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==History== {{Main|History of Manila}} === Pre-Hispanic period === The strategic location of [[Manila]] along [[Manila Bay|the bay]] and at the mouth of the [[Pasig River]] made it an ideal location for the [[Tagalog people|Tagalog]] tribes and kingdoms to trade with merchants from what would be today's [[China]], [[India]], [[Borneo]], and [[Indonesia]]. The prehistoric polity of [[Maynila (historical polity)|Maynila]] was located where Intramuros would be built.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Welcome to Fort Santiago! {{!}} Intramuros Administration |url=https://intramuros.gov.ph/fs/ |access-date=2025-01-01 |language=en-US}}</ref> In 1564, [[conquistador|Spanish explorers]] led by [[Miguel López de Legazpi]] sailed from [[New Spain]], now Mexico, and arrived on the island of [[Cebu]] in April 1565, establishing the first [[Spanish East Indies|Spanish capitania in the Philippines]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Miguel López de Legazpi {{!}} Explorer, Conquistador, Colonizer {{!}} Britannica |url=https://www.britannica.com/biography/Miguel-Lopez-de-Legazpi |access-date=2025-01-01 |website=www.britannica.com |language=en}}</ref> Having heard from the natives about the rich resources in Maynila, Legazpi dispatched two of his lieutenant-commanders, [[Martín de Goiti]] and [[Juan de Salcedo]], to explore the island of Luzon. The Spaniards arrived on the island of [[Luzon]] in 1570. After quarrels and misunderstandings between the [[Muslim]] natives and the Spaniards, they fought for control of the land and settlements. After several months of warfare the natives were defeated, and the Spaniards made a peace pact with the councils of [[Rajah Sulaiman III]], [[Lakan Dula]], and [[Rajah Matanda]] who handed over the city to the Spaniards. ===Spanish colonial period (1571–1898)=== {{Further|History of the Philippines (1521–1898)}} [[File:Walled City of Manila, detail from Carta Hydrographica y Chorographica de las Yslas Filipinas (1734).jpg|thumb|A 1734 map of Intramuros, from the ''[[Carta Hydrographica y Chorographica de las Yslas Filipinas]]'']] Legazpi declared the area of Manila as the new capital of the Spanish colony on June 24, 1571, because of its strategic location and rich resources. He also proclaimed the [[sovereignty]] of the [[Monarchy of Spain]] over the [[Spanish Empire|whole archipelago]]. [[List of Spanish monarchs|King]] [[Philip II of Spain]] delighted at the new conquest achieved by Legazpi and his men, awarding the city a [[coat of arms]] and declaring it as: ''Ciudad Insigne y Siempre Leal'' ([[English language|English]]: "Distinguished and Ever Loyal City"). It was settled and became the political, military, and religious center of the [[Spanish Empire]] in Asia.[[File:Manila 1851.jpg|thumb|An 1851 map of Intramuros]]The city was in constant danger of natural and man-made disasters and worse, attacks from foreign invaders. In 1574, a fleet of Chinese pirates led by [[Limahong]] attacked the city and destroyed it before the Spaniards drove them away. The colony had to be rebuilt again by the survivors.<ref name="Vibal Publishing House">{{cite book|last1=Torres|first1=Jose Victor|title=Ciudad Murada, A Walk Through Historic Intramuros|year=2005|publisher=Vibal Publishing House|isbn=971-07-2276-X|pages=5}}</ref> These attacks prompted the construction of the wall. The city of stone began during the rule of [[Governor-General of the Philippines|Governor-General]] [[Santiago de Vera]].<ref name="R1903-435" /> The city was planned and executed by Jesuit Priest Antonio Sedeno<ref name="Vibal Publishing House" /> in accordance with the [[Laws of the Indies]] and was approved by [[List of Spanish monarchs|King]] [[Philip II of Spain|Philip II]]'s Royal Ordinance that was issued in [[San Lorenzo de El Escorial]], [[Spain]]. The succeeding [[Governor-General of the Philippines|governor-general]], [[Gómez Pérez Dasmariñas]] brought with him from Spain the royal instructions to carry into effect the said decree stating that "to enclose the city with stone and erect a suitable fort at the junction of the sea and river". Leonardo Iturriano, a Spanish military engineer specializing in fortifications, headed the project. Chinese and Filipino workers built the walls.