Editing Savile Row (section)

== History ==
[[File:Savile Street by Horwood 1819.jpg|thumb|Savile Row (then called Saville Street) as shown on Richard Horwood's 1819 map of London]]

The first house in what would become Savile Row was "a fine House and Ground",<ref>{{cite book |first=John|last=Strype |title=A Survey of the Cities of London and Westminster: Volume 2 |publisher=T. Read |year=1720 |page=84 |chapter= chapter 6}}</ref> built in 1674 on the site of what is now No. 1, and occupied by a series of [[Nobility|nobles]] until it was demolished in 1730 in preparation for the laying out of the houses on the east of Savile Row in 1731.<ref name=Sheppard/> Savile Row was built between 1731 and 1735, on [[Freehold (law)|freehold land]] known as Ten Acres belonging to a merchant tailor, William Maddox,<ref>{{cite book|url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=41485|title=Cork Street and Savile Row Area: Introduction, Survey of London: Volumes 31 and 32|author=F. H. W. Sheppard|date=1963|via= British History Online |publisher=London County Council|page=442}}</ref> as part of the development of the [[Burlington Estate]], and is named after [[Dorothy Savile, Countess of Burlington and Countess of Cork|Lady Dorothy Savile]], wife of the [[Richard Boyle, 3rd Earl of Burlington|3rd Earl of Burlington]].<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OgQ4AAAAIAAJ&pg=PA128 |title=The Early History of Piccadilly, Leicester Square, Soho, & Their Neighbourhood |author=Charles Lethbridge Kingsford |page=128 |year=1925|author-link=Charles Lethbridge Kingsford }}</ref> Maddox's land, consisting mainly of fruit and other trees covering what would become Savile Row and the streets around, some of which is still owned by his descendants as the Pollen Estate.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thepollenestate.com/pe.aspx?doc=36069 |title=The Pollen Estate – History |publisher=The Pollen Estate |access-date=13 March 2013  |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130525224025/http://www.thepollenestate.com/pe.aspx?doc=36069 |archive-date=25 May 2013 }}</ref><ref name="Sheppard 1963 442–455"/> When initially laid out – under the name Saville Street – Savile Row ran from Burlington Gardens (then Vigo Lane) to Boyle Street, with houses only on the east side, but in the 19th century, houses were built on the west side.<ref name=London>{{cite book |title=The London Encyclopaedia |author=Ben Weinreb |author2=[[Christopher Hibbert]] |year=1983 |publisher=Macmillan  |page=772|title-link=The London Encyclopaedia }}</ref>

===Nineteenth century===
Initially, the street was occupied by military officers and their wives, along with politicians: [[William Pitt the Younger]] wrote letters from the street when it was called Savile Street;<ref>{{cite book |first=Anne|last=Manning |title=The Journey from Blandford to Hayes: The Life and Times of Two Prime Ministers, William Pitt (Earl of Chatham) and William Pitt the Younger |publisher=Bromley Leisure & Community Services |date=12 January 2009 |page=72}}</ref> Irish-born playwright and MP, [[Richard Brinsley Sheridan]] lived at 14 Savile Row in 1813–1816, till his death.<ref>{{cite book |title=Indication of Houses of Historical Interest in London: Volume 4 |author=P.S. King |page=88 |publisher=Jas. Truscott Press / London County Council|date=1928}}</ref> [[Jules Verne]] had [[Phileas Fogg]], his lead character in ''[[Around the World in Eighty Days]]'', live at 7 Savile Row – a "fashionable address" and "the former home of [[Richard Brinsley Sheridan|Sheridan]]".<ref>{{cite book |url=https://archive.org/details/legacyofempirejo0000glin|url-access=registration|title=Legacy of Empire: A Journey Through British Society |first=Werner|last=Glinga |page=[https://archive.org/details/legacyofempirejo0000glin/page/27 27] |publisher=Manchester University Press |year=1986 |isbn=978-0-7190-2272-2}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-cDaIELSXtgC&pg=PT185 |title=A Room of His Own: A Literary-Cultural Study of Victorian Clubland |page=175 |first=Barbara|last=Black |publisher=Ohio University Press |date=20 November 2012|isbn=978-0-8214-4435-1}}</ref> It may have been the affluent and influential nature of the residents of Savile Row that first attracted dealers in luxury goods to the area.<ref name=Berg>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA617 |title=The Berg Companion to Fashion |pages=617–618 |first=Valerie|last=Steele |publisher=Berg |date=15 November 2010|isbn=978-1-84788-592-0}}</ref>

