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Worsted
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==Manufacture== [[File:Hudson Worsted Company mill, March 2022.JPG|thumb|right|A former worsted mill in [[Hudson, Massachusetts]]]] Worsted cloth, archaically also known as [[Stuff (cloth)|stuff]], is lightweight and has a coarse texture. The [[weaving|weave]] is usually [[twill]] or plain. Twilled fabrics such as [[whipcord]], [[gabardine]] and [[serge (fabric)|serge]] are often made from worsted yarn. Worsted fabric made from wool has a natural recovery, meaning that it is resilient and quickly returns to its natural shape, but non-glossy worsted will shine with use or abrasion.<ref name="TWO" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Montgomery|first=Florence M.|url=http://archive.org/details/textilesinameric00mont|title=Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth|date=1984|publisher=New York; London : Norton|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-393-01703-8}}</ref> ===Worsted and woollens=== Though both made of wool, worsted and woollens undergo different manufacturing steps resulting in significantly different cloths. In worsteds, which undergo more spinning steps, the natural crimp of the wool fiber is removed in the process of spinning the yarn while it is retained in woolens,<ref>{{Cite book|last=Radcliffe|first=John W.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9fwimg_6YQwC&q=worsted+cloth|title=Woolen and Worsted Yarn Manufacture|date=1953|publisher=Emmott & Company Limited|pages=52|language=en}}</ref> and woollens are produced with short-staple yarns while worsted cloths need longer staple length. When woven, the yarns in worsted cloth lie parallel. Woollen materials are soft and bulky with fuzzy surfaces, while worsted is smoother.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Gilligan|first=E. G.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XZOkAgAAQBAJ&q=worsted+cloth&pg=PA3|title=Woollen and Worsted Woven Fabric Design|date=2004-01-05|publisher=Elsevier|isbn=978-1-84569-317-6|pages=7|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=McLaren|first=Walter Stowe B.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zGYDAAAAQAAJ&q=Woolen+wool+yarns+are+spun+from+short+wool+fibers+about+1-3+inches+long;+and+worsted+wool+yarns+are+spun+from+long+wool+fibers+more+than+3+inches+in+general.&pg=PA58|title=Spinning woollen and worsted|date=1884|pages=58|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Manufacturing of Worsted and Woolen Yarns|url=https://www.textilesphere.com/2019/12/worsted-and-woolen-spinning.html|access-date=2021-05-31}}</ref> There are different terms in use for describing the [[Hand feel|softness]] of textile materials. The wool trade term for it is ''handle'', with ''good handling'' cloth being soft to the touch, while ''poor handling'' suggests the material's harsh hand feel.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Hind|first=John Richard|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vwVHAAAAYAAJ&q=worsted+and+woollen+feels|title=Woollen & Worsted Raw Materials: Covering the Syllabus of the City and Guilds of London Examinations in These Subjects|date=1934|publisher=Ernest Benn|pages=40|language=en}}</ref>
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