Editing Skinhead (section)

==History==
[[File:SHARP skinhead.jpg|thumb|upright|SHARP skinhead]]

===Origins and first wave===
In the late 1950s the post-war [[boom and bust|economic boom]] led to an increase in [[disposable income]] among many young people. Some of those youths spent that income on new fashions; they wore ripped clothes and would use pieces of material to patch them up as popularised by American [[soul music|soul]] groups, British [[Rhythm and blues|R&B]] bands, certain film actors, and [[Carnaby Street]] clothing merchants.<ref name="Mods">{{Cite book |last=Rawlings |first=Terry |title=Mod: A Very British Phenomenon |publisher=Omnibus Press |year=2000 |isbn=978-0-7119-68134 |location=London}}</ref> These youths became known as [[Mod (subculture)|mods]], a youth subculture noted for its [[consumerism]] and devotion to fashion, music, and [[scooter (motorcycle)|scooters]].<ref name="Mods 2">{{Cite book |last=Barnes |first=Richard |title=Mods! |publisher=Eel Pie Publishing Ltd. |year=1979 |isbn=978-0-85965-173-8 |location=London}}</ref>

Working class mods chose practical clothing styles that suited their lifestyle and employment circumstances: work [[boot]]s or [[combat boot|army boots]], straight-leg [[jeans]] or Sta-Prest [[trousers]], button-down shirts, and braces. When possible, these working class mods spent their money on suits and other sharp outfits to wear at dancehalls, where they enjoyed [[Soul music|soul]], [[ska]], and [[rocksteady]] music.{{sfn|Brown|2004}}<ref name="Mod music">{{Cite AV media notes |last=Edwards |first=Dave |title=Trojan Mod Reggae Box Set |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD020 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref>

Around 1966, a [[Schism (religion)|schism]] developed between the "peacock mods" (also known as ''smooth mods''), who were less violent and always wore the latest expensive clothes, and the "hard mods" (also known as "gang mods", "lemonheads" or "peanuts"), who were identified by their shorter hair and more working class image.<ref name="skinheads">{{Cite AV media notes |last=Old Skool Jim |title=Trojan Skinhead Reggae Box Set |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD169 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref> ''Hard mods'' became commonly known as skinheads by about 1968.<ref name="skinheads 2">{{Cite book |last=Marshall |first=George |title=Spirit of '69 – A Skinhead Bible |publisher=S.T. Publishing |year=1991 |isbn=978-1-898927-10-5 |location=Dunoon, Scotland}}</ref> Their short hair may have come about for practical reasons, since long hair could be a liability in industrial jobs and streetfights. Skinheads may also have cut their hair short in defiance of the more middle class [[hippie]] culture.<ref name="autogenerated9">{{Cite magazine |date=8 June 1970 |title=Britain: The Skinheads |url=http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130521073648/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep |archive-date=21 May 2013 |access-date=23 May 2010 |magazine=Time}}</ref>

In addition to retaining many mod influences, early skinheads were very interested in Jamaican [[rude boy]] styles and culture, especially the music: ska, rocksteady, and early [[reggae]] (before the [[tempo]] slowed down and lyrics became focused on topics like [[black nationalism]] and the [[Rastafari movement]]).{{sfn|Brown|2004}}<ref name="Smash">{{Cite web |title=Smiling Smash: An Interview with Cathal Smyth, a.k.a Chas Smash, of Madness |url=http://ska.about.com/musicperform/ska/library/1999/aa081699a.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20010219175613/http://ska.about.com/musicperform/ska/library/1999/aa081699a.htm |archive-date=19 February 2001 |access-date=31 August 2010}}</ref><ref name="autogenerated3">{{Cite web |last=de Koningh |first=Michael |title=Reggae In Your Jeggae: The Phenomonen of the Skinhead Movement and Reggae Music |url=http://www.reggaereggaereggae.com/Special%20Articles.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081217000127/http://www.reggaereggaereggae.com/Special%20Articles.htm |archive-date=17 December 2008 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Reggaereggaereggae.com}}</ref>

