Editing Holt Renfrew

{{Short description|Canadian department store}}
{{about|the Canadian department store chain|the co-branded Holt Renfrew&ndash;Ogilvy location in Montreal|Holt Renfrew Ogilvy}}
{{Infobox company
| name = Holt, Renfrew & Co., Limited<!---PROPER LEGAL NAME, SEE TALK PAGE--->
| logo = Holt Renfrew logo.svg
| logo_size = 250px
| image = Holt Renfrew Flagship store on Mink Mile in Yorkville 2022.jpg
| image_size = 250px
| image_caption = Flagship store on [[Mink Mile]] in [[Yorkville, Toronto|Yorkville]], [[Toronto]] (2022)
| trade_name = Holt Renfrew
| former_name = {{plain list|
* William Ashton & Co.
* William S. Henderson & Co.
* John Henderson & Co.
* Henderson, Renfrew & Co.
* Renfrew & Marcou
* G.R. Renfrew & Co.
}}
| type = [[Privately held company|Private]]
| industry = [[Retail]]
| founded = {{start date and age|1837}} in [[Quebec City]], [[Lower Canada]]
| founder = William S. Henderson
| hq_location = 60 [[Bloor Street|Bloor Street West]]
| hq_location_city = [[Toronto]], [[Ontario]]
| hq_location_country = Canada
| num_locations = 6
| num_locations_year = 2024
| area_served = Canada
| key_people = 
| products = {{flat list|
* Clothing
* accessories
* footwear
* fragrances
* jewellery
* beauty products
}}
| owner = [[Weston family]] (1986&ndash;present)
| parent = [[Wittington Investments]] (1986&ndash;present)
| divisions = 
| subsid = 
| website = {{URL|holtrenfrew.com}}
| footnotes = 
}}

'''Holt, Renfrew & Co., Limited'''<!---PROPER LEGAL NAME, SEE TALK PAGE---> ([[Trade name|doing business as]] '''Holt Renfrew''' and [[Colloquialism|colloquially]] '''Holt's''')<ref>{{cite journal| last=Campbell| first=Jennifer| title=Toronto: Holt's opening party shows off top Canadian talent| date=October 20, 2009| url=http://www.fashionmagazine.com/blogs/fashion/at-the-shows/2009/10/20/toronto-holts-opening-party-shows-off-top-canadian-talent/| journal=[[Fashion (magazine)|Fashion]]| access-date=November 23, 2009}}</ref> is a [[Economy of Canada|Canadian]] luxury [[department store]] chain founded in 1837 by William S. Henderson. The original William Ashton & Co. store in [[Quebec City]], [[Lower Canada]] (now [[Quebec]]) operated as a fur shop. The company serviced the greater North American and European markets with its [[mail order]] catalog beginning in the late 1800s, and was appointed Furriers in Ordinary to several members of the [[British royal family]] from 1886 to 1921.

The present-day Holt Renfrew name comes from the additions of business partner George Richard Renfrew in 1862, and company president John Henderson Holt in 1900. The company became a full-line retailer with the opening of the multi-level [[Sherbrooke Street]] store in [[Montreal]] in 1937. It was acquired by [[Wittington Investments]] (owned by the [[Weston family]]) in 1986, and was affiliated with the European department stores [[Selfridges]], [[Brown Thomas]], and [[de Bijenkorf]] until the Weston family divested of the [[Selfridges Group]] in 2022. {{As of|2024}}, Holt Renfrew operates six department stores in four Canadian provinces, including the flagship store at the [[Holt Renfrew Centre]] on [[Bloor Street|Bloor Street West]] in [[Toronto]] and the former Ogilvy store (now [[Holt Renfrew Ogilvy]]) on [[Saint Catherine Street]] in Montreal.

