Editing Hackney Marshes

{{Short description|Open space in London}}
{{distinguish|Hackney Marshes, Devon}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2015}}
{{Use British English|date=June 2015}}
{{Infobox UK place
| official_name            = Hackney Marshes
| map_type                 = Greater London
| region                   = London
| country                  = England
| london_borough           = Hackney
| constituency_westminster = [[Hackney South and Shoreditch (UK Parliament constituency)|Hackney South and Shoreditch]]
| post_town                = LONDON
| postcode_area            = E
| postcode_district        = E9, E10
| dial_code                = 020
| os_grid_reference        = TQ375845
| coordinates              = {{coord|51.557|-0.030|display=inline,title}}
| charingX_distance_mi     = 6
| charingX_direction       = SW
| static_image_name        = Hackney Marshes.jpg
| static_image_caption     = The [[River Lea]] passing through Hackney Marshes
}}
'''Hackney Marshes''' is an area of open space in London's [[Lower Lea Valley]], lying on the western bank of the [[River Lea]]. It takes its name from its position on the eastern boundary of [[Hackney, London|Hackney]], the principal part of the [[London Borough of Hackney]], and from its origin as an area of true [[marsh]].

The marshes were extensively drained from [[Medieval]] times onwards, and rubble was dumped here from buildings damaged by air raids during [[World War II]], raising the level of the ground.

The principal area of the marsh lies below [[Lea Bridge Road]] between the [[Old River Lea]], and the Hackney Cut &ndash; an artificial channel of the [[Lee Navigation]], dug about 1770, to avoid a loop in the natural watercourse. The southern extent is marked by the [[A12 road (Great Britain)|A12]]; although the industrial land around [[Hackney Wick Stadium]] was originally an extension of the marsh, it now forms a part of the [[Olympic Park, London|Olympic Park]] for the [[2012 Summer Olympics]].

Hackney Marsh is one of the largest areas of common land in Greater London, with {{convert|136.01|ha|acre}} of protected commons.<ref>{{ cite web | url=http://www.defra.gov.uk/rural/protected/commons/ | title=Common Land and the Commons Act 2006 | publisher=[[Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs|Defra]] | date=13 November 2012 | access-date=3 February 2013 }}</ref>

==History==
===The marsh===
The River itself was always an important waterway, being navigable to [[Hertfordshire]]; the Marsh was formed by the periodic flooding of the river, and so formed useful pasture, but could not be occupied permanently. Before the 10th century, the estuary of the river came as far as [[Hackney Wick]], crossed at [[Old Ford]]. Marsh Road, the continuation of [[Homerton]] High Street, led to the marshes, and thence to [[Temple Mills]]. The [[Roman era|Romans]] appear to have built a significant stone causeway across the marshes here; a periodical, the ''Ambulator'' of 1774, noted <blockquote>there have been discovered within the last few years the remains of a great causeway of stone, which, by the Roman coins found there, would appear to have been one of the famous highways made by the Romans<ref name=old&new>[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.asp?compid=45254 'The northern suburbs: Haggerston and Hackney', Old and New London: Volume 5 (1878), pp. 505-24] accessed: 15 December 2006</ref></blockquote> The river forms a natural boundary, so in 527&nbsp;AD it formed the boundary between the [[Anglo-Saxons|Saxon]] kingdoms of [[Essex]] and [[Middlesex]]. In the 9th century, it formed a part of the [[Danelaw]] boundary and reputedly, [[King Alfred]] stranded an invading [[Viking]] fleet here in 895&nbsp;AD. This was achieved by draining the river where it met the [[River Thames]], but the increased drainage affected river navigability, until it was restored in the 17th century.

By [[medieval]] times, both sides had become [[Counties of the United Kingdom|counties]] in [[England]], and attempts were made to control the flow of water through the marshes. Mills were established including the [[Knights Templar in England|Knights Templar]] mill at [[Temple Mills]]. Much of the marsh was 'owned' by the Templars and used for pasture. When the Templars were abolished, the land passed to the [[Knights Hospitaller]], and thence to the [[The Crown|Crown]] during the [[English Reformation|Reformation]], when monastic lands were seized. At this time, much of the land was associated with the [[Hackney, London|Hackney]] village of Lower [[Homerton]] and with the large manor house at [[Hackney Wick]].

Around 1770, the river was straightened by the construction of the Hackney Cut, now forming the western extent of the marsh. The natural watercourse passes to the east over the [[Middlesex Filter Beds Weir]], just below [[Lea Bridge Road]]. A nature reserve occupies the former Middlesex Filter beds on the island between the two watercourses.

