Editing Cassock (section)

=== Latin Catholic ===
[[File:Prospero Caterini.jpg|thumb|right| Cardinal [[Prospero Caterini]] 1795–1881]]
[[File:Missione del Guaricano-cardinale Tarcisio Bertone.jpg|thumb|right|Cardinal [[Tarcisio Bertone]] wearing a tropical white cassock trimmed in cardinalatial scarlet in [[Santo Domingo]], [[Dominican Republic]]]]
[[File:SANGUIS-Brvgensis AD2015 2.jpg|thumb|right|During procession the cassock is prescribed for high clergy]]
The cassock (or soutane) comes in a number of styles or [[cut (clothing)|cuts]], though no particular symbolism attaches to these. A [[Rome|Roman]] cassock often has a series of buttons down the front. In some English-speaking countries these buttons may be merely ornamental, with a concealed fly-front buttoning, known as a Chesterfield front, used to fasten the garment. A French cassock also has buttons sewn to the sleeves after the manner of a [[Suit (clothes)|suit]], and a slightly broader skirt. An [[Ambrosian Rite|Ambrosian]] cassock has a series of only five buttons under the neck, with a sash on the waist. A [[Society of Jesus|Jesuit]] cassock, in lieu of buttons, has a fly fastened with hooks at the collar and is bound at the waist with a cincture knotted on the right side.

The ordinary Roman cassock worn by Roman Catholic clerics (as distinct from that worn as choir dress) is black except in tropical countries, where because of the heat it is white and usually without shoulder cape ([[pellegrina]]). Coloured [[Piping (sewing)|piping]] and buttons are added in accordance with rank: black for priests, purple for [[Chaplain of His Holiness|chaplains of His Holiness]]; amaranth red for [[Bishop (Catholicism)|bishops]], [[Protonotary apostolic|protonotaries apostolic]] and [[Honorary Prelate]]s; and scarlet red for [[Cardinal (Catholicism)|cardinals]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fiu.edu/~mirandas/instruction69.htm |title=Instruction on the Dress, Titles and Coats-of-Arms of Cardinals, Bishops and Lesser Prelates, 28 March 1969 |publisher=Fiu.edu |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-date=2 June 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170602003150/http://www.fiu.edu/~mirandas/instruction69.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>

The 1969 Instruction on the dress of prelates stated that for all of them, even cardinals, the dress for ordinary use may be a simple black cassock without coloured trim.<ref>Instruction, 5 and 14{{full citation needed|date=April 2024}}</ref>

A band cincture or sash, known also as a [[Fascia (vestment)|fascia]], may be worn with the cassock. The Instruction on the dress of prelates specifies that the two ends that hang down by the side have silk fringes, abolishing the sash with tassels.<ref>Instruction, 3, 15, 18, 19{{full citation needed|date=April 2024}}</ref> A black faille fascia is worn by priests, deacons, and major seminarians, while a purple faille fascia is used by bishops, protonotaries apostolic, honorary prelates, and chaplains of His Holiness, when wearing a cassock with coloured trim. A black watered-silk fascia is permitted for priests attached to the [[papal household]], a purple watered-silk fascia for bishops attached to the papal household (for example, [[Apostolic Nuncio]]s), and a scarlet watered-silk fascia for cardinals. The Pope wears a white watered-silk fascia, sometimes with his coat of arms on the ends.

In [[choir dress]], chaplains of His Holiness wear their purple-trimmed black cassocks with a [[Surplice|cotta]], but bishops, protonotaries apostolic, and honorary prelates use (with a cotta or, in the case of bishops, a [[rochet]] and [[mozzetta]]) cassocks that are fully purple (this purple corresponds more closely with a Roman purple and is approximated as fuchsia) with scarlet trim, while those of cardinals are fully scarlet with scarlet trim. Cardinals have the additional distinction of having both choir cassock sleeves and the fascia made of scarlet watered-silk. The ''cut'' of the choir cassock is still a Roman-cut or French-cut Roman cassock.

In the past, a cardinal's cassock was made entirely of watered silk, with a train that could be fastened at the back of the cassock. This train was abolished by the ''[[motu proprio]]'' ''Valde solliciti''  of [[Pope Pius XII]] with effect from 1 January 1953.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www2.fiu.edu/~mirandas/valde.htm |title=''Valde solliciti'', I |publisher=.fiu.edu |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304060557/http://www2.fiu.edu/~mirandas/valde.htm |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref> With the same ''motu proprio'', the Pope ordered that the violet cassock (then used in penitential periods and in mourning) be made of wool, not silk,<ref>''Valde solliciti'', III</ref> and in February 1965, under Pope Paul VI, a circular of the Sacred Ceremonial Congregation abolished the use of watered silk also for the red cassock.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www2.fiu.edu/~mirandas/guide-xx.htm |title=The Cardinals of the Holy Roman Church: Guide to documents and events |publisher=.fiu.edu |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151026202321/http://www2.fiu.edu/~mirandas/guide-xx.htm |archive-date=26 October 2015 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

An elbow-length shoulder cape, open in front, is sometimes worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable. It is known as a [[pellegrina]]. It is distinct from the mozzetta, which is buttoned in front and is worn over a [[rochet]].

