Editing Next plc (section)

==History==
===Hepworth===
The company was founded by [[Joseph Hepworth (tailor)|Joseph Hepworth]] in [[Leeds]] in 1864 as a tailor under the name of '''Joseph Hepworth & Son'''.<ref name="history">{{cite web|url=http://www.nextplc.co.uk/nextplc/aboutnext/ourhistory/ |title=Next history |publisher=Nextplc.co.uk |access-date=12 October 2010}}</ref> Initially Hepworth was in partnership with James Rhodes, but the partnership was dissolved in 1872.<ref>The London Gazette, 9 July 1872, p.3121</ref>

On his own, Hepworth expanded the company rapidly, becoming a pioneer of the development of chain stores in Britain. By 1884 the company had 100 outlets.<ref>John Timpson, ''High Street Heroes: The Story of British Retail in 50 People'' (London: Icon Books, 2015)</ref>

For much of its history Hepworth was predominantly in the ready-to-wear suit market.<ref>{{cite book |first=Laura |last=Ugolini |title=Men and Menswear: Sartorial Consumption in Britain 1880-1939 |location=Aldershot |publisher=Ashgate |date=2007 |page=193 |isbn=978-0754603849}}</ref> In 1963, the company brought in the celebrated Savile Row designer [[Hardy Amies]] to help revitalise its ready-to-wear suit collection.<ref>Alison Adbergham, "View of Fashion", ''[[The Guardian]]'', 8 October 1963, p. 8</ref>

===Kendall's and Next===
In 1981, the company bought womenswear retailer [[Kendall & Sons]] for £1.75 million from the retail conglomerate Combined English Stores. This gave Hepworth over 600 shops in British high streets.<ref>Rosemary Unworth, "Hepworth Buys CES Offshoot", ''[[The Times]]'', 12 May 1981, p. 18</ref>

The intention was to redevelop Kendall's stores as a womenswear chain of shops to complement Hepworth as a chain of menswear stores. Designer [[Terence Conran]] was Chairman of Hepworth at that time, and recruited [[George Davies (retailer)|George Davies]] to work at Kendall's. However, Davies's concept was to create a new chain, called Next, initially by converting Kendall's stores. The first Next shops opened on 12 February 1982, with the Kendall's conversion complete by the end of 1983.<ref name="history" />

[[File:Next - Oxford Street 1.jpg|thumb|left|A branch of Next showing the old logos on [[Oxford Street]] in London in 2005]]
Appointed chief executive in 1984, Davies then converted 50 Hepworth stores to the Next format, extending the range to cover menswear. This allowed the development of mini department stores selling women's and men's clothes. This was added to by the introduction of Next interiors to stores which were deemed in the "right demographical areas." In 1986, Davies moved the group's headquarters from Leeds to [[Leicester]], to be closer to the main garment manufacturers, and the company name was changed to Next plc.<ref name="history" />

In 1987, the group acquired Combined English Stores and the Grattan catalogue company. Extending first to introduce Next childrenswear, Davies then introduced the Next Directory.<ref>{{Cite news| url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/5330512/Woodstock-theme-for-21st-Anniversary-of-Next-Directory.html | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090521140819/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/5330512/Woodstock-theme-for-21st-Anniversary-of-Next-Directory.html | url-status=dead | archive-date=21 May 2009 | location=London | work=The Daily Telegraph | title=Woodstock theme for 21st Anniversary of Next Directory | first=Hilary | last=Alexander | date=15 May 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thecatalogshop.co.uk/nextdirectory1990.php |title=Next Directory – a background history on Next |publisher=Thecatalogshop.co.uk |access-date=12 October 2010}}</ref>

By 1988, "after seven years of growth, Next had over-expanded suicidally" .. "some stores were not bringing in enough to pay the rent."<ref name="indy">{{Cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/return-of-the-fashion-maverick-1577671.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220618/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/return-of-the-fashion-maverick-1577671.html |archive-date=18 June 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |title=Return of the fashion maverick|work=The Independent |location=UK |date=15 October 1995 |access-date=12 October 2010  | first=George | last=Davies}}</ref> Davies was sacked and the share price fell to 7p.<ref name="indy" /> Chairman Sir David Jones accused Davies of being egotistical and taking Next to the verge of bankruptcy.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/7783020/George-Davis-to-open-60-branch-chain-in-Gulf.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/7783020/George-Davis-to-open-60-branch-chain-in-Gulf.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=George Davis to open 60-branch chain in Gulf|work=Daily Telegraph |location=UK |date=30 May 2010|access-date=30 May 2010  | first=Andrew | last=Cave}}{{cbignore}}</ref>

