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New Romantic
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==Characteristics== The New Romantic movement is sometimes characterized as a reaction to the direction in which the [[punk rock]] movement was evolving,<ref name=Borthwick&Moy2004p132>{{cite book|first1=Stuart|last1=Borthwick|first2=Rob|last2=Moy|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=r4bmVbNSnk4C&q=%22new+romantic%22+duran&pg=PA132|title=Popular Music Genres: an Introduction|publisher=[[Edinburgh University Press]]|location=Edinburgh, Scotland|date=2004|isbn=0-7486-1745-0|page=132}}</ref> and was heavily influenced by former [[glam rock]] stars of the 1970s such as [[David Bowie]] and [[Roxy Music]].<ref name=Buckley2005p318>{{cite book|first=David|last=Buckley|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZwzbCdn9zc0C&q=%22new+romantic%22+%22glam+rock%22&pg=RA4-PA114|title=Strange Fascination: David Bowie, the Definitive Story|publisher=[[Random House]]|location=London |date=2005|isbn=0-7535-1002-2|page=318}}</ref> In terms of style, it rejected the austerity and anti-fashion stance which was becoming increasingly predominant in punk.<ref>{{cite book|first=Richard|last=Evans|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2mDnc4apw_0C&q=%22new+romantic%22+blitz&pg=PA16|title=Remember the 80s: Now That's What I Call Nostagia!|publisher=[[Anova Books]] |location=London |date=2009|isbn=978-1-906032-12-8|page=16}}</ref> Both sexes often dressed in [[androgyny|androgynous]] clothing and wore cosmetics such as eyeliner and lipstick, partly derived from earlier punk fashions.<ref name=Steer2009p.37/> This [[gender bending]] was particularly evident in figures such as [[Boy George]] of [[Culture Club]], and [[Marilyn (singer)|Marilyn]] (Peter Robinson).<ref name=Borthwick&Moy2004p132/> Fashion was based on varied looks inspired by [[Romanticism|historical Romantic themes]], including frilly [[fop]] [[Poet shirt|shirts]] in the style of the English [[Romanticism|Romantic]] period,<ref name=Steer2009p.37>{{cite book|first=Deirdre Clancy|last=Steer|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cgU5OQuHTRcC&q=androgyny+%22new+romantic%22&pg=PA37|title=The 1980s and 1990s|publisher=[[Infobase Publishing]]|location=New York City|date=2009|isbn=978-1-60413-386-8|page=37}}</ref> [[Russian constructivism]], [[Charles Edward Stuart|Bonnie Prince Charlie]], French [[Incroyables and Merveilleuses|Incroyables]] and 1930s' [[Cabaret]], Hollywood starlets, [[Puritan]]s and the [[Pierrot]] clown, with any look being possible if it was adapted to be unusual and striking.<ref name=Steele2010p525>{{cite book|editor-first=Valerie|editor-last=Steele|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&q=new+romantic+fashion&pg=PA525|title=The Berg Companion to Fashion|publisher=Berg Publishers |location=London |date=2010|isbn=978-1-84788-592-0|page=525}}</ref> Common hairstyles included [[quiff]]s,<ref name=Steele2010p525/> [[Mullet (haircut)|mullets]] and wedges.<ref name=Borthwick&Moy2004p132/> However, soon after they began to gain mainstream attention, many bands associated with the New Romantic scene dropped the eclectic clothes and make-up in favour of sharp suits. [[File:Bow Wow Wow 1982 Berlin.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Annabella Lwin]] of Bow Wow Wow wearing a squiggle print shirt from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's 1981 ''Pirate'' collection]] New Romantic looks were propagated from fashion designers Jane Kahn and Patti Bell in Birmingham<ref name="nuns">{{cite news|title=Kahn and Bell Shop|url=http://www.theblitzkids.com/site_archive/barbarellas_club/bkshop.html|work=New Sounds New Styles|year=1981|access-date=7 December 2018}}</ref> and Helen Robinson's Covent Garden shop PX,<ref name="Johnson2009"/> began to influence major collections and were spread, with a delay, through reviews of what was being worn in clubs via magazines including ''[[i-D]]'' and ''[[The Face (magazine)|The Face]]''.<ref name=Steele2010p525/> The emergence of the New Romantic movement into the mainstream coincided with [[Vivienne Westwood]]'s unveiling of her "pirate collection", which was promoted by [[Bow Wow Wow]] and [[Adam and the Ants]], who were managed by her then-partner [[Malcolm McLaren]].<ref>{{cite book|first=Robert|last=O'Byrne|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BpOn6lJ68OkC&q=vivienne+westwood+new+romantic&pg=PA77|title=Style City: How London Became a Fashion Capital|publisher=Frances Lincoln Ltd.|location=London |date=2009|isbn=978-0-7112-2895-5|page=77}}</ref> While some contemporary bands, particularly those of the predominantly Midlands-based [[Two-tone (music genre)|2 tone]] [[ska]] revival ([[the Specials]], [[the Selecter]], [[The Beat (British band)|the Beat]]) who wrote lyrics addressing social issues such as unemployment and [[urban decay]], the New Romantics adopted an escapist and aspirational stance.<ref name=Reynolds2005p326&410>{{cite book|first=Simon|last=Reynolds|title=Rip It Up and Start Again Postpunk 1978β1984|publisher=[[Faber and Faber]] |location=London |date=2005|isbn=0-571-21570-X|pages=326 and 410}}</ref> With its interest in design, marketing and image, the movement has been seen by some as an acceptance of [[Thatcherism]]; style commentator [[Peter York]] even suggested that it was aligned with the [[New Right]].<ref name=Borthwick&Moy2004p124>{{cite book|first1=Stuart|last1=Borthwick|first2=Roy|last2=Moy|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=r4bmVbNSnk4C&q=%22new+romantic%22+duran&pg=PA132|title=Popular Music Genres: an Introduction|publisher=[[Edinburgh University Press]]|location=Edinburgh, Scotland|date=2004|isbn=0-7486-1745-0|page=124}}</ref>
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