Editing Gasherbrum I

{{redirect|Hidden Peak|the {{convert|11000|ft|0}} peak in the United States|Snowbird, Utah}}
{{Short description|11th-highest mountain on Earth}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Gasherbrum&nbsp;I
| other_name = Hidden Peak
| photo = HiddenPeak.jpg
| photo_caption = Gasherbrum I in 2001
| elevation_m = 8080
| elevation_ref = <ref name="peakbagger" /><ref name="cknp" /><br />[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 11th]]
| prominence_m = 2155
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peakbagger" />
| listing = {{indented plainlist|
* [[Eight-thousander]]
* [[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
* [[List of mountains in China]]
* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]}}
| location = [[China–Pakistan border]] in [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] and [[Xinjiang]]
| range = [[Karakoram]]
| map = Karakoram relief#Gilgit Baltistan#China Xinjiang Southern
| map_caption = 
| map_size = 300
| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}}
| label_position = right
| coordinates   = {{coord|35|43|28|N|76|41|47|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| first_ascent = {{indented plainlist|
* 5 July 1958 by an [[United States|American]] team including two Pakistan army officers
* First winter ascent 9 March 2012 [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}}<ref>{{cite journal | title = Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2012|  issn= 0065-6925 | first =Artur | last =  Hajzer     | isbn= 978-1933056753 | volume =#54 |issue= 86 | pages=  |   access-date =25 May 2024    |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212934/Gasherbrum-I-8086m-First-Winter-Ascent }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal | title = The Polish Gasherbrum I Winter Expedition | journal =Alpine Journal| date= 2013|  first1 =Agnieszka  | last1 = Bielecka |first2 =Artur | last2 =Hajzer|isbn=     |  issn= 0065-6569 |volume =#117 |issue=361 | pages=15-20  |   access-date =25 May 2024    |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2013_files/AJ%202013%2015-20%20Bielecka%20Hajzer%20Gasherbrum.pdf }}</ref>
}}
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
| mapframe      = no
| mapframe-wikidata = yes
}}

'''Gasherbrum I''' ({{Langx|bft|རྒ་ཥཱ་བྲུམ་། - ༡|lit=Beautiful Mountain - 1|translit=rgasha brum - 1}}; {{langx|ur|{{nq|گاشر برم - ۱}}}}; {{zh|s=加舒尔布鲁木I峰|t=加舒爾布魯木I峰|p=Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù I Fēng}}), [[Great Trigonometrical Survey|surveyed]] as '''K5''' and also known as '''Hidden Peak''', is the [[List of highest mountains#List|11th highest mountain]] in the world at {{convert|8080|m|ft}} above sea level. It is located between [[Shigar District]] in the [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] region of [[Pakistan]] and [[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County|Tashkurgan]] in the [[Xinjiang]] of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the [[Gasherbrum Massif]], located in the [[Karakoram]] region of the [[Himalaya]]. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean  "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak [[Gasherbrum IV]]; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in [[Balti language|Balti]], hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."

Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the [[Karakoram]]) by [[Thomas George Montgomerie|T.G. Montgomerie]] in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200&nbsp;km away during the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]] of India. In 1892, [[William Martin Conway]] provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness.

Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by [[Pete Schoening]] and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man [[United States|American]] expedition led by [[Nicholas Clinch|Nicholas B. Clinch]], Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.<ref name=clinch>{{cite book|last=Clinch|first=Nicholas|title=A Walk in the Sky:  Climbing Hidden Peak|publisher=The Mountaineers|date=1982|isbn=0898860423|place=New York, Vancouver}}</ref>{{rp|210–212}}

==Timeline==
* 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss [[Günther Dyhrenfurth|G.O. Dyhrenfurth]], explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to {{convert|6300|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1936 - A [[France|French]] expedition gets to {{convert|6900|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.
* 1958 - An American team led by [[Nicholas Clinch]] including two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi makes the first ascent, via Roch ridge.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|208}}
* 1975 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Peter Habeler]] reached the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure [[alpine style]] (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days total.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|212}} One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians ({{Interlanguage link|Nejc Zaplotnik|sl}} and [[Andrej Štremfelj|Andrej Stremfelj]]), again on a new route.  Team member [[Drago Bregar]] died.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1980 - Frenchmen [[Liliane_and_Maurice_Barrard|Maurice Barrard]] and Georges Narbaud<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}} are successful with the fifth ascent and pass the South Ridge for the first time.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|214}}<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1982 - [[Michael Dacher]], Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, [[Sylvain Saudan]] from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
* 1983 - [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] with [[Wojciech Kurtyka]], new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
* 1983 - Teams from [[Switzerland]] and [[Spain]] are successful.
* 1984 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Hans Kammerlander]] traverse [[Gasherbrum II]] and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between
* 1985 - Solo ascent by [[Benoît Chamoux]]. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.<ref>Fanshawe &amp; Venables "Himalaya alpine-style" <!-- needs page # --></ref>
* 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
* 2003 - 19 people reach the summit, 4 deaths, including [[Mohammad Oraz]].<ref name=k2news_iran/>
* 2012 - March 9, [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}} (Poland) made the first winter ascent. The ascent was made without the aid of supplementary oxygen.<ref name=pwh/> The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — went missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.<ref name=dawn/>
* 2013 - 7 July, [[Artur Hajzer]] died after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-artur-hajzer-gasherbrum-fall|title=Iconic Polish Climber Artur Hajzer Dies on Gasherbrum I|date=16 July 2013|last=Crothers|first=David|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez and Álvaro Paredes climbed to the top to then disappear while descending after a storm.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/se-da-por-desaparecidos-a-xevi-gomez-alvaro-paredes-y-abel-alonso-en-el-g1|title=Se da por desaparecidos a Xevi Góméz, Álvaro Paredes y Abel Alonso en el G1|date=26 July 2013|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs [[Marek Holeček|Marek 'Mára' Holeček]] and Zdeněk Hák established a new route named Satisfaction! (in memory of [[Zdeněk Hrubý]]) up the Southwest Face.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/gasherbrum-1-sw-face-big-new-route-by-marek-holecek-and-zdenek-hak.html|title=Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák|website=Planet Mountain|date=11 August 2017|access-date=1 May 2018}}</ref>