[[File:Manchester Arndale Corporation Street Withy Grove.jpg|thumb|Next at [[Manchester Arndale]]]]
[[File:Christmas decorations, Trinity Leeds (21st December 2015) 003.JPG|thumb|Next at [[Trinity Leeds]]]]
In October 1988, Next sold 433 jewellery stores in the United Kingdom, which principally traded under the Salisburys and Zales brands, to the [[Signet Jewelers|Ratners Group]] for US$232 million.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1988/10/12/business/company-news-next-plc-to-sell-stores-to-ratners.html |title=Next P.L.C. to Sell Stores to Ratners |access-date=20 April 2013 |newspaper=[[The New York Times]] |date=12 October 1988}}</ref>

The company bought the youth brand [[Lipsy Ltd.|Lipsy]] in 2008.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/2008/oct/03/next.retail |title=Next splashes £17m on youth brand Lipsy |website=[[TheGuardian.com]] |date=3 October 2008 |access-date=25 November 2012}}</ref> In autumn 2009, Next launched an online catalogue for the United States offering clothing, shoes and accessories for women, men and children.<ref name="direct">{{cite web |url=http://www.nextdirect.com/ |title=Next Direct |publisher=Next Direct |access-date=12 October 2010}}</ref>

Next's prices in Ireland attracted criticism in 2009 when the company was one of four retailers accused of failing to pass on exchange rate savings to shoppers in the Republic.<ref name="IT">{{cite news |url=http://www.irishtimes.com/blogs/pricewatch/2009/01/12/price-is-still-not-right/ |title=Price is still not right |newspaper=[[The Irish Times]] |date=12 January 2009 |access-date=12 October 2010}}</ref>

In July 2010, a [[BBC]] investigation found Next was breaking the [[Consumer Protection (Distance Selling) Regulations 2000]] by billing customers for its delivery costs even if goods were returned within the seven working days.<ref name="law">{{cite news |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10560466 |publisher=BBC News |title=Next breaks refund rules for online deliveries |author=Susannah Streeter |date=9 July 2010 |access-date=30 August 2010}}</ref> A spokesman for Next admitted that they had been doing this for three years but promised to comply by August 2010.<ref name="law" /> [[Trading Standards]] said that the DSRs had been in force for ten years, and there was no excuse for not adhering to them.<ref name="law" />

In 2014, Next launched localised cross-border sales to [[Ukraine]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://uadn.net/2014/11/20/uk-fashion-retailer-next-launches-localized-cross-border-sales-to-ukraine/ |title=UK fashion retailer Next launches localized cross-border sales to Ukraine |date=20 November 2014 |access-date=26 March 2016}}</ref>

===Wages controversy===
In May 2014, the [[Living Wage Foundation]] bought Next shares and attended the annual general meeting in an attempt to persuade the company to pay at least £7.65 and become one of the UK's 700 living wage employers. Next was targeted because it claimed to be a good employer and was thriving. Professor Sir [[George Bain (academic)|George Bain]], who set the minimum wage in 1999, said employers could afford to pay much more but acknowledged enforcement could cause unemployment in the retail sector.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leicestershire-27431336 |title=Living Wage Foundation buys Next shares and protests at meeting |publisher=BBC News |date=15 May 2014 |access-date=10 March 2015}}</ref>