[[File:Santa Lucia Gate, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, Late 19th or early 20th Century.jpg|thumb|333x333px|[[Gates of Intramuros#Puerta de Sta. Lucia|Puerta de Santa Lucía]] in 1873. ]]Fort Santiago was rebuilt and a circular fort, known as Nuestra Senora de Guia, was erected to defend the land and sea on the southwestern side of the city. Funds came from a monopoly on playing cards and fines imposed on its excessive play. Chinese goods were taxed for two years. Designed by Geronimo Tongco and Pedro Jusepe,<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://bluprint.onemega.com/mundo-ni-maestro-escolta/|title = Escolta Maestros: 6 Filipino architects who shaped the old CBD|date = April 16, 2018}}</ref> construction of the walls began on 1590 and continued under many [[Governor-General of the Philippines|governor-generals]] until 1872. By the middle of 1592, Dasmarinas wrote the King about the satisfactory development of the new walls and fortification.<ref name="ReferenceA">{{cite book|last1=Torres|first1=Jose Victor|title=Ciudad Murada, A Walk Through Historic Intramuros|year=2005|publisher=Vibal Publishing House|isbn=971-07-2276-X|pages=6}}</ref> Since the construction was carried on during different periods and often far apart, the walls were not built according to any uniform plan.<ref name="R1903-435">U.S. War Department 1903, p. 435.</ref> Improvements continued during the terms of the succeeding Governor-Generals. Governor-General [[Juan de Silva]] executed certain work on the fortifications in 1609 which was improved by [[Juan Niño de Tabora]] in 1626, and by [[Diego Fajardo Chacón]] in 1644. The erection of the ''[[Baluarte de San Diego]]'' was also completed that year, replacing the Nuestra Senora de Guia.<ref>[http://intramuros.ph/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=75 "Baluarte de San Diego"]. Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on November 13, 2011.</ref> This bastion, shaped like an "ace of spades" is the southernmost point of the wall and the first of the large bastions added to the encircling walls, then of no great height nor of finished construction.<ref>U.S. War Department 1903, p. 436.</ref> [[Ravelin]]s and ''[[Redoubt|reducto]]s'' were added to strengthen weak areas and serve as outer defenses. A moat was built around the city with the Pasig River serving as a natural barrier on one side. By the 18th century, the city was totally enclosed. The last construction works were completed by the start of the 19th century.<ref name="ReferenceA" /> [[File:View of Manila Philippines 1789-1794.png|center|thumb|938x938px|View of the walled city from across the [[Pasig River]] 1789-1794]] ====Inside colonial Intramuros==== [[File:Manila Cathedral (1792) by Brambila.jpg|thumb|A sketch of [[Plaza de Roma]] of Manila by Fernando Brambila, a member of the Malaspina Expedition during their stop in Manila in 1792]] The main square of the city of Manila was ''Plaza Mayor'' (later known as Plaza McKinley then ''[[Plaza de Roma]]'') in front of the [[Manila Cathedral]]. East of the plaza was the ''[[Ayuntamiento de Manila|Ayuntamiento]]'' (City Hall) and facing it was the [[Palacio del Gobernador]], the official residence of the [[Spanish Governor - Captain General of the Philippines|Spanish viceroyalties]] to the Philippines. An earthquake on June 3, 1863, destroyed the three buildings and much of the city. The residence of the Governor-General was moved to [[Malacañang Palace]] located about {{convert|3|km|abbr=on}} up on the Pasig River. The two previous buildings were later rebuilt but not the Governor's Palace. Inside the walls were other [[Catholic Church|Roman Catholic]] churches, the oldest being [[San Agustin Church (Manila)|San Agustin Church]] ([[Augustinians|Augustinian]]s) built in 1607. The other churches built by the different [[religious institute|religious orders]] – San Nicolas de