Editing Gasherbrum II

{{Short description|13th-highest mountain on Earth}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Gasherbrum&nbsp;II
| other_name = 
{{nq|گاشر برم - ۲}}<br />K4
| photo = Gasherbrum2.jpg
| photo_caption = Gasherbrum II from [[Base Camp]]
| elevation_m = 8035
| elevation_ref = <ref name="General Info">{{Cite web|url=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html|title = General Info|website=8000ers.com}}</ref><ref name="peakbagger" /><ref name="cknp" /><ref name="peakware" /><br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 13th]]</small>
| prominence_m = 1524
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peakbagger"/>
| map = Karakoram relief#Gilgit Baltistan#China Xinjiang Southern
| map_caption = Location of Gasherbrum&nbsp;II
| map_size = 
| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}}
| label_position = right
| listing = {{ubl|[[Eight-thousander]]|[[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]|[[List of mountains in China]]|[[List of mountains in Pakistan]]}}
| location = [[Baltistan]], [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], Pakistan<br />[[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County|Tashkurgan]], [[Xinjiang]], China, [[China–Pakistan border]]
| range = [[Karakoram]] 
| coordinates = {{coord|35|45|30|N|76|39|12|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/>
| first_ascent = July 7, 1956, by [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart<ref name="peakbagger" />
| easiest_route = Snow/ice climb
| mapframe      = no
| mapframe-wikidata = yes
}}

'''Gasherbrum II''' ({{Langx|bft|རྒ་ཥཱ་བྲུམ་། - ༢|lit=Beautiful Mountain 2|translit=rgasha brum 2}}; {{langx|ur|{{nq|گاشر برم - ۲}}}}; {{zh|s=加舒尔布鲁木II峰|t=加舒爾布魯木II峰|p=Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù II Fēng}}); [[Great Trigonometrical Survey|surveyed]] as '''K4''', is the [[List of highest mountains#List|13th highest mountain]] in the world at {{convert|8035|m|ft}} above sea level.<ref name="General Info"/><ref name="peakbagger"/><ref name="cknp" /><ref name="peakware"/><ref name="summitpostII">{{cite summitpost|id=153264|name=Gasherbrum II|accessdate=9 March 2013}}</ref> It is the third-highest peak of the [[Gasherbrum]] [[massif]], and is located in the [[Karakoram]], on the border between [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], [[Pakistan]] and [[Xinjiang]], [[China]].<ref name="peakware"/> The mountain was first climbed on July 7, 1956, by an [[Austria]]n expedition which included [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart.

==Geography==
Gasherbrum II is located on the border of [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], [[Pakistan]], and [[Xinjiang]], [[China]]. It is part of the [[Karakoram]] mountain range in the [[Himalayas]], and located at the top of the [[Baltoro Glacier]].<ref name="seyfferth">{{cite web|last=Seyfferth|first=Guenter|title=Die Berge des Himalaya|url=http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20karakorum_baltoro.htm|language=de|publisher=himalaya-info.org|access-date=11 March 2013|date=5 March 2013}}</ref> With an elevation of {{convert|8034|m|ft}} it is the third-highest member of the [[Gasherbrum]] group, behind [[Gasherbrum I]] ({{convert|8080|m|ft|disp=or}})<ref>{{cite peakbagger|pid=10527|title=Gasherbrum I, China/Pakistan|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref> and [[Broad Peak]] ({{convert|8051|m|ft|disp=or}}).<ref>{{cite peakbagger|pid=10519|title=Broad Peak, China/Pakistan|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref> [[Gasherbrum III]] is sometimes considered to be a subpeak of Gasherbrum II,{{sfn|Dyhrenfurth|2011|p=199}} because the former has a [[topographic prominence]] of only {{convert|461|m|ft}}.<ref>{{cite peakbagger|pid=10523|name=Gasherbrum III|access-date=24 March 2013}}</ref>