Holt Renfrew is comparable to American department stores [[Nordstrom]], [[Neiman Marcus]] and [[Saks Fifth Avenue]]. It competes with Saks Fifth Avenue and Canadian departments stores including [[Hudson's Bay (department store)|Hudson's Bay]] and [[La Maison Simons|Simons]].<ref>{{cite journal| last=Baker| first=Ashley| title=Canadian footwear friends, please report for duty| date=February 15, 2007| journal=[[Glamour (magazine)|Glamour]]| url=http://www.glamour.com/fashionbeauty/blogs/fashion/2007/02/canadian_footwe.html| access-date=March 16, 2007| url-status=dead| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080205141259/http://www.glamour.com/fashionbeauty/blogs/fashion/2007/02/canadian_footwe.html| archive-date=February 5, 2008}}</ref><ref>Eastwood, Alison. ''If the Shoe Fits''. ''[[Marketing (magazine)|Marketing]]''.  June 25, 2007, page 18.</ref>

== 19th century history ==
In 1837, William S. Henderson, an Irish-born merchant, bought his partners' interest in their Quebec City fur shop and went into business for himself, thereby marking the traditional founding date of Holt Renfrew. Three years earlier, Henderson had arrived by ship from [[Derry|Londonderry]] with a load of hats and caps.  The merchandise sold well and other overseas crossings followed.  Eventually, Henderson set up shop at Quebec under the name William Ashton & Co.<ref name=encompassesoldandnew>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew encompasses old and new with Place Ville Marie branch| newspaper=[[Montreal Gazette]]| date=October 26, 1962}}</ref>   An early company advertisement noted a line of wholesale and retail garments and accessories that included Ladies' fur muffs, boas and tippets, in addition to Buffalo Robes and Bear skins, procured as well as "manufactured on this premises."<ref name=advertisement1837>{{cite news| title=Advertisement| newspaper=[[Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph|Quebec Gazette]]| date=November 11, 1837}}</ref>  By 1847, the store, then renamed William S. Henderson & Co., had established itself at 12 Buade Street.  Eventually the store moved to larger premises at 35 Buade where it remained for many years. Over the decades that followed, the store's ownership changed hands, as various partners came and went, and the firm's name underwent revision.  W.S. Henderson eventually sold the store to his brother John, a [[Montreal]] businessman, and it became John Henderson & Co.  In 1862, with the addition of business partner George Richard Renfrew, the store's name changed to Henderson, Renfrew and Company.  By the time of [[Canadian Confederation|Confederation]], in 1867, Henderson had retired and Renfrew and V.H. Marcou, whom Henderson had sent to Quebec to manage the business, had become the new principals, with the firm renamed Renfrew & Marcou.<ref name=RenfrewDCB>{{cite encyclopedia| last=Benoit| first=Jean| title=Renfrew, George Richard| url=http://www.biographi.ca/009004-119.01-e.php?BioId=40514| encyclopedia=[[Dictionary of Canadian Biography]]| year=1990| publisher=[[University of Toronto]]/[[Université Laval]]| access-date=31 July 2017}}</ref>
[[File:G.R. Renfrew & Co fur catalogue 1890.jpg|thumb|upright|Cover for a Holt Renfrew catalogue in 1890, advertising that the company is the "furriers to the Queen"]]
By the middle of the 19th century, the company had begun promoting its fur garments beyond Quebec to a larger North American and European market.<ref name=marking175>{{cite news| title=Holt's – the mystique is growing| first=Alan D.| last=Gray| newspaper=[[Women's Wear Daily]]| date=September 6, 1994}}</ref>  An 1890 mail order fur catalogue listed nine different medals and diplomas won at London, Paris, and [[Philadelphia]] exhibitions from 1851 to 1888.<ref name=furcatalogue1890>{{cite book| title=G.R. Renfrew & Co., Quebec and Toronto (fur catalogue)| year=1890| location=Quebec City}}</ref>   During its history, the store served many notable patrons.  Admirers of [[John A. Macdonald]], Canada's first Prime Minister, had decided the coat he had worn during an 1883 visit to Quebec City was not befitting his status as first minister and bought him a new fur coat from the company.<ref name=newspaperhistory>{{cite news| title=Newspaper history| newspaper=Chronicle-Telegraph, Quebec City| date=December 30, 1933}}</ref>  Then, in 1886, G.R. Renfrew & Co. received its most prestigious honour, being named "Furriers in Ordinary" by Her Majesty Queen Victoria.   The Queen had purchased a number of fur items from the company's display at the Indian & Colonial Exhibition held that year at London, England.  The ''Quebec Daily Telegraph'' wrote at length about the appointment:
<blockquote>
Visitors to the late provincial exhibition in this city will remember that lithographed copies in duplicate were shown of the royal letters patent from the Mistress of the Robes at [[Windsor Castle]], notifying Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co. of their appointment as furriers to the Queen.  At the same exhibition this firm exposed a duplicate set in sable to that purchased from them by Her Majesty the Queen in person, at the Indian & Colonial Exhibition in London.  In common with many of our readers, we are not of opinion that a firm, any more than a private individual is the better individually, for rubbing against royalty, but we are speaking of business affairs in a business sense, and there is no doubt that Queen Victoria would not have patronized Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co. when she wanted a new muff, nor appointed them as her special furriers, unless she was satisfied that their articles were the very best of the kind manufactured, and that she could not do as well elsewhere.  It is upon the knowledge of these facts that we congratulate Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co., and feel a legitimate pride in the success of our fellow citizens abroad.  At home their success is exemplified by the large number of awards made [by] their exhibits, and also by the splendid stock which they always keep on hand in the mammoth establishment.<ref name=quebectelegraph1887>{{cite news| title=G.R. Renfrew| newspaper=[[Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph|Quebec Daily Telegraph]]| date=October 3, 1887}}</ref>
</blockquote>
It was, in fact, the first of a series of royal warrants issued by members of the [[British Royal Family]]. In 1901,  Holt, Renfrew & Co. was appointed furriers to Her Majesty [[Queen Alexandra]] and then to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, later [[King Edward VII]], in 1903.<ref name=star1910>{{cite news| title=Every one of these dates marks an epoch in the history of this business| newspaper=[[Toronto Star|Toronto Daily Star]]| date=September 23, 1910| url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/1436296030| id={{ProQuest|1436296030}}|url-access=subscription }}</ref>  In 1910, the company was appointed by royal warrant furriers to His Majesty [[King George V]].<ref name=HRfurcatalogue1911>{{cite news| title=Fur fashions for 1911–1912| publisher=Holt, Renfrew & Co. Limited| date=1911}}</ref>   The last of the royal warrants was issued by the Prince of Wales, later [[King Edward VIII]], in 1921.<ref name=encompassesoldandnew/>

