Editing Crinoline (section)

===Critical response===
[[File:Maid and mistress in crinoline. Punch Almanack for 1862-2.png|thumb|Caricature showing a lady scolding her maid for wearing a crinoline. ''Punch'', 1862]]
Unlike the [[farthingale]]s and [[pannier (clothing)|panniers]], the crinoline was worn by women of every social class. The fashion swiftly became the subject of intense scrutiny in Western media.<ref name=palgrave>[https://books.google.com/books?id=r7dCBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA17 Maxwell, pp. 16–18]</ref><ref name=crinolinemania>[https://books.google.com/books?id=FhZBsN73AK8C&pg=PT91 Thomas], p. 91.</ref> Critical articles on the crinoline were published by the Hungarian journal {{lang|hu|Az Üstökös}} (1858) and the Bulgarian journalist [[Petko Slaveykov]] in 1864.<ref name=palgrave/> In the 1850s, the Welsh poet [[Dafydd Jones (Dewi Dywyll)|Dafydd Jones]] wrote a ballad decrying the fashion.<ref name=palgrave/><ref>{{cite web |title=Baled – 'Can Newydd, sef Fflangell Geiniog, i Chwipio y Cylchau o Beisiau y Merched y Crinolines' gan Dafydd Jones, tudalen 1 |url=http://education.gtj.org.uk/cy/item1/25265 |website=Culturenet Cymru |publisher=The National Library of Wales |access-date=11 June 2015 |language=cy |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150612050248/http://education.gtj.org.uk/cy/item1/25265 |archive-date=12 June 2015 |url-status=dead }}</ref> A similar sentiment was expressed by a Russian song published in 1854, where the singer complains about his wife having assumed the fashion.<ref name=palgrave/> In 1855, an observer of [[Queen Victoria]]'s state visit to Paris complained that despite the number of foreigners present, Western fashions such as the crinoline had diluted national dress to such an extent that everyone, whether Turkish, Scottish, Spanish, or Tyrolean, dressed alike.<ref name=blau154>[https://books.google.com/books?id=YoAgKlO2dfgC&pg=PA154 Blau], p. 154</ref> Victoria herself is popularly said to have detested the fashion, inspiring a song in ''Punch'' that started: "Long live our gracious Queen/Who won't wear crinoline!"<ref name=alison44a>[https://books.google.com/books?id=dg7DAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA44 Gernsheim], p. 44. NB: Gernsheim misquotes the rhyme as "God Save our gracious Queen."</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Larcom Graves |first1=Charles |title=Mr. Punch's History of Modern England Vol. II—1857–1874 |date=2014 |publisher=Cassell & Company, Ltd |page=103|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=02aVBQAAQBAJ&pg=PT103}}</ref> Gernsheim has noted that the Queen was often photographed in crinolines, and suggests that this misunderstanding came from a request made by Victoria that female guests attending her [[Victoria, Princess Royal#Marriage|daughter's marriage]] in 1858 should leave their hoops off due to limited space in the Chapel Royal at [[St James's Palace]].<ref name=alison44/>

The crinoline was perceived as a signifier of social identity, with a popular subject for cartoons being that of [[maid]]s wearing crinolines like their mistresses, much to the higher-class ladies' disapproval.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=QRKOAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA111 Barnard], p. 111</ref> The questions of servants in crinoline and the related social concerns were raised by [[George Routledge]] in an etiquette manual published in 1875, where he criticised London housemaids for wearing hoops at work.<ref name=rout>[https://books.google.com/books?id=oTE9AwAAQBAJ&pg=PT127 Routledge], p. 127</ref> As the girls knelt to scrub the doorsteps, Routledge described how their hoops rose to expose their lower bodies, inspiring [[street harassment]] from [[courier|errand boy]]s and other male passers-by.<ref name=rout/> Routledge firmly opined that servants ought to save their fashionable garments for their leisure periods, and dress appropriately for their work.<ref name=rout/> However, this was challenged by some servants who saw attempts to control their dress as equivalent to controlling their liberty, and refused to work for employers who tried to forbid crinolines.<ref name=rout/>

