.com/ |date=8 July 2011 }}. Thecrowdblog.blogspot.com. Retrieved 11 March 2011.</ref><ref>[http://www.thecrowdmagazine.com/www.thecrowdmagazine.com/Vilnet_Interview.html Vilnet Interview] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110716231240/http://www.thecrowdmagazine.com/www.thecrowdmagazine.com/Vilnet_Interview.html |date=16 July 2011 }}. Thecrowdmagazine.com. Retrieved 11 March 2011.</ref>

On 17 July 2000, [[Dior Homme]] lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by [[Hedi Slimane]]. Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive "Malice", which features bracelets made of "CD" links, as well as the "Riva". Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by [[Kris Van Assche]].

===21st century===
In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new "contemporary masculine concept" instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection.<ref name="dior"/> Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including [[Brad Pitt]] and [[Mick Jagger]].<ref name="funding"/>

John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the "Chris 47 Aluminum" line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the "Malice" and "Riva" watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the "Malice Sparkling" and "Riva Sparkling" spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the "Dior 66" watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design.

[[File:Tokyo Ginza-Shopping Dior.JPG|thumb|The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale [[Ginza]] shopping district of Tokyo. First opened in 2004.]]
The men's fragrance "Higher" was released in 2001, followed by the perfume "Addict" in 2002. The company then opened [[Milan]]'s first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation.<ref name="funding"/> On 3 June 2002, Slimane was presented with the "International Designer of the Year" award by the [[Council of Fashion Designers of America|CFDA]]. Until 2002, [[Kanebo]] was the Christian Dior [[ready-to-wear]] license holder in Japan and, when the license expired, Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its [[ready-to-wear]] and accessories in its own boutiques.<ref name="Luxury">{{cite book | title=Luxury Brand Management | publisher=John Wiley & Sons | author=Chevalier, Michel | year=2012 | location=Singapore | isbn=978-1-118-17176-9}}</ref> The "Chris 47 Steel" watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original "Chris 47 Aluminum". Bernard Arnault, [[Hélène Mercier-Arnault]], and [[Sidney Toledano]] witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the [[Omotesandō]] district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale [[Ginza]] shopping district of Tokyo in 2004.<ref name="dior"/> An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on [[Rue Royale]], and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme.<ref name="dior"/> A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent.<ref name="dior"/>

The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named "Le D de Dior" (French: "The D of Dior"). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called "Chiffre Rouge." This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: "Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme's artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces." De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called "La Baby de Dior". The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a "jewelry look."

[[File:Dior Omotesando 2007.jpg|thumb|left|Dior [[Omotesandō]], 2007]]
[[File:Dior, Debenhams, Sutton, Surrey, London.JPG|thumb|left|Dior sign in the [[Debenhams]] store in [[Sutton, London]], England]]
The "Miss Dior Chérie" perfume and the "Dior Homme" fragrance were released in 2005.<ref name="dior"/> Galliano released his "Dior Christal" watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a "creative and innovative collection." Christian Dior S.A. then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its "Chiffre Rouge" collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in [[Basel, Switzerland]]. Also in the year, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior.<ref name="dior"/> An exhibition, "Christian Dior: Man of the Century," was held in the Dior Museum in [[Granville, Normandy]].

In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior [[caneworking|Canework]]. This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the [[Napoleon III style|Napoleon III]] chairs used in his fashion shows.

