Editing First ascent (section)

==In rock climbing==
[[Image:Adam Ondra climbing Silence 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 3.jpg|thumb|[[Adam Ondra]] making the first redpoint ascent of ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]'', the world's first {{climbing grade|9c}} sport climb.]]
In rock climbing, the manner in which the first free ascent was achieved became important to chronicle by climbing journals and magazines.  The key differentiators were the style on which the route was free climbed (e.g. [[traditional climbing]], [[sport climbing]], or [[free solo climbing]]), whether the free climb was done on the first attempt (e.g. [[onsight]]ed), and whether the climber had prior information (e.g. [[beta (climbing)|beta]]) on that first attempt.<ref name=CL2/><ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>

The most notable types of rock climbing first ascents that are chronicled are:

* First free ascent (traditional climbing only). Pre-1980s, the FFAs were by traditional climbing techniques. A distinction was recorded if a climber practiced the moves on a [[top roping|top rope]], called "[[headpoint|headpointing]]", although with the post-1980s dominance of "[[redpoint (climbing)|redpointing]]" as the definition of an FFA, such a distinction was dropped.{{efn|While headpointing was once considered a ''lesser form'' of first free ascent in traditional climbing (and an FFA that had been headpointed would be asterisked as such), leading traditional climbers eventually followed the redpointing practices of sport climbers (i.e. practicing the route over-and-over in a safe way), and dispensed with the stigma associated with headpointing.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | title=How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone | first=Mike | last=Huttom | date=3 November 2022 | accessdate=13 February 2023 | archive-date=28 August 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230828064122/https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | url-status=live }}</ref>  }}<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> FFAs that set new [[grade (climbing)|grade milestones]] are notable, for both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by women|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=4 January 2022 | archive-date=4 January 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220104131608/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | url-status=live }}</ref>

:* First greenpoint ascent (traditional climbing only).  In the 2010s, traditional climbers used [[Greenpoint (climbing)|greenpointing]] (as a counterpoint to a "redpoint"), to describe climbing a pre-bolted sport climbing route, but only using "traditional protection" (i.e. protection that is not permanently fixed via pre-placed bolts or pitons).<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/heiko-queitsch-greenpoint-climbing-in-the-frankenjura.html | title=Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura | date=3 August 2012 | accessdate=22 December 2022 | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190116/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/heiko-queitsch-greenpoint-climbing-in-the-frankenjura.html | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chasin-the-trane-greenpoint-in-the-frankenjura.html | date=7 November 2011 | accessdate=22 December 2022 | title=Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura | quote= | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190427/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chasin-the-trane-greenpoint-in-the-frankenjura.html | url-status=live }}</ref> [[Sonnie Trotter]]'s greenpoint of ''The Path'' (5.14a R, 2007), is a notable example.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/sonnie-trotter-finds-the-path-514-r-at-lake-louise-alberta-canada.html | title=Sonnie Trotter finds The Path 5.14 R at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada | date=23 August 2007 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=8 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230208235256/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/sonnie-trotter-finds-the-path-514-r-at-lake-louise-alberta-canada.html | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|last=Lambert|first=Erik|date=31 August 2007|title=Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Project|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop|access-date=8 February 2023|magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]]|archive-date=8 February 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230208233826/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop|url-status=live}}</ref>

* First redpoint ascent (sport climbing only).  In the 1980s, climbers wanted to ascend routes that had no opportunities for traditional climbing protection, and they had to be [[bolt (climbing)|pre-bolted]] with protection (but not aid), which was called sport climbing.  Sport climbing has since set all new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|grade milestones]] in rock climbing. The "[[redpoint (climbing)|redpoint]]" became the accepted definition for what determined a "first free ascent" in sport climbing.<ref name=GR1>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022 | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222142957/https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=CR1>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climber | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-a-redpoint-in-climbing/ | title=What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained | date=2 October 2020 | accessdate=1 January 2022}}</ref> 

[[File:Heinz Zak, Separate Reality 5,11d, Free Solo, Yosemite-Nationalpark, Kalifornien, USA.jpg|thumb|{{ill|Heinz Zak|de}} makes the first repeat [[free solo]] ascent of ''[[Separate Reality (climb)|Separate Reality]]'' in [[Yosemite]]]]

* First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing).  The grading of a route can be complicated as the person making the FFA had no prior information or [[beta (climbing)|beta]].  The first repeat is therefore [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|chronicled]] for confirmation of a grade, particularly when a new grade milestone is proposed. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g. ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' or ''[[Jumbo Love]]''), or even decades (e.g. ''{{ill|Open Air (climb)|lt=Open Air|de|Open Air (Kletterroute)}}'').