By 1795, the former Templar mills were being used for preparing lead (submerged in urine, and heated by decaying cow dung, the lead was converted to lead oxide, and then finely ground to form a pigment for white, yellow and red [[lead paint]]). A new watermill was established on the Crown land of the marshes by [[Prince Rupert]] for an improved method of boring guns, however the secret died with him in 1682 and the enterprise collapsed.<ref>Granger's Biographical History, vol. ii. p. 407. 4to. edit. Dugdale's Baronage, vol. i. p. 559</ref>

At the end of the 19th century [[Hackney, London|Hackney]] suffered from increased demand for building land, both for housing and to extend the factories in [[Homerton]]. The marshes had always suffered periodic flooding from the [[River Lea|Lea]] but with the introduction of [[London sewerage system|mains sewerage]] a flood relief sewer was constructed beneath the marshes. Most common and Lammas lands were then preserved by an [[Act of Parliament]] and passed to the control of the [[Metropolitan Board of Works]], but the marsh remained excluded from the MBW scheme because many of the lammas rights were still exercised, predominantly grazing. This was a period of increasing arguments between landowners and groups, such as the Eton Manor Mission,<ref>About 1901, The Eton Manor Mission was formed, from premises at [[Hackney Wick]]. The purpose was to use pupils from [[Eton College]] to bring ''enlightenment'' to the poverty stricken [[East End of London|East End]] and for those boys to come to some understanding of the situation of the poor. One strand of this peculiar meeting of opposites was through sport on the Marshes, including running, boxing and the formation of [[Eton Manor F.C.]]</ref> who were trying to use the marsh for recreation. The {{convert|337|acre|km2}} of marshes were finally preserved by the [[London County Council]] in 1890, by purchasing the rights and landowners' interests for £75,000. They opened to the public in 1893 by the Chairman of the LCC, [[Sir John Hutton]] and were formally dedicated in 1894.<ref>[[JJ Sexby]], Municipal Pks. 361-3; L.C.C. Ceremonial Pamphlets, 21 July 1894</ref> The LCC undertook further flood prevention, straightening some of the bends in the River by introducing four 'cuts', the old channels being retained to form islands.<ref>[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.asp?compid=22710 Hackney: Public services', A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 10: Hackney (1995), pp. 108-15.] Date accessed: 13 October 2006.</ref>

There were few houses on the marshes, but a notable exception was the White House Inn, by a bridge on the old road to [[Leyton]]. Originally built as part of a Lea fishery scheme, the pub is now long gone but a bridge remains, rebuilt to supply [[Anti-aircraft warfare|anti-aircraft batteries]] during [[World War II]].
<blockquote>In the Marshes towards Hackney Wick were low public houses, the haunt of highwaymen and their Dulcineas. Dick Turpin<ref>The infamous highwayman, [[Dick Turpin]] was said to frequent the White House Inn. A ward is named after him at [[Homerton University Hospital]].</ref> was a constant guest at the "White House," or "Tyler's Ferry," near Joe Sowter's cock-pit at Temple Mills; and few police-officers were bold enough to approach the spot.<ref name=old&new/></blockquote>
[[File:London, Hackney Marshes - 1973 - geograph.org.uk - 2816153.jpg|thumb|Camping on Hackney Marshes, 1970s]]
Small areas of the marsh have been taken for housing and sports fields and others added. {{convert|35.5|acre|m2}} were taken in 1915 to build the 'National Projectile Factory'; after [[World War I]], in 1922 this site was used to create the [[Mabley Green]] recreation ground. A further {{convert|22.5|acre|m2}} were taken in 1937 for the building of the [[Kingsmead Estate]].<ref>[https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/middx/vol10/pp51-59 Hackney: Hackney: Homerton and Hackney Wick', A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 10: Hackney (1995), pp. 51-59.] Date accessed: 13 October 2006. The estate was the subject of a Sussex University BA dissertation in 1971 by [[David Hallam]]. The typescript and working papers are held at Hackney archives, files D/F/Hal/1-3</ref> [[Hackney Power Station]] was situated to the north west of the marshes, across the [[Lee Navigation]], and operated between 1901 and 1976.