In 1889, the company established its first store outside of Quebec City with a new retail outlet at 71 and 73 King Street East, [[Toronto]].<ref name=advertisement1889>{{cite news| title=G.R. Renfrew & Co. advertisement| newspaper=[[The Globe (Toronto newspaper)|The Globe, Toronto]]| date=September 30, 1889}}</ref>  William Henderson had by this time retired and his nephew, Allen E. Renfrew, had become partner.

== 20th century history ==
[[File:Holt Renfrew & Co Limited Franco-British Exhibition 1908.jpg|thumb|left|Holt Renfrew's Canadian fur display at the [[Franco-British Exhibition]] in 1908]]
In 1900, John Henderson Holt, who began his career as a company clerk, was appointed president and the firm became known as Holt, Renfrew & Co.<ref name=RenfrewDCB/>  By 1908, the company's structure had changed again and it had become Holt, Renfrew & Co., Limited.  Meanwhile, the company continued to display its furs at various international expositions, such as the Franco-British Exhibition, held in London, England, that same year. Described as a "great merger of fur firms" by the press, in 1910 Holt Renfrew acquired Dunlop, Cook Co. Limited, and established new premises at Montreal, on fashionable St. Catherine St. W., in addition to taking over the firm of W. J. Hammond, "the largest fur house in the West," at Winnipeg, Manitoba.<ref name=greatmerger>{{cite news| title=Great Merger of Fur Firms| newspaper=[[Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph|Chronicle, Quebec]]| date=September 22, 1910}}</ref>  With the death of John H. Holt in 1915, A.E. Renfrew was appointed company president, a position he held until his retirement in 1919.<ref name=GlobeSeptember241941>{{cite news| title=A.E. Renfrew passes, age 76| newspaper=[[The Globe and Mail]]| date=September 24, 1941}}</ref>