Tolentino Church ([[Recollects]]), [[San Francisco Church (Manila)|San Francisco Church]] ([[Franciscans]]), [[Third Order of the Franciscans Church (Manila)|Third Venerable Order Church]] ([[Third Order of St. Francis]]), [[Santo Domingo Church (Quezon City)|Santo Domingo Church]] ([[Dominican Order|Dominican]]), [[National Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes|Lourdes Church]] ([[Order of Friars Minor Capuchin|Capuchins]]), and the [[San Ignacio Church (Manila)|San Ignacio Church]] ([[Jesuit]]s) – has made the small walled city the ''[[City of Churches]]''. Intramuros was the center of large educational institutions in the Philippines.<ref name="AFS" /> [[File:Intramuros Edifices, Manila, Philippines.jpg|thumb|493x493px|Street scene in Intramuros with its [[Bahay na bato]] edifices. late 19th century-early 20th century.]] Convents and church-run schools were established by the different [[Catholic religious order|religious orders]]. The Dominicans established the [[University of Santo Tomas|Universidad de Santo Tomás]] in 1611 and the [[Colegio de San Juan de Letran|Colegio de San Juan de Letrán]] in 1620. The Jesuits established the [[Universidad de San Ignacio]] in 1590, the first university in the Philippines. It closed in 1768, following the [[Suppression of the Society of Jesus|expulsion of the Jesuits]] in the Philippines. After the Jesuits were allowed to return to the Philippines, they established the [[Ateneo de Manila University|Ateneo Municipal de Manila]] in 1859.<ref name="Ateneo">[http://www.ateneo.edu/index.php?p=110 "History"]. Ateneo de Manila University. Retrieved on October 11, 2012.</ref> In the initial period of colonization, there were a total of 1,200 Spanish families living in the vicinity of Intramuros, 600 Spanish families within the walls and another 600 living in the suburbs outside Intramuros. In addition to this were about 400 Spanish soldiers garrisoned at the walled city.<ref>{{cite journal|url = http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38269/38269-h/38269-h.htm#pb139 |title = A History of the Philippines |last = Barrows |first = David |journal = Guttenburg Free Online E-books |year = 2014 |volume = 1 |page = 179 |quote = Within the walls, there were some six hundred houses of a private nature, most of them built of stone and tile, and an equal number outside in the suburbs, or “arrabales,” all occupied by Spaniards (“todos son vivienda y poblacion de los Españoles”). This gives some twelve hundred Spanish families or establishments, exclusive of the religious, who in Manila numbered at least one hundred and fifty, the garrison, at certain times, about four hundred trained Spanish soldiers who had seen service in Holland and the Low Countries, and the official classes.}}</ref> ===American period (1898–1946)=== [[File:Intramuros cannon.JPG|thumb|1902 photo taken by US military personnel showing Spanish artillery]][[File:Philippine Island - Manila - NARA - 68156589.jpg|thumb|Aerial view of the Walled City, 1939]]After the end of the [[Spanish–American War]], Spain surrendered the Philippines and several other territories to the United States as part of the terms of the [[Treaty of Paris (1898)|Treaty of Paris]] for $20 million. The American flag was raised at [[Fort Santiago]] on August 13, 1898, indicating the start of American rule over the city.{{cn|date=May 2025}} The Ayuntamiento became the seat of the [[Philippine Commission]] of the United States in 1901. Fort Santiago became the headquarters of the Philippine Division of the [[United States Army]].{{cn|date=May 2025}} [[File:Santo Tomas walled city Philippines.jpg|thumb|313x313px|Plaza de Santo Tomas]] The Americans made drastic changes to Manila, such as in 1903, when the walls from the Santo Domingo Gate up to the Almacenes Gate were removed as the wharf on the southern bank of the [[Pasig River]] was improved.{{cn|date=May 2025}} The stones removed were used for other construction happening around the city.