Between the 1970s and 1990s, a camping site was situated at the north end of the Marshes, adjacent to Cow Bridge, at one point branded as Tent City.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Campers from the International camping site hackney marshes Cow Bridge Millfields Road #Clapton #Hackney - 1973 -Closed {{!}} Hackney, London town, Marsh |url=https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/608971180836772292/ |access-date=2022-03-20 |website=Pinterest |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Citation |last=G |first=Sludge |title=The former Tent City, Marsh Hill E9 Apr 2009 |date=2009-04-20 |url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/sludgeulper/3459844117/ |access-date=2022-03-20}}</ref>

The [[Matchbox (toy company)|Lesney]] die cast model factory was built on the [[Homerton]] side of the [[Lee Navigation]] in the 1940s, having success for many years with their ''[[Matchbox (brand)|Matchbox]]'' brand. The factory was a major local employer and closed in 1990.

===Sport===
[[File:Hackney Marshes, London Borough of Hackney, E5 E9 (414929477).jpg|left|thumb|Hackney Marshes football pitches]]
In 1881, men from [[Homerton College]], then still in the London area, founded the Glyn Cricket Club. Members of the cricket club then decided to form a football section to keep fit during the winter months, this football section was to become the famous Clapton Orient Football Club which for thirty years played its home games at Millfields Road Stadium (1900–1930). In 1946 the Club was renamed [[Leyton Orient F.C.|Leyton Orient]] and their home ground is now the [[Brisbane Road|Matchroom Stadium in Brisbane Road]], Leyton, E10 5NF.

Today the marshes provide many pleasant walks, in reach of the inner city, but the most famous use of Hackney Marshes is for [[Sunday league football in England|Sunday league football]],<ref>
[http://www.hackneyandleytonfootballleague.co.uk Hackney & Leyton Sunday League Football website] accessed : 12 Nov 2006</ref> with 88 full-size [[football (soccer)|football]] pitches marked out. On a typical Sunday, over 100 matches are played by amateur teams in several local leagues, such as the [[Hackney and Leyton Sunday Football League|Hackney and Leyton Sunday League]] and the [[Camden Sunday Football League|Camden Sunday League]].
[[File:Hackney & Leyton Sunday league match 2021.jpg|thumb|300px|Football league match in 2021.]]
In 2006 there was a dispute between the [[London Borough of Hackney]] and [[Nike, Inc.]] over the company's use of the borough logo on their sportswear. The dispute was settled with payment of £300,000 going to support local youth sports groups.<ref>[http://society.guardian.co.uk/localgovt/story/0,,1870454,00.html Nike scores own goal on Hackney Marshes - Clare Dyer] in Society Guardian 12 Sept 2006 (accessed : 23 Oct 2006)</ref>

The annual [[Hackney Half]] marathon, taking place in May, starts and finishes at the marshes.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-10-25 |title=Hackney Half |url=https://run.limelightsports.club/event/hackney-moves-2022/hackney-half |access-date=2022-05-22 |website=Limelight Sports Club |language=en}}</ref>

===London Olympics 2012===
[[File:Olympic Stadium October 2009 SM.jpg|thumb|right|200px|The [[2012 Summer Olympics]] stadium under construction.]]
Part of the [[Olympic Park, London|London Olympic park]] for the [[2012 Summer Olympics|Summer Olympics of 2012]] was built on Hackney Marshes. This caused some controversy with local residents' groups,<ref>[http://sport.guardian.co.uk/london2012/story/0,14213,1414889,00.html  Protest stirs in troubled east - Paul Kelso in The Guardian 15 February 2005] date accessed: 30 October 2006</ref><ref>[http://www.clubplan.org/CMS/page.asp?org=2673&name=Olympics1 Hackney Development Forum] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060307182728/http://www.clubplan.org/CMS/page.asp?org=2673&name=Olympics1 |date=7 March 2006 }} date accessed: 30 October 2006</ref> who expressed concerns that East Marsh was to be tarmacked and used as a disabled [[Coach (vehicle)|coach]] park for the games. This was a temporary measure.

Arena Fields, however, was lost to the Olympic Park and its site will become part of the legacy [[Olympic Park, London|Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park]] permanently. This area is to be replaced by parkland of comparable size and value on the Hackney side at the end of the 2012 Summer Olympics. It will not be possible to reinstate the loss of mature and varied trees or to compensate for the disruption caused to wildlife by construction.

The natural course of the River Lea forms the borough boundary with [[London Borough of Waltham Forest|Waltham Forest]] and [[London Borough of Newham|Newham]] (except for East Marsh, which lies between the river and [[Temple Mills]]). The Olympic plans included upgrading this watercourse and improving public access. The [[Olympic Park]] lies south of the [[A12 road (Great Britain)|A12]], on industrial land around the former [[Hackney Wick Stadium|Hackney Stadium]].