In 2007, Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme. Van Assche presented his first collection later that year.<ref name="dior"/> The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well.<ref name="dior"/>

By February 2011, the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making antisemitic remarks made international headlines: the company found itself in a "public relations nightmare."<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ready-to-wear collection went ahead without him, amid the controversy, on 4 March.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/03/04/dior-show-john-galliano_n_831290.html#248916|title=Dior Autumn/Winter 2011 Show Goes on Without John Galliano (PHOTOS)|date=4 March 2011|access-date=7 July 2012|work=Huffington Post|first=Hilary|last=Moss|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120823145047/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/03/04/dior-show-john-galliano_n_831290.html#248916|archive-date=23 August 2012|url-status=live}}</ref> Before the start of the show, chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family's ties to [[The Holocaust]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8362214/Sidney-Toledanos-emotional-speech-at-Christian-Dior-show.html|title=Sidney Toledano's emotional speech at Christian Dior show|date=4 March 2011|access-date=7 July 2012|work=The Daily Telegraph|location=London|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120707172401/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8362214/Sidney-Toledanos-emotional-speech-at-Christian-Dior-show.html|archive-date=7 July 2012|url-status=live}}</ref> The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director. (The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring-Summer 2011 haute-couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway.) The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director.<ref>{{citation | url = http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/john-galliano-replaced-with-bill-gaytten | title = A New Era | publisher = Vogue.co.uk | date = 2011-06-27 | access-date = 2 September 2016 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160916093719/http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/john-galliano-replaced-with-bill-gaytten | archive-date = 16 September 2016 | url-status = live }}</ref> Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label. The first haute-couture collection (for the Fall-Winter 2011 season) under Gaytten's management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/articles/328206/20120415/dior-john-galliano-bill-gaytten-raf-simons.htm|title=Bill Gaytten's Spring Summer 12 Haute Couture Shanghai Show for Dior [Pictures]|last=Thakur|first=Monami|work=International Business Times|date=15 April 2012|access-date=7 July 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120831220130/http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/articles/328206/20120415/dior-john-galliano-bill-gaytten-raf-simons.htm|archive-date=31 August 2012|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="Gayttenfirstshow">{{cite web|url=https://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2011/07/dior_couture_suffers_without_j.html|title=Dior Couture Suffers Without John Galliano|last=Odell|first=Amy|work=New York|date=5 July 2011|access-date=7 July 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111104190056/http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2011/07/dior_couture_suffers_without_j.html|archive-date=4 November 2011|url-status=live}}</ref> Meanwhile, speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano. During its 13-month period of having no artistic director, Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded. The all-new resigned dior.com was launched in late 2011.

{{quote box|quote=There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house's esteemed founder. In one fell swoop, John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books. By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself, Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession. The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation; the bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote.|source= —Critic surmising the meaning of Simons' premier collection for Dior<ref name="guardianjuly2"/>|width=35%|align=right}}
On 23 January 2012, Gaytten presented his second haute-couture collection (for the Spring-Summer 2012 season) for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2012/01/gayttens-dior-couture-show-was-an-improvement.html|title=Bill Gaytten's Dior Couture Show Was Much Better Than Last Season's|last=Cowels|first=Charlotte|work=New York|date=23 January 2012|access-date=7 July 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120708234602/http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2012/01/gayttens-dior-couture-show-was-an-improvement.html|archive-date=8 July 2012|url-status=live}}</ref>

Belgian designer [[Raf Simons]] was announced, on 11 April 2012, as the new artistic director of Christian Dior. Simons was known for his minimalist designs,<ref name="guardianjuly2">{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/jul/02/raf-simons-show-christian-dior|title=Raf Simons puts doubts at rest with first show at Christian Dior|first=Jess|last=Cartner-Morley|work=The Guardian|date=2 July 2012|access-date=7 July 2012|location=London|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150618143253/http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/jul/02/raf-simons-show-christian-dior|archive-date=18 June 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano. Furthermore, Simons was seen to have emerged as a "dark horse" amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders.<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer, the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Welcome-Mr-Simons |title=Welcome Mr Simons |publisher=Christian Dior |date=11 April 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120618204055/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Welcome-Mr-Simons |archive-date=18 June 2012 }}</ref> Reportedly, Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years.<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> Simons spent much time in the Dior archives<ref name="thedailybeast"/> and familiarizing himself with haute-couture (as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion).<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July. Meanwhile, Gaytten's Spring-Summer 2012 haute-couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute-couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai;<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Night-falls-over-Shanghai |title=Night Falls Over Shanghai |publisher=Christian Dior |date=15 April 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120628232505/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Night-falls-over-Shanghai |archive-date=28 June 2012 }}</ref> and it was a mark of the company's devotion to its presence in the Chinese market.