Skinhead culture became so popular by 1969 that even the rock band [[Slade]] temporarily adopted the look as a marketing strategy.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Straight From His Own Gob{{snd}} Noddy Holder interview |url=http://www.soundchecks.co.uk/articles/noholder.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20050405014451/http://www.soundchecks.co.uk/articles/noholder.html |archive-date=5 April 2005 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Soundchecks.co.uk |df=dmy-all}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Ambrose Slade: The Wolverhampton group that became Slade |url=http://www.brumbeat.net/aslade.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120813034234/http://www.brumbeat.net/aslade.htm |archive-date=13 August 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Brumbeat.net}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=h2g2{{snd}} Slade{{snd}} the band |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A454925 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090505164615/http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A454925 |archive-date=5 May 2009 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=BBC}}</ref> The subculture gained wider notice because of a series of violent and sexually explicit novels by [[James Moffat (author)|Richard Allen]], notably ''Skinhead'' and ''Skinhead Escapes''.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Mean Streets |first=Jon |title=Joe Hawkins: Not just an Oppressed-song |url=http://www.skinhead.no/content/articles/richardallen.asp |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070505014805/http://www.skinhead.no/content/articles/richardallen.asp |archive-date=5 May 2007 |access-date=11 April 2007 |df=dmy-all}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=British Hell's Angel and Skinhead novels of the 1970s |url=http://www.stewarthomesociety.org/sex/gensexco.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120420200942/http://www.stewarthomesociety.org/sex/gensexco.htm |archive-date=20 April 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Stewarthomesociety.org}}</ref> Due to largescale British migration to [[Perth]], [[Western Australia]], many British youths in that city joined skinhead/[[sharpies (Australian subculture)|sharpies]] gangs in the late 1960s and developed their own Australian style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Sharpies&nbsp;— Cult Gangs of the Sixties and Seventies |url=http://www.abc.net.au/dimensions/dimensions_in_time/Transcripts/s508106.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080924024911/http://www.abc.net.au/dimensions/dimensions_in_time/Transcripts/s508106.htm |archive-date=24 September 2008 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Abc.net.au}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Arts & Culture – ABC News |url=https://www.abc.net.au/news/arts-culture/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081029203605/http://www.abc.net.au/arts/visual/stories/sharpies_index.htm |archive-date=29 October 2008 |website=www.abc.net.au}}</ref>

By the early 1970s, the skinhead subculture started to fade from popular culture, and some of the original skins dropped into new categories, such as the ''[[Suedehead (subculture)|suedeheads]]'' (defined by the ability to manipulate one's hair with a comb), ''smoothies'' (often with shoulder-length hairstyles), and ''bootboys'' (with mod-length hair; associated with gangs and [[football hooliganism]]).<ref name="skinheads 2" /><ref name="autogenerated9" /><ref name="Suedeheads">{{Cite AV media notes |last=de Konigh |first=Michael |title=Suedehead Reggae Box Set |date=2004 |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD003 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Suedeheads |url=http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suedeheads |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120604084818/http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suedeheads |archive-date=4 June 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Film Noir Buff}}</ref> Some fashion trends returned to the mod roots, with [[brogues]], [[loafers]], suits, and the [[Trousers|slacks]]-and-[[sweater]] look making a comeback.

