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Drawn thread work
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==Techniques== [[Image:Hemstitch.jpg|right|thumb|Linen [[handkerchief]] decorated with three rows of hemstitching.]] [[File:Fig. 78 Open-work insertion.png|right|thumb|Openwork insertion with needle-weaving.]] [[File:Making Mexican Drawn Work, Mexico (NYPL b12647398-66708).tiff|thumb|Making Mexican drawn work, early 20th century]] ===Basic hemstitching=== The simplest kind of drawn thread work is [[hemstitch]]ing, which is often used to decorate the [[trim (sewing)|trimmings]] of [[clothing|clothes]] or household [[linen]]s. The transition from elaborate hemstitching to more advanced styles of drawn thread work is not clearly defined. ===Needle-weaving=== This relatively easy type of drawn thread work is created by weaving (or [[darning]]) the embroidering thread into the laid warp or weft threads to create patterns of light-colored threads and dark openings in the drawn-thread cloth. Needleweaving is most often used for decorative borders. It is nearly always used in combination with other types of embroidery stitches. Together they create a complete design and, historically, in ethnic embroidery, distinctive embroidery styles, also known as "needle-darning." [[File:Cover, Armenia, 18th century, Linen, silk, plain weave, embroidery (cross stitch), drawnwork lace, Honolulu Academy of Arts.jpg|thumb|Cover, Armenia, 18th century, Linen, silk, plain weave, embroidery (cross stitch), drawnwork lace, Honolulu Academy of Arts]] ===Other drawn-thread=== A form of double-drawnwork, where both warp and weft are removed at regular intervals, creating voided areas. These areas can be left as is or filled with needlelace or other elements. ===Styles=== ====Hardanger==== {{main|Hardanger embroidery}} [[Hardanger embroidery]] is a style of drawn thread work that is most popular today. It originally comes from [[Norway]], from the [[districts of Norway|traditional district]] of [[Hardanger]]. The backbone of Hardanger designs consists of [[satin stitch]]es. In geometrical areas both warp and weft threads are removed and the remaining mesh is secured with simple weaving or warping or with a limited number of simple filling patterns. The designs tend to be geometric, if they include flowers or such they are very stylized due to the nature of the technique. Hardanger never includes [[Buttonhole stitch]]es, except for securing the edges of a piece of fabric. It is usually executed using rather coarse fabric and thread. ====Ukrainian ==== There are many styles of Ukrainian drawn thread. In ''merezhka'' (drawn-work), threads of the ground cloth are cut only vertically. Vyrizuvannya ("cutwork") is often drawn in two directions. "Poltava-style" ''merezhka'' might be translated into English as "layerings".The technique for doing Poltava-style basically involves withdrawing sets of parallel threads of weft while leaving others in place, then using the antique hem-stitch (called ''prutyk'') and this special "layerings" technique to create both the openwork "net" and areas of solid needle-weaving <ref>{{cite book |last1=Stanton |first1=Yvette |title=Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery: Merezhka Poltavaska |date=2007 |publisher=Vetty Creations |location=Australia |isbn=978-0975767719}}</ref> ====Drawn-thread work with Needlelace==== [[Reticella]] lace is a form of embroidery in which typical techniques of [[needlelace]] are used to embellish drawn thread work. It was first used in 16th century [[Italy]]. Needlelace evolved from this when the lacemakers realized that they can do the same things without any supporting fabric. High quality reticella is done with thread almost as thin as sewing silk. [[Ruskin lace]] is in fact a near-modern form of it. Warp and weft threads are removed, and the remaining threads are overcast with [[buttonhole stitch]]es, as in needlelace. Another embroidery style that combines drawn thread work with needlelace techniques is [[hedebo embroidery|Hedebo]] from [[Denmark]], which originates from the area around [[Copenhagen]] and [[Roskilde]]. It uses techniques that are clearly distinct from reticella and traditional Italian needlelace on the one hand and Hardanger on the other. It does make extensive use of buttonhole stitches, but they are done slightly differently than in Italian embroidery.
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