In 1937, in conjunction with the company's 100th anniversary, Holt Renfrew unveiled a new six-storey Montreal headquarters and flagship store.  Designed by the Canadian architectural firm of [[Ross and Macdonald]],<ref name=constructiontrade>{{cite journal| journal=Construction Trade Review and Forecast, 1937–1938| year=1937–1938}}</ref> the structure was built in what became known as the [[Streamline Moderne]] style of [[Art Deco]].<ref name=tracing>{{cite news| title=Tracing evolution of modernism in Montreal| newspaper=Montreal Gazette| date=September 7, 1986}}</ref>  [[Women’s Wear Daily]] wrote of the limestone structure, located at the corner of Sherbrooke and Mountain streets, as "one of the most modernly and attractively appointed retail establishments on this continent" and further commented that "throughout the store the aim has been to secure an effect of luxury and good taste."<ref name=newhome>{{cite news| title=New Holt Renfrew home in Montreal| newspaper=Women’s Wear Daily| date=September 7, 1937}}</ref> Press reports also noted the new store's commitment to [[haute couture]] and how "New York fashions, as well as London and Paris models, are represented in the dress, coat, sportswear, millinery and other fashion departments."<ref name=newmontrealstore>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew's new Montreal store is opened| newspaper=[[New York Herald Tribune]]| date=September 14, 1937}}</ref> Holt Renfrew also retailed the work of Canadian high-fashion designers such as [[Marie-Paule Nolin]], whose salon and workroom were hosted by the store during the 1940s.<ref name=tce>{{cite encyclopedia |last=Cooper| first=Cynthia| title=Fashion Design in Canada| date=March 4, 2015| url=http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/articles/fashion-design-in-canada| archive-url=https://archive.today/20130203200553/http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/articles/fashion-design-in-canada| url-status=dead| archive-date=February 3, 2013| encyclopedia=[[The Canadian Encyclopedia]]| publisher=Historica-Dominion| access-date=31 July 2017}}</ref>
[[File:Holt Renfrew in Montreal in 1937.jpg|thumb|The company's [[Art Deco]]-styled flagship store in Montreal in 1937.]]
With the outbreak of armed conflict in Europe and Canada's early entry into [[World War II]], Holt Renfrew's fashion reflected the new homefront realities.  With the rationing of textiles and other materials, the company's designs featured shorter sleeves and raised hemlines.  Retail expansion during this time was muted, with the exception of Holt Renfrew's acquisition of Simon Furs of Ottawa in 1945.

=== After World War II ===
The conclusion of war saw Holt Renfrew re-emerge as Canada's leading furrier and fashion retailer, closely associated with the haute couture of the post-war era.  In 1947, on the eve of the impending marriage of Princess Elizabeth, heir to the British throne, and Prince Philip, the company was commissioned by the Canadian government to design the country's official wedding gift for the princess.   President Alvin J. Walker flew to London, England, with a selection of 85 samples to personally show and take measurements for the Labrador wild mink coat.<ref name=fly85minkskins>{{cite news| title=Fly 85 mink skins to U.K. Elizabeth to take choice| newspaper=Toronto Daily Star| date=October 10, 1947}}</ref>

