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Paul Poiret
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==Aesthetic and legacy== Poiret's major contribution to fashion was his technique of [[Drapery|draping]] fabric, an alternative to the more popular [[tailoring]] and use of patterns.<ref name="met">[http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2007/poiret The Metropolitan Museum of Art – Special Exhibitions: Poiret: King of Fashion]</ref> Poiret was influenced by both antique and regional dress, and favoured clothing cut along [[Warp and weft|straight lines]] and decorated with rectangular motifs.<ref name="met" /> The structural simplicity of his clothing represented a "pivotal moment in the emergence of modernism" generally, and "effectively established the paradigm of modern fashion, irrevocably changing the direction of costume history.<ref name=met/> Poiret is associated with the decline of corsetry in women's fashion and the invention of the [[hobble skirt]], and once boasted "yes, I freed the bust, but I shackled the legs."<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Milford-Cottam|first=Daniel|title=Edwardian Fashion|publisher=Shire Publications|year=2014|isbn=978-0-74781-404-7|location=Great Britain|pages=55}}</ref> Poiret was not the only one responsible for the change in women's supportive garments, however, and the diminished role of corsetry was a result of various factors. Poiret is often described as an [[Orientalism|Orientalist]], and his creations often drew inspiration from various Eastern styles which were at odds with other fashionable Edwardian modes.<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Koda|first1=Richard|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/33357725|title=Haute couture|last2=Martin|first2=Harold|date=1995|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Koda, Harold., Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.)|isbn=0-87099-762-9|location=New York|pages=20|oclc=33357725}}</ref> In 1911, he held an extravagant fancy-dress ball, The 1002nd Night, inspired by the tales of the ''[[One Thousand and One Nights]]'', to which he dressed as a [[sultan]] bearing a whip and encouraged guests to dress in Orientalist styles, including [[harem pants]] and "lampshade" tunics similar to the one worn by his wife.<ref>{{cite book|title=Art Bulletin of Victoria, Issues 34–36|date=1994|publisher=Council of the National Gallery of Victoria|location=Victoria|page=35|quote=Mulvagh, p. 19, suggests that the jupe-culotte was introduced by Poiret, Bourniche and Margaine-Lacroix, while books on Poiret credit it to him alone.}}</ref> [[File:Paul Poiret and his wife Denise at a party on june 24.jpg|thumb|Paul Poiret and his wife at 'The 1002nd Night' fancy-dress ball, in which guests were expected to dress in Orientalist fashion]]<ref name=":1" /> {{Gallery |align=center |File:Fancy dress costume MET DT7446.jpg|Eastern style fancy-dress costume with harem pants (1911) |File:Paul Poiret dress 8 (Kremlin 2011) 02.jpg|Summer dress (early 1910s). |File:Coat MET DT444.jpg|Coat in black wool with fur and leather applique (1919) |File:Coat MET CI61.40.4 d2.jpg|Detail of the leather appliqué on the coat (1919) }} Poiret's fashion designs feature prominently in the collections of fashion museums worldwide, and have been displayed in many exhibitions over the years. One such exhibition was "Paul Poiret and Nicole Groult, The Masters of Art Deco Fashion" (''Paul Poiret et Nicole Groult, Maîtres de mode Art Déco'') at [[Palais Galliera]] in Paris in 1986.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.liberation.fr/cahier-ete-2015/2015/07/20/poiret-soeurs-et-sans-reproche_1350923|title=Poiret, sœurs et sans reproche|work=Libération.fr|access-date=2017-11-28|language=fr}}</ref> In May 2005, the fashion designer [[Azzedine Alaïa]] exhibited Denise Poiret's wardrobe in a show called "Free Creativity" (''La Création en Liberté'') in his showroom before it was auctioned.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/26/style/liberty-belle-poirets-modernist-vision.html|title=Liberty belle: Poiret's modernist vision|last=Menkes|first=Suzy|date=2005-04-26|work=The New York Times|access-date=2017-11-28|language=en-US|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> Denise Poiret's personal sartorial collection broke sales records: in particular, an auto coat that Paul Poiret had designed for her in 1914 went under the hammer for 110,000 Euros.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.piasa.auction.fr/_fr/vente/la-creation-en-liberte-univers-de-denise-et-paul-poiret-1905-1928-7550#.WgxiH1tSxaQ|title=Catalogue de la vente La Création en Liberté : Univers de Denise et Paul Poiret (1905 -1928) à Piasa – Fin de la vente le 11 Mai 2005|website=www.piasa.auction.fr|access-date=2017-11-15}}</ref> The [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in New York purchased many pieces at this auction sale, which was the core of the first American retrospective on the dressmaker from May to August 2007, entitled ''Paul Poiret: King of Fashion''.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2007/poiret|title=Poiret|publisher=The Metropolitan Museum of Art |access-date=2017-11-15}}</ref> In 2011, this show traveled to the [[Moscow Kremlin|Kremlin]] in Russia to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of Paul Poiret's visit to [[Moscow]] and [[Saint Petersburg]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://themoscowtimes.com/articles/poiret-the-forgotten-fashion-designer-10100|title=Poiret, the Forgotten Fashion Designer|last=Tchekourda|first=Jekaterina|date=11 October 2011|access-date=2017-11-28|language=en}}</ref> Additionally, Poiret's perfumes, the Parfums de Rosine, are preserved in several cultural institutions, including the [[Osmothèque]] in [[Versailles (city)|Versailles]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.osmotheque.fr/en|title=Bergamot : from yesterday until today|website=Osmotheque}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/poiret-paul/4496/|title=Your Search Results | Search the Collections |publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum}}</ref> In 2013, the Musée International de la Parfumerie in [[Grasse]] showcased the pioneering perfume branch of Poiret in an exhibition entitled ''Paul Poiret: Couturier Perfumer''.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://culturebox.francetvinfo.fr/mode/paul-poiret-premier-couturier-parfumeur-celebre-a-grasse-138277|title=Paul Poiret, premier couturier parfumeur, célébré à Grasse|work=Culturebox|access-date=2017-11-28}}</ref>
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