Editing First ascent

{{Short description|Mountaineering and climbing term}}
[[File:Spectrum514d.jpg| thumb|[[Jonathan Siegrist]] on the [[first free ascent]] (FFA) of ''Spectrum'' {{climbing grade|5.14c}}, [[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Red Rocks, Nevada]].]]
{{Climbing sidebar}}
In [[mountaineering]] and [[climbing]], a '''first ascent''' (abbreviated to '''FA''' in [[climbing guidebook|guide book]]s), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a [[mountain]] or the top of a particular [[climbing route]].  Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (e.g. the [[eight-thousander]]s) and climbing routes (e.g. the [[great north faces of the Alps]]) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of [[aid climbing]], and/or with large [[expedition style]] support teams that laid "siege" to the climb. 

As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called [[free climbing]]. In free climbing, the term '''first free ascent''' (abbreviated '''FFA''') is used where a mountain or climbing route is ascended without any artificial aid (devices for [[climbing protection|protection]] in the event of a fall could be used as long as they did not aid progression).  Completing the FFA of a climbing route is often called '''freeing''' (or more latterly '''sending''') a route.

As the sport of climbing developed, additional types of ascent became notable and chronicled in guidebooks and journals.  In mountaineering, and [[alpine climbing]] in particular, the '''first winter ascent''' is recorded, given the significantly greater difficulty.  The '''first solo ascent''' is also commonly noted, although the '''first free solo ascent''' is a more controversial aspect, given the concerns about advocating such a dangerous form of climbing.  With the rise in female participation in climbing, the '''first female free ascent''' (or '''FFFA''') has also become notable.

== In mountaineering and alpinism==
[[File:First ascent.JPG|thumb|Danish climbers [[Kristoffer Szilas]] and Martin Ploug (pictured) nearing the summit of the unclimbed peak, [[Ren Zhong Feng]] (5800m), in China via their new route ''Lost to Ice'' (grade [[Grade (climbing)#Mountaineering|TD M4, WI4]], 1300m)]]
As mountaineering developed in the 20th century, the attainment of a summit by almost any means was replaced by ascents that reflected the style used and the conditions faced.  In 2008, the most prestigious annual prize in mountaineering, the [[Piolet d'Or]], amended its focus to small light-weight [[alpine style|alpine-style]] teams using no form of aid or support, rather than on large expedition-style teams using "siege" techniques.<ref name=NYT/>

The most notable types of mountaineering first ascents that are chronicled are:

* First ascent.  The most notable first ascents started with the [[golden age of alpinism]] when the main alpine peaks were summited (and often using [[aid climbing]]).  In the 1930s, the focus moved to the first ascents of the [[great north faces of the Alps]], and the [[Eiger]] in particular.  The 1950s saw the first ascents of most of the fourteen [[eight-thousander]]s, and [[Everest]] in particular.  By the 1980s, the rock spires of [[Trango Towers]] in the [[Karakorum]], and [[Torres del Paine National Park|Torres del Paine]] in [[Patagonia]] also had first ascents.

* First winter ascent.  The winter climbing season is between December 21 and March 20.<ref name=NG>{{cite web | magazine=[[National Geographic]] | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/absolute-misery-climbers-complete-the-historic-first-winter-ascent-of-nanga-parbat-the-killer-mountain | first=Andrew | last=Bisharat | title=Climbers Make History Making First Winter Ascent of Pakistan's 'Killer Mountain'| date=27 February 2016 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210084226/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/absolute-misery-climbers-complete-the-historic-first-winter-ascent-of-nanga-parbat-the-killer-mountain | url-status=dead }}</ref>  The first winter ascents of the [[great north faces of the Alps]] were a coveted prize, particularly the "Trilogy" of the three hardest, the Eiger, the [[Matterhorn]], and the [[Grandes Jorasses]].  The most notable first winter ascents were the Himalayan and Karakoram [[eight-thousander]]s,<ref name=NG/> where the hardest, [[K2]], was only summited in winter in 2021 (66 years after its first ascent) and considered a "holy grail" of mountaineering prizes.<ref>{{cite web | newspaper=[[The Guardian]] | first=Peter | last=Beaumont | date=6 January 2021 | accessdate=9 February 2023 | url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/16/nepalese-team-makes-first-successful-winter-ascent-of-k2 | title=Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210083843/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/16/nepalese-team-makes-first-successful-winter-ascent-of-k2 | url-status=live }}</ref> 