Early in the post-war period, Holt Renfrew re-established close working relationships with the leading fashion houses of Europe and North America.  By 1947, Alvin Walker signed an agreement with the [[Christian Dior SE|House of Christian Dior]] to sell its Paris haute couture in Canada.  With Dior's "New Look," and its renewed emphasis on luxury and femininity in women's fashion making headlines, it was the beginning of an extended relationship that "linked the name of Holt Renfrew to the most famous fashion designer in the world at the time."<ref name=coutureandcommerce>{{cite book| last=Palmer| first=Alexandra| title=Couture and commerce – the transatlantic fashion trade in the 1950s| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eeGDr5ZzCsEC&q=holt+renfrew| date=November 1, 2001| publisher=UBC Press| page=120| isbn=978-0774808262}}</ref>   The arrangement soon evolved into an exclusive one as Walker secured an agreement to solely represent Dior in the Canadian marketplace.  Newspaper ads for Dior fashion explicitly noted, "only at Holt Renfrew in all of Canada."<ref name=regalsimplicity>{{cite news| title=Regal Simplicity by Christian Dior (advertisement)| newspaper=The Globe and Mail| date=October 27, 1955}}</ref>  Along with Dior, the couture models of other well-known Paris designers were also featured:
<blockquote>
Holt Renfrew's own fashionists attended the recent Winter Openings of the leading couturiers in Paris.  The models selected by them are here...they have arrived by air express.  This collection...the largest ever imported by H.R...presents a composite and perfect picture of the New Fashion created by Paris...the dramatic "Wing Line" by CHRISTIAN DIOR...the lovely subtle straightline with sudden flare sponsored by [[Pierre Balmain|PIERRE BALMAIN]]...the flattering backward drapery by [[Jacques Fath|JACQUES FATH]]...the sylph-line skirt and Bryonic corsage by [[Edward Molyneux|MOLYNEUX]]...the higher waistline [[Robert Piguet|ROBERT PIGUET]]...the tubular skirt with stiffened pockets by [[Jacques Griffe|JACQUES GRIFFE]]...and the most perfect black dresses by [[Balenciaga|BALENCIAGA]].  Included are all types of costumes from the typically Parisian tailleur...for the morning promenade in the Bois...to gay short evening dresses and formal gowns with daring decolletes and short irregular trains.<ref name=advertisement1948>{{cite news| title=From Paris direct to H.R.'s the important models by the Haute Couture| newspaper=The Globe and Mail| date=September 16, 1948}}</ref>
</blockquote>
Holt Renfrew also secured exclusive Canadian rights to the haute couture of Italian designers Simonetta Visconti and [[Fabiani]].<ref name=coutureandcommerce/>  Its representatives not only made frequent trips to the fashion houses of Paris, London, New York and Milan but also attended all major fur and fashion shows.  One magazine writer commented on how the "eternal watchfulness of Holt Renfrew buyers on the world's fashion fronts and their close liaison with outstanding designers and creators of fashions plays an important part in the rapidly growing roster of Holt Renfrew customers."<ref name=themontrealer>{{cite journal| last=Ward| first=Wallace|title=HR – Holt Renfrew| journal=The Montrealer| date=19 September 1955}}</ref>   The company hosted some of the leading international designers.  In 1952, [[Christian Dior|Mr. Christian Dior]] was guest of honour at Holts in Montreal.  Three years later, Dior was present for a fashion show of his creations at Holt Renfrew's new Toronto store, located along the [[Mink Mile]] at 144 [[Bloor Street|Bloor Street West]] – the country's first ever all stainless steel building, noteworthy for its "modern facade of blue glass and gleaming material."<ref name=themontrealer/>  Dior models, from Paris and New York, were specially flown in for the runway event.<ref name=fashions>{{cite news| last=Dickason| first=Olive| title=Fashions should be mirror of times| newspaper=The Globe and Mail| date=October 28, 1955}}</ref>

