Editing Manaslu (section)

==Climbing history==
[[File:Climber Summit Manaslu 8163m.jpg|thumb|Climber approaching the summit of Manaslu]]
In 1950, [[H. W. Tilman]] was the first European to lead an expedition to the [[Annapurna|Annapurna Range]] with a small party of five compatriots. They walked on foot from the [[Kathmandu valley]] (six days of trekking from the valley), and using [[Manang]] as their base camp they started exploring the mountain ranges, peaks, and valleys of the Annapurna massif. During this exploration, while making a reconnaissance of the higher reaches of the Dudh Khola, they clearly saw Manaslu from Bumtang. Three months later, after their aborted trip to [[Annapurna IV]], Tilman, accompanied by Major [[J. O. M. Roberts]], trekked to Larkya La pass and from there saw Manaslu and its plateau and concluded that there was a direct route to the summit, although they did not make an attempt on it.<ref name=r13_14>Reynolds, pp. 13–14</ref>

After the reconnaissance visit by Tilman, there were four [[Japan]]ese expeditions between 1950 and 1955 that explored the possibility of climbing Manaslu by the north and east faces.<ref name=Messner>Messner, p. 32</ref>

In 1952, a Japanese reconnaissance party visited the area after the [[monsoon]] season. In the following year (1953), a team of 15 climbers led by Y. Mita, after setting up base camp at Samagaon, attempted to climb via the east side but failed to reach the summit. In this first attempt by a Japanese team to summit via the northeast face, three climbers reached a height of {{convert|7750|m|ft}}, before turning back.<ref name=r11_12>Reynolds, pp. 11–12</ref>

In 1954, a Japanese team approaching the Buri Gandaki route to the peak faced a hostile group of villagers at Samagaon camp. The villagers thought that the previous expeditions had displeased the gods, causing the avalanches that destroyed the Pung-gyen Monastery and the death of 18 people. As a result of this hostility, the team made a hasty retreat to Ganesh Himal.<ref name=r14>Reynolds, p. 14</ref> To appease local sentiments, a large donation was made to rebuild the monastery. However, this philanthropic act did not ease the atmosphere of distrust and hostility towards Japanese expeditions. Even the expedition in 1956 which successfully climbed the mountain faced this situation and as a result the next Japanese expedition only took place in 1971.<ref name= Mayhew/>

In 1956, Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyaltsen Norbu (Sherpa) made the [[first ascent]] of Manaslu on May 9, 1956.<ref name=hj_1957/> The Japanese expedition was led by [[Maki Yūkō]], also known as Aritsune Maki.<ref name=NepalFF2018_FA/>

In 1956, [[David Snellgrove]], a noted scholar in [[Tibetan culture]] and [[Tibetan Buddhism|religion]], undertook a seven-month sojourn of mid-west and central Nepal. The route that he followed, accompanied by three Nepalese people, was via Bumtang and Buri Gandaki river and crossing over to the Larkya La.<ref name=r14/>

