Editing Clean climbing (section)

==Values and regulation==
Most rock climbing, both long before and immediately after the development of "clean climbing", would now be classified as [[traditional climbing]] in which protection was installed and removed by each successive party on a given route. However, the term "trad climbing" only arose later, to describe that which is not [[sport climbing]], a comparatively recent activity in which all protective gear is permanently and abundantly fixed on certain routes.

Fixed gear certainly existed in 1970 as it does now. Some contemporary routes, like a number of long, limestone climbs in the [[Bow Valley]], Alberta, are notable for fixed bolts at belay stances and for protection at relatively wide intervals,<ref>[http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=32276 Ascent Notes for: Northeast Face - 5.7] Retrieved 2009-09-30</ref> and thus a kind of hybrid of trad and sport is possible—if supplementary gear can be placed. Perhaps the most extreme example of acceptable non-"clean climbing" is the many [[via ferrata]] mountaineering routes, of primarily the Alps.

A relatively small number of climbers believe in varying degrees that fixed gear should never be placed on any route in order to preserve the rock and its inherent challenges.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=1&type=top10 |title=Rock and Ice Magazine: Top 10 Skirmishes from the North American Bolt Wars |access-date=2009-07-12 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091011150707/http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=1&type=top10 |archive-date=2009-10-11 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=245&type=onlinenews |title=Rock and Ice Magazine: Ken Nichols Chops Again? |access-date=2009-02-03 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090218003540/http://rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=245&type=onlinenews |archive-date=2009-02-18 }}</ref> This long-standing cultural question of doctrine is largely separate from issues that gave rise to the term "clean climbing."

Some climbing areas, notably some of the [[National Park Service|national parks]] of the United States, have ''de jure'' regulations about whether, when and how hammer activity may be employed. For example, drilling is not banned in [[Yosemite]], but power drills are. Other areas have ''de facto'' local ethics prohibiting certain activity. For example, bolting is not banned in [[Pinnacles National Park]], but the local climbing community does not tolerate rap-bolting — bottom-up route development is expected.