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Johnny Dawes
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===Style=== Dawes had a uniquely dynamic technique, leaping between very small holds, and also for his levels of balance and foot-control that enable him to climb extreme-grade routes without using his hands.<ref name=SM/><ref name=GUAR5/> Welsh climber George Smith said: "His climbing seemed choreographed rather than constructed in a gym. If there's perfect pitch for movement, he has it".<ref name=SMR/> Aspects of his unique technique was captured in the 1986 climbing film, ''Stone Monkey'', considered one of the best-ever films in the genre,<ref name=SMR>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | first=Ed | last=Douglas | date=4 November 2011 | accessdate=9 January 2022 | url= https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/johnny_dawes_-_full_of_myself-4205 | title=Johnny Dawes - Full of Myself Review }}</ref> as well as the 2015 climbing series, ''No Handed Climbing'',<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/johnny-dawes-no-handed-climbing.html | title=Johnny Dawes no handed climbing | website=PlanetMountain.com | date=15 April 2015 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/no-handed-climbing/ | date=20 April 2021 | accessdate=12 January 2022 | title=Johnny Dawes: No Handed Climbing }}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/video-johnny-dawes-no-handed-climbing-2/ | date=20 April 2021 | accessdate=12 January 2022 | title=Video: Johnny Dawes No-Handed Climbing 2 }}</ref> and other "no-hands",<ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/johnny_dawes_-_full_of_myself-4205 | title=Hands free at the Roaches with Johnny Dawes | first=Nick | last=Brown | date=15 March 2019 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/watch-johnny-dawes-walk-five-pitch-5-5/ | title=Watch Johnny Dawes Walk-Up Five-Pitch 5.5 | date=30 November 2017 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref> and "no-feet" videos.<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/johnny-dawes-climbing-in-roller-blades/ | title=Johnny Dawes Climbing in Roller Blades | accessdate=12 January 2022 | date=5 May 2018}}</ref> His unorthodox climbing style, coupled with his reputation for a keen intellect and an artistic or [[Bohemianism|bohemian]] bent,<ref name=SMR/> made Dawes an enigmatic and mercurial character in British climbing.<ref name=PMI/><ref name=SAM/> His writing has been called "quirky, convoluted, and often obscure",<ref name=SMR/> and a tendency to "speak in riddles" earned him the titles of "nutty professor", and of "mad genius" from some commentators.<ref>{{cite news | newspaper=[[Irish Times]] | first=Michael | last=Sever | url=https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/stage/dancing-on-the-edge-of-vertigo-1.550687 | quote=The various approaches to rock climbers’ ever-present dilemmas evolve into schools of thought within climbing, with some adopting a highly physical approach and others, such as Johnny Dawes (the “nutty professor” of climbing), a more psychological approach. |date=11 October 2012 | accessdate=10 January 2022 | title=Dancing on the edge of vertigo}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climber Magazine | first=Neil | last=Graham | title=A Masterclass Beyond the Edge | date=January 2001 | accessdate=10 January 2022 | quote=No one doubts Johnny Dawes' radical and unorthodox approach to climbing; the problem is that few people understand it! The 'nutty professor' of modern climbing, who thinks in patterns and moves in waves is also renowned for speaking in riddles | url=http://indoorsout.co.uk/index.htm#climb_dawes_coach.htm}}</ref><ref name=PR>{{cite book | title=Peak Rock – The History, The Routes, The Climbers | first1=Phil |last1=Kelly | first2=Graham | last2=Hoey | first3=Giles | last3=Barker | date=2013 | publisher=Vertebrate Graphics Limited | isbn=978-1906148720}}</ref> His approach also made it difficult to secure commercial sponsorship, with Dawes saying in a 2019 interview, "I wasn’t supported by the climbing industry because I didn't fit the commercial template".<ref>{{cite web | website=JohnHorscroft | title=Interview with Johnny Dawes | url=http://www.johnhorscroft.co.uk/portfolio/climbing/-/johnny-dawes-a-storm-in-a-teacup/ | date=6 February 2019 | accessdate=11 January 2022}}</ref>
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