===1970s===
The next successful climb to the summit of Manaslu was in 1971. On May 17, 1971, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of an 11-man Japanese team, reached the summit via the north-west spur.<ref name=k2news/> Also in 1971, Kim Ho-sup led a [[Korea]]n expedition attempt via the north-east face. Kim Ki-sup fell to his death on May 4.<ref name=k2news/> In 1972, the south-west face was climbed for the first time by [[Reinhold Messner]] as part of an [[Austria]]n expedition.<ref name="aaj_1973_south"/><ref name=k2news/> In 1972, the Koreans attempted the north-east face. On April 10, an [[avalanche]] buried their camp at {{convert|6500|m|ft}}, killing fifteen climbers including ten [[Sherpa people|Sherpas]] and the Korean expedition leader Kim Ho-sup,<ref name="aaj_1973"/> and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan.<ref name=k2news/>  On April 22, 1973, Gerhard Schmatz, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber reached the summit via the north-east face. In the same year, a Spanish expedition led by Jaume Garcia Orts could reach only to {{convert|6100|m|ft}}.<ref name=k2news/> The first Japanese women expedition led by Kyoko Sato was successful on May 4, 1974,<ref>{{cite journal |author=Naoko Nakaseko (Translation by [[Ichiro Yoshizawa]]) |title=Japanese women's expedition – Manaslu 1974 |journal=[[Alpine Journal]] |volume=1975 |pages=94–99 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2094-99%20Nakaseko%20Manaslu.pdf |access-date=21 September 2023 |language=en |quote=... We aimed to make the first ascent of an 8000 metre peak by women and at the same time to put all the climbers on the expedition on to the top. .... . The expedition members were as follows: Kyoko Sato, Mrs Tsune Kuroishi, Mrs Naoko Nakaseko, Michiko Sekita, Mrs Masako Uchida, Mieko Mori, Masako Itakura, Mutsumi Nakajima, Teiko Suzuki, Tomoko lto, Shizu Harada and Naoko Kuribayashi. Captain P. S. Rana was Liaison Officer and Il1a Tsering was Sherpa sirdar. .... Shortly after 5.30pm on 4 May 3 climbers and one Sherpa stood on the summit of Manaslu one by one. 'Yare, Yare' (Here we are at last) was my first impression. ...}}</ref> when all members reached the summit after a failed attempt from the east ridge. They thus became the first women to climb [[Eight-thousander|a peak higher than {{convert|8000|m|ft|0}}]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Voiland |first=Adam |url=https://www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov/features/8000MeterPeaks |title=The Eight-Thousanders |website=Earth Observatory |publisher=[[NASA]] |date=16 December 2013 |access-date=21 September 2023}}</ref> However, one climber died on May 5 when she fell between camps 4 and 5.<ref name=k2news/>
[[File:Manaslu - Thulagi Chuli - Ngadi Chuli.jpg|left|thumb|Manaslu (L), Thulagi (M), Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, R)]]

===1980s===
In the pre-monsoon period of 1980, a South Korean team led by Li In-jung reached the summit via the normal route, which was the eighth ascent to the peak.<ref name=Messner/> The year 1981 marked several expeditions: the largest contingent of 13 climbers of a team organized by the Sport-Eiselin of Zurich led by H. V. Kaenel, made it to the summit along the normal route; in autumn, French mountaineers opened a new route, a variation of the west face route; and a Japanese team, led by Y. Kato, made an ascent via the normal route.<ref name=Messner/> In 1983, two climbers from [[Yugoslavia]], trying to climb the peak from the south face, were buried under an [[avalanche]]. One of them was [[Nejc Zaplotnik]], a notable climber of Slovenian origin. A Korean team reached the summit in the autumn of the same year. A German team led by G. Harter was successful in climbing the peak via the south face, which followed the "1972 Tyrolean Route".<ref name=Messner/>

On May 10, 1983, four men from the Joint Services East Nepal Expedition made the first British ascent of Manaslu North using a totally new route, special permission from the Nepalese Government having been granted to access an area normally denied to Europeans; the team was led by Major Douglas Keelan of the Royal Marines and included members from the Royal Navy, Royal Air Force and Royal Marines.<ref>Joint Services postal cover RAF(AC)6</ref>

During the winter of 1983–84, a [[Poland|Polish]] team led by L. Korniszewski successfully followed the Tyrolean Route.  On January 12, 1984, [[Maciej Berbeka]] and [[Ryszard Gajewski]] of that expedition made the first winter ascent via the normal route.<ref name=NepalFF2018_WFA/><ref name=aaj_1984_fwa/>

In the spring season of 1984, a Yugoslav team led by A. Kunaver climbed the peak via the south face. During the same year, in autumn, Polish teams climbed the south ridge and south-east face.<ref name=Messner/>

