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Cummerbund
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{{Short description|Broad waist sash}} {{Use dmy dates|date=March 2022}} [[File:Cummerbund (AM 1967.28-3).jpg|thumb|250px|[[Black tie]] cummerbund]] A '''cummerbund''' is a broad waist [[sash]], usually [[pleat]]ed, which is often worn with [[single-breasted]] [[dinner jacket]]s (or ''tuxedos'').<ref>{{Citation | last1 = Villarosa | last2 = Angeli | year = 1990 | title = The Elegant Man: How to Construct the Ideal Wardrobe | page = 148}}.</ref> The cummerbund was adopted by [[British Empire|British]] military officers in [[colonial India]], where they saw it worn by [[sepoys]] (Indian soldiers) of the [[British Indian Army]].<ref name="auto">{{Cite web | url=https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/vintage-evening-wear/waistcoats-vests-cummerbunds/ | title = Black Tie Guide: Vintage Evening Waistcoats & Cummerbunds | website = Gentleman's Gazette | date = n.d. | access-date = 28 September 2023}}</ref> It was adopted as an alternative to the [[waistcoat]], and later spread to civilian use. The modern use of the cummerbund for Europeans and North Americans is as a component of the traditional [[black tie]] [[Western dress codes|Western dress code]].<ref name="auto"/> ==Etymology== [[File:Kamarband (cummerbund) 1.jpg|thumb|Persian military kamarbands]] The word ''cummerbund'' is the Anglicized form of Hindustani ''kamarband'' ([[Hindustani language|Hindustani]]: कमरबंद; {{Nastaliq|کمربند}}), which originated from the Persian ({{Langx|fa|کمربند|kamarband}}).<ref name=":0" /> It entered [[English language#Vocabulary|English vocabulary]] in 1616 from India. It is a combination of the words ''kamar'' meaning 'waist' and ''band'' meaning 'to close' or 'fasten' (not to be confused with ‘band’ from Old Norse, reinforced in late Middle English by Old French bande, of Germanic origin; related to bind). The 'waist-band' was a sash accessory worn by Indian men for many occasions.<ref name=":0">{{Cite dictionary |url=http://www.lexico.com/definition/Cummerbund |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729015959/https://www.lexico.com/definition/cummerbund |url-status=dead |archive-date=29 July 2020 |title=Cummerbund |dictionary=[[Lexico]] UK English Dictionary |publisher=[[Oxford University Press]]}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=cummerbund |url=https://www.thefreedictionary.com/cummerbund |website=[[Thefreedictionary.com]] |publisher=[[American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language]] |date=2016}}</ref> The word ''cummerband'' (see below), and less commonly the German spelling {{lang|de|Kummerbund}} (a Germanized spelling variation of the English word), are often used synonymously with ''cummerbund'' in English. ==Description== ===Form and occasion=== [[File:Cummerbund_(drawing).jpg|thumb|Cummerbund with [[dress shirt]]]] The form of the cummerbund is a wide band around the waist. The fastening is a ribbon around the back, tied or held shut by a buckle or [[velcro]]. The contemporary use of the cummerbund is purely aesthetic, providing a transition between the shirt and the waistband.<ref>{{Citation | author-link = Alan Flusser| last = Flusser | first = Alan | year = 2002 | title = Dressing the Man | page = 246}}.</ref> They have also expanded in less formal situations into use with components of white tie, particularly by musicians, who sometimes wear a white cummerbund instead of the traditional [[Piqué (weaving)|piqué]] waistcoat.<ref>{{Citation | last = Walroth | first = Chris | date = March 2001 | title = Behind | url = http://thewholenote.com/wholenote_mar_01/behind.html | newspaper = The Wholenote Magazine | url-status = live | archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20090215043139/http://thewholenote.com/wholenote_mar_01/behind.html | archivedate = 15 February 2009 }}.</ref> ===Pleats=== The pleats face up because they were originally used to hold ticket stubs and similar items,<ref name="Bridges">Bridges, John (2008). ''How to be a Gentleman: A Timely Guide to Timeless Manners'' Nashville, TN: Thomas Nelson.