==See also==
* [[List of deaths on Gasherbrum I]]
* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]
* [[List of highest mountains|Highest Mountains of the World]]

==Bibliography==
* {{cite journal
  | last = Carter | first = H. Adams
  | title = Balti Place Names in the Karakoram
  | journal = American Alpine Journal
  | volume = 49 | year = 1975 | page = 53}}
* {{cite book
  | first = Nicholas | last = Clinch
  | title = A Walk in the Sky: Climbing Hidden Peak
  | publisher = The Mountaineers | location = Seattle, WA, USA
  | date = December 1982 | isbn = 0-89886-042-3}}
* {{cite book
  | first1 = Andy | last1 = Fanshawe |first2 = Stephen | last2 = Venables
  | title = Himalaya alpine-style: the most challenging routes on the highest peaks
  | publisher = Mountaineers Books | location = Seattle, WA, USA
  | date = March 1996 | isbn = 0-34064-931-3}}

==Notes and references==
{{reflist|3|refs=
<ref name=g1_history>
  {{cite web|url=http://www.everestnews.com/g1history.htm|title=Gasherbrum I: Some background and History
   | publisher=k2news.com|access-date=2014-01-04}}</ref>
<ref name=k2news_iran>
  {{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/pak2003/irang2.htm|title=Everest Summiter Mohammad Oraz death/Iranian expedition
   | publisher=k2news.com | date=September 2003| access-date=2014-01-04}}</ref>
<ref name=pwh>
  {{cite web |url=http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl/pages/posts/great-success-of-polish-himalayan-mountaineers-ndash-gasherbrum-i-8068-m-above-sea-level-has-been-conquered-in-winter-for-the-first-time-431.php |title=Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015 |publisher=Polishwinterhimalaism.pl |date=March 9, 2012 |access-date=2012-08-17 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120708022452/http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl/pages/posts/great-success-of-polish-himalayan-mountaineers-ndash-gasherbrum-i-8068-m-above-sea-level-has-been-conquered-in-winter-for-the-first-time-431.php |archive-date=July 8, 2012 }}</ref>
<ref name=dawn>
  {{cite web|url=http://dawn.com/2012/03/15/three-missing-mountaineers-feared-dead-rescue-mission-called-off/
    |title=Three missing mountaineers feared dead, rescue mission called off
    |publisher=dawn.com |date= March 15, 2012|access-date=2012-03-15}}</ref>
<ref name="cknp">{{cite web
   | url=http://www.cknp.org/cms/treks-valleys/trekking-routes/highest-peaks/
   | title=Trekking Routes - Highest peaks
   | publisher=cknp.org
   | access-date=2014-08-24
   | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191009122555/http://www.cknp.org/cms/treks-valleys/trekking-routes/highest-peaks/
   | archive-date=2019-10-09
   | url-status=dead
   }}</ref>
<ref name="peakbagger">
  {{cite peakbagger|pid=10527|name=Gasherbrum I|access-date=2014-08-24}}</ref> name="Sohaib Tipu">
}}

==External links==
* [http://www.summitpost.org/gasherbrum-i/152035 Gasherbrum I on Summitpost]
* [http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20karakorum_baltoro.htm Gasherbrum I on Himalaya-Info.org (German)]
* {{cite peakware|id=1058|name=Gasherbrum I}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20070929184231/http://www.cloudclimbing.ro/ Summit Video of Alex Gavan's First Romanian Ascent of Gasherbrum 1 (July 30th 2007)]


{{Eight-thousander}}
{{Karakoram}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Eight-thousanders of the Karakoram]]
[[Category:Mountains of Xinjiang]]
[[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]]
[[Category:China–Pakistan border]]
[[Category:International mountains of Asia]]