{{cn|date=May 2025}} The walls were breached in four areas to ease access to the city: the southwestern end of ''Calle Aduana'' (now Andres Soriano Jr. Ave.); the eastern end of ''Calle Anda''; the northeastern end of ''Calle Victoria'' (previously known as ''Calle de la Escuela''); and the southeastern end of ''Calle Palacio'' (now General Luna Street).{{cn|date=May 2025}} The double moats that surrounded Intramuros were deemed unsanitary and were filled in with mud dredged from [[Manila Bay]], where the present [[Port of Manila]] is now located. The moats were transformed into a municipal golf course by the city.{{cn|date=May 2025}} Reclamations for the construction of the Port of Manila, the [[Manila Hotel]], and [[Rizal Park]] obscured the old walls and skyline of the city from [[Manila Bay]].<ref>City of Manila. [https://archive.org/details/annualreport31boargoog "Annual Report of the City of Manila, 1905"], p.71. Manila Bureau of Printing.</ref> The Americans also founded the first school under the new government, the [[Manila High School (Intramuros)|Manila High School]], on June 11, 1906, along Victoria Street.<ref>[http://www.hmdb.org/marker.asp?marker=25235 "Manila High School"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160826005909/http://www.hmdb.org/marker.asp?marker=25235 |date=August 26, 2016 }}. The Historical Marker Database. Retrieved on October 11, 2012.</ref> In 1936, Commonwealth Act No. 171 was passed requiring that all future buildings to be constructed in Intramuros adopt Spanish colonial type architecture. ====World War II and Japanese occupation==== In December 1941, the [[Imperial Japanese Army]] [[Philippines campaign (1941–1942)|invaded the Philippines]]. The first casualties in Intramuros were the destruction of [[Santo Domingo Church]] and the original [[University of Santo Tomas]] campus during an assault. The whole city of Manila was declared by General [[Douglas MacArthur]] as an [[open city]] as Manila was indefensible. In January 1945, the battle for the [[Battle of Manila (1945)|liberation of Manila]] began when American troops returned. Intense urban fighting occurred between the combined American and Filipino troops under the [[United States Army]] and [[Philippine Commonwealth Army]] including recognized [[guerrillas]], against the 30,000 Japanese defenders. As the battle continued, both sides inflicted heavy damage on the city culminating with the [[Manila massacre]] by Japanese troops.<ref name="On Law & Country">Ramsey, Russell Wilcox (1993). [https://books.google.com/books?id=TD1mNmgB2DoC "On Law & Country"], pg. 41. Braden Publishing Company, Boston.</ref> The Imperial Japanese Army was pushed back, eventually retreating into the Intramuros district. General MacArthur, though opposed to the bombing of the walled city, approved heavy shelling, which resulted in deaths of over 16,665 Japanese within Intramuros.<ref name="On Law & Country"/> Two of the eight gates of Intramuros were badly damaged by American tanks. The bombings levelled most of Intramuros, leaving only 5% of the city structures. 40% of the walls were destroyed in the bombings.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.paclas.org.ph/article_intramuros.pdf |title=A SHORT HISTORY AND GUIDE TO INTRAMUROS |author=Esperanza Bunag Gatbonton |publisher=Philippine Academic Consortium for Latin American Studies |access-date=December 23, 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131224094931/http://www.paclas.org.ph/article_intramuros.pdf |archive-date=December 24, 2013 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name="The Sack of Manila">{{cite web|url=http://www.battlingbastardsbataan.com/som.htm |title=The Sack of Manila |publisher=The Battling Bastards of Bataan (battlingbastardsbataan.com) |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100820081703/http://www.battlingbastardsbataan.com/som.htm |archive-date=August 20, 2010 |access-date=August 7, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Over 100,000 Filipino men, women and children died from February 3 to March 3, 1945, during the [[Battle of Manila (1945)|Battle of Manila]]. At the end of World War II, all of the buildings and structures in Intramuros were destroyed, with only the damaged [[San Agustin Church, Manila|San Agustin Church]] still standing.