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Bubble and squeak
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==Modern versions== [[File:Montpelier, Peckham, London (2875954468).jpg|thumb|upright=1.25|Bubble and squeak, left]] Possibly because of the scarcity of beef during [[Rationing in the United Kingdom|food rationing]] in and after the [[Second World War]],<ref>McCorquodale, p. 138</ref> by the latter half of the 20th century the basic ingredients were widely considered to be cooked and mashed (or coarsely crushed) potato and chopped cooked cabbage. Those are the only two ingredients in [[Delia Smith]]'s 1987 recipe.<ref>D. Smith, p. 154</ref> [[Clarissa Dickson Wright]]'s 1996 version consists of crushed cooked potatoes, finely chopped raw onion, and cooked cabbage (or [[brussels sprouts]]), seasoned with salt and pepper, mixed together and shallow-fried until browned on the exterior.<ref name=tfl>Paterson and Dickson Wright, p. 97.</ref> Like Smith, Dickson Wright specifies [[dripping]] (or [[lard]]) for frying, finding vegetable oil unsuitable for frying bubble and squeak, because the mixture will not brown adequately.<ref name=tfl/> Several other cooks find oil or butter satisfactory.<ref>Hix, p. 214; Oliver, p. 383; and J. Smith, p. 247</ref> [[Fiona Beckett]] (2008), like Smith and Dickson Wright, stipulates no ingredients other than potato and cabbage,<ref>Beckett, p. 169</ref> but there are many published variants of the basic recipe. [[Gary Rhodes]] favours sliced brussels sprouts, rather than cabbage, with gently cooked sliced onions and mashed potato, fried in butter.<ref>Rhodes, pp. 118β119</ref> He comments that although the basic ingredients of bubble and squeak and [[colcannon]] are similar, the two are very different dishes, the former being traditionally made from left-overs and fried to give a brown crust, and the latter "a completely separate dish of potato, [[spring onion]] and cabbage, served almost as creamed potatoes".<ref name=gr>Rhodes, pp. 139 and 147</ref> [[Jeff Smith (chef)|Jeff Smith]] (1987) adds grated [[courgettes]] and chopped ham and bacon.<ref>J. Smith, p. 247</ref> [[Mark Hix]] (2005) adds cooked and chopped leeks and swede to the mix.<ref>Hix, p. 214</ref> [[Jamie Oliver]] (2007) adds chestnuts and "whatever veg you like β carrots, Brussels, [[swede (vegetable)|swedes]], [[turnip]]s, onions, leeks or [[Savoy cabbage]]".<ref>Oliver, p. 383</ref> [[Nigel Slater]], in a 2013 recipe using Christmas leftovers, adds chopped goose, ham and pumpkin to the mixture.<ref name=ns>Slater, Nigel. [https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 "Christmas bubble and squeak"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200815205419/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 |date=15 August 2020 }}, BBC. Retrieved 27 October 2020</ref> The mixture is then [[Shallow frying|shallow fried]], either shaped into round cakes or as a single panful and then sliced. The first method is suggested by Delia Smith, Hix and Slater; Rhodes finds both methods satisfactory; Dickson Wright, Oliver and Jeff Smith favour the whole-pan method.<ref name=ns/><ref>Hix, p. 214; Oliver, p. 383; Paterson and Dickson Wright, p. 97; Rhodes, pp. 118β119; D. Smith, p. 154; and J. Smith, p. 247</ref>
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