* First alpine-style (or unsupported) ascent.  In 2008, the charter of the prestigious Piolet d'Or prize was amended to focus on small teams with no support making fast, but riskier, ascents on routes that had previously been done by expeditions (called [[alpine style]]).<ref name=HJ>{{cite journal | journal=[[Himalayan Journal]] | author-link=Bernadette McDonald | first=Bernadette | last=McDonald | url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/72/9/piolets-dor/ | date=2017 | accessdate=2 January 2023 | title=Piolets d'Or: A Short History of the Golden Ice Axe | volume=72 | archive-date=19 February 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220219154800/https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/72/9/piolets-dor/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-23rd-piolets-d-or-highlights | title=Highlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or | date=14 April 2015 | accessdate=1 January 2023 | first=Menno | last=Boermans | quote=The Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axes) were long considered to be the 'Oscars of Mountaineering' | archive-date=1 January 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230101161833/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-23rd-piolets-d-or-highlights | url-status=live }}</ref>  Multiple Piolet d'Or winners, whose ascents embodied this style, included [[Marko Prezelj]], [[Mick Fowler]], and [[Ueli Steck]].<ref name=HJ/>  The charter was amended to de-incentivize excessive risk-taking after several winners died (e.g. [[David Lama]], and [[Hansjörg Auer]]).<ref name=NYT>{{Cite news|last=Levy|first=Michael|date=2021-11-29|title=A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner's Last|language=en-US|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/11/29/sports/piolet-dor-climbing.html|access-date=2021-11-30|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=2021-11-30|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211130012050/https://www.nytimes.com/2021/11/29/sports/piolet-dor-climbing.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=IP>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP16/unwinnable-parnell | title=Victors of the Unwinnable | date=1 July 2006 | accessdate=2 January 2023 | first=Ian | last=Parnell | archive-date=13 January 2020 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200113075736/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP16/unwinnable-parnell | url-status=live }}</ref>

* First solo ascent.  The most dangerous form of alpine-style ascent is the [[solo climbing]] ascent, performed by a single climber.  The first solo ascents of the alpine north faces, including the first solo winter ascents, were coveted (the winter solo "Trilogy" was completed by [[Ivano Ghirardini]] in 1977–78); one of the most famous practitioners was the Italian [[Walter Bonatti]].<ref name=MT/> Himalayan solo ascents are also coveted, although problems around verification are more frequent due to the more remote nature of the routes, with notable disputes such as [[Tomo Česen]]'s first solo ascent of the south face of [[Lhotse]].<ref name=MT>{{cite book | title=Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber | author-link=Mark Twight | first=Mark | last=Twight | date=2001 | isbn=978-0898867633 | publisher=Mountaineering Books | chapter=My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen | pages=63–74 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC | accessdate=10 January 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210011146/https://books.google.com/books?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC | url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=HJ/><ref name=IP/>

==In rock climbing==
[[Image:Adam Ondra climbing Silence 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 3.jpg|thumb|[[Adam Ondra]] making the first redpoint ascent of ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]'', the world's first {{climbing grade|9c}} sport climb.]]
In rock climbing, the manner in which the first free ascent was achieved became important to chronicle by climbing journals and magazines.  The key differentiators were the style on which the route was free climbed (e.g. [[traditional climbing]], [[sport climbing]], or [[free solo climbing]]), whether the free climb was done on the first attempt (e.g. [[onsight]]ed), and whether the climber had prior information (e.g. [[beta (climbing)|beta]]) on that first attempt.<ref name=CL2/><ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>

The most notable types of rock climbing first ascents that are chronicled are:

* First free ascent (traditional climbing only). Pre-1980s, the FFAs were by traditional climbing techniques. A distinction was recorded if a climber practiced the moves on a [[top roping|top rope]], called "[[headpoint|headpointing]]", although with the post-1980s dominance of "[[redpoint (climbing)|redpointing]]" as the definition of an FFA, such a distinction was dropped.{{efn|While headpointing was once considered a ''lesser form'' of first free ascent in traditional climbing (and an FFA that had been headpointed would be asterisked as such), leading traditional climbers eventually followed the redpointing practices of sport climbers (i.e. practicing the route over-and-over in a safe way), and dispensed with the stigma associated with headpointing.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | title=How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone | first=Mike | last=Huttom | date=3 November 2022 | accessdate=13 February 2023 | archive-date=28 August 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230828064122/https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | url-status=live }}</ref>  }}<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> FFAs that set new [[grade (climbing)|grade milestones]] are notable, for both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by women|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=4 January 2022 | archive-date=4 January 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220104131608/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | url-status=live }}</ref>

