Editing Grunge (section)

== Clothing and fashion ==
{{Main|Grunge fashion}}

=== 1980s–1990s ===
[[File:Courtney Love on stage crop.jpg|thumb|right|upright|alt=A female musician, Courtney Love, singing into a microphone at a concert. She is wearing a lingerie corset and has long blonde hair.|[[Courtney Love]] has been considered one of the top ten women who defined 1990s style by popularizing the "[[kinderwhore]]" style.]]

{{vanchor|Clothing}} commonly worn by grunge musicians in Washington were a "mundane everyday style", in which they would wear the same clothes on stage that they wore at home.<ref name="Felix-Jager, Steven 2017. p. 135" /> This Pacific Northwest "slacker style" or "slouch look" contrasted sharply with the "wild" [[mohawk (hairstyle)|mohawks]], leather jackets and chains worn by punks. This everyday clothing approach was used by grunge musicians because [[authenticity (philosophy)|authenticity]] was a key principle in the Seattle scene.<ref name="Felix-Jager, Steven 2017. p. 135" /> The grunge look typically consisted of [[second-hand clothes]] or [[Charity shop|thrift store]] items and the typical outdoor clothing (most notably [[flannel]] shirts) of the region, as well as a generally unkempt appearance and long hair.<ref name="Gina Misiroglu 2015. p. 343" /> For grunge singers, long hair was used "as a mask to conceal the face" so they can "expres[s their] innermost thoughts"; Cobain is a notable example.<ref name="Fournier, Karen 2015. p. 44" /> Male grunge musicians were "... unkempt ... [and] ... unshaven<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.executivestyle.com.au/the-unfurling-of-a-modern-marvel-38lyl#ixzz4YQC1y25S |title=The unfurling of a modern marvel |last=Bailey |first=John |date=2014-05-19 |publisher=executivestyle |access-date=11 February 2017 |quote=In the '90s, the unshaven look of grunge was one way of resisting the increasingly clean and shiny image to which men were supposed to aspire. |archive-date=2017-02-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170212092913/http://www.executivestyle.com.au/the-unfurling-of-a-modern-marvel-38lyl#ixzz4YQC1y25S |url-status=dead }}</ref> [,] with ... tousled hair"<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thepopcore.com/music/90s-grunge/ |title=90s Grunge |author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.--> |publisher=The Pop Core|access-date=February 11, 2017 |quote=Grunge musicians were known for their aversion to on-stage theatrics, and adopted an unkempt, workmanlike look. The wardrobe of most grunge musicians featured a wrinkled flannel shirt and plain blue jeans. And it wasn't uncommon for a grunge musician to be unshaven with ... tousled hair.}}</ref> that was often unwashed, greasy and "... matted [into a] sheep-dog mop".<ref name="nytimes.com">{{cite web |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1992/11/15/style/grunge-a-success-story.html?pagewanted=all |title=Grunge: A Success Story |last=Marin |first=Rick |date=November 15, 1992 |newspaper=The New York Times |access-date=February 25, 2017 }}</ref>

