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Wind wave
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==Models== [[File:Global Wave Height Speed.jpg|thumb|upright=1.25|The image shows the global distribution of wind speed and wave height as observed by NASA's TOPEX/Poseidon's dual-frequency radar altimeter from October 3 to October 12, 1992. Simultaneous observations of wind speed and wave height are helping scientists to predict ocean waves. Wind speed is determined by the strength of the radar signal after it has bounced off the ocean surface and returned to the satellite. A calm sea serves as a good reflector and returns a strong signal; a rough sea tends to scatter the signals and returns a weak pulse. Wave height is determined by the shape of the return radar pulse. A calm sea with low waves returns a condensed pulse whereas a rough sea with high waves returns a stretched pulse. Comparing the two images above shows a high degree of correlation between wind speed and wave height. The strongest winds ({{convert|33.6|mph|km/h|abbr=on|disp=semicolon}}) and highest waves are found in the Southern Ocean. The weakest winds β shown as areas of magenta and dark blue β are generally found in the tropical oceans.]] {{main|Wind wave model}} Surfers are very interested in the [[wind wave model|wave forecasts]]. There are many websites that provide predictions of the surf quality for the upcoming days and weeks. Wind wave models are driven by more general [[numerical weather prediction|weather models]] that predict the winds and pressures over the oceans, seas, and lakes. Wind wave models are also an important part of examining the impact of [[coastal protection|shore protection]] and [[beach nourishment]] proposals. For many beach areas there is only patchy information about the wave climate, therefore estimating the effect of wind waves is important for managing [[littoral]] environments. A wind-generated wave can be predicted based on two parameters: wind speed at 10 m above sea level and wind duration, which must blow over long periods of time to be considered fully developed. The significant wave height and peak frequency can then be predicted for a certain fetch length.<ref>Wood, AMM & Fleming, CA 1981, Coastal hydraulics, John Wiley & Sons, New York</ref>
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