* First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing).  An FFA that was [[onsight]]ed, means it was done at the very first attempt, and without prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>  Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones of onsights both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/>  

:* First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). An FFA that was [[flash (climbing)|flash]]ed, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/> With the availability of route beta online (e.g. videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | title=Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean? | date=2 November 2022 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=28 January 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230128015604/https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

* First free solo ascent (independent of traditional or sport climbing).  [[Free solo]]ing is practiced by a smaller community of climbers and is a controversial area given the risks undertaken and whether such risks should be recorded and thus implicitly endorsed.<ref name=CFS/>  Free solo climbing [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-solo by men|grade milestones]] are chronicled,<ref name=PM/> the most notable being ''[[Free Solo]]'', the Oscar-winning film of [[Alex Honnold]]'s first free solo ascent of ''Freerider'' in [[Yosemite]].<ref name=CFS>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ | title=Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport | first=Alison | last=Osius | date=4 June 2022 | accessdate=26 November 2022 | archive-date=30 October 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221030032222/https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

===Gender===
[[File:Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg|thumb|[[Josune Bereziartu]] on the FFA and FFFA of ''Yeah Man'' (8b+ 5.14a, 300-metres, 9 pitches), on the Grand Pfad in Bern, Switzerland]]
* First female free ascent (abbreviated FFFA).<ref>{{cite journal | journal=[[American Alpine Journal]] | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199922702 | title=North America, United States, Nevada, Rainbow Wall, Various Activity | date=1999 | quote=A month later, Roxanna Brock teamed up with Bobbi Bensman to do the first female free ascent (FFFA) of the route in a day. | page=228 | volume=41 | issue=73 | access-date=2023-02-11 | archive-date=2023-02-11 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230211095248/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199922702 | url-status=live }}</ref>  Important female climbers emerged in the 1980s including [[Lynn Hill]] and [[Catherine Destivelle]] and climbing journals began to chronicle milestones in [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by women|female first free ascents]].<ref name=PM/> In some cases, an FFFA is also an FFA, the most [[History of rock climbing|famous example]] being Lynn Hill's 1993 FFA/FFFA of the 3,000-foot ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|Nose]]'' on [[El Capitan]] ([[Grade (climbing)|5.14a/b]]), considered the biggest prize in [[big wall climbing]], announced by Hill to the world's climbing media by: "It goes, boys".<ref name=OutsideUSA>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | date=1 June 2016 | access-date=4 December 2022 | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | author=Editorial | archive-date=4 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221204003915/https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | url-status=live }}</ref>  By the 2000s, [[Josune Bereziartu]], [[Angela Eiter]], and [[Ashima Shiraishi]] closed the gap to the highest sport climbing grades achieved by men to within one/two notches,<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=National Geographic | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/american-woman-reaches-a-new-milestone-in-rock-climbing | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220104202217/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/american-woman-reaches-a-new-milestone-in-rock-climbing | url-status=dead | archive-date=January 4, 2022 | date=1 March 2017 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | first=Andrew | last=Bishart | title=American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing}}</ref><ref name=CL1/> while [[Beth Rodden]] had fully closed the gap for traditional climbing.<ref name=CL1>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climbing| title=Can't Keep Her Down: A Consolidated History of Women's Climbing Achievements | first=Megan | last=Walsh | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/cant-keep-her-down-a-consolidated-history-of-womens-climbing-achievements/ | date=14 November 2017 | accessdate=29 January 2022 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220129204338/https://www.climbing.com/people/cant-keep-her-down-a-consolidated-history-of-womens-climbing-achievements/ |archive-date=29 January 2022 }}</ref>