The lumberjack attire was a common sight in the thrift stores near Seattle for the low prices that musicians could afford.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Mazullo|first=Mark|date=2000|title=The Man Whom the World Sold: Kurt Cobain, Rock's Progressive Aesthetic, and the Challenges of Authenticity|jstor=742606|journal=The Musical Quarterly|edition=4|volume=84|issue=4|pages=713–749|doi=10.1093/mq/84.4.713}}</ref> Grunge style consisted of ripped jeans, [[thermal underwear]],<ref name="United States 2005. p. 359" /> [[Doc Martens]] boots or combat boots (often unlaced), band [[T-shirt]]s, oversized knit [[sweater]]s, long and droopy skirts, ripped tights, [[Birkenstocks]], hiking boots,<ref name="1990sTrends">{{cite web|url=http://www.retrowaste.com/1990s/fashion-in-the-1990s/ |title=Fashion in the 1990s |access-date=May 9, 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-60512081.html |title=Must have; Embroidered Jeans |date=July 3, 1999 | last=Barr |first=Kelly Cooper |work=Daily Record (Glasgow, Scotland) |access-date=January 17, 2016 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307113139/https://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-60512081.html |archive-date=March 7, 2016 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/smgpubs/access/60187503.html?dids=60187503:60187503&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Apr+25%2C+1998&author=John+Davidson&pub=The+Herald&desc=gypsy+rose&pqatl=google |title=Gypsy Rose |date=April 25, 1998 |access-date=April 1, 2016 |archive-date=November 7, 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121107202326/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/smgpubs/access/60187503.html?dids=60187503:60187503&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Apr+25%2C+1998&author=John+Davidson&pub=The+Herald&desc=gypsy+rose&pqatl=google |url-status=dead }}</ref> and eco-friendly clothing made from [[Textile recycling|recycled textiles]] or [[fair trade]] organic cotton.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=CqnIAwAAQBAJ&q=1990s%20neon%20clothing&pg=PA154 |title=Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing: Eco-friendly Raw Materials ...|page=154 |date= June 2, 2014|access-date=April 1, 2016|isbn=9789812870650|last1=Muthu|first1=Subramanian Senthilkannan|publisher=Springer }}</ref> As well, since women in the grunge scene wore the "... same plaid [shirt]s, boots, and short cropped heads as their male counterparts", women showed "... that they are not defined by their sex appeal."<ref name="Komar">{{cite web |url= https://www.bustle.com/articles/149928-the-evolution-of-androgynous-fashion-throughout-the-20th-century-photos |title=The Evolution of Androgynous Fashion Throughout the 20th Century |last=Komar |first=Marlen |date=30 March 2016 |work=[[Bustle (magazine)|Bustle]] |access-date=March 9, 2017}}</ref>

"Grunge ... became an [[Consumerism|anti-consumerist]] movement where the less you spent on clothes, the more 'coolness' you had."<ref name="Ashgate">{{Cite book|title=Grunge: Music and Memory|url=https://archive.org/details/grungemusicmemor00stro|url-access=limited|last1=Strong|first1=Catherine|last2=Scott|first2=Derek|last3=Hawkins|first3=Stan|publisher=Ashgate Publishing|year=2011|location=United Kingdom|pages=[https://archive.org/details/grungemusicmemor00stro/page/n15 2], 19}}</ref> The style did not evolve out of a conscious attempt to create an appealing fashion; music journalist [[Charles R. Cross]] said, "[Nirvana frontman] [[Kurt Cobain]] was just too lazy to shampoo", and Sub Pop's Jonathan Poneman said, "This [clothing] is cheap, it's durable, and it's kind of timeless. It also runs against the grain of the whole flashy aesthetic that existed in the 80s."<ref name="success NYT" /> The flannel and "... cracked leatherette coats" in the grunge scene were part of the Pacific Northwest's [[Thrift store|thrift-shop]] aesthetic.<ref name="nytimes.com" />  Grunge fashion was very much an anti-fashion response and a non-conformist move against the "manufactured image",<ref name="Stevenson">{{Cite book|title=A Visual History: From Regency & Romance to Retro & Revolution.|last=Stevenson|first=N.J|publisher=St. Martin's Griffin|year=2012|location=New York|pages=248–249}}</ref> often pushing musicians to dress in authentic ways and to not glamorize themselves. At the same time, Sub-Pop utilized the 'grunge look' in their marketing of their bands. In an interview with VH1, photographer Charles Peterson commented that members from grunge band Tad "were given blue collar identities that weren't entirely earned. Bruce (Pavitt) really got him to dress up in flannel and a real chain saw and really play up this image of a mountain man and it worked."<ref name="Rise">{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIGyJ4dgpRw| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120220231156/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIGyJ4dgpRw&gl=US&hl=en| archive-date=2012-02-20|title=VH1 Documentary: Rise And Rise Of Kurt Cobain|publisher=VH1}}</ref>

