Editing Savile Row (section)

===Twentieth century===
[[File:Savile Row- Tailoring at Henry Poole and Co., London, England, UK, 1944 D21866.jpg|thumbnail|Bomb damage in Savile Row, 1944]]

Savile Row was extended to [[Conduit Street]] in 1937–38, and by 1939, the Metropolitan Police Station was constructed on the corner of Boyle Street.<ref name=London /> This police station was damaged in another [[The Blitz|German bombing raid]] in September 1940, during which the building opposite, No. 21a, was destroyed, as was No. 7 earlier that month.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.westendatwar.org.uk/page_id__112_path__0p28p.aspx |title=Bomb Incidents Savile Row W1 |first=Katlynn|last=Miller |website=WestEndatWar.org.uk |publisher=[[Westminster City Council]] |access-date=13 December 2012}}</ref> [[Fortress House]], an eight-storey block of offices faced with Portland stone, was constructed at 23 Savile Row in 1949–50 and occupied by a series of government ministries, ending with a long period of occupation by [[English Heritage]] until 2006. It was demolished in 2009 and replaced by a new [[mixed-use development]] designed by [[Eric Parry]], Architects.

{{anchor|3 Savile Row}}[[File:3 Savile Row.jpg|thumb|right|upright|3 Savile Row, the Beatles' former Apple offices, 2007]]

In July 1968, [[the Beatles]] moved [[Apple Corps]], their multimedia corporation, into 3 Savile Row.<ref>{{cite book |author1=Piet Schreuders |author2=Adam Smith |author3=Mark Lewisohn |title=Beatles London: The Ultimate Guide to Over 400 Beatles Sites in and Around London |publisher=Anova Books |date=30 June 2008 |page=53 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2N53-a3FafQC&pg=PA53|isbn=978-1-906032-26-5}}</ref> Apple purchased the building on 22{{nbsp}}June for £500,000 ({{Inflation|US|500000|1968|fmt=eq|r=-5|cursign=£}}).{{sfn|Miles|2001|p=301}}{{Inflation/fn|UK}} A [[Apple Studios (recording studio)|studio was built in the basement]]; though it was poorly designed, the Beatles recorded ''[[Let It Be (album)|Let It Be]]'' there before a new studio was constructed in 1971 at an estimated cost of $1.5 million.<ref>{{cite web |title=Fresh From Apple |url=http://applerecords.com/#!/memorabilia/FFA_VanEaton |publisher=Apple Records |access-date=27 May 2013}}</ref> Various artists, including [[Badfinger]], [[Mary Hopkin]], and [[Marc Bolan]] recorded in the basement studio until it closed in May 1975.<ref>{{cite book |first=Peter|last=Doggett |title=You Never Give Me Your Money: The Beatles After the Breakup |publisher=Random House |date=1 December 2010 |page=229 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=To957Vkn7WAC&pg=PA229|isbn=978-0-09-953236-1}}</ref> The Beatles' final live performance, known as the "[[The Beatles' rooftop concert|rooftop concert]]", was held on the roof of the building, on 30 January 1969, and was recorded for the documentary film ''[[Let It Be (1970 film)|Let It Be]]''; the last words of the band, spoken by [[John Lennon]] as the police stopped the performance, were "I hope we passed the audition."<ref>{{cite news |url=http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/subhajitbanerjee/8244277/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131224090936/http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/subhajitbanerjee/8244277/  |archive-date=24 December 2013 |title=The Beatles Rooftop Concert: It Was 40 Years Ago Today |first=Subhajit|last=Banerjee |date=30 January 2009 |newspaper=The Daily Telegraph |access-date=12 December 2012}}</ref>

