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Distaghil Sar
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{{short description|Mountain in Pakistan}} {{Infobox mountain | name = Disteghil Sar | photo = Distaghil ISS.JPG | photo_caption = Disteghil Sar seen from space | elevation_m = 7885 | elevation_ref = <ref name="peaklist">{{cite web|url=http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html|title=High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal) |publisher= Peaklist.org | accessdate=2014-05-27}}</ref><br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 19th]]</small> | prominence_m = 2525 | prominence_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/> | native_name ={{lang|ur|{{nq|دستاغل سر}}}} | map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan | map_caption = Pakistan | map_size = 260 | map_image={{Karakoram OSM}} | label_position = bottom | listing = [[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]] | location = Nazimabad Shishkat, [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] region, [[Pakistan]] | range = [[Hispar Muztagh]], [[Karakoram]] | coordinates = {{coord|36|19|33|N|75|11|18|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | coordinates_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/> | first_ascent = 9 June 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an [[Austria]]n team | easiest_route = Glacier/snow/ice climb }} {{chinese |s=迪斯特吉峰 }} '''Disteghil Sar''' or '''Distaghil Sar''' ({{langx|ur|{{nq|دستاغل سر}}}}) is the highest mountain in the Baltin Bar Nallah Shishkat, [[Hunza Valley|Hunza]]. It is part of the [[Karakoram]] [[mountain range]] in [[Gilgit-Baltistan]], [[Pakistan]]. It is the [[List of highest mountains|19th-highest]] mountain on Earth, the 7th-highest in Pakistan, and the first of the high peaks after [[Shishapangma]] to be the tallest independent summit of its own subrange. ''Disteghil sar'' is a [[Wakhi language]] word suggested by the [[Wakhi people]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://echidna.rutgers.edu/expeditions/Hispar/Default.htm |title=Hispar area expeditions |website=echidna.rutgers.edu |access-date=15 January 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080427142155/http://echidna.rutgers.edu/expeditions/Hispar/Default.htm |archive-date=27 April 2008 |url-status=dead}}</ref> meaning "above the inner ranch." The mountain has a {{convert|3|km|mi|adj=mid|-long}} top ridge above 7,400 meters elevation, with three distinct summits: Northwest, 7,885 m; Central, 7,760 m; and Southeast, 7,696m or 7,535m. ==Climbing history== The first recorded attempt to climb Distaghil Sar was made in 1957 by an English expedition led by [[Alfred_Gregory|Alf Gregory]]. That team attempted to climb the mountain from the south and the west, they reached {{convert|21300|ft|m}} but were defeated by bad weather.<ref>{{cite journal | title = Disteghil Sar, 1957 | journal =Himalayan Journal| date= 1958| first =Dennis | last = Davis | volume =#21 | pages=108-116 | access-date =11 June 2024 |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/21/12/disteghil-sar/ }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | title = Disteghil Sar 1957 | website =MEF – Mount Everest Foundation| access-date = 13 June 2024 |url = https://www.mef.org.uk/expeditions/disteghil-sar-1957 }}</ref> Unfavourable weather also foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge led by [[Raymond Lambert]].<ref name=Starker/> The first successful ascent was made in 1960 by Günther Stärker and {{ill|Diether Marchart|de}} who were part of an [[Austria]]n expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the south face and continued over the southwest ridge to reach the highest summit on 9th June.<ref>{{cite journal | title = Disteghil Sar, 25,868 feet - The account of the Austrian Karakorum Expedition 1960 | journal =Alpine Journal| date= 1961| first =Wolfgang | last = Stefan | issn= 0065-6569 |volume =#66 | issue=302 | pages= 1-8 | access-date = 11 June 2024 |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1961_files/AJ%201961%201%20-%208%20Stefan%20Distaghil%20Sar.pdf }}</ref><ref name=Starker>{{cite journal | title = Disteghil Sar, 1960 | journal =Himalayan Journal| date= 1960| first =Günther | last = Stärker | volume =#22 | pages=120-133 | access-date = 11 June 2024 |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/22/15/disteghil-s-ar-1960/ }}</ref> The eastern summit is independent of the main, western, summit and about 100m lower; it was first climbed over the east face in 1980 by a Polish expedition which included [[Tadeusz_Piotrowski_(mountaineer)|Tadeusz Piotrowski]]. All participants of the expedition reached the summit.<ref>{{cite web | title = The history of Polish climbing – Karakorum. Cz.I (1969-1980) | website =wspinanie.pl| date= 13 July 2010| first =Janusz | last = Kurczab | access-date = 11 June 2024 |url = https://wspinanie.pl/2010/07/historia-polskiego-wspinania-karakorum-czi-lata-1969-1980/#yazghil }}</ref> It was reascended in 1983. It was more than 20 years before a second successful ascent of the highest, western summit. The [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index] lists another ascent of the peak in 1980 and a Spanish team made an ascent in 1982 by following a route close to the one taken in 1960.<ref>{{cite journal | title = Asia, Pakistan, Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=1983| issn= 0065-6925 | first =Joaquim| last = Prunés | isbn= 0930410211 | volume =#25 |issue=57 | pages=280 | access-date = 11 June 2024 |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198328001/Asia-Pakistan-Distaghil-Sar-Second-Ascent }}</ref> Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998,<ref>{{cite web | title = 1998 British Distaghil Sar N Face | website =MEF – Mount Everest Foundation| access-date = 13 June 2024 |url = https://www.mef.org.uk/expeditions/1998-british-distaghil-sar-n-face }}</ref> were unsuccessful. An attempt on the north ridge in 2008 was abandoned soon after the party arrived because dramatic changes to the terrain, which had occurred over the previous ten years or so, had resulted in conditions becoming extremely dangerous.<ref>{{cite web | title = UK-Canadian Distaghil Sar 2008 | website =MEF – Mount Everest Foundation| access-date = 13 June 2024 |url = https://www.mef.org.uk/expeditions/uk-canadian-distaghil-sar-2008 }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal | title = Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Disteghil, Sar, Attempt | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2009| issn= 0065-6925 | first =Bruce | last = Normand | isbn= 978-1933056098 | volume =#51 | issue=83 | pages=272-273 | access-date = 13 June 2024 |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200927200/Asia-Pakistan-Karakoram-Hispar-Muztagh-Disteghil-Sar-Attempt }}</ref> ==See also== * [[List of mountains in Pakistan]] * [[List of highest mountains|Highest Mountains of the World]] ==References== {{Reflist}} ==Sources== *[http://www.himalaya-info.org/hohe_siebentausender.htm Hohe Siebentausender] (in German) *[http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ The Himalayan Index] [[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram]] [[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]] {{GilgitBaltistan-geo-stub}} {{Pakistan-geo-stub}}
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