[[File:Smith & Caughey's Queen Street Dior counter double view 2013.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.3636364|Cosmetics counter at [[New Zealand]] department store [[Smith & Caughey's]] in [[Auckland]], New Zealand]]

The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior, and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9206407/LVMH-chief-Sidney-Toledano-on-how-the-stars-have-aligned-at-Dior-as-Bill-Gaytten-bows-out-in-China.html |title=LVMH chief Sidney Toledano on how the stars have aligned at Dior, as Bill Gaytten bows out in China |last=Bergin |first=Olivia |publisher=Telegraph UK |date=16 April 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |location=London |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130131125226/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9206407/LVMH-chief-Sidney-Toledano-on-how-the-stars-have-aligned-at-Dior-as-Bill-Gaytten-bows-out-in-China.html |archive-date=31 January 2013 }}</ref>

On 3 May, the ''Dior: Secret Garden&nbsp;— [[Versailles (city)|Versailles]]'' promotional film was launched.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Secret-Garden |title=Secret Garden |publisher=Christian Dior |date=3 May 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120711162008/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Secret-Garden |archive-date=11 July 2012 }}</ref> It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition. Simons presented his first-ever collection for the company&nbsp;— the Fall-Winter 2012 haute-couture collection&nbsp;— on 2 July. A major highlight of the fall-winter 2012 haute-couture shows,<ref name="NYTjuly2">{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/05/fashion/raf-simonss-first-dior-collection.html|title=Past, Prologue, Dior|last=Horyn|first=Cathy|date=2 July 2012|access-date=7 July 2012|work=The New York Times|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120705210724/http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/05/fashion/raf-simonss-first-dior-collection.html|archive-date=5 July 2012|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="thedailybeast">{{cite web|url=http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2012/07/02/raf-simons-debuts-at-christian-dior-with-couture-collection.html|title=Raf Simons Debuts at Christian Dior With Couture Collection|last=Givhan|first=Robin|work=The Daily Beast|date=2 July 2012|access-date=7 July 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120707061816/http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2012/07/02/raf-simons-debuts-at-christian-dior-with-couture-collection.html|archive-date=7 July 2012|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://calgaryherald.com/life/fashion-beauty/Simons+changes+face+Christian+Dior+couture/6876447/story.html|title=Simons Changes Face Christian Dior Couture|work=Calgary Herald|date=7 February 2012|access-date=17 November 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161005231926/http://www.calgaryherald.com/life/fashion-beauty/Simons+changes+face+Christian+Dior+couture/6876447/story.html|archive-date=5 October 2016|url-status=live}}</ref> the collection was called by the company as "the new couture" and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons "wiping the [haute couture] slate clean and starting again from scratch."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/The-New-Couture |title=The New Couture |publisher=Christian Dior |date=3 July 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120706153828/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/The-New-Couture |archive-date=6 July 2012 }}</ref> The designer's collection "made more references to Mr. Dior than to the house of Dior"<ref name="guardianjuly2"/> with pieces harkening back to themes Dior's post-World War II designs introduced to fashion.<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> Simons, who rarely makes himself available for interviews, gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/After-show |title=After Show |publisher=Christian Dior |date=3 July 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120711215806/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/After-show |archive-date=11 July 2012 }}</ref> While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the [[Musée Rodin]], Simons' show was held at a private residence, near the [[Arc de Triomphe]], with the address only disclosed to select top-clients, celebrities, journalists, and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair.<ref name="live">{{cite web|url=http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Live |title=Live |publisher=Christian Dior |date=2 July 2012 |access-date=7 July 2012 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120706235003/http://www.dior.com/magazine/en_gb/News/Live |archive-date=6 July 2012 }}</ref> High-profile figures in attendance included designers [[Azzedine Alaïa]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="thedailybeast"/> [[Pierre Cardin]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="washingtonpost">{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/raf-simons-changes-the-face-of-christian-dior-in-couture-day-1/2012/07/02/gJQAHCcLJW_story.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160910232206/https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/raf-simons-changes-the-face-of-christian-dior-in-couture-day-1/2012/07/02/gJQAHCcLJW_story.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=10 September 2016|title=Raf Simons changes the face of Christian Dior in couture day 1|first=Thomas|last=Adamson|access-date=7 July 2012}}</ref> [[Alber Elbaz]] (Lanvin designer),<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="guardianjuly2"/><ref name="thedailybeast"/> [[Diane von Fürstenberg]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="guardianjuly2"/><ref name="washingtonpost"/> [[Marc Jacobs]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="guardianjuly2"/><ref name="washingtonpost"/> [[Christopher Kane]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="guardianjuly2"/> [[Olivier Theyskens]],<ref name="thedailybeast"/> [[Riccardo Tisci]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="washingtonpost"/> [[Donatella Versace]];<ref name="NYTjuly2"/><ref name="guardianjuly2"/><ref name="thedailybeast"/><ref name="washingtonpost"/> and [[Charlene, Princess of Monaco|Princess Charlene of Monaco]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> actresses [[Marion Cotillard]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> [[Mélanie Laurent]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> [[Jennifer Lawrence]],<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> [[Sharon Stone]]; film producer [[Harvey Weinstein]];<ref name="thedailybeast"/> and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter.<ref name="NYTjuly2"/> Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication.<ref name="live"/> By then, it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012.<ref name="guardianjuly2"/>

