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Lockstitch
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==Geometry== The geometry of the lockstitch is controlled by the presence or absence of: * sideways movements of the machine's needle * backwards movements of the machine's feed dogs In older machines, the needle and feed motion are controlled by mechanical cams. Some modern household machines offer a slot for user-replaceable custom stitch cams. In more recent designs, the needle and feed motion are directly motorized. ===Straight=== Straight stitch geometry is produced when the needle has no sideways movements and when the feed dogs are following only in the normal forward "four motion" movement. Because its two threads run straight and parallel, a straight stitch is not natively stretchable. ===Zigzag=== Zigzag stitch geometry is produced when the needle moves rhythmically side to side while stitching, while the feed dogs are following only in the normal forward "four motion" movement. Most lockstitch machines made after the 1960s are capable of doing this; older machines achieve the same stitch with a specialist presser foot which moves the fabric beneath the stationary needle. Zigzag stitches are used when a stretchable stitch is required, such as when sewing stretchy fabrics. {{main|Zigzag stitch}} ====Blind==== Blind stitch geometry is a derivative of the zigzag. It is created in the same manner, except that the needle zigs to the side and then zags back only once every fourth or fifth stitch. It is used to reduce the visibility of hems and other seam edges. {{main|Zigzag stitch#Blind stitch}} ===Stretch=== Stretch stitch geometry is specifically for stretchability. While the needle is moving, as for straight or zigzag stitches, the feed dogs automatically move the fabric forward and backward. As with zigzag stitches, stretch stitching is controlled by mechanical cams, but because of the dual action, stretch stitch machines have ''double'' cams. As the double cam rotates, the first follower rides along one track to move the needle bar from side to side, while the second follower rides along a different track to move the feed dogs forward and reverse.<ref>''Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing''. Pleasantville, New York: The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., 32-36.</ref> ===Decorative=== By adding controlled motion of the material being sewn through an additional set of motors, arbitrary customized patterns of 100 cm or more in each direction can be sewn, opening the door to the very popular category of programmable household embroidery machines.
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