==Naming==
In 1856, [[Thomas George Montgomerie]], a member of the British [[Royal Engineers]] and part of the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]], sighted the mountain and named it "K4", meaning the fourth mountain of [[Karakoram]].<ref name="green">{{cite web|last=Green|first=Stewart|title=Gasherbrum II: 13th Highest Mountain in the World|url=http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/GasherbrumIIFac.htm|publisher=[[About.com]]|access-date=10 March 2013|archive-date=22 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150922162651/http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/GasherbrumIIFac.htm|url-status=dead}}</ref> The name "Gasherbrum" comes from the [[Balti language|Balti]] words ''rgasha'' ("beautiful") and ''brum'' ("mountain"). Contrary to popular belief, it does not mean "shining wall", which is how Sir [[William Martin Conway]] described nearby [[Gasherbrum IV]] on an 1892 exploration.<ref name="green" /><ref name="summitpostI">{{cite summitpost|id=152035|name=Gasherbrum I|accessdate=9 March 2013}}</ref><ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosIV">{{cite web|title=Gasherbrum IV Photo Gallery Home|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20IV/Main.html|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos|access-date=10 March 2013|date=June 2011}}</ref>{{sfn|Dyhrenfurth|2011|p=187}}

==Climbing history==
The mountains of the Gasherbrum group were explored in 1909 by the [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] and [[Vittorio Sella]]. The [[Abruzzi Glacier]], a tributary of the [[Baltoro Glacier]], is named after the Duke.<ref name="filippi">{{cite book|last1=Filippi|first1=Filippo de|last2=di Savoia|first2=Luigi Amedeo|author-link2=Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi|title=Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909: An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qmIxAQAAMAAJ|access-date=27 March 2013|year=1912|publisher=[[E. P. Dutton]]|location=New York}}</ref>{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}

In 1934, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] and his International Himalayan Expedition, including [[André Roch]], explored Gasherbrum I and II, making it {{convert|6250|m|ft}} up Gasherbrum II.{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}{{sfn|Dyhrenfurth|2011|p=198}}

The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos|access-date=27 March 2013|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>

=== 1970s ===
In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}

Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}

=== 1980s ===
Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.

On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn|Messner|1999|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news|last=Hussain|first=Manzoor|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm|access-date=15 March 2013|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]|date=July 2, 2000|archive-date=7 November 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> He wrote of his climb of Gasherbrum II in the book ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{langx|de|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}}).<ref name="chessler">{{cite web|last=Chessler|first=Michael|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>

In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].<ref name=AAJ1985rm/>

In August 1984, a French expedition led by Daniel Croisot, reached the summit and achieved the integral first descent by ski of Gasherbrum II, as witnessed and joined by Dominique Dock who was medical officer for the expedition. Patrice Bournat and Wim Pasquier skied the southwest ridge to Base Camp from {{cvt|7,500|m}}.<ref name=AAJ1985>{{Cite aaj |last=Croisot |first=Daniel |year=1985 |title=Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempt |article_id=12198531102|volume=27|issue=59|page=311|access-date=2024-06-14}}</ref>

In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html |language=sl |first=Viki |last=Grošelj |title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta |trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World |date=17 November 2012 |newspaper=Delo.si |issn=0350-7521}}</ref>

=== 1990s ===
In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name=AAJ1997>{{cite aaj|title=Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, Enchainment|article_id=12199732902|volume=39|issue=71|page=329|links=off|access-date=2025-05-15}}</ref><ref name=aaj1997gb>{{cite book|author=American Alpine Club|author-link=American Alpine Club|title=1997 American Alpine Journal|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329|access-date=10 March 2013|year=1997|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9|issn=0065-6925|page=329}}</ref>

In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed|date=April 2019}}

=== 2000s ===
In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert|50|cm|in|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>

[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope|fixed]] around {{convert|1200|m|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert|150|m|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin2007"/>

=== 2010s ===
On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.

