Editing Curry (section)

== Cultural exchanges ==

=== Ancient spice trade in Asia ===

Austronesian merchants in South East Asia [[Spice trade|traded spices]] along marine trade routes between South Asia (primarily the ports on the south eastern coast of India and Sri Lanka) and East Asia as far back as 5000 BCE.<ref name="Manguin2016">{{cite book |last=Manguin |first=Pierre-Yves |title=Early Exchange between Africa and the Wider Indian Ocean World |publisher=Palgrave Macmillan |year=2016 |isbn=9783319338224 |editor-last=Campbell |editor-first=Gwyn |pages=51–76 |chapter=Austronesian Shipping in the Indian Ocean: From Outrigger Boats to Trading Ships |access-date=26 March 2023 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XsvDDQAAQBAJ&pg=PA50 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230326195021/https://books.google.com/books?id=XsvDDQAAQBAJ&pg=PA50 |archive-date=26 March 2023 |url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |author-last=Solheim |author-first=Wilhelm G. |author-link=Wilhelm Solheim |date=1996 |title=The Nusantao and north-south dispersals |journal=Bulletin of the Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association |volume=15 |pages=101–109}}</ref> Archaeological evidence dating to 2600 BCE from [[Mohenjo-daro]] suggests the use of [[mortar and pestle]] to pound spices including [[mustard seed|mustard]], [[fennel]], [[cumin]], and [[tamarind]] pods with which they flavoured food.<ref>{{cite book |last=Iyer |first=Raghavan |author-link=Raghavan Iyer (chef) |year=2008 |title=660 Curries |location=New York |publisher=Workman Publishing |pages=2–3 |isbn=9780761137870}}</ref> [[Black pepper]] is native to the [[Indian subcontinent]] and Southeast Asia and has been known to [[Indian cuisine|Indian cooking]] since at least 2000 BCE.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Pepper">{{harvnb|Davidson|2014|at="Pepper", pp. 612–613}}</ref> The three basic ingredients of the spicy stew were [[ginger]], [[garlic]], and [[turmeric]]. Using starch grain analysis, archaeologists identified the residue of these spices in both skeletons and pottery shards from excavations in India, finding that [[turmeric]] and [[ginger]] were present.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/people-have-been-eating-curry-for-4500-years-8604270/ |title=People Have Been Eating Curry for 4,500 Years |website=[[Smithsonian (magazine)|Smithsonian Magazine]] |access-date=26 December 2020 |archive-date=17 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210517012343/https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/people-have-been-eating-curry-for-4500-years-8604270/ |url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="Lawler 2013">{{Cite web |last=Lawler |first=Andrew |title=Where Did Curry Come From? |date=29 January 2013 |website=Slate |url=https://slate.com/human-interest/2013/01/indus-civilization-food-how-scientists-are-figuring-out-what-curry-was-like-4500-years-ago.html |access-date=27 December 2020 |archive-date=15 November 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201115085836/https://slate.com/human-interest/2013/01/indus-civilization-food-how-scientists-are-figuring-out-what-curry-was-like-4500-years-ago.html |url-status=live}}</ref> Sauces in India before Columbus could contain black pepper or [[long pepper]] to provide a little heat, but not chili, so they were not [[Pungency|spicy hot]] by modern standards.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019 transcript">{{cite web |last1=Twilley |first1=Nicola |last2=Graber |first2=Nicola |last3=Iyer |first3=Raghavan |author3-link=Raghavan Iyer (chef) |last4=Collingham |first4=Lizzie |author4-link=Lizzie Collingham |title=Transcript: The Curry Chronicles |url=https://gastropod.com/transcript-the-curry-chronicles/ |website=Gastropod |access-date=6 October 2024 |date=9 April 2019}}</ref>

=== Early modern trade ===

[[File:Curry's origins.svg|thumb|center|upright=3|Origin and spread of curry around the world. Mild spices were traded between India and East Asia from 5000 BCE.<ref name="Manguin2016"/> The [[Columbian Exchange]] brought chili peppers to India.<ref name="Batsha 2020"/> Anglo-Indian food came to Britain in the 17th century.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019 transcript"/> The word "curry" was first recorded in print in [[Hannah Glasse]]'s 1747 English cookery book.<ref name="Online Etym Dict" /> In the 19th century, curry spread to the Caribbean<ref name="Mishan 2017"/> and to Japan,<ref name="Itoh 2011"/> and from there to Chinese people, starting in Singapore.<ref name="Lim 1886"/> Further migration and globalisation (not shown) made curry a fully international dish.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>]]