:* First greenpoint ascent (traditional climbing only).  In the 2010s, traditional climbers used [[Greenpoint (climbing)|greenpointing]] (as a counterpoint to a "redpoint"), to describe climbing a pre-bolted sport climbing route, but only using "traditional protection" (i.e. protection that is not permanently fixed via pre-placed bolts or pitons).<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/heiko-queitsch-greenpoint-climbing-in-the-frankenjura.html | title=Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura | date=3 August 2012 | accessdate=22 December 2022 | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190116/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/heiko-queitsch-greenpoint-climbing-in-the-frankenjura.html | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chasin-the-trane-greenpoint-in-the-frankenjura.html | date=7 November 2011 | accessdate=22 December 2022 | title=Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura | quote= | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222190427/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chasin-the-trane-greenpoint-in-the-frankenjura.html | url-status=live }}</ref> [[Sonnie Trotter]]'s greenpoint of ''The Path'' (5.14a R, 2007), is a notable example.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/sonnie-trotter-finds-the-path-514-r-at-lake-louise-alberta-canada.html | title=Sonnie Trotter finds The Path 5.14 R at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada | date=23 August 2007 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=8 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230208235256/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/sonnie-trotter-finds-the-path-514-r-at-lake-louise-alberta-canada.html | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|last=Lambert|first=Erik|date=31 August 2007|title=Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Project|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop|access-date=8 February 2023|magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]]|archive-date=8 February 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230208233826/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop|url-status=live}}</ref>

* First redpoint ascent (sport climbing only).  In the 1980s, climbers wanted to ascend routes that had no opportunities for traditional climbing protection, and they had to be [[bolt (climbing)|pre-bolted]] with protection (but not aid), which was called sport climbing.  Sport climbing has since set all new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|grade milestones]] in rock climbing. The "[[redpoint (climbing)|redpoint]]" became the accepted definition for what determined a "first free ascent" in sport climbing.<ref name=GR1>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022 | archive-date=22 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221222142957/https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=CR1>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climber | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-a-redpoint-in-climbing/ | title=What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained | date=2 October 2020 | accessdate=1 January 2022}}</ref> 

[[File:Heinz Zak, Separate Reality 5,11d, Free Solo, Yosemite-Nationalpark, Kalifornien, USA.jpg|thumb|{{ill|Heinz Zak|de}} makes the first repeat [[free solo]] ascent of ''[[Separate Reality (climb)|Separate Reality]]'' in [[Yosemite]]]]

* First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing).  The grading of a route can be complicated as the person making the FFA had no prior information or [[beta (climbing)|beta]].  The first repeat is therefore [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|chronicled]] for confirmation of a grade, particularly when a new grade milestone is proposed. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g. ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' or ''[[Jumbo Love]]''), or even decades (e.g. ''{{ill|Open Air (climb)|lt=Open Air|de|Open Air (Kletterroute)}}'').

* First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing).  An FFA that was [[onsight]]ed, means it was done at the very first attempt, and without prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>  Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones of onsights both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/>  

:* First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). An FFA that was [[flash (climbing)|flash]]ed, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> Climbing journals chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/> With the availability of route beta online (e.g. videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | title=Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean? | date=2 November 2022 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=28 January 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230128015604/https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

* First free solo ascent (independent of traditional or sport climbing).  [[Free solo]]ing is practiced by a smaller community of climbers and is a controversial area given the risks undertaken and whether such risks should be recorded and thus implicitly endorsed.<ref name=CFS/>  Free solo climbing [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-solo by men|grade milestones]] are chronicled,<ref name=PM/> the most notable being ''[[Free Solo]]'', the Oscar-winning film of [[Alex Honnold]]'s first free solo ascent of ''Freerider'' in [[Yosemite]].<ref name=CFS>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ | title=Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport | first=Alison | last=Osius | date=4 June 2022 | accessdate=26 November 2022 | archive-date=30 October 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221030032222/https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