<ref name="The Sack of Manila"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.palhbooks.com/escoda.htm |title=Genocide in Manila |first=Miguel A. |last=Bernad |publisher=Philippine American Literary House (palhbooks.com) |location=California, USA |at=PALH Book |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100619182136/http://www.palhbooks.com/escoda.htm |archive-date=June 19, 2010 |access-date=August 7, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://archive.arabnews.com/?page=7§ion=0&article=91871&d=7&m=2&y=2007&pix=opinion.jpg&category=Opinion |title=The Warsaw of Asia: How Manila was Flattened in WWII |first=Manuel L. |last=Quezon III |author-link=Manuel L. Quezon III |date=February 7, 2007 |publisher=Arab News Online (archive.arabnews.com) |location=Jeddah, Saudi Arabia |at=Opinion |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120330181428/http://archive.arabnews.com/?page=7§ion=0&article=91871&d=7&m=2&y=2007&pix=opinion.jpg&category=Opinion |archive-date=March 30, 2012 |url-status=dead |access-date=August 7, 2010}}</ref> ===Contemporary period (1946–present)=== [[File:Ayuntameinto de Manila.JPG|thumb|[[Ayuntamiento de Manila]]]] [[File:Intramuros and South Harbor (top shot) (Manila)(2018-02-07).jpg|thumb|Intramuros and South Harbor in 2018]] [[File:The Bayleaf, a hotel in Intramuros, Manila.jpg|thumb|The Bayleaf Intramuros Hotel is an example of [[adaptive reuse]] of postwar buildings in the area.]] In 1951, Intramuros was declared a historical monument and Fort Santiago, a national shrine with Republic Act 597, with the policy of restoring, reconstructing, and urban planning of Intramuros. In 1956, Republic Act 1607 declared Intramuros a "commercial, residential and educational district", opening up the district to development disregarding the historicity of the area. The same law also repealed Commonwealth Act No. 171 and Republic Act No. 597. Several laws and decrees also followed but results were deemed unsatisfactory due to limited funds.<ref>[http://intramuros.ph/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=117&Itemid=106 "History of Intramuros"]. Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on September 14, 2011.</ref> In 1979, the [[Intramuros Administration]] (IA) was created by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 1616, signed by [[Presidents of the Philippines|President]] [[Ferdinand Marcos]] on April 10 of that year.<ref>[http://www.lawphil.net/statutes/presdecs/pd1979/pd_1616_1979.html "Presidential Decree no. 1616"]. The LawPhil Project. Retrieved on April 4, 2012.</ref> Since then, the IA has been slowly restoring the walls, the sub-features of the fortification, and the city within. The remaining five original gates have been restored or rebuilt: Isabel II Gate, Parian Gate, Real Gate, Santa Lucía Gate and the Postigo Gate. The entrances made by the Americans by breaching the walls at four locations are now spanned by walkways thereby creating a connection, seamless in design and character to the original walls. Buildings destroyed during the war were subsequently rebuilt: [[Manila Cathedral]] was rebuilt and was opened to the public in 1958, [[Ayuntamiento de Manila]] was rebuilt in 2013, while the [[San Ignacio Church (Manila)|San Ignacio Church and Convent]] is currently being reconstructed as the [[Museo de Intramuros]]. In January 2015, during [[Pope Francis's visit to the Philippines]], he led a mass at the Manila Cathedral that was attended by an estimated 2,000 bishops, priests and religious leaders of the Philippine Catholic Church.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://news.abs-cbn.com/nation/metro-manila/12/06/14/manila-cathedral-basilica-popes |title=Manila Cathedral: The basilica of popes |work=ABS-CBN News|author=Pedrasa, Ira |date=December 6, 2014 |access-date=April 6, 2019 }}</ref> Anthology, an annual 3-day festival about architecture and design, was first launched in June 2016 at Intramuros. Since then, it has been renting [[Fort Santiago]] as a venue where seminars and other activities were held, with guest speakers from local and international people from the field of architecture and design.