Editing Crinoline (section)

==Pre-1850==
{{multiple image |
|width1 = 150 |image1 = Horsehair petticoat MET CI43.126.26 F.jpg |caption1 = Horsehair crinoline, 1840s ([[Anna Wintour Costume Center|MET]])
|width2 = 173 |image2 = Petticoat MET 1986.106.8 F.jpg |caption2 = Down-quilted petticoat, British, 1860s (MET)}}

The crinoline was not the first garment designed to support the wearer's skirts in a fashionable shape. Whilst the bell-shaped skirts seen on [[Snake Goddess|statuettes]] from the ancient [[Minoan civilization]] are often compared to crinolines, particularly under the assumption that hoops were required to retain their shape, there is no evidence to confirm this and the theory is usually dismissed.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=xgHnT3xNzvQC&pg=PA75 Glotz], p. 75</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=QjyNAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA30 Wace], p. 30</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=nTaCAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA125 Cleland, Davies & Llewellyn-Jones], p. 125</ref>

The crinoline's ancestors are more typically recognised as the Spanish {{lang|es|verdugada}}, later known as the [[farthingale]], widely worn in Europe from the late 15th century to the early 17th century, and the [[Pannier (clothing)|side-hoops and panniers]] worn throughout the 18th century.<ref name=yarwood/><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=zplVikMZOXgC&pg=PA78 Watt], p. 78</ref><ref name=alison44>[https://books.google.com/books?id=dg7DAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA44 Gernsheim], p. 44</ref>

The horsehair fabric called crinoline was first noted by 1829, when it was offered for lining and dress-making.<ref name=cun89>Cunnington, p. 89</ref> That year, [[Rudolph Ackermann]]'s ''Repository of Fashions'' described the new textile as a "fine clear stuff, not unlike in appearance to [[Leno weave|leno]], but of a very strong and durable description: it is made in different colours; grey, and the colour of unbleached [[cambric]] are most in favour."<ref>{{cite book|editor1-last=Ackermann|editor1-first=Rudolph|editor1-link=Rudolph Ackermann|title=R. Ackermann's Repository of fashions|date=1829|publisher=Ackermann|location=London|page=[https://archive.org/details/rackermannsrepo00manugoog/page/n140 78]|url=https://archive.org/details/rackermannsrepo00manugoog}}</ref>

Petticoats made of horsehair crinoline appeared around 1839, proving so successful that the name 'crinoline' began to refer to supportive petticoats in general, rather than solely to the material.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=jgvICQAAQBAJ&pg=PT181 Waugh], p. 181</ref> By 1847, crinoline fabric was being used as a stiffening for skirt linings, although English women preferred separate crinoline fabric petticoats which were beginning to collapse under the increasing weight of the skirts.<ref name=cun145>Cunnington, p. 145</ref> One alternative to horsehair crinoline was the quilted petticoat stuffed with down or feathers, such as that reportedly worn in 1842 by Lady Aylesbury.<ref name=cunder147>[https://books.google.com/books?id=PUXDAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA147 Cunnington & Cunnington], p. 147</ref> However, quilted skirts were not widely produced until the early 1850s.<ref name=cunder147/> In about 1849, it was possible to buy stiffened and corded cotton fabric for making petticoats, marketed as 'crinoline', and designed as a substitute for the horsehair textile.<ref name=cun165>Cunnington, pp. 165–169</ref> The artificial crinoline with hoops did not emerge until the 1850s.<ref name=cun145/>