In March 2015 it was announced that Barbadian singer, actress and businesswoman [[Rihanna]] was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior; this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior.<ref>{{cite web |author=Avery Thompson |url=http://hollywoodlife.com/2015/03/14/rihanna-dior-campaign-first-black-woman/ |title=Rihanna's Dior Campaign: Singer Is First Black Woman To Be Face of Iconic Brand |publisher=Hollywood Life |date=2015-03-14 |access-date=2015-03-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150317010222/http://hollywoodlife.com/2015/03/14/rihanna-dior-campaign-first-black-woman/ |archive-date=17 March 2015 |url-status=live }}</ref> In 2015, [[Israel]]i model [[Sofia Mechetner]] was chosen to be the new face of Dior.<ref>[https://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/worldviews/wp/2015/07/12/how-a-14-year-old-israeli-teen-became-the-new-face-of-christian-dior/ How a 14-year-old Israeli became the new face of Christian Dior] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150713175430/https://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/worldviews/wp/2015/07/12/how-a-14-year-old-israeli-teen-became-the-new-face-of-christian-dior/ |date=13 July 2015 }} By Ruth Eglash, [[The Washington Post]] Sunday, 12 July 2015</ref>

In 2016, [[Maria Grazia Chiuri]] was named the women's artistic director for Dior.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/maria-grazia-chiuri-dior-french-legion-of-honour-award-feminist-marlene-schiappa-a8983781.html|title=Dior's feminist designer awarded French Legion of Honour|date=2019-07-02|website=The Independent|language=en|access-date=2019-07-12|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190712044824/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/maria-grazia-chiuri-dior-french-legion-of-honour-award-feminist-marlene-schiappa-a8983781.html|archive-date=12 July 2019|url-status=live}}</ref>

In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco, with a party hosted by [[Jaime King]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://sfluxe.net/see-what-happened-at-diors-san-francisco-premiere/|title=See What Happened at Dior's San Francisco Premiere|last=Matthews|first=Damion|date=2016-04-23|website=SFLUXE|language=en-US|access-date=2016-06-26|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160625115112/http://sfluxe.net/see-what-happened-at-diors-san-francisco-premiere/|archive-date=25 June 2016|url-status=usurped}}</ref>