On February 2, 2011, [[Cory Richards (climber)|Cory Richards]], [[Denis Urubko]], and [[Simone Moro]] made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. Despite being buried by a class-four [[avalanche]], they reached the summit at 11:30 am, without supplemental oxygen or [[porter (carrier)|porter]]s. Richards, who was the first American to climb an eight-thousander in winter, filmed the expedition, which he turned into the film ''Cold''.<ref name="macdonald2011"/><ref name="cahall"/>

On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face|access-date=2018-10-14|language=en}}</ref>

=== 2020s ===
In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Benavides |first=Angela |date=2021-07-11 |title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak |url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ |access-date=2024-06-14 |website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II|access-date=2023-07-19|language=es}}</ref>

On July 19, 2023, [[Andrzej Bargiel]] made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without using supplemental oxygen and began his ski descent from 26,362 feet up, over 8,000m.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Close |first=Greta |date=2023-07-26 |title=Skiing Amongst Lions: Andrzej Bargiel's Gasherbrum II Descent |url=https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/skiing-amongst-lions-andrzej-bargiels-gasherbrum-ii-descent/ |access-date=2024-06-14 |website=Backcountry Magazine |language=en-US}}</ref>

==See also==
{{Portal|Mountains|Pakistan|China}}
* [[List of deaths on Gasherbrum II]]
* [[List of highest mountains]]

==Bibliography==
*{{cite book
 | last       = Dyhrenfurth | first = G. O. | author-link = Günter Dyhrenfurth
 | title      = To the Third Pole
 | orig-year  = 1955 | year = 2011 <!-- reprint -->
 | publisher  = London
 | isbn       = 978-1-4465-4447-1 <!-- for 2011 reprint -->
 | url        = https://archive.org/details/tothethirdpole029954mbp
 | access-date = 28 March 2013
 }}
*{{cite book
 | last1=Isserman|first1=Maurice|author-link1=Maurice Isserman
 | last2=Weaver | first2=Stewart Angas
 | title=Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEKGGYEpZIC&pg=PA327
 | publisher=[[Yale University Press]] | isbn=978-0-300-16420-6 | year=2010
 | access-date=27 March 2013}}
*{{cite book
 |last         = Messner
 |first        = Reinhold
 |author-link   = Reinhold Messner
 |title        = All 14 Eight-Thousanders
 |year         = 1999
 |publisher    = [[The Mountaineers Books]]
 |url          = http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/All-Fourteen-Eight-Thousanders-P936.aspx
 |access-date   = 24 January 2014
 |isbn         = 978-0-89886-660-5
 |archive-url  = https://web.archive.org/web/20140204001156/http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/All-Fourteen-Eight-Thousanders-P936.aspx
 |archive-date = 4 February 2014
 |url-status   = dead
}}