In October 2014, the company was one of several retailers criticised by journalist [[Janice Turner]] in ''[[The Times]]'' for failing to pay what she described as a living wage. Turner further argued UK taxpayers pay £28&nbsp;billion to low-paid workers through [[tax credits]], and retail companies – which have the highest proportion of low paid workers – are exploiting austerity and effectively adding staff wages to the UK welfare bill. When asked to explain the salaries of lower-wage workers despite large profits, a Next spokesperson replied that the company had thirty applicants for every job advertised.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.thetimes.com/business-money/companies/article/dont-make-me-pay-your-staff-sainsburys-p78p3fcl07n |title=Don't make me pay your staff, Sainsbury's |author=Janice Turner |work=The Times |date=4 October 2014 |access-date=19 October 2014}}</ref>
[[File:Pro-Palestine Demonstration in Exeter Feb 10 2024 Boycott Next.jpg|thumb|right|[[Gaza war protests|Pro-Palestinian protest]] outside Next on 10 February 2024]]

===Recent history===
In September 2018, the company's Irish operations profits were separated from Next plc.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.rte.ie/news/business/2018/0925/995928-next/ |title=Next creates Irish firm as part of no-deal Brexit plan |date=25 September 2018 |publisher=[[RTÉ]]}}</ref> Next (Ireland) Ltd was formally established to focus on the distribution of products in its physical stores and its online store in the Republic of Ireland. At the same time Next Germany was established.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.irishtimes.com/business/retail-and-services/next-sets-up-new-irish-company-to-avoid-brexit-customs-and-duties-1.3640687 |title=Next sets up new Irish company to avoid Brexit customs and duties |first=Fiona |last=Reddan |newspaper=The Irish Times}}</ref>

In November 2022, it was announced Next had acquired the [[London]]-headquartered furniture retailer, [[Made.com]] - which (in the same month) had gone into [[Administration (law)|administration]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Roberts |first=Lauretta |date=2022-11-09 |title=NEXT acquires collapsed furniture retailer Made.com |url=https://www.theindustry.fashion/next-acquires-collapsed-furniture-retailer-made-com/ |access-date=2022-11-09 |website=TheIndustry.fashion |language=en-GB}}</ref>

In December 2022, the company entered into a joint venture with Tom Joule to buy The Joules Group out of administration for £34 million.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/dec/01/next-picks-up-collapsed-fashion-chain-joules-from-administration|title=Next rescues Joules from administration, saving 100 shops and 1,450 jobs |newspaper=The Guardian |date=1 December 2022|access-date=6 December 2022}}</ref> Tom Joule retained 26% of the equity in the business.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Eley |first=Jonathan |date=2022-12-01 |title=Next buys Joules out of administration for £34mn |work=Financial Times |url=https://www.ft.com/content/ff294222-3838-4b43-93dd-4019f6b443f2 |access-date=2023-08-23}}</ref> 

In March 2023, it was announced Next had acquired vintage fashion and homeware retailer [[Cath Kidston Limited|Cath Kidston]] out of administration for £8.5 million.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.thetimes.com/business-money/economics/article/cath-kidston-bagged-by-next-for-8-5m-dp56zrsx5|title=Cath Kidston bagged by Next for £8.5m|first=Helen|last=Cahill|date=28 March 2023 |via=www.thetimes.co.uk}}</ref> The acquisition meant Next had bought the brand name, domain names and intellectual property, but remaining stock was to be sold off by administrators and the four Cath Kidston stores (London, York, Ashford, Cheshire Oaks) were to shut.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://news.sky.com/story/next-snaps-up-another-struggling-retailer-as-it-pays-8-5m-for-cath-kidston-12844329|title=Next buys Cath Kidston for £8.5m - resulting in job cuts |newspaper=Sky News |date=28 March 2023|access-date=28 March 2023}}</ref>

The company makes use of [[Uyghurs|Uyghur]] [[Xinjiang internment camps|forced labour]] provided by the [[China]]-based supplier, Beijing Guanghua Textile Group, according to research of the Helena Kennedy Center for International Justice, the [[Progressive Alliance of Socialists and Democrats|socialists and democrats in the European Parliament]] and further institutions published in December 2023. <ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.shu.ac.uk/-/media/home/research/helena-kennedy-centre/projects/eu-apparel/eu-tailoring-responsibility-february-24.pdf |title=Tailoring Responsibility: Tracing Apparel Supply Chains from the Uyghur Region to Europe |date=December 2023 |publisher=Uyghur Rights Monitor, the Helena Kennedy Centre for International Justice at Sheffield Hallam University, and the Uyghur Center for Democracy and Human Rights |year=2023 |pages=20 |language=En}}</ref>