''Dazed'' magazine called [[Courtney Love]] one of "ten women who defined the 1990s" from a style perspective: the "... image of Courtney Love's too-short baby doll dress, tattered fur coat and shock of platinum hair", a look dubbed "[[kinderwhore]]", "... topped with a tiara, of course – is seared on the memory of anyone who lived through the decade."<ref>{{cite magazine |url=http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26794/1/ten-women-who-defined-the-90s |title=Ten women who defined the 90s |last=Healey |first=Claire Marie |date=2016 |magazine=Dazed |access-date=February 12, 2017 }}</ref> The kinderwhore look consisted of torn, ripped tight or low-cut [[babydoll]] and [[Peter Pan collar|Peter-Pan-collared]] dresses, slips, heavy makeup with dark eyeliner,<ref>{{cite web|title=Kinderwhore grunge fashion guide|url=http://www.mookychick.co.uk/indie-fashion/alternative-style/kinderwhore-grunge-fashion.php|website=Mookychick|date=2014}}</ref> barrettes, and leather boots or [[Mary Jane (shoe)|Mary–Jane]] shoes.<ref name=elle>{{cite web|last1=Garis|first1=Mary Grace|title=The Evolution of Courtney Love|url=http://www.elle.com/culture/celebrities/news/g9069/the-evolution-of-courtney-love/?slide=7|website=Elle|publisher=Kevin O'Malley|access-date=December 13, 2015|date=2014-07-09}}</ref><ref>"Miss World" music video.[http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1sf1c_hole-miss-world_music Dailymotion] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170107200404/http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1sf1c_hole-miss-world_music |date=2017-01-07 }}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Meltzer|first1=Marisa|title=Girl Power: The Nineties Revolution in Music|date=2010|publisher=Faber and Faber|location=New York|isbn=978-0-86547-979-1|page=48|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-zqSn0jMJAQC&pg=PA48|access-date=December 13, 2015}}</ref> [[Kat Bjelland]] of [[Babes in Toyland (band)|Babes in Toyland]] was the first to define it, while Courtney Love of [[Hole (band)|Hole]] was the first to popularize it. Love has claimed that she took the style from [[Divinyls]] frontwoman [[Chrissy Amphlett]].<ref name=elle /> The look became very popular in 1994.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Stegemeyer|first1=Anne|last2=Price Alford|first2=Holly|title=Who's who in fashion|date=2014|publisher=Fairchild Books|location=New York|isbn=978-1-60901-969-3|edition=6th|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=QeLcBAAAQBAJ&pg=PR41|access-date=December 13, 2015}}</ref>

''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' stated in 2014 that "Cobain pulled liberally from both ends of a woman's and a man's wardrobe, and his Seattle thrift-store look ran the gamut of masculine lumberjack workwear and 40s-by-way-of-70s feminine dresses. It was completely counter to the shellacked, flashy aesthetic of the 1980s in every way. In disheveled jeans and floral frocks, he softened the tough exterior of the archetypal rebel from the inside out, and set the ball in motion for a radical, millennial idea of androgyny."<ref name="vogue.com">{{cite web |first=Chioma |last=Nnadi |url=http://www.vogue.com/868923/kurt-cobain-legacy-of-grunge-in-fashion/ |title=Kurt Cobain and the Legacy of Grunge in Fashion – Vogue |website=Vogue.com |date=April 8, 2014 |access-date=April 1, 2016 |archive-date=April 4, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160404140625/http://www.vogue.com/868923/kurt-cobain-legacy-of-grunge-in-fashion |url-status=dead }}</ref> Cobain's way of dressing "was the antithesis of the macho American man", because he "... made it cooler to look slouchy and loose, no matter if you were a boy or a girl."<ref name="vogue.com" /> Music and culture writer Julianne Escobedo Shepherd wrote that with Cobain's style of dress "Not only did he make it okay to be a freak, he made it desirable."<ref name="vogue.com" />

====Adoption by mainstream====
Grunge music hit the mainstream in the early 1990s with bands such as Soundgarden, Alice in Chains, Pearl Jam, and Nirvana being signed to major record labels. Grunge fashion began to break into mainstream fashion in mid-1992 for both sexes and peaked in late 1993 and early 1994.<ref name="1990sTrends" /><ref name="1994InReview">{{cite web|url=https://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/171387/Fashion-and-Dress-Year-In-Review-1994 |title=Fashion and Dress: Year In Review 1994 |access-date=March 17, 2015}}</ref><ref name="HitsNMisses94">{{cite web|url=https://www.orlandosentinel.com/1994/12/30/1994-fashion-hits-misses/ |title=1994 Fashion Hits & Misses |date=30 December 1994 |access-date=March 17, 2015}}</ref> As it picked up momentum, the grunge tag was being used by shops selling expensive flannelette shirts to cash in on the trend.<ref name="Ashgate" /> Ironically, the non-conformist look suddenly became a mainstream trend. In the fashion world, [[Marc Jacobs]] presented a show for Perry Ellis in 1992 (the Spring 1993 Collection,) featuring grunge-inspired clothing mixed with high-end fabrics. Jacobs found inspiration in the "[[realism (arts)|realism]]" of grunge streetwear; he mixed it with the luxury of fashion by sending models down the catwalk in beanies, floral dresses and silk flannel shirts.<ref name="Worsley">{{Cite book|title=100 Ideas That Changed Fashion|last=Worsley|first=Harriett|publisher=Laurence King Publishing|year=2011|page=197}}</ref> This did, however, not sit well with the brand owners and Jacobs was dismissed. Other designers like [[Anna Sui]], also drew inspiration from grunge during the spring/summer 1993 season.<ref name="Stevenson" />