Tailors started to take premises around Savile Row in the late 18th century, first in [[Cork Street]], about 1790, then by 1803 in Savile Row itself.<ref name="Sheppard 1963 442–455" /> In 1846, [[Henry Poole & Co|Henry Poole]], credited as creator of the [[dinner jacket]] or tuxedo,<ref name="NYT" /> opened an entrance at 37 Savile Row from his late father's tailoring premises at 4 Old Burlington Street.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://henrypoole.com/history/the-story/the-past/|title=The Story|publisher=henrypoole.com|access-date=21 May 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150116021500/https://henrypoole.com/history/the-story/the-past/|archive-date=16 January 2015}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=41491&strquery=#s2|title=Survey of London: Volumes 31 and 32: St James Westminster, Part 2|author=F. H. W. Sheppard|via=British History Online |publisher=London County Council|pages=495–517|date=1963}}</ref> As tailoring moved into the street, the house frontages were altered to bring natural light into the tailors' working area with the addition of glass frontages and [[lightwell]]s.<ref name=SPA /> The houses have been much altered over time; the original Burlingtonian design has been mostly lost, though No. 14 still retains much of the original external features.<ref name=Sheppard />

===Royal Geographical Society===
The [[Royal Geographical Society]] occupied No. 1 from 1870 to 1912, from where significant British exploration was planned, including into Asia, Africa, and the [[South Pole]]; and, according to the society, the address "became associated with adventure and travel".<ref name=Sheppard/><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rgs.org/nr/rdonlyres/53ac53b8-ef0a-4129-a97a-dbdd83eb59ec/0/historyofthesocietypdf.pdf |title=Royal Geographical Society – History of the Society |access-date=13 March 2013 |publisher=Royal Geographical Society}}</ref> [[David Livingstone]] was laid out in state at the society's headquarters, before being buried in [[Westminster Abbey]].<ref>{{cite journal |year=1873–1874 |title=Report to the Council on the Arrangements for the Funeral of Dr. Livingstone |journal=Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London |volume=18 |issue=4 |pages=445–450 |jstor= 1799748|doi=10.2307/1799748 |last1=Livingstone |first1=Dr. |last2=Rigby |first2=C. P. |last3=Fergusson |first3=Wm. |last4=Grant |first4=J. A. |url=https://zenodo.org/record/1449384 }}</ref>  In 1871, shortly after the Royal Geographical Society moved into Savile Row, so did the [[Savile Club]]; a [[gentlemen's club]] founded in 1868 as the New Club, occupying rooms overlooking Trafalgar Square; it changed to its current name during its residence at 12 Savile Row, retaining the name when it moved in 1882 to premises in Piccadilly.<ref>{{cite book |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=sAA9olZqPSMC&pg=PA822 |title=The London Encyclopedia |page=822|author=[[Christopher Hibbert]] |author2=John Keay |author3=Julia Keay |publisher=Pan Macmillan|date= 23 March 2010 |isbn=978-1-4050-4925-2 }}</ref>

===Twentieth century===
[[File:Savile Row- Tailoring at Henry Poole and Co., London, England, UK, 1944 D21866.jpg|thumbnail|Bomb damage in Savile Row, 1944]]

Savile Row was extended to [[Conduit Street]] in 1937–38, and by 1939, the Metropolitan Police Station was constructed on the corner of Boyle Street.<ref name=London /> This police station was damaged in another [[The Blitz|German bombing raid]] in September 1940, during which the building opposite, No. 21a, was destroyed, as was No. 7 earlier that month.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.westendatwar.org.uk/page_id__112_path__0p28p.aspx |title=Bomb Incidents Savile Row W1 |first=Katlynn|last=Miller |website=WestEndatWar.org.uk |publisher=[[Westminster City Council]] |access-date=13 December 2012}}</ref> [[Fortress House]], an eight-storey block of offices faced with Portland stone, was constructed at 23 Savile Row in 1949–50 and occupied by a series of government ministries, ending with a long period of occupation by [[English Heritage]] until 2006. It was demolished in 2009 and replaced by a new [[mixed-use development]] designed by [[Eric Parry]], Architects.