===Gender===
[[File:Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg|thumb|[[Josune Bereziartu]] on the FFA and FFFA of ''Yeah Man'' (8b+ 5.14a, 300-metres, 9 pitches), on the Grand Pfad in Bern, Switzerland]]
* First female free ascent (abbreviated FFFA).<ref>{{cite journal | journal=[[American Alpine Journal]] | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199922702 | title=North America, United States, Nevada, Rainbow Wall, Various Activity | date=1999 | quote=A month later, Roxanna Brock teamed up with Bobbi Bensman to do the first female free ascent (FFFA) of the route in a day. | page=228 | volume=41 | issue=73 | access-date=2023-02-11 | archive-date=2023-02-11 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230211095248/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199922702 | url-status=live }}</ref>  Important female climbers emerged in the 1980s including [[Lynn Hill]] and [[Catherine Destivelle]] and climbing journals began to chronicle milestones in [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by women|female first free ascents]].<ref name=PM/> In some cases, an FFFA is also an FFA, the most [[History of rock climbing|famous example]] being Lynn Hill's 1993 FFA/FFFA of the 3,000-foot ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|Nose]]'' on [[El Capitan]] ([[Grade (climbing)|5.14a/b]]), considered the biggest prize in [[big wall climbing]], announced by Hill to the world's climbing media by: "It goes, boys".<ref name=OutsideUSA>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | date=1 June 2016 | access-date=4 December 2022 | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | author=Editorial | archive-date=4 December 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221204003915/https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | url-status=live }}</ref>  By the 2000s, [[Josune Bereziartu]], [[Angela Eiter]], and [[Ashima Shiraishi]] closed the gap to the highest sport climbing grades achieved by men to within one/two notches,<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=National Geographic | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/american-woman-reaches-a-new-milestone-in-rock-climbing | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220104202217/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/american-woman-reaches-a-new-milestone-in-rock-climbing | url-status=dead | archive-date=January 4, 2022 | date=1 March 2017 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | first=Andrew | last=Bishart | title=American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing}}</ref><ref name=CL1/> while [[Beth Rodden]] had fully closed the gap for traditional climbing.<ref name=CL1>{{cite magazine | magazine=Climbing| title=Can't Keep Her Down: A Consolidated History of Women's Climbing Achievements | first=Megan | last=Walsh | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/cant-keep-her-down-a-consolidated-history-of-womens-climbing-achievements/ | date=14 November 2017 | accessdate=29 January 2022 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220129204338/https://www.climbing.com/people/cant-keep-her-down-a-consolidated-history-of-womens-climbing-achievements/ |archive-date=29 January 2022 }}</ref>

==Notable disputes==

There have been notable disputes over claims of a first ascent (or first free ascent), for various reasons (disputes over the style employed, issues with verifiability, accusations of bad faith and fraud), and the most notable are where a new grade milestone and/or major advancement in difficulty is being proposed:<ref name=CL2>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/who-did-it-first-style-grades-and-dispute-in-first-ascents/ | title=Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents | first=Francis | last=Sanzarro | date=22 March 2022 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210095821/https://www.climbing.com/people/who-did-it-first-style-grades-and-dispute-in-first-ascents/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

===Mountaineering===

* First ascent of Everest: Arguably the most famous case of an unverified first ascent is whether [[George Mallory]] and/or [[Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)|Andrew Irvine]] reached the summit of Everest on the [[1924 British Mount Everest expedition|1924 Everest expedition]].  Subsequent Everest expeditions have not been able to answer the question including the 1999 [[Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition]], and the [[2007 Altitude Everest expedition]].

* First ascent of [[Cerro Torre]]: In 1959, [[Cesare Maestri]] claimed he and {{ill|Toni Egger|it}} summited, but that Egger who had the camera, was swept to his death by an avalanche on the descent. [[Lionel Terry]] called it "the greatest climbing feat of all time".<ref name=NG1/> Inconsistencies in Maestri's account, and the lack of equipment on the route, led most to doubt his claim.<ref name=NG1>{{cite web | magazine=[[National Geographic]] | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/patagonias-cerro-torre-climbing-controversy-maestri-unbolted | title=Patagonia's Cerro Torre Gets the Chop: Maestri Unbolted | first=David | last=Roberts | author-link=David Roberts (climber) | date=29 January 2012 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210135029/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/patagonias-cerro-torre-climbing-controversy-maestri-unbolted | url-status=dead }}</ref>  Maestri further inflamed the controversy by returning in 1970 and drilling 400 bolts onto his new ''Compressor Route'', to claim the second ascent.<ref name=NG1/> In 2012, yet more controversy followed when American climbers [[Hayden Kennedy (climber)|Hayden Kennedy]] and Jason Kruk, removed Maestri's bolts, enabling [[David Lama]] and Peter Ortner to make the FFA, for which all four won a 2013 [[Piolet d'Or]].<ref name=NG1/>

