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==In cookery== {{More citations needed|section|date=August 2021}} In ancient Greece, must condensed by boiling was called siraion (σίραιον) and was used as a sweetener in the kitchen in various recipes (and as a syrup over teganitai (pancakes)). From the Greeks, the Romans in [[ancient Rome]] also used the condensed must in cooking, as a sweetener. Must was boiled in lead or [[bronze]] kettles into a milder concentrate called [[Grape syrup#Greco-Roman|defrutum]] or a stronger concentrate called sapa. It was often used as a souring agent and preservative, especially in fruit dishes. Currently, reduced must is used in Greek, other Balkan countries, French and Middle Eastern cookery as a syrup known as petimezi, ''[[pekmez]]'' or ''[[Pekmez|dibis]]''. In Greece, petimezi is a basic ingredient for a must-custard known as ''[[moustalevria]]'', and a sweet-meal known as ''[[Churchkhela|soutzoukos]]'', ''[[churchkhela]]''. The [[Moustalevria|''Moustokoúloura'']] or "must cookies" are also popular Greek cookies, which are based on a sweet dough made by kneading flour, olive oil, spice, and must. They are made in various shapes and sizes, and they are dark brown in color because of the must and the spice in them. In the wine making areas of South Africa must is used to make a sweet bun known as ''[[mosbolletjies]]''. The term petimezi is a Hellenized word of the Armenian/Trebizond term petmez. Petmez was a type of syrup that was made with berries of the White Mulberry tree; petmez was used in Byzantium (Trebizond was part of the Byzantine Empire), where White Mulberries grew in abundance, for their berries and for the silk worms that feed exclusively on Mulberry leaves. ===Roman lead poisoning hypothesis=== Geochemist Jerome Nriagu published an article in the ''[[New England Journal of Medicine]]'' in 1983 hypothesizing that defrutum and ''sapa'' may have contained enough [[Lead(II) acetate|lead acetate]] to be [[Lead poisoning|toxic]] to those who consumed them regularly.<ref name=Grout2011>{{cite web |url=http://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/encyclopaedia_romana/wine/leadpoisoning.html |archive-url=https://wayback.archive-it.org/all/20171019110206/http://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/encyclopaedia_romana/wine/leadpoisoning.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=19 October 2017 |title=Lead Poisoning and Rome |first=James |last=Grout |publisher=University of Chicago |access-date=22 July 2011}}</ref>
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