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== Production methods == {{Main|Textile manufacturing|Textile industry}} Textile manufacturing has progressed from prehistoric crafts to a fully automated industry.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p={{pn|date=January 2025}}}} Over the years, there have been continuous improvements in fabric structure and design.{{sfn|Birrell|1973|p={{pn|date=January 2025}}}} {| class="wikitable" |+Production methods !Production method !Description !Inventors, inventions and milestones in progression ! |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Barkcloth]] |Barkcloth is made by pounding bark until it is soft and flat.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Veys |first=Fanny Wonu |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lCytDQAAQBAJ |title=Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth: Encounters, Creativity and Female Agency |date=26 January 2017 |publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing |isbn=978-1-4742-8331-1 |language=en}}</ref>{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=245}} |Bark is an older known fabric; ancient people around the world wore bark cloth daily until woven fabrics replaced it. In [[Indonesia]], the bark cloth is associated with the [[Torajan people]], who made it from the fermentation of inner bark of certain local trees, mulberry and pandanus. The Torajans used stones and wooden beaters to produce bark cloth.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Warming |first=Wanda |url=http://archive.org/details/worldofindonesia0000warm_v5j5 |title=The world of Indonesian textiles |date=1981 |location=Tokyo; New York |publisher= Kodansha International |isbn=978-0-87011-432-8 |pages=56}}</ref> |[[File:Barkcloth dress of Lore Bada, Central Sulawesi.jpg|thumb|center|Barkcloth dress of Lore Bada people in Lore Valley, Poso Regency, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. This collection of Central Sulawesi Museum was exhibited in Textile Museum Jakarta in November 2016.]] |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Felt]] and other [[Nonwoven fabric|nonwoven]] fabrics |Felting is a method of manufacturing fabric directly from fibers by entangling, interlocking the fibers by mechanical action (like rubbing and pressing) and often aided by heat and moisture.{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=245}} |Felting is another old method of fabric manufacturing. While civilizations in the [[Mediterranean Sea|western Mediterranean]] improved their weaving skills, [[nomad]]s in Central Asia learned how to make felt, a non-woven material, from wool.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=5}}{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=245}} Felting involves applying pressure and friction to a mat of fibers, working and rubbing them together until the fibers become interlocked and tangled, forming a nonwoven textile. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibers, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=245}} More recently, additional methods have been developed to bond fibers into nonwoven fabrics, including needle punching, adhesives, and chemical binding.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=5}}{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=245}}{{sfn|Chapman|2010|p={{pn|date=January 2025}}}} |[[File:Kazah jurta.jpg|thumb|center|[[Kazakhs|Kazakh]] felt [[yurt]]]] [[File:Spunbond.jpg|center|thumb|Spunbond nonwoven fabric]] |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Weaving]] |Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer [[Yarn|threads]] (called the [[warp (weaving)|warp]]) with a set of crossing threads (called the [[weft]]). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanized.{{sfn|Birrell|1973|pp=1–14}} |Handlooms: Early [[loom]]s date to 5000 BC. From antiquity until the mediaeval times, the loom improved in both Asia and Europe, despite the fact that the loom's fundamental operation remained unchanged.<ref>{{Cite web |title=loom {{!}} weaving {{!}} Britannica |url=https://www.britannica.com/technology/loom |access-date=2022-06-01 |website=www.britannica.com |language=en |archive-date=2022-07-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220713060703/https://www.britannica.com/technology/loom |url-status=live }}</ref> In 200 BC, the Chinese invented vertical looms and pedal looms, transforming the craft into an industry. By decreasing the worker's workload, innovative solutions improved productivity. There were harnesses and [[heddle]]s to govern the movement of the warp yarn, a shuttle to transport the weft yarns, a reed to compact the cloth, and a take up roller to roll down the cloth. By the 1st century AD, all necessary components for a loom were assembled.