Editing Skinhead (section)

===Origins and first wave===
In the late 1950s the post-war [[boom and bust|economic boom]] led to an increase in [[disposable income]] among many young people. Some of those youths spent that income on new fashions; they wore ripped clothes and would use pieces of material to patch them up as popularised by American [[soul music|soul]] groups, British [[Rhythm and blues|R&B]] bands, certain film actors, and [[Carnaby Street]] clothing merchants.<ref name="Mods">{{Cite book |last=Rawlings |first=Terry |title=Mod: A Very British Phenomenon |publisher=Omnibus Press |year=2000 |isbn=978-0-7119-68134 |location=London}}</ref> These youths became known as [[Mod (subculture)|mods]], a youth subculture noted for its [[consumerism]] and devotion to fashion, music, and [[scooter (motorcycle)|scooters]].<ref name="Mods 2">{{Cite book |last=Barnes |first=Richard |title=Mods! |publisher=Eel Pie Publishing Ltd. |year=1979 |isbn=978-0-85965-173-8 |location=London}}</ref>

Working class mods chose practical clothing styles that suited their lifestyle and employment circumstances: work [[boot]]s or [[combat boot|army boots]], straight-leg [[jeans]] or Sta-Prest [[trousers]], button-down shirts, and braces. When possible, these working class mods spent their money on suits and other sharp outfits to wear at dancehalls, where they enjoyed [[Soul music|soul]], [[ska]], and [[rocksteady]] music.{{sfn|Brown|2004}}<ref name="Mod music">{{Cite AV media notes |last=Edwards |first=Dave |title=Trojan Mod Reggae Box Set |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD020 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref>

Around 1966, a [[Schism (religion)|schism]] developed between the "peacock mods" (also known as ''smooth mods''), who were less violent and always wore the latest expensive clothes, and the "hard mods" (also known as "gang mods", "lemonheads" or "peanuts"), who were identified by their shorter hair and more working class image.<ref name="skinheads">{{Cite AV media notes |last=Old Skool Jim |title=Trojan Skinhead Reggae Box Set |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD169 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref> ''Hard mods'' became commonly known as skinheads by about 1968.<ref name="skinheads 2">{{Cite book |last=Marshall |first=George |title=Spirit of '69 – A Skinhead Bible |publisher=S.T. Publishing |year=1991 |isbn=978-1-898927-10-5 |location=Dunoon, Scotland}}</ref> Their short hair may have come about for practical reasons, since long hair could be a liability in industrial jobs and streetfights. Skinheads may also have cut their hair short in defiance of the more middle class [[hippie]] culture.<ref name="autogenerated9">{{Cite magazine |date=8 June 1970 |title=Britain: The Skinheads |url=http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130521073648/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,909318,00.html?promoid=googlep |archive-date=21 May 2013 |access-date=23 May 2010 |magazine=Time}}</ref>

In addition to retaining many mod influences, early skinheads were very interested in Jamaican [[rude boy]] styles and culture, especially the music: ska, rocksteady, and early [[reggae]] (before the [[tempo]] slowed down and lyrics became focused on topics like [[black nationalism]] and the [[Rastafari movement]]).{{sfn|Brown|2004}}<ref name="Smash">{{Cite web |title=Smiling Smash: An Interview with Cathal Smyth, a.k.a Chas Smash, of Madness |url=http://ska.about.com/musicperform/ska/library/1999/aa081699a.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20010219175613/http://ska.about.com/musicperform/ska/library/1999/aa081699a.htm |archive-date=19 February 2001 |access-date=31 August 2010}}</ref><ref name="autogenerated3">{{Cite web |last=de Koningh |first=Michael |title=Reggae In Your Jeggae: The Phenomonen of the Skinhead Movement and Reggae Music |url=http://www.reggaereggaereggae.com/Special%20Articles.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081217000127/http://www.reggaereggaereggae.com/Special%20Articles.htm |archive-date=17 December 2008 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Reggaereggaereggae.com}}</ref>

Skinhead culture became so popular by 1969 that even the rock band [[Slade]] temporarily adopted the look as a marketing strategy.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Straight From His Own Gob{{snd}} Noddy Holder interview |url=http://www.soundchecks.co.uk/articles/noholder.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20050405014451/http://www.soundchecks.co.uk/articles/noholder.html |archive-date=5 April 2005 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Soundchecks.co.uk |df=dmy-all}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Ambrose Slade: The Wolverhampton group that became Slade |url=http://www.brumbeat.net/aslade.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120813034234/http://www.brumbeat.net/aslade.htm |archive-date=13 August 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Brumbeat.net}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=h2g2{{snd}} Slade{{snd}} the band |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A454925 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090505164615/http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A454925 |archive-date=5 May 2009 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=BBC}}</ref> The subculture gained wider notice because of a series of violent and sexually explicit novels by [[James Moffat (author)|Richard Allen]], notably ''Skinhead'' and ''Skinhead Escapes''.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Mean Streets |first=Jon |title=Joe Hawkins: Not just an Oppressed-song |url=http://www.skinhead.no/content/articles/richardallen.asp |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070505014805/http://www.skinhead.no/content/articles/richardallen.asp |archive-date=5 May 2007 |access-date=11 April 2007 |df=dmy-all}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=British Hell's Angel and Skinhead novels of the 1970s |url=http://www.stewarthomesociety.org/sex/gensexco.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120420200942/http://www.stewarthomesociety.org/sex/gensexco.htm |archive-date=20 April 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Stewarthomesociety.org}}</ref> Due to largescale British migration to [[Perth]], [[Western Australia]], many British youths in that city joined skinhead/[[sharpies (Australian subculture)|sharpies]] gangs in the late 1960s and developed their own Australian style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Sharpies&nbsp;— Cult Gangs of the Sixties and Seventies |url=http://www.abc.net.au/dimensions/dimensions_in_time/Transcripts/s508106.htm |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080924024911/http://www.abc.net.au/dimensions/dimensions_in_time/Transcripts/s508106.htm |archive-date=24 September 2008 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Abc.net.au}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Arts & Culture – ABC News |url=https://www.abc.net.au/news/arts-culture/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081029203605/http://www.abc.net.au/arts/visual/stories/sharpies_index.htm |archive-date=29 October 2008 |website=www.abc.net.au}}</ref>

By the early 1970s, the skinhead subculture started to fade from popular culture, and some of the original skins dropped into new categories, such as the ''[[Suedehead (subculture)|suedeheads]]'' (defined by the ability to manipulate one's hair with a comb), ''smoothies'' (often with shoulder-length hairstyles), and ''bootboys'' (with mod-length hair; associated with gangs and [[football hooliganism]]).<ref name="skinheads 2" /><ref name="autogenerated9" /><ref name="Suedeheads">{{Cite AV media notes |last=de Konigh |first=Michael |title=Suedehead Reggae Box Set |date=2004 |publisher=Trojan Records |id=TJETD003 |type=Liner notes |location=London}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Suedeheads |url=http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suedeheads |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120604084818/http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suedeheads |archive-date=4 June 2012 |access-date=31 August 2010 |publisher=Film Noir Buff}}</ref> Some fashion trends returned to the mod roots, with [[brogues]], [[loafers]], suits, and the [[Trousers|slacks]]-and-[[sweater]] look making a comeback.