Editing Johnny Dawes (section)

==Notable ascents==
[[File:Johnny Dawes on Poetry Pink.jpg|thumb|Dawes on ''Poetry Pink'' (E5 6b), Rainbow Slab, [[Dinorwic quarry]], [[North Wales]] ]]
* 1983: ''Monopoly'' (E7 6b), Millstone Edge. First ascent. Originally climbed with side-runners, Dawes reclimbed it in 1984 with a low peg runner (now removed).<ref>{{cite book |last1=Sharples |first1=Keith |title=Eastern Gritstone: Froggart |date=1991 |publisher=British Mountaineering Council |isbn=0-903908-86-7 |edition=1st}}</ref>
* 1984: ''The Salmon'' (E7 6c), [[Bamford Edge]]. First ascent. Reclimbed by Dawes as ''Smoked Salmon'' at E8 7b in 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble.
* 1984: ''The Braille Trail'' (E7 6c), [[Burbage South Edge]]. First ascent.<ref name=PR/>
* 1985: ''Dawes of Perception'' (E7 6c), [[Dinorwic quarry|Vivian Quarry]], Llanberis. First ascent.
* 1986: ''Janus'' (E7 6b), [[Curbar Edge]]. First ascent.
* 1986: ''Slab and Crack'' (E7/8, 6c), [[Curbar Edge]]. First ascent.
* 1986: ''Gaia'' (E8 6c), [[Black Rocks (Derbyshire)|Black Rocks]], [[Derbyshire]]. First ascent.<ref name=PMI/> Britain's first grade-E8; featured in the 1998 film, ''[[Hard Grit]]''; repeats are coveted.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/video-sean-mccoll-climbing-gaia-at-black-rocks.html | title=Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks | date=17 March 2016 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | title=Watch Sean McColl on Classic Grit Route Gaia E8 6c | date=6 June 2021 | accessdate=9 January 2022 | url=https://gripped.com/video/watch-sean-mccoll-on-classic-grit-route-gaia-e8-6c/}}</ref>
* 1986: ''End of the Affair'' (E8 6c), [[Curbar Edge]]. First ascent. Dawes' hardest [[gritstone]] route, and the end of a period of focus by Dawes on gritstone.<ref name=PMI/>
* 1986: ''[[Indian Face]]'' (E9 6c), [[Clogwyn Du'r Arddu]], [[Snowdonia]]. First ascent.<ref name=PM9/> Britain's first grade-E9,<ref name=PM9/> and considered the world's hardest 'trad' climb at the time; features in the 2006 climbing-film, ''Johnny Dawes and the Indian Face''.<ref name=IF1/><ref name=IF2/>
* 1986: ''The Quarryman'' (E8 7a), Twll Mawr, [[Dinorwic quarry]], [[Llanberis]]. First ascent, 4 pitches on [[Slate industry in Wales|Welsh slate]], one of the hardest climbing routes at the time, now part of a 2019 climbing film, ''The Quarrymen'',<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-quarrymen-climbers-james-pearson-johnny-dawes.html | title=The Quarrymen, featuring climbers James Pearson and Johnny Dawes | date=18 February 2019 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref> and its notorious ''Groove'' pitch features in the 1986 climbing film, ''Stone Monkey''.  Dawes soon added the Fire Escape alternative finish (E7 6c).<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMounain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/caroline-ciavaldini-makes-first-female-ascent-of-the-quarryman-in-wales.html | title=Caroline Ciavaldini makes first female ascent of The Quarryman in Wales | date=14 October 2018 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref> 
* 1986: ''Conan the Librarian'' (E7 6b), [[North Stack|Gogarth North Stack]]. First ascent, with Bob Dury.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Panton |first1=Simon |title=Gogarth North |date=2008 |publisher=Ground Up |isbn=978-0-9554417-1-4}}</ref>
* 1986: ''Come to Mother'' (E7 6a), [[South Stack|Gogarth South Stack]]. First ascent with [[Paul Pritchard]]. The route has now fallen down.
* 1986: ''The Hollow Man'' (E8 6b), [[North Stack|Gogarth North Stack]]. First ascent with Andy Pollit.
* 1987: ''The Scoop'' (E7 6b), [[Uladail|Strone Ulladale]], [[Harris, Outer Hebrides|Harris]]. First ascent with Paul Pritchard of 8 pitches of [[Doug Scott]]'s 1969 grade-[[Grade (climbing)#Aid climbing|A5]] [[aid climbing]] route;<ref name=GUAR/> a free ascent was considered in 1984 to be one of British climbing's "great challenges";<ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mission_impossible_british_climbings_great_challenges-11472 | first=Grant | last=Farquhar | title=Mission Impossible: British Climbing's Great Challenges | date=30 November 2018 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref> partly shown in the 1988 film, ''The 80s: Birth of Extreme''.<ref name=BI/>
* 1987: ''Coeur de Lion'' (E8 7a), Twll Mawr, [[Dinorwic quarry]], [[Llanberis]]. First ascent. Unrepeated until 2015.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Gripped |title=Johnny Dawes' 1987 Route Finally Repeated |url=https://gripped.com/news/johnny-dawes-1987-route-finally-repeated/ |website=Gripped Magazine |date=10 April 2015 |access-date=6 April 2023}}</ref>
* 1988: ''Hardback Thesaurus'' (E7/8 6c), [[North Stack|Gogarth North Stack]]. First ascent and first onsight of an E7; is shown in the 1988 film, ''The 80s: Birth of Extreme''.<ref name=PMI/><ref name=BI>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/premier_posts/the_80's_birth_of_extreme_by_alun_hughes-269979 | title=The 80's: Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes | accessdate=9 January 2022 | date=November 2007}}</ref>    
* 1990: ''The Very Big & the Very Small'' {{climbing grade|8b+}}, Rainbow Slab Area, [[Dinorwic quarry]], [[Llanberis]]. First ascent. Only 3-bolts, hardest slate route at time; rarely repeated; Dawes believes grade is 8c.<ref name=8b>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/12/johnny_dawes_on_climbing_back_to_8b+-71790 | title=Johnny Dawes on Climbing Back to 8b+ | first=Nathalie | last=Berry | date=3 December 2018 | accessdate=9 January 2022}}</ref>  
* 1994: ''Angel's Share'' (E8 7a) or {{boulder grade|7C}}, [[Black Rocks (Derbyshire)|Black Rocks]]. First ascent. Gritstone slab at E8 7a without [[Bouldering mat|bouldering pads]], or a {{boulder grade|7C}} boulder with pads.<ref name=bmc3>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/katy-whittaker-two-johnny-dawes-hard-slab-climbs-in-a-day | first=Hazel | last=Findlay | date=1 March 2012 | accessdate=9 January 2022 | title=Katy Whittaker: two Johnny Dawes hard slab climbs in a day}}</ref>
* 1995: ''Face Mecca'' (E9 6c), [[Clogwyn Du'r Arddu]], [[Snowdonia]]. Second ascent. FFA Nick Dixon in 1989.<ref>{{cite web | website=UKClimbing.com | url= https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/facing_the_indian_by_johnny_dawes-5754 | first=Johnny | last=Dawes | date=2 September 2013 | accessdate=9 January 2022 | title=Facing The Indian}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climbr | url=https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-mchaffie-repeats-face-mecca-e9/ | date=7 June 2016 | title=James McHaffie repeats Face Mecca (E9) | accessdate=11 January 2022}}</ref>
* 2003: ''Drummond Base'' (E8 6c), [[Curbar Edge]]. First ascent.