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.wtadesignstudio.com/anthology |title=Anthology: Stories About Architecture |publisher=WTA Architecture + Design Studio |access-date=April 6, 2019 }}</ref> It is made possible through the partnership of WTA Architecture + Design Studio and the Intramuros Administration, who are also responsible for the critically acclaimed the [[Book Stop Intramuros]] located in Plaza Roma. The [[Department of Tourism (Philippines)|Department of Tourism]] along with the [[Intramuros Administration]] launched the first major project of the newly created Faith Sector that focuses on the historic and cultural religious wealth of the Walled City. For the 2018 lenten season, seven religious destinations can be visited. For the first time since World War II, ''[[Seven Churches Visitation|Visita Iglesia]]'' is once again possible in Intramuros. The seven destinations are the [[Manila Cathedral]], [[San Agustin Church (Manila)|San Agustin Church]], [[San Ignacio Church (Manila)|San Ignacio Church]], Guadalupe Shrine in [[Fort Santiago]], Knights of Columbus Fr. Willman Chapel, [[Lyceum of the Philippines University]] Chapel, and the [[Mapua University]] Chapel. The event pays homage to the original seven churches during the prewar Intramuros.<ref>{{cite news |work=GMA News|url=http://www.gmanetwork.com/news/lifestyle/artandculture/646828/seven-stops-for-visita-iglesia-in-intramuros-open-for-the-first-time-since-wwii/story/#undefined.uxfs |title=Seven stops for Visita Iglesia in Intramuros open for the first time since WWII |publisher=[[GMA News and Public Affairs|GMA News Online]] |author=Tantiangco, Aya |date=March 16, 2018 |access-date=March 20, 2018 }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.pna.gov.ph/articles/1028837 |title=3 big Lenten events lined up in Intramuros |work=Philippine News Agency|author=Rocamora, Joyce Ann L. |date=March 15, 2018 |access-date=March 20, 2018 }}</ref> The 2018 lenten season event draws Infinite People from both foreign and local tourists in Intramuros.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://businessmirror.com.ph/intramuros-welcomed-1-million-catholic-faithful-during-holy-week/ |title=Intramuros welcomed 1 million Catholic faithful during Holy Week |work=BusinessMirror|author=Arnaldo, Ma. Stella F. |date=April 3, 2018 |access-date=April 4, 2018 }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://news.abs-cbn.com/trending/04/02/18/faith-tourism-1-million-people-visited-intramuros-during-holy-week |title=Faith tourism: 1 million people visited Intramuros during Holy Week |work=ABS-CBN News|date=April 2, 2018 |access-date=April 4, 2018 }}</ref> The Intramuros Administration, together with the Royal Danish Embassy in Manila, and Felta Multimedia, Inc., opened the iMake History Fortress at the Baluarte de Santa Barbara in Fort Santiago last March 19, 2018. The facility is the first history-based [[Lego]] education center in the world.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://intramuros.gov.ph/imake-history-fortress-lego-education-center-opens-in-intramuros/ |title=iMake History Fortress LEGO Education Center opens in Intramuros |publisher=[[Intramuros Administration]] |access-date=April 26, 2018 }}</ref> The [[COVID-19 pandemic]] in March 2020 caused the [[Intramuros Administration]] to temporarily close several sites within Intramuros including [[Fort Santiago]], [[Museo de Intramuros]], and [[Casa Manila]].<ref>{{Cite news |title=Rizal Park, Intramuros sites temporarily closed amid COVID-19 spread |language=en-US |work=Manila Bulletin |url=https://news.mb.com.ph/2020/03/13/rizal-park-intramuros-sites-temporarily-closed-amid-covid-19-spread |access-date=March 16, 2020 |archive-date=April 11, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200411001415/https://news.mb.com.ph/2020/03/13/rizal-park-intramuros-sites-temporarily-closed-amid-covid-19-spread/ |url-status=dead }}</ref>
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