{{anchor|3 Savile Row}}[[File:3 Savile Row.jpg|thumb|right|upright|3 Savile Row, the Beatles' former Apple offices, 2007]]

In July 1968, [[the Beatles]] moved [[Apple Corps]], their multimedia corporation, into 3 Savile Row.<ref>{{cite book |author1=Piet Schreuders |author2=Adam Smith |author3=Mark Lewisohn |title=Beatles London: The Ultimate Guide to Over 400 Beatles Sites in and Around London |publisher=Anova Books |date=30 June 2008 |page=53 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2N53-a3FafQC&pg=PA53|isbn=978-1-906032-26-5}}</ref> Apple purchased the building on 22{{nbsp}}June for £500,000 ({{Inflation|US|500000|1968|fmt=eq|r=-5|cursign=£}}).{{sfn|Miles|2001|p=301}}{{Inflation/fn|UK}} A [[Apple Studios (recording studio)|studio was built in the basement]]; though it was poorly designed, the Beatles recorded ''[[Let It Be (album)|Let It Be]]'' there before a new studio was constructed in 1971 at an estimated cost of $1.5 million.<ref>{{cite web |title=Fresh From Apple |url=http://applerecords.com/#!/memorabilia/FFA_VanEaton |publisher=Apple Records |access-date=27 May 2013}}</ref> Various artists, including [[Badfinger]], [[Mary Hopkin]], and [[Marc Bolan]] recorded in the basement studio until it closed in May 1975.<ref>{{cite book |first=Peter|last=Doggett |title=You Never Give Me Your Money: The Beatles After the Breakup |publisher=Random House |date=1 December 2010 |page=229 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=To957Vkn7WAC&pg=PA229|isbn=978-0-09-953236-1}}</ref> The Beatles' final live performance, known as the "[[The Beatles' rooftop concert|rooftop concert]]", was held on the roof of the building, on 30 January 1969, and was recorded for the documentary film ''[[Let It Be (1970 film)|Let It Be]]''; the last words of the band, spoken by [[John Lennon]] as the police stopped the performance, were "I hope we passed the audition."<ref>{{cite news |url=http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/subhajitbanerjee/8244277/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131224090936/http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/subhajitbanerjee/8244277/  |archive-date=24 December 2013 |title=The Beatles Rooftop Concert: It Was 40 Years Ago Today |first=Subhajit|last=Banerjee |date=30 January 2009 |newspaper=The Daily Telegraph |access-date=12 December 2012}}</ref>

