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Sheet bend
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==Security== A study of 8 different bends using climbing rope of equal diameter said the sheet bend was weak. In one test, it pulled apart with less than half the tension that other knots withstood. The authors recommend "2 half hitches on the bend back line and overhand knot on turn thru line." Even with these, it was always a bottom performer and the double sheet bend did little better. However, the [[butterfly bend]] did the best.<ref>{{Cite web |date=15 October 2016 |title=Knot Break Strength vs. Rope Break Strength |url=https://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html |access-date=27 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161015122756/https://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html |archive-date=15 October 2016 }}</ref> After performing security testing, Ashley wrote with regard to the Sheet Bend: "Some readers may be surprised to find the Sheet Bend with so low a rating, but these tests were made in exceptionally slippery material. The Sheet Bend is the most practical of bends and quite secure enough for ordinary purposes."
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