The establishment of the [[Mughal Empire]], in the early 16th century, influenced some curries, especially in the north. Another influence was the establishment of the [[Portuguese India|Portuguese trading centre]] in [[Goa]] in 1510, resulting in the introduction of [[chili pepper]]s, tomatoes and potatoes to India from the Americas, as a byproduct of the [[Columbian Exchange]].<ref name="Batsha 2020">{{Cite web |last=Batsha |first=Nishant |author-link=Nishant Batsha |date=25 June 2020 |title=Curry Before Columbus |url=https://contingentmagazine.org/2020/06/25/curry-before-columbus/ |access-date=15 December 2020 |website=Contingent |archive-date=17 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210517012336/https://contingentmagazine.org/2020/06/25/curry-before-columbus/ |url-status=live}}</ref> The scholar of food culture [[Lizzie Collingham]] suggests that the Portuguese in [[Goa]] (in West India) heard and adopted words adopted into a local <!--Indo-Aryan--> language<!--presumably [[Konkani language|Konkani]], would need a source for that--> from the Dravidian words from South India, becoming ''caril'' or ''carree'' as transcribed by British travellers of the time. This adoption resulting eventually in curry's modern meaning of a dish, often spiced, in a sauce or gravy.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019">{{cite news |last1=Twilley |first1=Nicola |last2=Graber |first2=Cynthia |url=https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2019/04/why-we-call-indian-dishes-curry-colonial-history/586828/ |title=The Word Curry Came From a Colonial Misunderstanding |work=[[The Atlantic]] |date=20 April 2019 |access-date=10 May 2021 |archive-date=17 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210517012341/https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2019/04/why-we-call-indian-dishes-curry-colonial-history/586828/ |url-status=live }}</ref> In 1598, an English translation of a Dutch book about travel in the East Indies mentioned a "somewhat sour" broth called ''Carriel'', eaten with rice.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/> The later Dutch word {{lang|nl|karie}} was used in the [[Dutch East Indies]] from the 19th century; many Indians had by then migrated to Southeast Asia.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

=== British influence ===

{{further|Anglo-Indian cuisine}}

[[File:How Anglo-Indians made Curry.svg|thumb|center|upright=3|[[Anglo-Indian cuisine|Anglo-Indian cooks]] created what they called curry by selecting regional ingredients from all over [[British India]] using them in Indian dishes from other regions. [[Lizzie Collingham]] describes their taste as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British. Among their creations were  [[kedgeree]], and [[Madras curry]], which were served with [[chutney]]s, [[Pickling|pickle]]s, [[Bombay duck]], and [[poppadom]]s.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|pp=118–125, 140}}]]

Curry was introduced to [[English cuisine]] from [[Anglo-Indian cooking]] in the 17th century, as spicy sauces were added to plain boiled and cooked meats.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|p=115}} That cuisine was created in the [[British Raj]] when British wives or memsahibs instructed Indian cooks on the food they wanted, transforming many dishes in the process.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Anglo-Indian">{{harvnb|Davidson|2014|at="Anglo-Indian" pp. 21–22}}</ref> Further, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when there were few British women in India, British men often lived with Indian mistresses, acquiring the local customs, language, and food.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|pp=110–111}} Curry was first served in coffee houses in Britain from 1809.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8370054.stm |title=How Britain got the hots for curry |publisher=[[BBC]] |date=26 November 2009 |access-date=29 January 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160128165253/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8370054.stm |archive-date=28 January 2016 |url-status=live }}</ref>

Indian cooks in the 19th century prepared curries for their British masters simplified and adjusted to Anglo-Indian taste. For instance, a ''quarama'' from [[Lucknow]] contained (among other ingredients) ghee, yoghurt, cream, crushed almonds, cloves, cardamom, and saffron; whereas an 1869 Anglo-Indian ''quorema'' or ''korma'', "different in substance as well as name",{{sfn|Collingham|2006|pp=116–117}} had no cream, almonds, or saffron, but it added the then-standard British curry spices, namely coriander, ginger, and black peppercorns.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|pp=116–117}}<ref>{{cite book |author=Thirty-Five Years' Resident |chapter=Kurma or Quorema Curry |title=The Indian Cookery Book |date=1869 |publisher=Wyman & Co. |location=Calcutta |page=22 |chapter-url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=EvcpAAAAYAAJ&pg=GBS.PA22&hl=en_GB |quote=This, without exception, is one of the richest of Hindoostanee curries, but it is quite unsuited to European taste, if made according to the original recipe, of which the following is a [Europeanised] copy:}}</ref> Curry, initially understood as "an unfamiliar set of Indian stews and ragouts",{{sfn|Collingham|2006|p=118}} had become "a dish in its own right, created for the British in India".{{sfn|Collingham|2006|p=118}} Collingham describes the resulting Anglo-Indian cuisine as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|pp=118–125, 140}} Collingham writes that "The idea of a curry is, in fact, a concept that the Europeans imposed on India's food culture. Indians referred to their different dishes by specific names... But the British lumped all these together under the heading of curry.{{sfn|Collingham|2006|p=115}}