=== 1950&ndash;1999 ===
The 1950s, also saw the retailer establish new stores in secondary markets, including [[Edmonton]] in 1950, [[Calgary]] and [[London, Ontario|London]] in 1953. The chain also opened outlets in some of the country's most prominent luxury hotels, including the [[Fairmont Royal York|Royal York]], the [[Chateau Frontenac]], and the [[Château Laurier]].<ref name="UWO">{{cite web |work=Canadian Register of Commerce & Industry |publisher=University of Western Ontario |url=http://www.lib.uwo.ca/business/cr-holtrenfrew.htm |title=Holt Renfrew & Co. Ltd. |access-date=2007-03-18 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071203053925/http://www.lib.uwo.ca/business/cr-holtrenfrew.htm |archive-date=December 3, 2007}}</ref>

The 1960s, saw Holt Renfrew build on its reputation as a high-end luxury retailer, closely associated with the leading European fashion houses.  In 1962, the company announced that it had secured an exclusive agreement to represent Paris designer [[Yves Saint Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint Laurent]] and his haute couture in Canada. At the same time, the chain promoted new, more affordable, ready-to-wear fashion designed to attract a younger clientele.  It established in-store shops for its Miss Renfrew line, marketed to "Young Careerists, College Girls, and Young Matrons," who wished to dress fashionably on a budget.<ref name=meetmiessrenfrew>{{cite news| title=Meet Miss Renfrew (advertisement)| newspaper=Toronto Daily Star| date=September 9, 1960| url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/1428369164| id={{ProQuest|1428369164}}|url-access=subscription }}</ref>

Holt Renfrew's retail expansion continued with mall openings at Toronto's [[Yorkdale Shopping Centre]] in 1964, and [[Place Sainte-Foy|Place Ste-Foy]], Quebec City, in 1965.<ref name="magazine">Sirant, Zenya.  ''Anniversary Party: After 170 Years, Holt Renfrew Takes a Moment to Look Back''.  Holts.  Women's Fall 2007.  pp. 142–3.</ref>  By the mid-Sixties, Holt Renfrew experienced a change of ownership with the announcement that the Canadian Acceptance Corporation, a wholly owned subsidiary of [[CIT Group|C.I.T. Financial]] of New York, had acquired 93 percent of the company's shares – that after a brief period of ownership by English retailer Blackett & Son Ltd.<ref name=planstoexpand>{{cite news| title=Holt, Renfrew plans to expand modestly| newspaper=[[Financial Post]]| date=August 4, 1965}}</ref> In 1971, Canadian Acceptance Corporation sold Holt Renfrew to Los Angeles-based department store holding company Broadway-Hale (later renamed Carter Hawley Hale).<ref name=lat-1971dec22>{{cite news |url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/156861061 |title=Broadway-Hale to Acquire 19-Store Canadian Retailer |newspaper=[[Los Angeles Times]] |date=December 22, 1971 |page=d13 |id={{ProQuest|156861061}} |url-access=subscription  |quote=Broadway-Hale Stores Inc. of Los Angeles reported Tuesday that it has agreed to purchase Holt, Renfrew & Co. Ltd., a 19-store Canadian fashion retailing chain, from a subsidiary of CIT Financial Corp... Canadian Acceptance Corp., Ltd., a unit of New York-based CIT.}}</ref>