</ref>{{Page needed | date = November 2013}} explaining the slang name 'crumb-catcher'. However, the cummerbunds worn as part of the [[Uniforms of the United States Army|US Army]] Blue Mess and Blue Evening Mess uniforms are worn with the pleats down, as prescribed by Army Regulation 670–1 Chapter 24 Section 10(b). The [[Uniforms of the United States Navy|US Navy Uniform]] Regulations NAVPERS 15665 stipulate the cummerbund be worn with the pleats up for the Navy Dinner Dress Jacket. ===Colours=== Its origin as part of [[black tie]] determined the acceptable colours. It was adopted as civilian dress, beginning as a largely summer option with informal dinner jackets, such as Burmese fawn and white, later, it was restricted to the narrow range of colours which accompany black tie. These were predominantly black, sometimes [[midnight blue]] to match the trousers, and occasionally maroon (the normal hue for coloured accessories). In contemporary use, it is now common to see coloured bow ties and cummerbunds, often matching, but this is considered non-traditional.<ref name="Bridges"/>[[File:Cummerbund.jpg|thumb|upright|Brightly coloured cummerbund]] == Military cummerbunds == Most units of the [[Army of Africa (France)|French Army of Africa]] wore cummerbunds of two different colours: blue for the European soldiers of the [[Zouaves]] and [[Chasseurs d'Afrique]]; and red for the native [[Spahis]] and [[Tirailleurs]].<ref>André Jouineau, "The French Army in 1914", pages 45-63, {{ISBN|978-2-352-50104-6}}</ref> Some modern French regiments with a [[French colonial empire|colonial history origin]], still retain cummerbunds as part of their full dress uniform (notably the French Foreign Legion and the Spahis). Cummerbunds (kamarbands) were an accessory to the dress uniform used in several modern South Asian armies, including the [[Indian Army]], the [[Pakistan Army]] and the [[Bangladesh Army]]. It is generally worn during ceremonial parades and dinners. The colour or combination of colours varies widely according to regiment or corps.<ref>John Gaylor, "Sons of John Company – the Indian and Pakistan Armies", {{ISBN|0-946771-98-7}}</ref> Unlike the civilian cummerbund, a leather belt is worn above this cloth piece and one end hangs free displaying an ornamental fringe. [[File:Władysław Czachórski - Portrait of Stanisław Czachórski (1853–1904), artist’s brother - MP 3963 - National Museum in Warsaw.jpg|thumb|Portrait of Stanisław Czachórski (1853–1904), depicted with a blue cummerbund in a masquerade outfit. Painting by the subject's brother, [[Władysław Czachórski]], 1886]] == Athletic cummerbunds == During the 19th and early 20th centuries, cotton cummerbunds were commonly worn by athletes participating in [[gymnastic]] and/or [[combat sport]] training and competition. == Cummerbunds in scuba diving == A ''cummerbund'' is also an informal word used in scuba diving to mean a wide waistband either on a [[buoyancy compensator (diving)|buoyancy control device]] designed to provide more comfort to the user than a standard waistband and usually made of a stout fabric backed with velcro fastenings, or on a two-piece [[dry suit]] where a flexible rubber waistband helps to maintain a watertight seal between the jacket and the pants of the suit.{{cn|date=November 2023}} == In women's fashion == In some cases cummerbund can be worn as an element of an evening dress.{{cn|date=November 2023}} [[File:1912 evening dress.jpg|none|thumb|239x239px|Evening dress, Spring 1913 by [[Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon]] ]] ==See also== * [[Haramaki (clothing)]] * [[Obi (sash)#Men's obi]] * [[Obi (martial arts)]] ==References== {{reflist}} {{commons category}} {{clothing}} [[Category:Indian English idioms]] [[Category:Belts (clothing)]] [[Category:Fashion accessories]] [[Category:Sportswear]] [[Category:Semi-formal wear]] [[he:אבנט]]
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