[[File:Sarah Davies (née Forbes Bonetta).jpg|upright|thumb|[[Sarah Forbes Bonetta]] by [[Camille Silvy]], 1862]]
[[Arthur Munby]] observed that in the "barbarous locality" of [[Wigan]], the sight of a female [[colliery]] worker wearing trousers was "not half as odd as a woman wearing a crinoline."<ref name=dalleva/> In Australia, poorer rural women were photographed posing outside their [[slab hut]]s, wearing their best dresses with crinolines.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=9IejqWWdxeoC&pg=PA111 Maynard], p. 111</ref> The French sociologist and economist [[Pierre Guillaume Frédéric le Play|Frédéric le Play]] carried out surveys of French working-class families' wardrobes from 1850 to 1875, in which he found that two women had crinolines in their wardrobe, both wives of skilled workers.<ref name=crane>[https://books.google.com/books?id=VT_r8GgEoKkC&pg=PA57 Crane], p. 57.</ref> One, the fashion-conscious wife of a glove-maker, owned two crinolines and eleven dresses, although her usual everyday clothing consisted of [[sabot (shoe)|wooden shoes]] and printed aprons.<ref name=crane/> In America, the mid-19th century crinoline has become popularly associated with the image of the [[Southern belle|Southern Belle]], a young woman from the American Deep South's upper socioeconomic, slave-owning [[Planter class|planter]] classes.{{citation needed|date=September 2024}} However, as in Europe and elsewhere, the crinoline was far from exclusively worn by wealthy women.<ref name=oedel>{{cite news|last1=Oedel|first1=Dave|title=Hoop Skirt Hoopla at UGA|url=http://maconmonitor.com/2015/03/21/hoop-skirt-hoopla-at-uga/|access-date=30 June 2015|work=Macon Monitor|date=21 March 2015}}</ref> Both black and white women in America of all classes and social standings wore hooped skirts, including First Lady [[Mary Todd Lincoln]] and her African-American dressmaker, [[Elizabeth Keckley]], who created many of Lincoln's own extravagant crinolines.<ref name=oedel/>

The difficulties associated with the garment, such as its size, the problems and hazards associated with wearing and moving about in it, and the fact that it was worn so widely by women of all social classes, were frequently exaggerated and parodied in satirical articles and illustrations such as those in ''[[Punch magazine|Punch]]''.<ref name=vam/><ref name=crinolinemania/> Alexander Maxwell has summarised crinoline mockery as expressing the male authors' insecurity and fears that women, whose crinolines took up "enough space for five," would eventually "conquer" mankind.<ref name=palgrave/> Julia Thomas, observing the extent of ''Punch'''s anti-crinoline sentiment and mockery, noted that the magazine's attacks, rather than crushing the fashion, exacerbated and even invented the phenomenon of "crinolinemania."<ref name=crinolinemania/>