===Rock climbing===

* In 1995, French climber [[Fred Rouhling]] created a major controversy when he proposed ''{{ill|Akira (climb)|lt=Akira|fr|Akira (escalade)}}'' as the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|9b}} route, when the highest grade at the time, ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'', was only at {{climbing grade|9a}}.<ref name=PW/>  Rouhling faced an unprecedented level of personal vilification from parts of the climbing community on whether he had actually climbed the route, as all other attempts had failed.<ref name=PW>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine) | Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ | title=The Other Side of Fred Rouhling | first=Pete | last=Ward | date=2004 | accessdate=22 June 2022 | archive-date=22 June 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220622205227/https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ | url-status=live }}</ref>  In 2020, [[Sébastien Bouin]] made the first repeat of ''Akira'' and estimated its grade at {{climbing grade|9a}}, a grade Rouhling has climbed on other routes, and thus his FFA became accepted.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine) | Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/fred-rouhlings-akira-sees-first-repeats-since-1995-fa-receives-downgrade/ | title=Fred Rouhling's Akira Sees First Repeats Since 1995 FA, Receives Downgrade | first=Keven | last=Corrigan | date=23 November 2020 | accessdate=22 June 2022 | archive-date=22 June 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220622205220/https://www.climbing.com/news/fred-rouhlings-akira-sees-first-repeats-since-1995-fa-receives-downgrade/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-rouhling-akira-finally-repeated-after-25-years-sebastien-bouin-lucien-martinez.html | title=Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez | date=23 November 2020 | accessdate=22 June 2022 | archive-date=22 June 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220622210022/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-rouhling-akira-finally-repeated-after-25-years-sebastien-bouin-lucien-martinez.html | url-status=live }}</ref>

* In 2003, Spanish climber Bernabé Fernández proposed ''{{ill|Chilam Balam (climb)|lt=Chilam Balam|fr|Chilam Balam (escalade)}}'' as the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|9b+}} route, when the highest grade at the time, ''[[Realization (climb)|Realization]]'', was at {{climbing grade|9a+}}.  As with Fred Rouhling on ''Akira'', his claim provoked a significant backlash from parts of the climbing community and even accusations that he never completed an FFA (the person who belayed him could not be identified to help verification).<ref name=CL5/> The route was repeated in 2011 by [[Adam Ondra]] who downgraded it,<ref name=CL5>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-grabs-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ | title=Ondra Grabs Ascent of Chilam Balam | first=Amanda | last=Fox | date=13 April 2011 | accessdate=9 February 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210150423/https://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-grabs-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ | url-status=live }}</ref> and further repeats reduced its grade to circa {{climbing grade|9a+}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/sebastian-bouin-claims-third-ascent-of-chilam-balam-5-15b-spain/ | date=2014 | accessdate=8 February 2023 | title=Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210151459/https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/sebastian-bouin-claims-third-ascent-of-chilam-balam-5-15b-spain/ | url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climber | url=https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dani-andrada-does-fourth-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ | title=Dani Andrada does fourth ascent of Chilam Balam | date=16 November 2015 | accessdate=10 February 2023 | archive-date=10 February 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230210151500/https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dani-andrada-does-fourth-ascent-of-chilam-balam/ | url-status=live }}</ref>

==See also==
{{commons cat|First ascent (climbing)}}
*[[Exploration of the High Alps|List of first ascents in the Alps]]
**[[First ascent of the Matterhorn]]
*[[List of first ascents of mountain summits]]
*[[Eight-thousander#List of first ascents|List of first ascents of eight-thousander mountains]]
*[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing]]

==Notes==
{{notelist}}

==References==
{{Reflist}}

===Further reading===
*{{cite book | title=First Ascent | author=[[Stephen Venables]] | publisher=Cassell Illustrated | date=May 2014 | isbn=978-1844037582}}

==External links==
* [http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/verite-mortimer Peter Mortimer's film ''First Ascent'' on Didier Berthod's failed first free ascent of ''Cobra Crack''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080904231021/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/verite-mortimer |date=2008-09-04 }}, ''[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]]'' (Issue 17, 2006)
{{Climbing}}
{{Authority control}}
[[Category:Climbing terminology]]
[[Category:Mountaineering]]