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=6}} Power looms: [[John Kay (flying shuttle)|John Kay]] invented the [[flying shuttle]] in 1734 in Bury, Lancashire. It was one of the first innovations in the cotton woven fabric industry.<ref>{{Cite web |title=John Kay {{!}} British engineer and inventor {{!}} Britannica |url=https://www.britannica.com/biography/John-Kay |access-date=2022-06-01 |website=www.britannica.com |language=en |archive-date=2022-03-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220318071514/https://www.britannica.com/biography/John-Kay |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Samuel Crompton]] invented a [[Spinning mule|spinning machine]] in 1779 that produced yarn faster than ever before. Then [[Edmund Cartwright]] invented the first [[power loom]] in 1785.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=10}} Jacquard loom: The [[Jacquard machine]] was a modified version of programmable loom developed in 1804. It was developed by [[Joseph Marie Jacquard]] based on earlier inventions by [[Basile Bouchon]] (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and [[Jacques Vaucanson]] (1740). The industrial revolution in the 18th century led to mass production of yarn and cloth, which led to the growth of the woven fabric part of the textile industry.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Hammond |first1=J. L. (John Lawrence) |url=http://archive.org/details/skilledlabourer00hammiala |title=The skilled labourer, 1760–1832 |last2=Hammond |first2=Barbara Bradby |date=1919 |publisher=London, New York [etc.] : Longmans, Green and co. |others=University of California Libraries |pages=51}}</ref> |[[File:Warp and weft 2.jpg|thumb|center|Warp and weft]] |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Knitting]] |Knitting involves interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a [[knitting needle]], needle, or on a [[crochet hook]], together in a line. The processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop.<ref name="Rowe-1997">{{Cite book |last=Rowe |first=Ann Pollard |title=Looping and Knitting |publisher=The Textile Museum |year=1997 |location=Washington, D.C. |page=2}}</ref> |Hand knitting: Though knitting was developed by [[Danes]] around 900 BC it did not reach to other civilizations until 900 AD.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=5}} Europe learned to knit by hand around 1400. Three to four stockings could be knit in a week by 1450. [[William Lee (inventor)|William Lee]] invented a [[stocking frame]] in 1589 that could knit one stocking per day. Acceptance of Lee's invention and subsequent modifications resulted in a wide range of fabrics in Europe.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=8}} The machine knitting is separated into two main groups of production processes: warp knitting and weft knitting. |[[File:Knit-schematic.png|thumb|center|Loop formation. Structure of stockinette stitch in a weft knitted fabric.]] |- |[[Nålebinding]] |Nålebinding involves the use of a needle to form loops of yarn, by passing the full length of yarn through each loop (unlike knitting and crocheting). |Nålebinding is a precursor of crocheting and knitting. |[[File:Handschuhe Nadelbindung.JPG|thumb|Mittens produced by nålebinding]] |- style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Crochet]]ing |Crocheting never involves more than one active stitch on the needle. Knitting can be performed by machine, but crochet can only be performed by hand.<ref name="Rowe-1997" /> |Crocheting was originally practised by Scottish peasants with a small, hooked needle known as a shepherd's hook.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Frances Lambert |url=http://archive.org/details/mycrochetsample00lambgoog |title=My crochet sampler |date=1844 |others=Oxford University |pages=12 |language=English}}</ref> |[[File:Crochet-round.jpg|thumb|center|Most crochet uses one hook and works upon one stitch at a time. Crochet may be worked in circular rounds without any specialized tools, as shown here.]] |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Spread tow fabric|Spread tow]] |Spread tow is a production method where the tow fibers are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are woven as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials; spread tow fabrics can be made in [[carbon fibers|carbon]], [[aramid]] and other fibers. | | |-style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Braid]]ing or plaiting |Braiding or plaiting involves intertwining threads together into cloth. | |[[File:Braid StepBystep.jpg|thumb|center|Braiding]] |- |[[Knot]]ting |[[Knot]]ting involves tying threads together and is used in making [[tatting]] and [[macrame]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Collier |first=Billie J. |url=http://archive.org/details/understandingtex0000coll_b7k9 |title=Understanding textiles |date=2009 |location=Upper Saddle River, N.J. |publisher= Pearson Prentice Hall |isbn=978-0-13-118770-2 |pages=543}}</ref>{{sfn|Birrell|1973|p=279}} | | |- style="vertical-align: top;" |[[Lace]] |Lace is made by interlocking threads together to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand (e.g. [[needle lace]] or [[bobbin lace]]) or machine.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Lyle |first=Dorothy Siegert |url=http://archive.org/details/moderntextiles02edlyle |title=Modern textiles |date=1982 |location=New York |publisher= Wiley |isbn=978-0-471-07805-0 |pages=474}}</ref> | |[[File:Ursuline lace 2.jpg|thumb|center|Bobbin lace in progress]] |- |3D Textiles |Complex interlacement of yarns where the final product has not plain form as flat fabrics, but 3D form. |All technologies - weft knitting, warp knitting, weaving and braiding allow production of complex products with 3D form if suitable machine configuration and pattern are used. This technologies are used for woven heart valves, composite profiles and other. | |- style="vertical-align: top;" |[[3D textiles|Additive manufactured textile like structures]] |Fabric manufacturing by [[3D printing|3D printer]] employs additive manufacturing, also known as additive layer manufacturing (ALM), a [[Computer-aided design|CAD-aided]] manufacturing technique that builds the object layer by layer. The method is used in manufacturing of [[Auxetics|Auxetic]] textiles and in composite materials.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Hu |first1=Hong |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7_mhDwAAQBAJ&q=three+dimensional |title=Auxetic Textiles |last2=Zhang |first2=Minglonghai |last3=Liu |first3=Yanping |date=11 July 2019 |publisher=Woodhead Publishing |isbn=978-0-08-102212-2 |language=en |access-date=2022-05-27 |archive-date=2023-04-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230405094440/https://books.google.com/books?id=7_mhDwAAQBAJ&q=three+dimensional |url-status=live }}</ref> | |[[File:XYZprinting inBloom Dress 3D Printed Outfit (16837487086).jpg|thumb|center|3D-printed outfit]] |} Important parameters in fabric selection: The primary consideration in fabric selection is the end use. The fabric needs vary greatly depending on the application. Similar types of fabric may not be suitable for all applications.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=18}} [[Units of textile measurement#Grams per square metre (GSM)|Fabric weight]] is an important criteria while producing different fabrics. A carpet requires a fabric with 1300 GSM, but a robe may be made with 160 GSM. Certainly, fabrics for clothes and carpets have distinct weights.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=18}} {| class="wikitable" |+Range of fabric weights typically used in various textile products{{sfn|Humphries|1996|p=4}} !GSM (grams per square meter) range !Categorization !Termed as !Suitable for the textile products |- |0-50 |[[Sheer fabric]] | |Sheer curtains, Lingerie items, [[Wedding dress]]es, |- |50-150 |Light weight |Top weight |[[Blouse]], [[Lining (sewing)|Lining]], Shirt, [[T-shirt]], Dress |- |150–300 |Medium weight |Bottom weight |Skirts, trousers, denims, and suits |- |300–600 |Medium to heavy weight |Bull denim |[[Drapery]], overcoat, towel, [[slipcover]], workwear |- |More than 600 |Heavy | |Carpet, mat, [[upholstery]], winter coats |} Stretchable fabrics have greater movability and are thus more comfortable than fabrics with no stretch or less stretch.