On November 9, 1986, [[Jerzy Kukuczka]], [[Artur Hajzer]], and Carlos Carsolio made the first climb of the east summit (7894 m) of Manaslu.<ref name=summit/> The next day, Kukuczka and Hajzer reached the summit via a new route, ascending the east ridge and descending the north-east face.<ref name=Messner/>

===1990s===
On May 2, 1993, Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Floßmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr. Michael Leuprecht reached the summit via the normal route and descended on skis from {{convert|7000|m|ft}} to the basecamp. The [[Austria]]n expedition was led by Arthur Haid.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.manaslu.at|title=1993 Tyrolean Ski Expedition}}</ref> On December 8, 1995, [[Anatoli Boukreev]] summited Manaslu with the Second [[Kazakhstan]] Himalaya Expedition. On May 12, 1996, [[Carlos Carsolio]] and his younger brother Alfredo, reached the summit of Manaslu. For Carsolio it was his fourteenth and final [[eight-thousander]], becoming the fourth person in history and the youngest to achieve the feat.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.clubalpinomexicano.com.mx/estadisticas.htm |title=Estadishcas |access-date=2010-04-13 |publisher=Climb Alpino Mexicano |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100315112030/http://www.clubalpinomexicano.com.mx/estadisticas.htm |archive-date=March 15, 2010 }}</ref> In 1997, [[Charlie Mace]] made the first [[United States|American]] ascent.<ref name=k2news/>

===2000s===
During the spring of 2000, there were four expeditions to Manaslu. One climb was on the east face by the 'Japan 2000 Expedition' led by Yoshio Maruyama. The other three were on the north-east ridge: the ETB 2000 Expedition of Spain led by Felix Maria I. Iriate; the 2000 Korean Manaslu Expedition of Korea led by Han Wang Yong; and the Manaslu 2000 Expedition from Italy led by Franco Brunello.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/manaslu1.htm|title=Manaslu 2000|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref> On May 22, 2001, a three-member team of [[Ukraine]] Himalaya 2001 Expedition comprising Serguiy Kovalov, Vadim Leontiev and [[Vladislav Terzyul]] successfully summited Manaslu via the challenging south-east face; all climbed without oxygen support. During the autumn of 2001, three members and a sherpa of the Japan Workers Alpine Federation climbed the peak via the north-east face on October 9, 2001.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/man2001.htm|title= Manaslu 2001 News and Expeditions|publisher=k2news.com|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref>

On May 13, 2002, five Americans, Tom Fitzsimmons, Jerome Delvin, Michael McGuffin, Dan Percival and Brian Sato and two Sherpas reached the summit.<ref name=summit/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.everestnews.com/man2002amer.htm|title=2002 American Manaslu Expedition|publisher=EverestNews.com|access-date=2014-01-14}}</ref>

[[Piotr Pustelnik]] and Krzysztof Tarasewicz climbed Manaslu on May 17, 2003. However, Dariusz Zaluski, Anna Czerwinska and Barbara Drousek, who started the climb after Piotr and Krzysztof, had to turn back due to strong winds and bad weather. With this ascent Pustelnik had summited 12 on his way to summiting the world's 14 highest peaks.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/2003/m03ppdis15.htm|title=Manaslu 2003 featuring Piotr Pustelnik|publisher=Everest News.com|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref>

On May 29, 2006, [[Australia]]n mountaineer [[Sue Fear]] died after falling into a crevasse on her descent after summiting.<ref>{{Cite news |date=2006-05-30 |title=Family mourns dead climber Sue Fear |url=https://www.abc.net.au/news/2006-05-31/family-mourns-dead-climber-sue-fear/1766514 |access-date=2025-01-03 |work=ABC News |language=en-AU}}</ref>