In the same year, ''Vogue'' did a spread called "Grunge & Glory" with fashion photographer [[Steven Meisel]] who shot supermodels [[Kristen McMenamy]], [[Naomi Campbell]], and [[Nadja Auermann]] in a savanna landscape wearing grunge-styled clothing.<ref>{{cite web |title=Marc Jacobs – Voguepedia |url=http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Marc_Jacobs |website=Vogue.com |access-date=10 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140719161512/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Marc_Jacobs |archive-date=19 July 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Brecher |first1=Media |title=Lily McMenamy On Following Her Model Mom's Lead |url=https://www.teenvogue.com/gallery/lily-mcmenamy?slide=1 |access-date=10 December 2021 |work=Teen Vogue |date=5 February 2013}}</ref> This shoot made McMenamy the face for grunge, as she had her eyebrows shaved and her hair cropped short. Designers like [[Christian Lacroix]], [[Donna Karen]] and [[Karl Lagerfeld]] incorporated the grunge influence into their looks.<ref name="Worsley" /> In 1993, James Truman, editor of ''[[Details (magazine)|Details]]'', said: "to me the thing about grunge is it's not anti-fashion, it's unfashion. Punk was anti-fashion. It made a statement. Grunge is about not making a statement, which is why it's crazy for it to become a fashion statement."<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1992/11/15/style/grunge-a-success-story.html?pagewanted=all|title=Grunge: A Success Story.|last=Marin|first=Rick|work=The New York Times |date=November 15, 1992}}</ref> The unkempt fashion sense defined the look of the "slacker generation", who "skipped school, smoked pot ... [and] cigarettes and listened to music" hoping to become a [[Celebrity|rock star]] one day.<ref name="Rise" />

=== 2000s–2010s ===
Even though grunge fashion had declined in popularity by the late 1990s, designers have continued to occasionally draw inspiration from the movement. Grunge appeared as a trend again in 2008, and for Fall/Winter 2013, [[Hedi Slimane]] at [[Yves Saint Laurent (brand)|Yves Saint Laurent]] brought back grunge to the [[Runway (fashion)|runway]]. With [[Courtney Love]] as his muse for the collection, she reportedly loved the collection. "No offense to MJ [Marc Jacobs] but he never got it right," Courtney said. "This is what it really was. Hedi knows his shit. He got it accurate, and MJ and Anna [Sui] did not."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.refinery29.com/2013/03/43945/courtney-love-marc-jacobs-got-grunge-wrong|title=Courtney Love Has Spoken: Why Hedi Slimane Rules (And Why She Might Be Wrong)|last=Manders|first=Hayden|date=March 6, 2013|website=Refinery29.com}}</ref>  Both Cobain and Love apparently burnt the Perry Ellis collection they received from Marc Jacobs back in 1993.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://wwd.com/eye/people/courtney-love-on-birkins-and-sex-3189035/|title=Courtney Love on Birkins and Sex|last=Strugatz|first=Rachel|date=July 10, 2010|publisher=WWD}}</ref> In 2016, grunge inspired an upscale "reinvention" of the style by [[A$AP Rocky]], [[Rihanna]] and [[Kanye West]].<ref name="Elan">{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/apr/13/how-aap-rocky-rihanna-and-kanye-west-reinvented-grunge-style|title=How A$AP Rocky, Rihanna and Kanye West reinvented grunge style|last=Elan|first=Priya|date=April 13, 2016|newspaper=The Guardian}}</ref> However, "dressing grunge is no longer a badge of authenticity, though: the signifiers of rebellion (Dr Martens boots, [[tartan]] shirts) are omnipotent on the high street", says Lynette Nylander, deputy editor of ''[[i-D magazine]]''.<ref name="Elan" />