Editing Sewing (section)

==Garment construction==
[[File:Tailor at work.jpg|thumb|A [[tailor]] fitting a suit in Hong Kong.]]
[[File:Cutting out fabric.jpg|thumb|Hobby sewer cutting out fabric for a dress]]

===Patterns and fitting===
Garment construction is usually guided by a [[pattern (sewing)|sewing pattern]]. A pattern can be quite simple; some patterns are nothing more than a mathematical formula that the sewer calculates based on the intended wearer's measurements. Once calculated, the sewer has the measurements needed to cut the cloth and sew the garment together. At the other end of the spectrum are [[haute couture]] fashion designs. When a couture garment is made of unusual material, or has extreme proportions, the design may challenge the sewer's engineering knowledge. Complex designs are drafted and refitted dozens of times, may take around 40 hours to develop a final pattern, and require 60 hours of cutting and sewing. It is important for a pattern to be created well because the way a completed piece fits is the reason it will either be worn or not.<ref>{{cite book|author1=Steele, Valerie  |author2=Patricia Mears, Clare Sauro |name-list-style=amp |title=Ralph Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness|year=2007|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=9780300122787|pages=121–2}}</ref>

Most clothing today is mass-produced, and conforms to standard sizing, based on body measurements that are intended to fit the greatest proportion of the population. However, while "standard" sizing is generally a useful guideline, it is little more than that, because there is no industry standard that is "both widely accepted and strictly adhered to in all markets".<ref>{{cite book|last=Calderin|first=Jay|title=Form and Fashion|year=2009|publisher=Rockport Publishers|isbn=9781592535415|page=168}}</ref>

Home sewers often work from sewing patterns purchased from companies such as [[Simplicity Pattern|Simplicity]], [[Ebenezer Butterick|Butterick]], [[McCall's]], [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]], [[Burda Style|Burda]], and many others. Such patterns are typically printed on large pieces of tissue paper; a sewer may simply cut out the required pattern pieces for use but may choose to transfer the pattern onto a thicker paper if repeated use is desired. A sewer may choose to alter a pattern to make it more accurately fit the intended wearer. Patterns may be changed to increase or decrease length; to add or remove fullness; to adjust the position of the waistline, shoulder line, or any other seam, or a variety of other adjustments.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Veblen|first1=Sarah|title=The Complete Guide to Perfect Fitting|date=2012|publisher=Creative Publishing International}}</ref> Volume can be added with elements such as [[pleats]], or reduced with the use of [[dart (sewing)|darts]]. Before work is started on the final garment, test garments may be made, sometimes referred to as [[muslin]]s or [[toile]]s.

===Tools===
Sewers working on a simple project need only a few sewing tools, such as flexible measuring tape, needle, thread, cloth, and sewing shears, but there are many helpful sewing aids and specialized tools available. 

Rotary cutters may also be used for cutting fabric, usually used with a [[cutting mat]] to protect other surfaces from being damaged. Seam rippers are used to remove mistaken stitches or basting stitches. Special washable markers or chalk are used to mark the fabric as a guide to construction.<ref name="Handbook">{{cite book|last1=Mitnick|first1=Sarai|title=The Colette Sewing Handbook|date=2011|publisher=Krause Publications|location=Cincinnati, Ohio|pages=12–14}}</ref>

Pressing and ironing are an essential part of any sewing project, and require additional tools. A steam iron is used to press seams and garments, and a variety of pressing aids such as a seam roll or [[tailor's ham]] are used to aid in shaping a garment. A pressing cloth may be used to protect the fabric from damage.<ref name="Handbook"/> A velvet board helps to iron velvet without crushing it. 

[[Sewing machine]]s are now made for a broad range of specialised sewing purposes, such as [[quilting]] machines, heavy-duty machines for sewing thicker fabrics (such as leather), computerized machines for embroidery, and [[serger]]s for finishing raw edges of fabric.<ref>{{cite web|title=Sewing |website = [[YouTube]]| date=29 December 2013 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0i6-cMRM4L0/| archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211117/0i6-cMRM4L0| archive-date=2021-11-17 | url-status=live}}{{cbignore}}</ref>

A wide variety of [[presser foot]] attachments are available for many sewing machines—feet exist to help with hemming, pintucks, attaching cording, assembling [[patchwork]], quilting, and a variety of other functions.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Ahles|first1=Carol|title=Fine Machine Sewing|date=1996|publisher=The Taunton Press|location=Newtown, CT}}</ref>
[[File:Brother latest lockstitch lockstitcher Nexio.jpg|thumb|Latest sewing machines Brother "Nexio" Direct Drive Lock Stitcher with Electronic Feeding System]]

A [[thimble]] is a small hard tool used to protect fingertips while hand sewing.

===Elements===
[[File:Palestinian Tailors with a Passion for Fashion (4185091128).jpg|alt=People at sewing machines in a small garment factory|thumb|Garment construction]]

Seamstresses are provided with the pattern, while tailors would draft their own pattern, both with the intent of using as little fabric as possible. Patterns will specify whether to cut on the [[Grain (textile)|grain]] or the [[bias cut|bias]] to manipulate fabric stretch. Special placement may be required for directional, striped, or plaid fabrics.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Mitnick|first1=Sarai|title=The Colette Sewing Handbook|date=2011|publisher=Krause Publications|location=Cincinnati, Ohio|pages=42–47}}</ref>

Supporting materials, such as [[interfacing]], interlining, or [[lining (sewing)|lining]], may be used in garment construction, to give the fabric a more rigid or durable shape.

Before or after the pattern pieces are cut, it is often necessary to mark the pieces to provide a guide during the sewing process. Marking methods may include using pens, pencils, or chalk, tailor's tacks, snips, pins, or thread tracing, among others.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Mitnick|first1=Sarai|title=The Colette Sewing Handbook|date=2011|publisher=Krause Publications|location=Cincinnati, Ohio|pages=48–49}}</ref>

In addition to the normal [[lockstitch]], construction [[stitch (textile arts)|stitches]] include edgestitching, understitching, staystitching and topstitching.<ref>{{cite book|last=Baumgartel|first=Beth|title=Singer Simple Sewing|year=2009|publisher=Creative Publishing International|isbn=9781589234741|pages=57–8}}</ref> [[seam (sewing)|Seam]] types include the plain seam, zigzag seam, [[flat fell seam]], French seam and many others.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Types of sewing stitches|url=https://www.bestsewingmachines.co.uk/guides/types-of-sewing-machine-stitches/|website=Best Sewing Machines|date=30 November 2019|access-date=16 May 2020|archive-date=20 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200720170312/https://www.bestsewingmachines.co.uk/guides/types-of-sewing-machine-stitches/|url-status=dead}}</ref>

===Software===
[[File:Virtual Sewing Machine Tools in Marvelous Designer Software.jpg|thumbnail|right|Virtual sewing machine tools in a cloth simulation software]]
[[File:Colorful Seams on Digital 3D Clothing.jpg|thumbnail|right|Digital clothing created with virtual sewing machine in a cloth simulation software]]
With the development of cloth simulation software such as CLO3D, Marvelous Designer and Optitex, seamsters can now draft patterns on the computer and visualize clothing designs by using the pattern creation tools and virtual sewing machines within these cloth simulation programs.<ref>{{cite web|title=About Virtual Fashion and the Creation of Digital Clothes|url=https://cgelves.com/all-about-virtual-fashion-and-how-are-digital-3d-clothes-made|access-date=10 December 2015|archive-date=5 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160105040829/https://cgelves.com/all-about-virtual-fashion-and-how-are-digital-3d-clothes-made/|url-status=dead}}</ref>