On December 1, 2006, former [[Formula 1]] driver [[Ukyo Katayama]] achieved his lifetime ambition of climbing Manaslu, after a prior unsuccessful attempt in 2004.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.autosport.com/news/grapevine.php/id/55853|title=Katayama scales Mt. Manaslu|publisher=Autosport.com|date=2006-12-01|access-date =2006-12-01}}</ref>

In 2008, Valerie Parkinson was the first British woman to climb Manaslu.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.project-himalaya.com/8000m-manaslu.html |title=Manaslu Expedition 8163m |publisher=Project Himalaya |access-date=2010-04-13 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100302022911/http://www.project-himalaya.com/8000m-manaslu.html |archive-date=2010-03-02 }}</ref>

===2010s===
In 2011 [[Arjun Vajpai]], an Indian mountaineer, summitted Manaslu on October 5 and became the youngest climber in the world to have summitted Manaslu at the age of 18.<ref name=rediff>{{cite web|url=http://www.rediff.com/news/report/arjun-becomes-youngest-to-scale-8156-m-high-mt-manaslu/20111005.htm|title=Arjun becomes youngest to scale 8,156-m-high Mt Manaslu|date=October 5, 2011|work=rediff.com|access-date=2014-01-14}}</ref>

Eleven climbers were killed in an avalanche on September 23, 2012.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.cnn.com/2012/09/23/world/asia/nepal-avalanche/index.html|title=Avalanche kills climbers at one of world's highest peaks|publisher=CNN|date=September 23, 2012|access-date=2014-01-03}}</ref> American free skier [[Glen Plake]], who had planned to ski down Manaslu without supplemental oxygen, was a survivor.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/14/sports/after-avalanche-record-climb-is-bittersweet.html |title=After Avalanche, Record Climb Is Bittersweet |date=October 13, 2012 |newspaper=The New York Times |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121017005421/https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/14/sports/after-avalanche-record-climb-is-bittersweet.html |archive-date=2012-10-17 |accessdate=2020-07-19}}</ref>

On September 25, 2014, Polish ski-mountaineer [[Andrzej Bargiel]] set a record time from base camp to summit at 14 hours 5 minutes and also record time for base-peak-base of 21 hours 14 minutes.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?url=speed-on-manaslu-andrzej-bargiels-new-re_141172898|title=Speed on Manaslu: Andrzej Bargiel's New Record|publisher=ExplorersWeb.com|access-date=2014-10-11}}</ref>

=== 2020s ===
[[File:Sheikha_Asma_Al_Thani.jpg|thumb|Sheikha Asma Al Thani]]
In 2021 Qatari mountaineer, [[Asma Al Thani]], summited and became the first Arab to do so without oxygen.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|date=2021-11-10|title=Sheikha Asma Al Thani becomes first Qatari woman to summit Nepal's Mount Ama Dablam|url=https://www.dohanews.co/sheikha-asma-al-thani-becomes-first-qatari-woman-to-summit-nepals-mount-ama-dablam/|access-date=2022-01-06|website=Doha News {{!}} Qatar|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2021-09-28|title=Sheikha Asma: first Arab woman to climb 8,000er without oxygen|url=https://gulf-times.com/story/701293|access-date=2022-01-06|website=Gulf-Times|language=ar}}</ref>