In 1969, [[Nutters of Savile Row]] modernised the style and approach of the traditional tailors; a modernisation which continued in the 1990s with the "New Bespoke Movement", involving the designers [[Richard James (tailor)|Richard James]], [[Ozwald Boateng]], and [[Timothy Everest]]. With increasing rents and criticisms from [[Giorgio Armani]] of falling behind the times,<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/0d87dc8a-1e9f-11db-9877-0000779e2340.html |title=Big Enough For The Both of Us? |first=James|last=Sherwood |date=29 July 2006 |newspaper=Financial Times |access-date=14 December 2012}}</ref> the number of tailors in Savile Row had declined to 19 in 2006, from approximately 40 in the 1950s.<ref name="BusinessWeek1">{{cite web |url=http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2006-10-31/savile-row-never-goes-out-of-stylebusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120630064502/http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2006-10-31/savile-row-never-goes-out-of-stylebusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice |archive-date=30 June 2012 |title=Savile Row Never Goes Out of Style |access-date=9 January 2009 |first=Kate|last=Norton |work=BusinessWeek |date=31 October 2006}}</ref> However, tailoring businesses have increased since 2006; as of October 2014, a local online directory listed 44 tailoring and clothing businesses on and around Savile Row.<ref name=SRT_List>{{cite web |title=Tailors in Savile Row, W1B, London Borough Of Westminster, London |publisher=Yell.com |url=http://www.yell.com/ucs/UcsSearchAction.do?keywords=tailors&location=savile+row&find=Y&pageNum=1 |access-date=30 October 2014}}</ref> Some tailors had expressed concern in 2005 that an increase in commercial development in the area could lead to the death of the business locally, as tailors, many of whom traditionally manufacture their suits in their premises, in basement studios, could be priced out of the local property market.<ref>{{cite news |first=Marie|last=Jackson |title=London's Much-loved Icons at Risk |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/4465191.stm |agency=BBC News |date=25 April 2005 |access-date=9 January 2009}}</ref> {{anchor|Savile Row Bespoke Association}} The Savile Row Bespoke Association was founded in 2004 to protect and develop [[bespoke tailoring]] as practised in Savile Row and the surrounding streets.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/objectives/ |title=Objectives |publisher=Savile Row Bespoke Association |access-date=14 March 2013}}</ref> The member tailors are typically required to put at least 50 hours of hand labour into each two-piece suit.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/membership-requirements/ |title=Membership Requirements |publisher=Savile Row Bespoke Association |access-date=2 May 2013}}</ref> The Association, along with the owners, the Pollen Estate, is working in partnership with [[Westminster City Council|Westminster Council]] to protect the street's tailoring heritage under the Savile Row SPA (Special Policy Area).<ref name=SPA>{{cite web |url=http://transact.westminster.gov.uk/docstores/publications_store/FINAL%20SPAs%20etc.pdf |title=SPAs, Social and Community and Hotels |publisher=City Management Plan workshop briefing notes |access-date=12 March 2013}}</ref>

The Association objected to the American retailer [[Abercrombie & Fitch]]'s plan to open a children's store at 3 Savile Row, concerned that chain stores entering the street would drive up rents, and took part in, what was then, a successful protest in 2012.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.cnbc.com/2013/08/06/savile-row-tailors-battle-with-abercrombie-fitch.html|title=Savile Row tailors battle with Abercrombie & Fitch|first=Katrina|last=Bishop|date=6 August 2013|publisher=CNBC}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |url= https://www.forbes.com/sites/danielnyegriffiths/2012/04/24/give-three-piece-a-chance-savile-row-flash-mob-fights-abercrombie-fitch/ |title=Give Three-Piece A Chance: Savile Row Flash Mob Fights Abercrombie & Fitch| author=Daniel Nye Griffiths|date=24 April 2012|journal=[[Forbes]]| access-date=3 June 2013}}</ref> However, A&F were allowed to move in and set up a children's store in 2013,<ref name=SR_AF>{{cite news |first=Maxine |last=Frith |title=Abercrombie & Fitch's plans for Savile Row branch are 'deeply flawed' |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/abercrombie--fitchs-plans-for-savile-row-branch-are-deeply-flawed-8481357.html |work=London Evening Standard |date=February 2013 |access-date=6 August 2016}}</ref> although it has since closed.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.drapersonline.com/news/abercrombie-fitch-to-close-savile-row-store|title=Abercrombie & Fitch to close Savile Row store|date=25 November 2020}}</ref>

Starting in 1946,<ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/theroyalfamily/7533975/Hardy-Amies-Queens-favourite-dressmaker-abandons-to-its-heritage.html ''The Daily Telegraph''] Hardy Amies: Queen's favourite dressmaker 'abandons its heritage'</ref> 14 Savile Row was the home of [[Hardy Amies (fashion house)|Hardy Amies]] which changed ownership several times over the course of its history. In 2018, the company went into administration for a second time, and was attempting to sell its assets in 2019. The Savile Row store was closed in March 2019 and the space taken over by [[Hackett London|Hackett]] in June as its flagship store.<ref>https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2019/06/hackett-flagship-replace-hardy-amies-londons-savile-row/, Hackett flagship to replace Hardy Amies on Savile Row</ref><ref>https://www.drapersonline.com/news/hardy-amies-savile-row-store-closes, Exclusive: Hardy Amies Savile Row store closes</ref>