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== History == {{Main|History of clothing and textiles}} Textiles themselves are too fragile to survive across millennia; the tools used for [[Spinning (textiles)|spinning]] and [[weaving]] make up most of the prehistoric evidence for textile work. The earliest tool for spinning was the [[Spindle (textiles)|spindle]], to which a [[Spindle whorl|whorl]] was eventually added. The weight of the whorl improved the thickness and twist of the spun thread. Later, the [[spinning wheel]] was invented. Historians are unsure where; some say China, others India.<ref>{{cite book |last=Beaudry |first=Mary C. |title=Findings: The Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing |publisher=Yale University Press |date=2006 |page=137}}</ref> The precursors of today's textiles include leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.{{sfn|Weibel|1952|p=27}} The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of [[Warp (weaving)|warp]] [[ikat]] in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the [[National Museum of the Philippines]]. The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of northwest [[Romblon]]. The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles. The discovery of [[Flax|dyed flax fibers]] in a cave in the [[Georgia (country)|Republic of Georgia]] dated to 34,000 [[BCE]] suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.<ref>{{cite journal |doi=10.1126/science.325_1329a |pmid=19745126 |title=Clothes Make the (Hu) Man |year=2009 |last1=Balter |first1=M. |journal=Science |volume=325 |issue=5946 |pages=1329}}</ref><ref name="Kvavadze-2009">{{cite journal |doi=10.1126/science.1175404 |pmid=19745144 |title=30,000-Year-Old Wild Flax Fibers |year=2009 |last1=Kvavadze |first1=E. |last2=Bar-Yosef |first2=O. |last3=Belfer-Cohen |first3=A. |last4=Boaretto |first4=E. |last5=Jakeli |first5=N. |last6=Matskevich |first6=Z. |last7=Meshveliani |first7=T. |journal=Science |volume=325 |issue=5946 |pages=1359 |url=http://nrs.harvard.edu/urn-3:HUL.InstRepos:4270521 |bibcode=2009Sci...325.1359K |access-date=2018-11-30 |archive-date=2020-03-04 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200304052409/https://dash.harvard.edu/handle/1/4270521 |url-status=live |url-access=subscription }} [http://worldtextile.aimoo.com/ Supporting Online Material] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091127065045/http://worldtextile.aimoo.com/ |date=27 November 2009 }}</ref> The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.<ref>{{Cite book|url= https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Advanced+Textile+Engineering+Materials-p-9781119487852|title= Advanced Textile Engineering Materials|publisher= Wiley|editor1-first= Shahid|editor1-last= Ul-Islam|editor2-first= B. S.|editor2-last= Butola|isbn= 978-1-119-48785-2|date= 2018|access-date= 4 September 2020|archive-date= 2020-11-09|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20201109034146/https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Advanced+Textile+Engineering+Materials-p-9781119487852|url-status= live}}</ref> === Textile industry === {{main|textile industry}} The textile industry grew out of art and craft and was kept going by [[guild]]s. In the 18th and 19th centuries, during the [[Industrial Revolution]], it became increasingly mechanized. In 1765, when a machine for spinning wool or cotton called the [[spinning jenny]] was invented in the United Kingdom, textile production became the first economic activity to be industrialised. In the 20th century, science and technology were driving forces.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Hollen |first1=Norma R. |url=http://archive.org/details/isbn_9780023675300 |title=Textiles |last2=Hollen |first2=Norma R. Textiles |date=1988 |location=New York |publisher= Macmillan |isbn=978-0-02-367530-0 |pages=1, 2, 3}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=States and Power in Africa: Comparative Lessons in Authority and Control, 2nd ed. |doi=10.23943/princeton/9780691164137.003.0010 |date=2017 |last1=Herbst |first1=Jeffrey |volume=1 }}</ref> The textile industry exhibits inherent dynamism, influenced by a multitude of transformative changes and innovations within the domain. Textile operations can experience ramifications arising from shifts in international trade policies, evolving fashion trends, evolving customer preferences, variations in production costs and methodologies, adherence to safety and environmental regulations, as well as advancements in research and development.{{sfn|Kadolph|1998|p=4}} The textile and garment industries exert a significant impact on the economic systems of numerous countries engaged in textile production.<ref>{{cite book |doi=10.1016/B978-1-78242-232-7.00001-1 |chapter=Introduction |title=Garment Manufacturing Technology |date=2015 |last1=Nayak |first1=R. |last2=Padhye |first2=R. |pages=1–17 |isbn=978-1-78242-232-7 }}</ref> === Naming === [[File:Calico sample Crum & Co..jpg|thumb|right|Sample of calico printed with a six-colour machine by Walter Crum & Co., from [[Frederick Crace Calvert]], ''Dyeing and Calico Printing'' (1878)]] Most textiles were called by their base fibre generic names, their place of origin, or were put into groups based loosely on manufacturing techniques, characteristics, and designs.