==Music, literature and film==
[[File:Gus Elen If It Wasnt for the Ouses In Between.jpg|thumb|right|upright|The sheet music of ''If it wasn't for the 'ouses in between'']]
*[[Alexander Baron]] wrote a celebrated novel ''The Lowlife'', published in 1963. The book takes place primarily in the Hackney area and loosely depicts Baron's childhood.
*The celebrated [[cockney]] [[music hall]] performer [[Gus Elen]] sang a song entitled ''If It Wasn't for the 'Ouses In Between'' which included the following chorus:
<blockquote>''Oh it really is a wery pretty garden<br />And [[Chingford]] to the eastward could be seen;<br />'Wiv a ladder and some glasses,<br />You could see to 'Ackney Marshes,<br />If it wasn't for the 'ouses in between.''</blockquote>
*An experimental 15-minute film ''Hackney Marshes November 4th 1977'' by [[John Smith (English filmmaker)|John Smith]] was shot on the marshes.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Watch Hackney Marshes - November 4th 1977 |url=https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-hackney-marshes-november-4th-1977-1977-online |access-date=2022-05-21 |website=BFI Player |language=en}}</ref> It was adapted for television the following year.<ref>[http://www.canyoncinema.com/S/SmithJohn.html ''John Smith filmography''] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081219144156/http://www.canyoncinema.com/S/SmithJohn.html |date=19 December 2008 }} accessed 18 July 2008</ref>
*In 1997, Nike presented a selection of [[FA Premier League|Premiership]] players turning out for the Sunday League teams to the soundtrack of [[Blur (band)|Blur]]'s "[[Parklife (song)|Parklife]]".
*The 2005 film ''[[Bullet Boy]]'' (Saul Dibb) used the marshes and local streets as a location.
*Radio 1's [[Hackney Weekend]] was held here on the marshes on 23 and 24 June 2012. with acts such as Jay-Z, Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, will.i.am, Florence + The Machine, Leona Lewis and Plan B all performing across the two days.

==Education==
{{For| details of education in Hackney Marshes|List of schools in the London Borough of Hackney}}

==Transport and locale==

===Railway stations===
The area is not well served by public rail transport, although has many bus services. Access to the Olympic Park is served by Stratford.

[[Lea Bridge railway station|Lea Bridge station]] is the closest rail station to the Marshes. It is one stop away from Stratford.

The nearest [[London Overground]] station are [[Hackney Wick railway station|Hackney Wick]] and [[Homerton railway station|Homerton]], which are about a twenty-minute walk away. At about thirty minutes walking time, the nearest [[List of London Underground stations|London Underground stations]] are [[Leyton tube station|Leyton]] and [[Stratford tube station|Stratford]]. [[Stratford International]] is also a [[Eurostar]] and [[National Rail]] station. (International trains are not currently stopping here).

===Walking and cycling===
Nearby, [[Hackney Wick]] is on the [[Capital Ring]] walking route, much of which is accessible to cyclists. The [[River Lea]] and local canals have a tow path which is accessible for both walking and cycling. The [[River Lea]] provides a continuous route to [[Hertfordshire]] and [[Bedfordshire]] via the [[Lea Valley Walk|Lea Valley Path]] for the particularly determined.

[[Leyton Marsh]] and the [[Walthamstow Marshes]] [[Site of Special Scientific Interest|SSSI]] are located to the north of Hackney Marshes, and are part of the [[Lee Valley Regional Park]].

{{Geographic Location
|title     = '''Neighbouring areas of London.'''
|Northwest = [[Lower Clapton]]
|North     = [[Lea Bridge]]
|Northeast = [[Leyton]]
|West      = [[Homerton]]
|Centre    = Hackney Marshes
|East      = [[Leytonstone]]
|Southwest = [[Victoria Park, Tower Hamlets|Victoria Park]]
|South     = [[Hackney Wick]]
|Southeast = [[Stratford, London|Stratford]]<br /><small>[[Olympic Park, London|Olympic Park]]</small>
}}

==See also==
*[[Lower Lea Valley]]
*[[Walthamstow Marshes]]
*[[Walthamstow Wetlands]]
*[http://www.hackneyandleytonfootballleague.co.uk/ Hackney & Leyton Sunday Football League]

==Notes and references==
{{Reflist|2}}

{{Parks and open spaces in London}}
{{LB Hackney}}

[[Category:Areas of London]]
[[Category:Common land in London]]
[[Category:Homerton]]
[[Category:Hackney, London]]
[[Category:Lee Valley Park]]
[[Category:Marshland in London]]
[[Category:Parks and open spaces in the London Borough of Hackney]]
[[Category:Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park]]