Elsewhere in the 19th century, curry was carried to the Caribbean by Indian [[indenture]]d workers in the British [[sugar industry]].<ref name="Mishan 2017"/><ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

=== Globalisation ===

Since the mid-20th century, curries of many national styles have become popular far from their origins, and increasingly become part of international [[fusion cuisine]].<ref name="Mishan 2017">{{cite news |last=Mishan |first=Ligaya |date=10 November 2017 |title=Asian-American Cuisine's Rise, and Triumph |work=[[The New York Times]] |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/10/t-magazine/asian-american-cuisine.html |access-date=29 March 2023 |archive-date=22 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230322223518/https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/10/t-magazine/asian-american-cuisine.html |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Alan Davidson (food writer)|Alan Davidson]] writes that curry's worldwide extension is a result of the [[Indian diaspora]] and [[Globalization|globalisation]], starting within the British Empire, and followed by economic migrants who brought Indian cuisine to many countries.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry">{{harvnb|Davidson|2014|at="Curry", p. 240}}</ref> In 1886, 咖喱 (''Gālí'') (Chinese pronunciation of "curry") appeared among the Chinese in Singapore.<ref name="Lim 1886">{{cite book |last=Lim |first=Hiong Seng |chapter=Provisions, Fish, Vegetable and Fruit |title=Handbook of the Swatow Vernacular |location=Singapore |publisher=Koh Yew Hean Press |date=1886 |page=95 |url=https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Page:Handbook_of_the_Swatow_vernacular.djvu/111}}</ref> [[Malaysian Chinese|Malay Chinese people]] then most likely brought curry to China.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

In India, spices are always freshly prepared for use in sauces.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Powder">{{harvnb|Davidson|2014|at="Curry Powder" p. 241}}</ref> Derived from such mixtures (but not containing curry leaves<ref name="Davidson 2014 Leaves">{{harvnb|Davidson|2014|at="Curry leaf" p. 240}}</ref>), [[curry powder]] is a ready-prepared spice blend first sold by Indian merchants to European colonial traders. This was commercially available from the late 18th century,<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.bl.uk/learning/timeline/item126721.html |title=First British advert for curry powder |website=bl.uk |access-date=29 December 2020 |url-status=dead |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210823180723/http://www.bl.uk/learning/timeline/item126721.html}}</ref><ref name="ChaudhuriStrobel1992">{{cite book |author1=Nupur Chaudhuri |author2=Margaret Strobel |title=Western Women and Imperialism: Complicity and Resistance |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-jH6LEPVn80C&pg=PA240 |year=1992 |publisher=[[Indiana University Press]] |isbn=0-253-20705-3 |pages=240– |access-date=29 December 2020 |archive-date=13 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230413123912/https://books.google.com/books?id=-jH6LEPVn80C&pg=PA240 |url-status=live }}</ref> with brands such as [[Crosse & Blackwell]] and [[Sharwood's]] persisting to the present.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/tv/inside-factory-tv-review-greg-wallace-curry-chicken-tikka-masala-a8489311.html |title=TV review: Inside the Factory lifts the lid on how our curries are made |date=15 August 2018 |website=[[The Independent]] |access-date=7 March 2021 |archive-date=17 October 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211017012043/https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/tv/inside-factory-tv-review-greg-wallace-curry-chicken-tikka-masala-a8489311.html |url-status=live }}</ref> British traders introduced the powder to [[Meiji era]] Japan, in the mid-19th century, where it became known as [[Japanese curry]].<ref name="Itoh 2011">{{Cite news |url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2011/08/26/food/curry-its-more-japanese-than-you-think/ |title=Curry — it's more 'Japanese' than you think |last=Itoh |first=Makiko |date=26 August 2011 |work=[[The Japan Times]] |language=en |access-date=19 May 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180108233344/https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2011/08/26/food/curry-its-more-japanese-than-you-think/ |archive-date=8 January 2018}}</ref>