On the morning of September 26, 2022, an avalanche struck the route 24,000&nbsp;ft., just below Camp IV at Mount Manaslu, enveloping 13 climbers which also killed Nepali guide Anup Rai. The climbers were ferrying logistics to the high camps before their summit push.<ref>{{cite news |title=Indian climber among injured as avalanche hits Nepal's Mt Manaslu |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/world/indian-climber-among-injured-as-avalanche-hits-nepals-mt-manaslu-8174950/ |work=The Indian Express |date=27 September 2022 |language=en}}</ref> On the same day, American ski mountaineer [[Hilaree Nelson]] fell down more than 1,800 metres (6,000&nbsp;ft) from the summit of Mount Manaslu while skiing with her partner, Jim Morrison.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/hilaree-nelson-missing-manaslu-deadly-avalance/ |title=Hilaree Nelson is Missing on Manaslu After a Deadly Day on the Mountain |date=26 September 2022 }}</ref> On September 28 her body was located above the Thulagi glacier on the south-west face of Mount Manaslu and was flown to Kathmandu by rescuers.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/missing-ski-mountaineer-hilaree-nelson-found-dead |title=Missing ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson found dead
|date=September 28, 2022 |work=[[The Himalayan Times]] |place=Kathmandu |access-date=2022-10-03}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last1=Sharma |first1=Bhadra |last2=Schmall |first2=Emily |date=2022-09-28 |title=U.S. Mountaineer's Body Found Two Days After Avalanche on Peak in Nepal |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/28/world/asia/hilaree-nelson-death-avalanche.html |accessdate=2022-10-05 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref>

On January 6, 2023, Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon, along with six sherpa climbers, made a successful winter ascent of Mount Manaslu, which had not been summited in winter in over 20 years.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://mteveresttoday.com/manaslu-winter-summit/|title=Manaslu winter summit |date=6 January 2023 |access-date=2023-01-06}}</ref>

On September 23, 2023, Nawal Sfendla became the first Moroccan to summit Manaslu.<ref>{{Cite web |date=25 September 2023 |title=Nawal Sfendla Becomes First Moroccan to Conquer Nepal's Manaslu Summit |url=https://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2023/09/357890/nawal-sfendla-becomes-first-moroccan-to-conquer-nepals-manaslu-summit |access-date=12 January 2024 |website=Morocco World News}}</ref>

===Risk===
Traditionally, the "spring" or " pre-monsoon" season is the least hazardous for bad weather, snowfall, and avalanches. Manaslu is one of the more risky 8000ers to climb: as of May 2008, there have been 297 ascents of Manaslu and [[List of deaths on eight-thousanders#Manaslu|53 deaths on the mountain]],<ref name=8000ers/> making it "the 4th most dangerous 8000m peak, behind [[Annapurna]], [[Nanga Parbat]], and [[K2]]."<ref name=summit/>

====Avalanches====
*2012 September: Nine people were killed and several went missing. The dead included Nepali, a Spanish and four French nationals. Five climbers were rescued after the avalanche.<ref>{{Cite news| title = Himalayas avalanche sweeps away climbers in Nepal| work = BBC News| accessdate = 2022-10-05| date = 2012-09-23| url = https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-19691512}}</ref>
*2022 September 26: Anup Rai, a Nepali mountain guide, died in the avalanche while ferrying loads to Camp IV.
*2022 October 1: An avalanche on the lower flanks of the mountain killed Nepali guide Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, who had been descending from Camp 2 to Camp 1.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Dreier |first=Fred |date=2022-10-03 |title=Avalanches Killed Another Climber on Manaslu |url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/manaslu-avalanche-death/ |access-date=2022-10-16 |website=Outside Online |language=en-US}}</ref>

===Verification issues===
Manaslu has been identified as being one of the most problematic eight-thousanders for summit verification. Like [[Shishapangma]], Manaslu has a false summit that is separated from the true summit by a long and dangerous sharp corniced ridge.<ref name=NYT1>{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/tallest-mountain-summit.html | title=Only 44 people have reached the summit of all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, according to the people who chronicle such things. | first=John | last=Branch | date=21 May 2021 | accessdate=10 December 2021 | newspaper=[[New York Times]] | author-link=John Branch (journalist)}}</ref>  In 2021, an investigation by a team of international experts reported in the ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'' that the vast majority of climbers who claimed to have summited Manaslu had not in fact stood on the true peak.<ref name=AAJ1>{{cite aaj | date =June 2021 | first=Damien | last=Gildea | article_id=13201215692 | access-date=10 December 2021 | title=THE 8000-ER MESS | volume=62 | issue=94 | author-link=Damien Gildea}}</ref>