<ref name="Malekandathil-2016">{{Cite book |last=Malekandathil |first=Pius |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-WEPDQAAQBAJ&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PT359 |title=The Indian Ocean in the Making of Early Modern India |date=13 September 2016 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-351-99745-4 |pages=359 |language=en |access-date=2022-05-25 |archive-date=2022-06-02 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220602045837/https://books.google.com/books?id=-WEPDQAAQBAJ&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PT359 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="Peck-2013">{{Cite book |last=Peck |first=Amelia |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BYjh82N63IQC&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PA60 |title=Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500–1800 |date=2013 |publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |isbn=978-1-58839-496-5 |pages=60 |language=en |access-date=2022-05-25 |archive-date=2022-06-02 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220602055305/https://books.google.com/books?id=BYjh82N63IQC&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PA60 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="Corbman-1983">{{Cite book |last=Corbman |first=Bernard P. |url=http://archive.org/details/textilesfibertof0006corb |title=Textiles: fiber to fabric |date=1983 |location=New York |publisher=Gregg Division, McGraw-Hill |isbn=978-0-07-013137-8 |pages=2 to 8}}</ref><ref name="Cerchia-2021">{{Cite book |last1=Cerchia |first1=Rossella Esther |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=37UTEAAAQBAJ&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PA3 |title=The New Frontiers of Fashion Law |last2=Pozzo |first2=Barbara |date=13 January 2021 |publisher=MDPI |isbn=978-3-03943-707-8 |pages=2, 3 |language=en |access-date=2022-05-25 |archive-date=2023-04-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230405081520/https://books.google.com/books?id=37UTEAAAQBAJ&dq=Textiles+and+origin+of+their+names&pg=PA3 |url-status=live }}</ref> Nylon, [[Olefin fiber|olefin]], and [[Acrylic fiber|acrylic]] are generic names for some of the more commonly used synthetic fibres.{{sfn|Elsasser|2005|p=219}} {| class="wikitable" style="clear: both" |+ !Name !Product ! colspan="2" |Textiles named by !Description |- |[[Cashmere wool|Cashmere]] |Wool fiber obtained from [[cashmere goat]]s |Origin |[[Kashmir]] |Cashmere is synonymous with the [[Kashmir shawl]], with the term "cashmere" derived from an anglicisation of Kashmir.<ref name="Boulanger-1990">{{Cite book |last=Boulanger |first=Jean-Claude |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MLChUpf_66EC&dq=Jagannath%3D+light+cotton+material&pg=PA143 |title=Actes du XVIe Congrès international des sciences onomastiques: Québec, Université Laval, 16–22 août 1987 : le nom propre au carrefour des études humaines et des sciences sociales |date=1990 |publisher=Presses Université Laval |isbn=978-2-7637-7213-4 |pages=143 |language=en |access-date=2022-06-07 |archive-date=2023-04-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230405081522/https://books.google.com/books?id=MLChUpf_66EC&dq=Jagannath=+light+cotton+material&pg=PA143 |url-status=live }}</ref> |- |[[Calico]] |[[Plain weave]] textile material |Origin |[[Kozhikode|Calicut]] |The fabric originated in the southwestern Indian city of Calicut. |- |Jaconet |Lightweight cotton fabric in plain weave |Origin |[[Puri|Jagannath Puri]] |Jaconet is [[anglicisation]] of Jagannath where it was originally produced.{{sfn|Humphries|1996|p=15}} |- |[[Jersey (fabric)|Jersey]] |A type of [[Knitted fabric]] |Origin |[[Jersey]], [[Channel Islands]] |Jersey fabric was produced first at Jersey, Channel Islands.<ref name="Boulanger-1990" /> |- |[[Kersey (cloth)|Kersey]] |A coarse [[woolen]] cloth |Origin |[[Kersey, Suffolk]] |The fabric is named after the town in the east of England.<ref name="Boulanger-1990" /> |- |[[Paisley (design)]] |A type of [[Motif (visual arts)|motif]] |Design |[[Paisley, Renfrewshire]] |A town situated in the west [[central Lowlands]] of [[Scotland]].<ref name="Boulanger-1990" /> |- |[[Dosuti]] |A handspun cotton cloth |Characteristics |A coarse and thick cotton cloth |In and around the 19th century [[Punjab]] and [[Gujarat]] were famous for production of various handspun cloths. Dosuti was distinguished by the number of yarns (Do+Suti translates to 'two yarns') used to produce it. Eksuti was another variety using a single thread. <ref name="Baden-Powell-1872">{{Cite book |last=Baden-Powell |first=Baden Henry |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gg_JAAAAMAAJ |title=Hand-book of the Manufactures & Arts of the Punjab: With a Combined Glossary & Index of Vernacular Trades & Technical Terms ... Forming Vol. Ii to the "Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab" Prepared Under the Orders of Government |date=1872 |publisher=Punjab printing Company |isbn= |location= |pages=7 |language=en}}</ref><ref name="Indian Annuals Bureau-1964">{{Cite book |last= |first= |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=yVM5AQAAIAAJ |title=Supplies and Disposals Year Book |date=1964 |publisher= |isbn= |location= |pages=74, 335, 351 |language=en |access-date=2022-06-07 |archive-date=2022-06-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220607041847/https://books.google.com/books?id=yVM5AQAAIAAJ |url-status=live }}</ref> |- |[[Muslin|Mulmul]] types such as āb-i-ravān ''running water'', Baft Hawa ''woven air''{{sfn|Weibel|1952|p=54}} |Fine muslin fabric variations from [[Dhaka|Dacca]] in [[Bengal]] |Characteristics |Delicate muslin types |Dacca, in the eastern Indian subcontinent, produced a wide range of handwoven and spun muslins. Baft Hawa, which means "woven air", Shabnam, which means "evening dew", and ab-i-ravan, which means "flowing water" are some poetic names for soft muslins.{{sfn|Weibel|1952|p=54}}<ref>{{Cite book |last=King |first=Brenda M. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vqua3eovs7kC&q=Abrawan&pg=PR16 |title=Silk and Empire |date=3 September 2005 |publisher=Manchester University Press |isbn=978-0-7190-6700-6 |pages=61, xvi |language=en}}</ref> |- |[[Nainsook]] |A plain weave fabric with soft hand |Characteristics |Pleasing to the eyes |Nain + Sook translates to "eye-pleasing".{{sfn|Humphries|1996|p=15}} |- |[[Swanskin cloth|Swanskin]] |A woven [[flannel]] cloth |Characteristics |Appears and feels like [[swan]] skin |A18th century fabric developed at [[Shaftesbury]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Harmuth |first=Louis |url=http://archive.org/details/dictionaryoftext00harmrich |title=Dictionary of textiles |date=1915 |publisher=New York, Fairchild publishing company |others=University of California Libraries |pages=149}}</ref> |- |[[Tansukh cloth|Tansukh]] |Another type of Muslin with soft and delicate texture |Characteristics |Pleasing to the body |Tan + Sukh translates to "body pleasing". Tansukh was a fine, soft, and delicate textured cloth. The cloth type is mentioned in the 16th century Mughal time records, [[Ain-i-Akbari]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Sangar |first=S. P. |date=1965 |title=FEMALE COSTUMES IN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES (as reflected in the contemporary Hindi literature) |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/44140630 |journal=Proceedings of the Indian History Congress |volume=27 |pages=243–247 |jstor=44140630 |issn=2249-1937 |access-date=2022-06-06 |archive-date=2023-02-03 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230203053658/https://www.jstor.org/stable/44140630 |url-status=live }}</ref> |} === Related terms === The related words "'''fabric'''"<ref name="MW-2017" /> and "'''cloth'''"<ref name="Cloth-2012" /> and "'''[[material]]'''" are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and [[dressmaker|dressmaking]]) as synonyms for ''textile''. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. ''Material'' is an extremely broad term basically meaning consisting of [[matter]], and requires context to be useful. A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and [[geotextile]]s, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and [[upholstery]]. A ''fabric'' is a material made through [[Woven fabric|weaving]], [[Knitted fabric|knitting]], spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. ''Cloth'' may also be used synonymously with ''fabric'', but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.{{Citation needed|date=May 2022}} * Greige goods: Textiles that are raw and unfinished are referred to as [[greige goods]]. After manufacturing, the materials are processed and finished.<ref>{{Cite book |last=MATHEWS |first=KOLANJIKOMBIL |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XkqoDwAAQBAJ |title=Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set |date=2017 |publisher=Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited |isbn=978-93-85059-66-7 |pages=690 |language=en}}</ref><ref name="Choudhury-2017" /> * Piece goods: [[Piece goods]] were textile materials sold in cut pieces as specified by the buyer. Piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or made to a specific length, also known as yard goods.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Wingate |first=Isabel Barnum |url=http://archive.org/details/fairchildsdictio00wing |title=Fairchild's dictionary of textiles |date=1979 |location=New York |publisher= Fairchild Publications |isbn=978-0-87005-198-2 |pages=455}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Blanco |first=A. E. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WsbCDwAAQBAJ&q=wool+piecegoods+length&pg=PT14 |title=Piece Goods Manual: Fabrics described; textile, knit goods, weaving terms, etc., explained; with notes on the classification of samples |date=19 May 2021 |publisher=Good Press |language=en |access-date=2022-05-27 |archive-date=2023-04-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230405094437/https://books.google.com/books?id=WsbCDwAAQBAJ&q=wool+piecegoods+length&pg=PT14 |url-status=live }}</ref>
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