In 2017, Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store. The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gómez Palomo.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/dior-celebrates-reopening-of-madrid-store-pedro-almodovar-rossy-de-palma-palomo-11055994/|title=Dior Celebrates Reopening of Madrid Store|last=Diderich|first=Joelle|date=2017-11-23|work=WWD|access-date=2017-11-23|language=en-US|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171123180250/http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/dior-celebrates-reopening-of-madrid-store-pedro-almodovar-rossy-de-palma-palomo-11055994/|archive-date=23 November 2017|url-status=live}}</ref>

In March 2018, [[Kim Jones (designer)|Kim Jones]] was named the men's artistic director for the house.<ref name="kimjonesNYT">{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/business/christian-dior-kim-jones.html|title=Dior Confirms Kim Jones as Men's Wear Artistic Director|last=Paton|first=Elizabeth|date=2018-03-19|work=The New York Times|access-date=2019-07-12|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180319164154/https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/business/christian-dior-kim-jones.html|archive-date=19 March 2018|url-status=live}}</ref> Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations. Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer [[Kaws|Brian Donnelly, a.k.a. KAWS]]. Thereafter followed collaborations with [[Raymond Pettibon]], 1017 ALYX 9SM, [[Yoon Ahn]], [[Hajime Sorayama]], [[Daniel Arsham]], [[Sacai]] and most recently Shawn Stussy, creator of the legendary streetwear brand [[Stüssy]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/dior-collaborations-timeline/|title=Dior Collaborations: A Full Timeline|date=2019-12-03|website=Highsnobiety|language=en-US|access-date=2019-12-04|archive-date=4 December 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191204200241/https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/dior-collaborations-timeline/|url-status=live}}</ref>

In October 2019, Dior apologized to [[China]] for using a map of China that excluded [[Taiwan]].<ref>{{cite news |title=The NBA landed in hot water after the Houston Rockets GM supported the Hong Kong protests. Here are other times Western brands caved to China after offending the Communist Party. |url=https://www.businessinsider.com/western-companies-apologize-china-communist-party-list-2019-10#christian-dior-after-an-employee-reportedly-used-a-map-of-china-that-did-not-include-taiwan-in-a-presentation-2 |work=Business Insider |date=8 October 2019 |access-date=16 June 2020 |archive-date=26 October 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211026213717/https://www.businessinsider.com/western-companies-apologize-china-communist-party-list-2019-10#christian-dior-after-an-employee-reportedly-used-a-map-of-china-that-did-not-include-taiwan-in-a-presentation-2 |url-status=live }}</ref>

On 11 March 2022, 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public.<ref name=":0">{{Cite news |title=Dior's 30 Avenue Montaigne reopens |url=https://gulfnews.com/kurator/share/diors-30-avenue-montaigne-reopens-1.1646998610950 |access-date=2022-03-12 |website=gulfnews.com |language=en |archive-date=12 March 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220312124038/https://gulfnews.com/kurator/share/diors-30-avenue-montaigne-reopens-1.1646998610950 |url-status=live }}</ref> The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect [[Peter Marino]].<ref name=":0" /> Historically, 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where [[Christian Dior]] showcased his first collection.<ref name=":0" />

In January 2023, it was announced [[Delphine Arnault]] would assume the role of chairperson and CEO, beginning in February.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Holland |first=Oscar |date=12 January 2023 |title=LVMH owner Bernard Arnault appoints daughter to run Dior |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/lvmh-bernard-arnault-appoints-daughter-delphine-arnault-dior/index.html |access-date=2023-01-17 |website=CNN |language=en |archive-date=17 January 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230117070856/https://www.cnn.com/style/article/lvmh-bernard-arnault-appoints-daughter-delphine-arnault-dior/index.html |url-status=live }}</ref>

In January 2025, Dior announced the departure of Kim Jones after 7 years with the brand.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Williams |first=Robert |date=2025-01-31 |title=Kim Jones Exits Dior Homme |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/kim-jones-exits-dior-homme/ |access-date=2025-01-31 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en}}</ref> They have not named a successor.