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Doug Scott
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=== Mountaineering === Scott was considered one of the world's leading high-altitude and big-wall climbers<ref>{{Cite web|title=Piolets d'Or - 2011 - Doug Scott|url=https://pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/the-lifetime-achievement-award/21-po-carriere/liste-po-carriere/21-2011-doug-scott|access-date=21 October 2020|website=pioletsdor.net|archive-date=23 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201023023848/https://pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/the-lifetime-achievement-award/21-po-carriere/liste-po-carriere/21-2011-doug-scott|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=Schaufele|first=Tim|date=18 October 2018|title=Vancouver International Film Festival: Interview with Legendary Alpinist Doug Scott|url=https://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/vancouver-international-film-festival-interview-with-legendary-alpinist-doug-scott/|access-date=21 October 2020|website=Squamish Climbing Magazine|language=en|archive-date=24 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201024195302/https://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/vancouver-international-film-festival-interview-with-legendary-alpinist-doug-scott/|url-status=live}}</ref> and was the recipient of numerous awards for his achievements.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Scott|first=Doug|date=November 2010|title=Awards and Recognition in Climbing|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%2073-83%20Scott%20Awards.pdf|journal=Alpine Journal|volume=11-2010|pages=73β83|access-date=21 October 2020|archive-date=23 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201023060015/https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%2073-83%20Scott%20Awards.pdf|url-status=live}}</ref> He was the first English person to reach the summit of [[Mount Everest]] and, on the descent, he survived an unplanned bivouac with [[Dougal Haston]] 100 metres below the summit, without oxygen, sleeping bags and, as it turned out, without [[frostbite]].<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|title=Doug Scott, Leading Alpinist and Survivor of Highest Open Bivy on Everest, Dies at 79|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/doug-scott-leading-alpinist-and-survivor-of-highest-open-bivy-on-everest-dies-at-79/|access-date=8 December 2020|website=Rock and Ice|date=7 December 2020|language=en-US|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071146/https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/doug-scott-leading-alpinist-and-survivor-of-highest-open-bivy-on-everest-dies-at-79/|url-status=live}}</ref> Apart from his [[1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition|first ascent of the southwest face of Everest]] with Haston in 1975, all his other Himalayan climbs were achieved in lightweight or pure [[Alpine style]]. He pioneered [[big wall climbing]] on [[Baffin Island]], [[Mount Kenya]] and in the [[Karakoram]], famously on the "fearsome Karakoram peak" [[Baintha Brakk|The Ogre]] in Pakistan with [[Chris Bonington]], and later on [[Shivling (mountain)|Shivling]] in the [[Indian Himalayan Region|Indian Himalayas]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=10 November 2018|title=Watch Doug Scott Talk About Surviving Ogre and Everest|url=https://gripped.com/profiles/watch-doug-scott-talk-surviving-ogre-everest/|access-date=8 December 2020|website=Gripped Magazine|language=en-US|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071159/https://gripped.com/profiles/watch-doug-scott-talk-surviving-ogre-everest/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=":4">{{Cite news |last=Douglas |first=Ed |date=2020-12-07 |title=Doug Scott obituary |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/dec/07/doug-scott-obituary |access-date=2025-04-09 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077}}</ref> [[Abseiling]] from the summit of The Ogre, Scott slipped and broke both his legs at 7,200 metres. With rescue not a possibility at that height, Scott crawled on his knees back to base camp through a storm, on a mountain of considerable difficulty, helped down by his teammates Mo Anthoine and Clive Rowland. It remains one of the great survival stories in world mountaineering.<ref name=":4" /> Scott was a founder member of the Nottingham Climbers Club (1961), president of the Alpine Climbing Group (1976β82), vice president of the [[British Mountaineering Council]] (1994β97) and president of the [[Alpine Club (UK)|Alpine Club]] (1999β2001).