Open main menu
Home
Random
Recent changes
Special pages
Community portal
Preferences
About Wikipedia
Disclaimers
Incubator escapee wiki
Search
User menu
Talk
Dark mode
Contributions
Create account
Log in
Editing
Figure-eight loop
(section)
Warning:
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
log in
or
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
not
fill this in!
==Tying methods== ===On a bight=== [[Image:Fig8Follow.jpg|right|thumb|A figure-of-eight loop tied using the follow-through method.]] A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard [[figure-eight knot]]. In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking [[carabiner]]s, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.<ref name=":1" /> === Follow-through=== [[File:Dvojitý osmičkový uzel.jpg|thumb|A well-dressed figure-eight follow-through after tightening]] Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used. * Tie a regular figure eight knot with a significant amount of extra tail. * Loop the tail around the object. * Thread the tail back through the figure eight to create a normal looking figure eight on a bight. ==== Climbing ==== This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EU6LBAAAQBAJ|title=Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual|last1=Gaines|first1=Bob|last2=Martin|first2=Jason D.|date=2014|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9781493009626|language=en|quote=When tied correctly, the knot is tight, with a 5- to 8-inch tail ... Tie the figure eight so that its loop is about the same diameter as your belay loop. The figure eight knot does not require a backup knot.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-to-climb-tie-in-with-a-figure-eight-follow-through-knot/|title=Learn to Climb: Tie in With a Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot|last=Ritter|first=Max|date=2016-07-20|work=Climbing Magazine|access-date=2018-07-13|language=en-us}}</ref> Often an additional [[strangle knot]] (which is half of a [[double fisherman's knot]]) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/607322876|title=Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills|date=2010|publisher=Mountaineers Books|others=Eng, Ronald C., Van Pelt, Julie.|isbn=9781594851384|pages=141|oclc=607322876|quote=For instance, the overhand knot can be used to secure rope ends after ... a rewoven figure eight (fig. 9-4c). ... The rewoven figure eight is finished off by tying an overhand knot in the loose end of the rope.}}</ref><ref>Timothy W. Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs, {{ISBN|978-0-7360-6802-4}} ''Rock climbing''. Wilderness Education Association (U.S.) "There is great debate about whether the [Figure Eight] knot is finished at this point. Some people think stopping at this point is sufficient; others believe that since your life depends on this knot, you should back it up. ...The most common backup knot is a [strangle knkot]."</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Raleigh|first=Duane|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3Ohpsz6jP8cC&q=eighth&pg=PA28|title=Knots & Ropes for Climbers|date=1998|publisher=Stackpole Books|isbn=978-0-8117-2871-3|pages=28|language=en|quote=make certain you leave a long tail, and finish this with a Double Fisherman's}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Owen|first=Peter|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=N339fp0WUTYC|title=Knots|date=1993|publisher=Courage Books|isbn=978-1-56138-225-5|language=en|quote=A stopper knot must be added when the threaded figure eight loop is used to tie on a line.}}</ref> This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JxuaCgAAQBAJ|title=Climbing: Knots|last1=Fitch|first1=Nate|last2=Funderburke|first2=Ron|date=2015|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9781493015061|pages=32|language=en|quote=Tying a double overhand or barrel knot in front of the figure 8 follow through does not alter the failure mechanism of the knot. It simply adds another step to an already secure knot.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2015/07/the-figure-eight-follow-through.html|title=The Figure-Eight Follow-Through|last=Martin|first=Jason D.|website=American Alpine Institute|access-date=2018-07-13|quote=The reality of the so-called 'back-up knot'is that it is not necessary.}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=Members: Fig8 tail length|url=https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-fig8-tail-length/|last=Delaney|first=Richard|date=November 7, 2018|website=RopeLab Online|access-date=2020-05-28|quote=If correctly tied, dressed, and set then it does not need an additional stopper knot to secure the tail. ... I would recommend allowing a tail of 100mm.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Luebben|first=Craig|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RgOiCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA2|title=Knots for Climbers|date=2011|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=978-0-7627-6858-5|language=en|quote=The figure eight follow-through does not require a backup ... but it can't hurt to use one}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Vogel|first=Todd|date=2017-10-26|title=Knot and cord strength: answers to common questions|url=http://efclimbers.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171026072023/http://efclimbers.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf|archive-date=2017-10-26|access-date=2020-06-10|website=Earth First! Climbers Guild|quote=You do not need a backup knot behind a figure eight tie-in knot nor should students be taught that 'messy' knots are weaker than 'correct' knots.}}</ref> but could prevent ring-loading failure if [[belaying]] from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).<ref>{{Cite web|last=Geldard|first=Jack|date=1 July 2008|title=Belaying – 'Rope Loop' or 'Belay Loop'?|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/belaying_-_rope_loop_or_belay_loop-1129|access-date=2020-06-13|website=UKClimbing|language=en|quote=Make sure your knot is well tied, tight and has a stopper knot. Adding a stopper knot adds another link to the safety chain.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=rgold|date=16 Feb 2017|title=Is a stopper knot necessary with a figure-of-8?|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/starting_out/is_a_stopper_knot_necessary_with_a_figure-of-8-658634#x8500316|access-date=2020-06-13|website=UKClimbing Forums|quote=a situation to be aware of is when the climber belays off the rope loop rather than the harness belay loop}}</ref> It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107107403/|title=Is a safety knot on your figure-eight a necessity?|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-07-13}}</ref> If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://static.mammut.com/file/User_Manual_HI-MAM-026-7_Bergseile.pdf|title=Dynamic climbing ropes manual: Precautions for use|website=Mammut.com|quote=min. 10cm}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://media.edelrid.de/images/attribut/54517_GAL_DynamicRope_Seilteppich_ANSICHT.pdf|title=Dynamic Rope Manual: Fig. 2: Terminal connections|website=Edelrid|quote=min. 10 cm}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://sport.beal-planet.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=184590|title=Dynamic: Fig. 4|website=Beal ropes|quote=10 cm}}</ref><ref name=":2" /> The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "[[Yosemite National Park|Yosemite]] finish" or "Yosemite tuck".<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Fitch|first1=Nate|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JxuaCgAAQBAJ&q=%22yosemite+finish%22&pg=PA33|title=Climbing: Knots|last2=Funderburke|first2=Ron|date=2015|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=978-1-4930-1506-1|pages=33|language=en}}</ref> This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Figure-Eight Follow-Through|url=http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2015/07/the-figure-eight-follow-through.html|access-date=2020-06-13|website=American Alpine Institute|quote=may seriously weaken the knot if you use the inside of the knot as a belay loop}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Dahlberg|first=Robin|title=Cross load test of common climbing knots|url=https://vimeo.com/40767916|access-date=2020-06-10|website=Vimeo|at=0:36–1:45|language=en}}</ref> The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while [[lead climbing]].<ref name=":0" /> A well-dressed knot has a [[Point symmetry|symmetrical]] appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|title=The Well-Dressed Figure Eight Knot: Start Hard, Finish Easy|url=https://foxmountainguides.com/well-dressed-figure-eight-knot/|last=JB|date=2018-07-17|website=Fox Mountain Guides & Climbing School|language=en-US|access-date=2020-05-28}}</ref>
Edit summary
(Briefly describe your changes)
By publishing changes, you agree to the
Terms of Use
, and you irrevocably agree to release your contribution under the
CC BY-SA 4.0 License
and the
GFDL
. You agree that a hyperlink or URL is sufficient attribution under the Creative Commons license.
Cancel
Editing help
(opens in new window)