==Notes and references==
{{Reflist|3|refs=
<ref name=AAJ1985rm><!-- The PDF shows the true title -->
  {{cite aaj | title = Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak Traverse | article_id = 12198531101 | department = Climbs and Expeditions
   | year = 1985 | volume = 27 | issue = 59 | page = 311 | access-date=2025-05-15}}</ref>
<ref name="cahall">
  {{cite news|last=Cahall|first=Fitz|title=Climber Cory Richards
   | url=http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2012/cory-richards/
   | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111113183201/http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2012/cory-richards
   | url-status=dead
   | archive-date=November 13, 2011
   | newspaper=[[National Geographic Adventure (magazine)|National Geographic Adventure]]
   | access-date=10 March 2013}}</ref>
<ref name="evnews_2006">
  {{cite web | url=http://www.everestnews.com/pak2006/germang208252006.htm
   | last=Winter | first=Stefan | title=Germans summit G2 and then ski down: great pictures!
   | publisher=EverestNews.com | year = 2006
   | access-date=16 March 2013}}</ref>
<ref name="exp_manaslu">
  {{cite web
 |url         = http://www.manaslu.baiern.net/docs/Medienmitteilung_Dynafit_Gore_GII_english.pdf
 |title       = Cool: Speed climb and successful ski down Gasherbrum ll
 |publisher   = Expedition Manaslu
 |access-date  = 16 March 2013
 |url-status     = dead
 |archive-url  = https://web.archive.org/web/20121207185439/http://www.manaslu.baiern.net/docs/Medienmitteilung_Dynafit_Gore_GII_english.pdf
 |archive-date = 7 December 2012
}}</ref>
<ref name="griffin2007">
  {{cite news|last=Griffin|first=Linsay|title=Italians climb Chinese face of Gasherbrum II
   | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-italians-climb-gash-chinese
   | newspaper=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]]
   | date=30 July 2007 | access-date=15 March 2013}}</ref>
<ref name="macdonald2007">
  {{cite news|last=MacDonald|first=Dougald|title=Italians Climb G-II's North Face
   | url=http://www.climbing.com/news/italians-climb-g-iis-north-face/
   | newspaper=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]
   | access-date=24 January 2014}}</ref>
<ref name="macdonald2011">
  {{cite news | last=MacDonald|first=Dougald|title=First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
   | url=http://www.climbing.com/news/first-winter-ascent-of-gasherbrum-ii/
   | newspaper=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]
   | date= 2 February 2011 | access-date=10 March 2013}}</ref>
<ref name="peaklist">
  {{cite web | url=http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html
   | title=Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences
   | publisher=peaklist.org | date=20 March 2011 |access-date=2013-03-09}}</ref>
<ref name="cknp">{{cite web
   | url=http://www.cknp.org/cms/treks-valleys/trekking-routes/highest-peaks/
   | title=Trekking Routes - Highest peaks
   | website=cknp.org
   | access-date=2014-08-24
   | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191009122555/http://www.cknp.org/cms/treks-valleys/trekking-routes/highest-peaks/
   | archive-date=2019-10-09
   | url-status=dead
   }}</ref>
<ref name="peakware">{{cite peakware|id=626 | name=Gasherbrum II |accessdate=2014-08-24}}</ref>
<ref name="peakbagger">
  {{cite peakbagger|pid=10525|name=Gasherbrum II|access-date=9 March 2013}}</ref>
}}

==Further reading==
{{refbegin}}
*{{cite book
| last       = Moravec
| first      = Fritz
| author-link = Fritz Moravec
| title      = Weiße Berge, schwarze Menschen
| year       = 1958
| publisher  = Österreichischer Bundesverlag
| location   = Vienna
| language   = de
}}
*{{cite book
| last      = Soriano
| first     = Rosa Real
| title     = Gasherbrum II: Expedición "Cinc Segles" de la Universitat de Valčncia
| url       = https://books.google.com/books?id=PXzaWAm3Cr8C
| year      = 2001
| publisher = [[University of Valencia]]
| language  = es
| isbn      = 978-84-370-4938-0
}}
{{refend}}

==External links==
{{Commons}}
* [http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20karakorum_baltoro.htm Gasherbrum II on Himalaya-Info.org (German)]
* [http://www.summitpost.org/gasherbrum-ii/153264 Gasherbrum II on Summitpost]
* [http://previous.cmc.org/cmc/rpt/g2.html Gasherbrum II: A Journey to 26,360 Feet in the Karakoram] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081205172535/http://previous.cmc.org/cmc/rpt/g2.html |date=December 5, 2008 }}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20080529094033/http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=15143 Gasherbrum II-express debrief: The first German ski descent of G2; a 17-hour round trip]
* {{IMDb title|id=tt2093084|title=Cold}}
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uDH6jYazeo ''Cold'' on YouTube]

{{Eight-thousander}}

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{{DEFAULTSORT:Gasherbrum Ii}}
[[Category:Eight-thousanders of the Karakoram]]
[[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]]
[[Category:Mountains of Xinjiang]]
[[Category:China–Pakistan border]]
[[Category:International mountains of Asia]]