===Second wave===
[[File:Hoxton Tom McCourt 1977.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Hoxton Tom McCourt]], a revival skinhead pictured in 1977]]

In the late 1970s, the skinhead subculture was revived to a notable extent after the introduction of [[punk rock]].<ref name="Soundtrack">{{Cite journal |last=Shaffer |first=Ryan |year=2013 |title=The Soundtrack of Neo-Fascism: Youth and Music in the National Front |journal=Patterns of Prejudice |volume=47 |pages=458–482 |doi=10.1080/0031322X.2013.842289 |s2cid=144461518 |number=4–5}}</ref> Most of these revivalist skinheads reacted to the commercialism of punk by adopting a look that was in line with the original 1969 skinhead style.{{citation needed|date=June 2014}} This revival included Gary Hodges and [[Hoxton Tom McCourt]] (both later of the band the [[4-Skins]]) and [[Suggs (singer)|Suggs]], later of the band [[Madness (band)|Madness]]. Around this time, some skinheads became affiliated with [[far-right politics|far right]] groups such as the [[National Front (United Kingdom)|National Front]] and the [[British Movement]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Arnold |first=Rebecca |title=Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century |publisher=I.B.Tauris |year=2001 |isbn=978-1860645556 |pages=43}}</ref> From 1979 onwards, [[Punk fashion|punk-influenced]] skinheads with shorter hair, higher boots and less emphasis on traditional styles grew in numbers and grabbed media attention, mostly due to [[football hooliganism]]. There still remained, however, skinheads who preferred the original mod-inspired styles.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Childs |first=Peter |title=Encyclopedia of Contemporary British Culture |last2=Storry |first2=Michael |publisher=Routledge |year=2013 |isbn=978-1134755547 |pages=496 |quote=In 2009 Paul Lazarus and Phil downsborough put on an event in Margate in Kent "the Big 40, the fortieth anniversary of Skinhead" which was attended by Skinheads from Britain, the USA, Europe, Australia and Japan  The event ran on a yearly basis until 2012}}</ref>

Eventually different interpretations of the skinhead subculture expanded beyond Britain and continental Europe. In the United States, certain segments of the [[hardcore punk]] scene embraced skinhead styles and developed their own version of the subculture.<ref name="autogenerated4">{{Cite magazine |date=November 1, 2006 |title=Rage with the Machine: A new breed of patriotic punks gets in the pit for Bush |url=http://www.stuffmagazine.com/articles/index.aspx?id=1519 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080507204645/http://www.stuffmagazine.com/articles/index.aspx?id=1519 |archive-date=7 May 2008 |magazine=Stuffmagazine.com}}</ref>

Bill Osgerby has argued that skinhead culture more broadly grows strength from specific economic circumstances.<ref>Osgerby, 1998</ref> In a BBC interview, he remarked "In the late 70s and early 80s, working class culture was disintegrating through unemployment and inner city decay and there was an attempt to recapture a sense of working class solidarity and identity in the face of a tide of social change."<ref name="Under">{{Cite web |last=Geoghegan |first=Tom |date=12 April 2007 |title=Under the skin |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/6546617.stm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170817153324/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/6546617.stm |archive-date=17 August 2017 |website=BBC News Magazine}}</ref>

=== Germany ===
By the 1980s street fights regularly broke out in [[West Germany]] between skinheads and members of the [[anti-fascist]], and [[left wing]] youth movements. German [[neo-nazism|neo-nazis]], led among others by [[Michael Kühnen]], sought to expand their ranks with new young members from the burgeoning skinhead scene. On the other side of the [[Berlin Wall]], in [[East Germany]], the skinhead youth movement had developed two different styles: one was more focused on rebellious youth fashion styles while the other camp often dressed in regular clothes and focused more heavily on political activity. These groups were infiltrated by agents of the [[Stasi]] and did not last long in East Germany. After a group of skinheads attacked a punk concert at Zion's Church (East Berlin) in 1987, many skinhead leaders fled to West Germany to avoid arrest.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Ostow |first=Robin |date=1995 |title=" 'Ne Art Bürgerwehr in Form von Skins": Young Germans on the Streets in the Eastern and Western States of the Federal Republic |journal=New German Critique |issue=64 |pages=87–103 |doi=10.2307/488465 |issn=0094-033X |jstor=488465}}</ref>