The general rule of the Roman Catholic Church is that the pellegrina may be worn with the cassock by cardinals and bishops.<ref name=pellegrina>Instruction on the Dress, Titles and Coats-of-Arms of Cardinals, Bishops and Lesser Prelates, 28 March 1969, 2 and 14</ref> In 1850, the year in which he [[Universalis Ecclesiae|restored the Catholic hierarchy]] in England and Wales, [[Pope Pius IX]] was understood to grant to all priests there the privilege of wearing a replica in black of his own white caped cassock.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.catholic-history.org.uk/nwchs/plumb/glossary.html |title=England & Wales 1550–1850, s.v. "Clerical dress" |publisher=Catholic History |date=12 November 1918 |access-date=25 August 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131021024031/http://www.catholic-history.org.uk/nwchs/plumb/glossary.html |archive-date=21 October 2013 }}</ref> Since then, the wearing of the pellegrina with the cassock has been a sign of a Roman Catholic priest in England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, although sometimes imitated by Anglican priests.

In his 1909 book, ''Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church'', John Abel Felix Prosper Nainfa proposed<ref name="google">{{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ILddVVSkGx8C&dq=nainfa+%22adopting+the+English+word+simar%22&pg=PA47 | title=Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church: According to Roman Etiquette | isbn=9785881504113 | last1=Nainfa | first1=John Abel | year=1909 | publisher=John Murphy | access-date=30 March 2023 | archive-date=20 April 2024 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240420122002/https://books.google.com/books?id=ILddVVSkGx8C&dq=nainfa+%22adopting+the+English+word+simar%22&pg=PA47#v=onepage&q=nainfa%20%22adopting%20the%20English%20word%20simar%22&f=false | url-status=live }}</ref> the use of the English word "[[simar]]", instead of the word "cassock", for the garment with shoulder cape, which he treated as distinct from the cassock proper. Others too have made the same distinction between the "simar" (with pellegrina) and the "cassock" (without), but many scholars disagree with Nainfa's distinction.<ref name=McNamara>{{cite web |url=http://www.ewtn.com/library/liturgy/zlitur444.htm |title=Edward McNamara, "Birettas and Academic Hats at Mass" |publisher=Ewtn.com |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-date=14 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714182248/http://www.ewtn.com/library/liturgy/zlitur444.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> More particularly, documents of the [[Holy See]] make no such distinction, using the term ''cassock'' or ''vestis talaris'' whether a pellegrina is attached or is not. Thus the 1969 instruction states that, for cardinals and bishops, "the elbow-length cape, trimmed in the same manner as this ''cassock'', may be worn over it".<ref name=pellegrina/> ''Cassock'', rather than ''simar'', is the term that is usually applied to the dress of Popes and other Catholic ecclesiastics. The instruction also gives no support to Nainfa's claim that the cassock with shoulder cape should not be worn in church services, which moreover would be of difficult application, since the cassock with pellegrina is generally made as a single garment, with a non-detachable pellegrina.

Nainfa wrote that at that time the garment with shoulder cape was in Italian called a ''zimarra'', a term, however, that in that language is today used rather of a historical loose-fitting overgown, quite unlike the close-fitting cassock with pellegrina worn by Catholic clergy,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://threadwalker.net/16c-italian-intro.html#timeline |title=Italy in the 16th century |publisher=Threadwalker.net |access-date=25 August 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120325011613/http://threadwalker.net/16c-italian-intro.html |archive-date=25 March 2012 }}</ref><ref>[[:it:Zimarra|zimarra]]{{Circular reference|date=October 2022}}</ref> and similar to the fur-lined {{ill|Schaube|de|vertical-align=sup}} that was used in northern Europe.<ref>[[:de:Zimarra|Zimarra]]{{Circular reference|date=October 2022}}</ref><ref>[[commons:Category:Schaube|images in Wikimedia Commons]]</ref> Images of the historical zimarra as worn by women can be seen at "Dressing the Italian Way"<ref>{{cite web |url=http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/italian.html |title=Dressing the Italian way |publisher=Aneafiles.webs.com |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110404062750/http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/italian.html |archive-date=4 April 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> and "The Italian Showcase".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2008/Chris.htm |title=The Italian Showcase – Chris at the Realm of Venus |publisher=Realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net |access-date=25 August 2014 |archive-date=12 March 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150312090421/http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2008/Chris.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>

In cold weather, the manto, an ankle-length cape with or without shoulder cape, or the [[greca (clothing)|greca]], also known as the douillette, an ankle-length double-breasted overcoat, is traditionally worn over the cassock. For bishops and priests both the manto and greca are solid black in colour, while for the pope the manto is red and the greca is white.

<gallery widths="160" heights="160">
File:Cassock (Pope).svg|Pope<br /><small>(Always with [[pellegrina]]. However, Benedict XVI discontinued the pellegrina upon becoming pope emeritus.)</small>
File:Cassock (Cardinal).svg|Cardinal<br /><small>(Often with pellegrina.)</small>
File:Cassock (Catholic Bishop).svg|Bishop<br /><small>(Often with pellegrina.)</small>
File:Cassock (Chaplain of His Holiness).svg|Chaplain of His Holiness, Protonary Apostolic, or Honorary Prelate
File:Cassock (Catholic Priest).svg|Priest, Deacon, or Seminarian
</gallery>