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Tenzing Norgay
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==Mountaineering== [[File:Statue of Tenzing Norgay at Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.jpg|thumb|right|Statue of Norgay at the [[Himalayan Mountaineering Institute]]]] [[File:Everest North Face toward Base Camp Tibet Luca Galuzzi 2006 edit 1.jpg|thumb|[[Mount Everest]]]] Norgay received his first opportunity to join an Everest expedition at age 20, when [[Eric Shipton]] was assembling the [[1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition]]. After two other prospective team members failed their medical tests, Norgay was pushed forward by his friend [[Ang Tharkay]], a Sherpa ''[[Sardar#Modern usage|sirdar]]'' who had been on the [[1933 British Mount Everest expedition]]. His attractive smile caught the eye of Shipton, who decided to take him on.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Shipton |first=Eric |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=05QTCgAAQBAJ&q=His+name+was+Tensing+Norkay%E2%80%94or+Tensing+Bhotia |title=That Untravelled World: An Autobiography |date=2015-02-24 |publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=978-1-59485-898-7 |language=en |access-date=11 July 2023 |archive-date=28 August 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230828072053/https://books.google.com/books?id=05QTCgAAQBAJ&q=His+name+was+Tensing+Norkay%E2%80%94or+Tensing+Bhotia |url-status=live }}</ref> Norgay participated as a high-altitude porter in three official British attempts to climb Everest from the northern [[Tibet]]an side in the 1930s.<ref name="Ullman" /> On the [[1936 British Mount Everest expedition|1936 expedition]], he worked with [[John Morris (anthropologist)|John Morris]]. He also took part in other climbs in various parts of the Indian subcontinent. For a time in the early 1940s, Norgay lived in the [[princely state]] of [[Chitral]] (then in India, later a part of [[Pakistan]]) as [[batman (military)|batman]] to a Major Chapman. Norgay's first wife died and was buried there during his sojourn in the state. He returned to Darjeeling with his two daughters during the [[partition of India|Indian partition]] of 1947, and managed to cross India by train without a ticket and without being challenged by wearing one of Major Chapman's old uniforms.<ref name="Ullman" /> In 1947, Norgay participated in an unsuccessful summit attempt of Everest. The Canadian-born mountaineer [[Earl Denman]], Ange Dawa Sherpa, and Norgay entered Tibet illegally to attempt the climb, an attempt which ended when a strong storm hit at {{convert|22000|ft}}. Denman admitted defeat, and all three turned around, returning safely.<ref name="Ullman" /> In 1947, Norgay became a ''sirdar'' of a Swiss expedition for the first time after having helped to rescue Sirdar Wangdi Norbu, who had fallen and been seriously injured. The expedition reached the main summit of [[Kedarnath (mountain)|Kedarnath]] at {{convert|22769|ft}} in the western [[Garhwal division|Garhwal]] [[Himalayas|Himalaya]] with Norgay among the summit party.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Isserman |first1=Maurice |last2=Weaver |first2=Stewart |title=Fallen Giants : A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes |date=2008 |publisher=Yale University Press |location=New Haven |isbn=9780300115017 |edition=1 |page=[https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse/page/236 236] |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse/page/236 }}</ref> In 1951 he joined the [[1951 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Shipton |first1=Eric |title=That Untravelled World |date=1969 |publisher=Hodder and Staunton |pages=190β199, 97 |url=https://archive.org/details/thatuntravelledw0000eric/page/190/mode/1up?q=tensing|isbn=9780340216095}}</ref>
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