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Double bowline
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{{Short description|Type of loop knot}} {{Infobox knot | name=Double bowline | image= Doublebowline.jpg | names= Round Turn Bowline, Double-Knotted Bowline | type= loop | strength= 70-75% | origin= | related= [[Bowline]], [[Water bowline]], [[Double sheet bend]], [[Bowline on a bight]] | releasing= | uses= [[climbing]] | caveat= | abok_number= #1013 }} A '''double bowline''' (or '''round turn bowline''') is a type of [[List of loop knots|loop]] [[knot]]. Instead of the single turn of the regular [[bowline]], the double bowline uses a [[round turn]]. This forms a more secure loop than a standard bowline.<ref name="Ashley book of knots by Ashley">{{Cite book| last=Ashley | first=Clifford W | location=New York | title=[[The Ashley Book of Knots]] | year=1944 | publisher=Doubleday | page=186 | isbn=978-0-385-04025-9|oclc=156951323}}</ref> ==Naming== Though called "double bowline" by [[Clifford Ashley]], this name is also reasonably descriptive of a different knot: the [[bowline on a bight]]. Because of this ambiguity some sources differentiate by using one of the alternate names above. And at least one other source uses the name "double bowline" for a mid-line loop knot made by tying a basic bowline with a [[bight (knot)|bight]] of rope instead of the end.<ref name="Mountaineering edited by Cox and Fulsaas">{{Cite book| editor-first=Steven M. | editor-last=Cox | editor2-first=Kris | editor2-last=Fulsaas | title=Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills | publisher=The Mountaineers Books | year=2003 | edition=7th | page=119 | isbn=978-0-89886-827-2}}</ref> ==Tying== First, learn to tie the bowline by laying the working end on the standing part and twisting to form a loop (the "hole" that the rabbit comes out of). Wrap the loop once more around the working end. Then pass the working end behind the standing part and back down through the double loop. ==Uses== The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in [[climbing]], along with the [[Figure-eight follow through|figure eight follow through]]<ref name="Rock Climbing by Luebben">{{cite book | title=Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills | publisher=Mountaineers Books | author=Luebben, Craig | year=2004 | location=Seattle, WA | page=301 | isbn=978-0-89886-743-5}}</ref><ref name="Knack Rock Climbing by Green, Spencer-Green, and Doolittle">{{cite book | title=Knack Rock Climbing: A Beginner's Guide: From the Gym to the Rocks | publisher=Globe Pequot | last1=Green | first1=Stewart M | last2=Ian | first2=Spencer-Green | last3=Mark | first3=Doolittle | year=2010 | location=Guilford, Connecticut | page=[https://archive.org/details/knackrockclimbin0000gree/page/256 256] | isbn=978-1-59921-852-6 | url-access=registration | url=https://archive.org/details/knackrockclimbin0000gree/page/256 }}</ref> and the [[Yosemite bowline]].<ref>{{cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/rockclimbingoutd00wild|url-access=registration|title=Rock Climbing|last1=Kidd|first1=Timothy W.|last2=Hazelrigs|first2=Jennifer|date=2009|publisher=Human Kinetics|isbn=9781450409001|pages=[https://archive.org/details/rockclimbingoutd00wild/page/136 136]|access-date=12 October 2014}}</ref> The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall,<ref name="Rock Climbing by Luebben" /><ref name="Knack Rock Climbing by Green, Spencer-Green, and Doolittle" /> and so is used by [[Sport climbing|sport climbers]] who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights.<ref name="Rock Climbing by Luebben" /><ref name="Knack Rock Climbing by Green, Spencer-Green, and Doolittle" /> The disadvantages of the double bowline are that it is less secure than a figure eight knot, takes longer to tie, and is not as easy to check.<ref name="Rock Climbing by Luebben" /><ref name="Knack Rock Climbing by Green, Spencer-Green, and Doolittle" /> Unlike the figure eight, there are many variations of the bowline, with ambiguous names, and some are not safe for climbing.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=H6hiCwAAQBAJ|title=Rock Climbing: Technique {{!}} Equipment {{!}} Safety β With an Introduction to Indoor Climbing|last=Heise-Flecken|first=Detlef|last2=Flecken|first2=Gabi|date=2016-03-28|publisher=Meyer & Meyer Verlag|isbn=9781782550358|pages=20|language=en|quote=double bowline is more complicated than the Figure Eight and partner checks are harder to verify. ... single bowline is not safe while the double bowline is difficult to tie but is easier to undo after taking strain}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112122298/incident-climbers-bowline-came-untied-while-climbing-at-rifle|title=Incident: Climber's Bowline Came Untied While Climbing at Rifle|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-07-14|quote=there are many versions of the bowline, some of which are unsafe for climbing ... Bowline on a Bight, Retraced Through Harness w/ Yosemite Finish ... is the safest option}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/rockclimbingoutd00wild|url-access=registration|title=Rock Climbing|year=2009|publisher=Human Kinetics|isbn=9781450409001|language=en|quote=Because this knot unties so easily, sometimes even by simply rubbing against your body}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=r3bahfDuBEIC|title=Knack Knots You Need: Step-by-Step instructions for More Than 100 of the Best Sailing, Fishing, Climbing, Camping and Decorative Knots|last=Tilton|first=Buck|date=2008-09-02|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|isbn=9781599217598|language=en|quote=A knot that can be shaken loose to spill of its own accord, such as the bowline ... is an insecure knot.}}</ref> The [[Bowline on a bight]], when re-threaded instead of being tied on a bight, can also be used for tying into a climbing harness and provides more strength and security than the double bowline. ==See also== *[[List of knots]] ==References== {{reflist}} ==External links== * {{cite web |date=2020-08-01 |author=Little Campfires |title=How to Tie a Bowline Knot (Plus Variations): Double Bowline |url=https://youtube.com/watch?v=lS82ju__nyk?t=333 |website=YouTube}} * [http://notableknotindex.webs.com/doublebowline.html Double Bowline] at Notable Knot Index. {{Knots}} [[Category:Climbing knots]] [[Category:Caving knots]] {{knot-stub}}
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