{{sfn|Smith|1982|p=23}} === Textile exports === {{See also|List of countries by textile exports}} {| class="wikitable floatright" |- ! colspan=2| '''Top five exporters of textiles—2013'''<br /><small>($ billion)</small> |- | China || style="text-align:right;"| 274 |- | India || style="text-align:right;"| 40 |- | Italy || style="text-align:right;"| 36 |- | Germany || style="text-align:right;"| 35 |- | Bangladesh || style="text-align:right;"| 28 |- |colspan=2 style="font-size:90%;"|''Source:''<ref name=stat>{{cite web |url=http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/India-overtakes-Germany-and-Italy-is-new-world-No-2-in-textile-exports/articleshow/35973054.cms |title=India overtakes Germany and Italy, is new world No. 2 in textile exports |website=[[The Times of India]] |date=3 June 2014 |access-date=2015-02-03 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150215101537/http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/India-overtakes-Germany-and-Italy-is-new-world-No-2-in-textile-exports/articleshow/35973054.cms |archive-date=2015-02-15}}</ref> |} According to the UN Commodity Trade Statistics Database, the global textiles and apparel export market reached $772 billion in 2013.<ref>{{Cite news |title=India world's second largest textiles exporter: UN Comtrade |work=The Economic Times |url=https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/industry/cons-products/garments-/-textiles/india-worlds-second-largest-textiles-exporter-un-comtrade/articleshow/35958852.cms |access-date=2022-05-31 |archive-date=2022-05-31 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220531035900/https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/industry/cons-products/garments-/-textiles/india-worlds-second-largest-textiles-exporter-un-comtrade/articleshow/35958852.cms |url-status=live }}</ref> ==== Changing dynamics of the market ==== China is the largest exporter of textile goods. Most of China's exports consist of apparel, apparel accessories, textile yarns, and textile products. The competitive advantages of the China are low prices and abundant labor, lowered commercial obstacles, and a ready supply of raw materials. China, along with the United States and India, is a major producer of cotton.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Largest textile exporting countries in 2019 |url=https://www.statista.com/statistics/236397/value-of-the-leading-global-textile-exporters-by-country/ |access-date=2022-05-31 |website=Statista |language=en |archive-date=2022-05-31 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220531042947/https://www.statista.com/statistics/236397/value-of-the-leading-global-textile-exporters-by-country/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=World cotton production by country 2019 |url=https://www.statista.com/statistics/263055/cotton-production-worldwide-by-top-countries/ |access-date=2022-05-31 |website=Statista |language=en |archive-date=2020-04-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200417213314/https://www.statista.com/statistics/263055/cotton-production-worldwide-by-top-countries/ |url-status=live }}</ref> China's apparel market share has declined in recent years due to various reasons and a shift toward high-end, sophisticated products. Additionally, the investors from China made stakes in Myanmar, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Last year, its market share was 36.7%, or $161 billion, a decline of 8% year-over-year. In other words, China lost $14 billion in garment work orders to other countries in a single year. In 2016, Bangladesh's apparel market share was valued at $28 billion, increasing 7.69 percent from the previous year. In 2016 the leading exporters of apparel were China ($161 billion), Bangladesh ($28 billion), Vietnam ($25 billion), India ($18 billion), Hong Kong ($16 billion), Turkey ($15 billion), and Indonesia ($7 billion).<ref>{{Cite web |last=Mirdha |first=Refayet Ullah |date=11 August 2017 |title=Exporters hardly grab orders diverted from China |url=https://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907 |access-date=2022-05-31 |website=The Daily Star |language=en |archive-date=2022-05-23 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220523144220/https://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907 |url-status=live }}</ref> Garment exports from Bangladesh reached record high in the 2021–2022 fiscal year; China ($220,302 billion), Bangladesh ($38.70 billion), India ($8.127 billion), Pakistan ($19.33 billion).<ref>{{Cite web |last=Yusuf |first=Anik |date=12 March 2023 |title=Garment Exports in Bangladesh Reached Record High in 2021–2022 Fiscal Year |url=https://textiletuts.com/garment-exports-in-bangladesh-reached-record-high-in-2021-2022-fiscal-year/ |access-date=2023-03-15 |website=TextileTuts |language=en |archive-date=2023-03-15 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230315141526/https://textiletuts.com/garment-exports-in-bangladesh-reached-record-high-in-2021-2022-fiscal-year/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
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