In 1969, [[Nutters of Savile Row]] modernised the style and approach of the traditional tailors; a modernisation which continued in the 1990s with the "New Bespoke Movement", involving the designers [[Richard James (tailor)|Richard James]], [[Ozwald Boateng]], and [[Timothy Everest]]. With increasing rents and criticisms from [[Giorgio Armani]] of falling behind the times,<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/0d87dc8a-1e9f-11db-9877-0000779e2340.html |title=Big Enough For The Both of Us? |first=James|last=Sherwood |date=29 July 2006 |newspaper=Financial Times |access-date=14 December 2012}}</ref> the number of tailors in Savile Row had declined to 19 in 2006, from approximately 40 in the 1950s.<ref name="BusinessWeek1">{{cite web |url=http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2006-10-31/savile-row-never-goes-out-of-stylebusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120630064502/http://www.businessweek.com/stories/2006-10-31/savile-row-never-goes-out-of-stylebusinessweek-business-news-stock-market-and-financial-advice |archive-date=30 June 2012 |title=Savile Row Never Goes Out of Style |access-date=9 January 2009 |first=Kate|last=Norton |work=BusinessWeek |date=31 October 2006}}</ref> However, tailoring businesses have increased since 2006; as of October 2014, a local online directory listed 44 tailoring and clothing businesses on and around Savile Row.<ref name=SRT_List>{{cite web |title=Tailors in Savile Row, W1B, London Borough Of Westminster, London |publisher=Yell.com |url=http://www.yell.com/ucs/UcsSearchAction.do?keywords=tailors&location=savile+row&find=Y&pageNum=1 |access-date=30 October 2014}}</ref> Some tailors had expressed concern in 2005 that an increase in commercial development in the area could lead to the death of the business locally, as tailors, many of whom traditionally manufacture their suits in their premises, in basement studios, could be priced out of the local property market.<ref>{{cite news |first=Marie|last=Jackson |title=London's Much-loved Icons at Risk |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/4465191.stm |agency=BBC News |date=25 April 2005 |access-date=9 January 2009}}</ref> {{anchor|Savile Row Bespoke Association}} The Savile Row Bespoke Association was founded in 2004 to protect and develop [[bespoke tailoring]] as practised in Savile Row and the surrounding streets.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/objectives/ |title=Objectives |publisher=Savile Row Bespoke Association |access-date=14 March 2013}}</ref> The member tailors are typically required to put at least 50 hours of hand labour into each two-piece suit.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/membership-requirements/ |title=Membership Requirements |publisher=Savile Row Bespoke Association |access-date=2 May 2013}}</ref> The Association, along with the owners, the Pollen Estate, is working in partnership with [[Westminster City Council|Westminster Council]] to protect the street's tailoring heritage under the Savile Row SPA (Special Policy Area).<ref name=SPA>{{cite web |url=http://transact.westminster.gov.uk/docstores/publications_store/FINAL%20SPAs%20etc.pdf |title=SPAs, Social and Community and Hotels |publisher=City Management Plan workshop briefing notes |access-date=12 March 2013}}</ref>

The Association objected to the American retailer [[Abercrombie & Fitch]]'s plan to open a children's store at 3 Savile Row, concerned that chain stores entering the street would drive up rents, and took part in, what was then, a successful protest in 2012.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.cnbc.com/2013/08/06/savile-row-tailors-battle-with-abercrombie-fitch.html|title=Savile Row tailors battle with Abercrombie & Fitch|first=Katrina|last=Bishop|date=6 August 2013|publisher=CNBC}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |url= https://www.forbes.com/sites/danielnyegriffiths/2012/04/24/give-three-piece-a-chance-savile-row-flash-mob-fights-abercrombie-fitch/ |title=Give Three-Piece A Chance: Savile Row Flash Mob Fights Abercrombie & Fitch| author=Daniel Nye Griffiths|date=24 April 2012|journal=[[Forbes]]| access-date=3 June 2013}}</ref> However, A&F were allowed to move in and set up a children's store in 2013,<ref name=SR_AF>{{cite news |first=Maxine |last=Frith |title=Abercrombie & Fitch's plans for Savile Row branch are 'deeply flawed' |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/abercrombie--fitchs-plans-for-savile-row-branch-are-deeply-flawed-8481357.html |work=London Evening Standard |date=February 2013 |access-date=6 August 2016}}</ref> although it has since closed.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.drapersonline.com/news/abercrombie-fitch-to-close-savile-row-store|title=Abercrombie & Fitch to close Savile Row store|date=25 November 2020}}</ref>

Starting in 1946,<ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/theroyalfamily/7533975/Hardy-Amies-Queens-favourite-dressmaker-abandons-to-its-heritage.html ''The Daily Telegraph''] Hardy Amies: Queen's favourite dressmaker 'abandons its heritage'</ref> 14 Savile Row was the home of [[Hardy Amies (fashion house)|Hardy Amies]] which changed ownership several times over the course of its history. In 2018, the company went into administration for a second time, and was attempting to sell its assets in 2019. The Savile Row store was closed in March 2019 and the space taken over by [[Hackett London|Hackett]] in June as its flagship store.<ref>https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2019/06/hackett-flagship-replace-hardy-amies-londons-savile-row/, Hackett flagship to replace Hardy Amies on Savile Row</ref><ref>https://www.drapersonline.com/news/hardy-amies-savile-row-store-closes, Exclusive: Hardy Amies Savile Row store closes</ref>