====Hazards====
[[File:Women wearing crinolines set on fire, ca. 1860, lithograph Wellcome V0048935.jpg|left|thumb|upright|A crinoline fire, {{c.|1860}}]]
The flammability of the crinoline was widely reported. Although trustworthy statistics on crinoline-related fatalities are rare, [[Florence Nightingale]] estimated that at least 630 women died from their clothes catching fire in 1863–1864.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Mitchell |first1=Rebecca N. |title=15 August 1862: The Rise and Fall of the Cage Crinoline |url=http://www.branchcollective.org/?ps_articles=rebecca-n-mitchell-15-august-1862-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-cage-crinoline |website=BRANCH: Britain, Representation, and Nineteenth-Century History |access-date=24 February 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Nightingale |first1=Florence |title=Notes on Nursing for the Labouring Classes |date=1876 |publisher=Harrison |location=London |page=42 |edition=New |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fDLvARQRq0YC&q=nightingale+%22notes+on+nursing%22+with+a+chapter+children}}</ref> One such incident, the death of a 14-year-old kitchenmaid called Margaret Davey was reported in ''[[The Times]]'' on 13 February 1863. Her dress, "distended by a crinoline," ignited as she stood on the fender of the [[fireplace]] to reach some spoons on the mantelpiece, and she died as a result of extensive burns. The Deputy-Coroner, commenting that he was "astonished to think that the mortality from such a fashion was not brought more conspicuously under the notice of the Registrar-General," passed a verdict of "Accidental death by fire, caused through crinoline."<ref>{{cite news|title=DEATH BY FIRE |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2561578/the_times/ |access-date=6 June 2015 |work=The Times |via=[[Newspapers.com]] |page=5 |issue=24481, column F |date=13 February 1863}}.</ref> A similar case was reported later that year, when 16-year-old Emma Musson died after a piece of burning [[coke (fuel)|coke]] rolled from the kitchen fire to ignite her crinoline.<ref>{{cite news|title=BURNT TO DEATH|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2561633/the_times/ |access-date=6 June 2015 |work=The Times |via=[[Newspapers.com]] |page=5 |issue=24716, column D |date=14 November 1863}}.</ref> A month later, on 8 December 1863, a [[Church of the Company Fire|serious fire]] at the Church of the Company of Jesus in [[Santiago]], Chile, killed between two and three thousand people. The severity of the death toll is credited in part to the large amounts of flammable fabric that made up the women's crinoline dresses.<ref name=alison47/> Two notable victims of crinoline fires were [[William Wilde]]'s illegitimate daughters, Emily and Mary, who died in November 1871 of burns sustained after their gowns caught fire.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Pearce |first1=Joseph |title=The unmasking of Oscar Wilde |date=2001 |publisher=HarperCollins |location=London |isbn=978-0002740517|page=43}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=White|first1=Terence de Vere|title=The Parents of Oscar Wilde: Sir William and Lady Wilde|url=https://archive.org/details/parentsofoscarwi0000whit|url-access=registration|date=1967|publisher=Hodder and Stoughton|page=[https://archive.org/details/parentsofoscarwi0000whit/page/216 216]}}</ref> Although flame-retardant fabrics were available, these were thought unattractive and were unpopular.<ref name=kingston>{{Cite journal|author=Anne Kingston|title=Deadly Victorian fashions| journal=Maclean's|date=9 June 2014|url=http://www.macleans.ca/culture/arts/deadly-victorian-fashions/}}</ref>

Other risks associated with the crinoline were that it could get caught in other people's feet, carriage wheels or furniture, or be caught by sudden gusts of wind, blowing the wearer off her feet.<ref name=alison47/> In 1859, while participating in a [[Paper Chase (game)|paper chase]], [[Louisa Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire|Louisa, Duchess of Manchester]], caught her hoop while climbing over a [[stile]], and was left with the entirety of her crinoline and skirts thrown over her head, revealing her scarlet [[bloomers (clothing)|drawers]] to the assembled company.<ref name=alison47/><ref>{{cite book |last1=Vane |first1=Henry |title=Affair of state: a biography of the 8th Duke and Duchess of Devonshire |date=2004 |publisher=Peter Owen |location=London |isbn=9780720612332 |page=[https://archive.org/details/affairofstatebio0000vane/page/25 25] |url=https://archive.org/details/affairofstatebio0000vane/page/25 }}</ref>

The crinoline was worn by some factory workers, leading to the textiles firm [[Courtaulds]] instructing female employees in 1860 to leave their hoops and crinolines at home.<ref name=vam>[http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/ ''Corsets and Crinoline'']</ref> [[Cecil Willett Cunnington]] described seeing a photograph of female employees in the [[Bryant and May]] match factories wearing crinolines while at work.<ref name=cun207>Cunnington, p. 207</ref> A report in ''[[The Cork Examiner]]'' of 2 June 1864 recorded the death of Ann Rollinson from injuries sustained after her crinoline was caught by a revolving machinery shaft in a [[mangle (machine)|mangling room]] at Firwood bleach works.<ref>{{cite news|last1=Staff writer|title=Machinery Accident through Crinoline|url=http://www.irelandoldnews.com/Cork/1864/JUN.html|access-date=7 June 2015|work=The Cork Examiner|date=2 June 1864}}</ref>