<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=Biographical {{!}} Doug Scott Mountaineering|url=https://www.dougscottmountaineering.co.uk/biographical/|access-date=8 December 2020|language=en-GB|archive-date=26 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201026173349/https://www.dougscottmountaineering.co.uk/biographical/|url-status=live}}</ref> He was made a [[Order of the British Empire|CBE]] in 1994.<ref name=":1" /> In 1999 he was awarded the [[Patron's Medal]] of the [[Royal Geographical Society]].<ref>{{Cite web|title=Doug Scott, Titan of British mountaineering, dies|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/doug-scott-titan-of-british-mountaineering-dies|access-date=8 December 2020|website=www.thebmc.co.uk|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071148/https://www.thebmc.co.uk/doug-scott-titan-of-british-mountaineering-dies|url-status=live}}</ref> In 2005 he was presented with the Golden Eagle Award by the [[Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild]].<ref>{{Cite web|title=The OWPG - Words and Pictures from the Outdoors|url=https://myoutdoors.co.uk/industry-news/the-owpg-words-and-pictures-from-the-outdoors|access-date=8 December 2020|website=myoutdoors.co.uk|language=en-GB|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071155/https://myoutdoors.co.uk/industry-news/the-owpg-words-and-pictures-from-the-outdoors|url-status=live}}</ref> Also in 2005, following on from [[Tom Weir]] and [[Adam Watson (scientist)|Adam Watson]], he became the third recipient of the [[John Muir Trust|John Muir Trust Lifetime Achievement Award]] in recognition of his mountaineering accomplishments and commitment to conservation and supporting [[Hill people|mountain people]] and mountain environments around the world.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Trust gives Lifetime Achievement Award to US environmental campaigner|url=https://www.johnmuirtrust.org/latest/news/1415-trust-gives-lifetime-achievement-award-to-us-environmental-campaigner|access-date=8 December 2020|website=John Muir Trust|language=en|archive-date=27 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180627151814/https://www.johnmuirtrust.org/latest/news/1415-trust-gives-lifetime-achievement-award-to-us-environmental-campaigner|url-status=live}}</ref> Following on from [[Walter Bonatti]] and [[Reinhold Messner]] he received the [[Piolet d'Or]] Lifetime Achievement Award in Chamonix in 2011.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D2%26keyid=37989|access-date=8 December 2020|website=PlanetMountain.com|language=en|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071158/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/piolet-dor-2011-the-nominations-doug-scott-receives-lifetime-achievement-and-all-the-evenings.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Scott was made a Freeman of the City of Nottingham in 1976 and has since had a Nottingham tram named after him.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Honorary Freemen and Freemen|url=https://www.nottinghamcity.gov.uk/your-council/about-the-council/nottingham-council-house/honorary-freemen-and-freemen/|access-date=21 October 2020|website=Nottinghamcity.gov.uk|language=en|archive-date=8 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201208071155/https://www.nottinghamcity.gov.uk/your-council/about-the-council/nottingham-council-house/honorary-freemen-and-freemen/|url-status=live}}</ref> He was awarded an honorary MA by the universities of Nottingham and Loughborough, 1993; Hon. MEd Nottingham Trent, 1995; Hon Dr. Derby University, 2007;<ref>{{Cite web|title=Honorary Graduates|url=https://www.derby.ac.uk/about/honorary-awards/honorands/|access-date=21 October 2020|website=Derby.ac.uk|language=en-GB|archive-date=20 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201020030652/https://www.derby.ac.uk/about/honorary-awards/honorands/|url-status=live}}</ref> and Hon Dr. Loughborough University, 2017.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Honorary Loughborough degree for mountaineer who conquered the Ogre with two broken legs|url=https://www.lboro.ac.uk/media-centre/press-releases/2017/july/doug-scott-degree/|access-date=21 October 2020|website=Loughborough University|language=en|archive-date=28 July 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170728161130/http://www.lboro.ac.uk/media-centre/press-releases/2017/july/doug-scott-degree/|url-status=live}}</ref>
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