The decade also saw a change in leadership as Alvin J. Walker retired after 25 years as company president in 1967.  He was succeeded by Lenard M. Shavick.  Shavick, who joined Holt Renfrew in the post-war years as a buyer, saw to the chain's continued close relationship with the fashion houses of Europe and North America with frequent buying trips aboard.  "Every year, Shavick makes three or four trips to the fashion capitals while his staff of 18 buyers follow through with as many as 60 or 70 of their own."  Shavick further saw to the expansion of the chain's retail footprint with eleven new stores for a total of 23 outlets by 1971.<ref name=keeping>{{cite journal| title=Keeping Holt Haute| journal=Citations, C.I.T.| date=10 September 1971}}</ref>  He unveiled Holt Renfrew's first West Coast store at the new Pacific Centre, Vancouver, British Columbia, in 1975.  Four years later, he oversaw the development of the company's new Toronto flagship store, at 50 Bloor Street West, with some {{convert|73,000|ft2}} of retail space, at a cost of $6.5 million.<ref name=highstyle>{{cite news| title=High style, money and marble| newspaper=Financial Times| date=February 5, 1979}}</ref>  In 1983, the chain's Edmonton branch opened a $6 million, {{convert|45,000|ft2|adj=on}} store in Manulife Place – the city's newest and tallest building.<ref name=HRmanulifeplace>{{cite news| title=Company news – Holt Renfrew| newspaper=The Globe and Mail| date=February 10, 1983}}</ref>
[[File:Holt Renfrew in Montreal 2007.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Holt Renfew's store in Montreal in 2007. The company did restoration work to the building during the 1980s.]]
The 1980s, saw Holt Renfrew return to Canadian ownership after [[Carter Hawley Hale Stores|Carter Hawley Hale]] of Los Angeles put Holt, its only foreign asset, up for sale.  In April 1986, an agreement with Wittington Investments Limited, a [[Weston family]] holding company led by W. Galen Weston, was announced.<ref name=galenwestontobuy>{{cite news |title=Galen Weston to buy elite Holt Renfrew |date=February 19, 1986 |page=B1 |first=Kenneth |last=Kidd |url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/435407075 |newspaper=Toronto Star |id={{ProQuest|435407075}} |url-access=subscription }}</ref><ref name=lat-1986feb19>{{cite news |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1986-02-19-fi-9661-story.html |title=Carter Hawley to Sell Its 15-Store Unit in Canada |newspaper=[[Los Angeles Times]] |date=February 19, 1986 |first=Nancy |last=Rivera}}</ref><ref name=mg-1986feb19>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1946&dat=19860219&id=V4kxAAAAIBAJ&pg=2897,4638367&hl=en |title=Weston To Buy Holt Renfrew |newspaper=Montreal Gazette |date=February 19, 1986 |pages=F-1 |first=Brian |last=Dunn}}</ref> With Michael Brickell as company president, Galen Weston as chairman and wife [[Hilary Weston|Hilary M. Weston]] as vice-chairman, the chain underwent dramatic changes, including the introduction of new retail formats and extensive interior renovations to its lead Toronto and Montreal stores.  The new owners gutted some {{convert|7,000|ft2}} at the Bloor Street West flagship to accommodate new designer boutiques, as the retailer moved to restore a sense of luxury and intimacy.  They hired New York retail designer Naomi Leff to guide the renovations and changes to its merchandising mix.  In Montreal, they began work to revitalize the grandeur of the original 1937 Art Deco architecture of the Sherbrooke St. store and added  [[Giorgio Armani]] and [[Yves Saint Laurent (brand)|Yves Saint Laurent]] shops to both Toronto and Montreal.<ref name=noholtsbarred>{{cite journal| title=No Holt's barred| journal=[[Flare (magazine)|Flare]]| date=March 1988}}</ref>  A new high-end Holt Renfrew retail magazine, called "Point of View," was launched a year later.

The 1990s, under president Joel Rath, saw further expansion with some 62 thousand square feet of retail space added, in particular to Holt's landmark Montreal store.  The Sherbrooke Street site doubled its space in a $30 million expansion that pushed into adjoining buildings to accommodate luxury brand boutiques including [[Chanel]].<ref name=holtsmystique>{{cite news| last=Gray| first=Alan D.| title=Holt's – the mystique is growing| newspaper=Montreal Gazette| date=September 6, 1994}}</ref>  The decade closed with the appointment of veteran British retailer Andrew Jennings as company president.<ref name=facelift>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew undergoes facelift| newspaper=The Globe and Mail|date=September 13, 1999}}</ref>   Jennings vowed to make Holt Renfrew "one of the world's great fashion and lifestyle stores."<ref name="marking175"/>

== 21st century history ==
[[File:Holt Renfrew in Square One Mississauga 2022.jpg|thumb|Interior of the Holt Renfrew at [[Square One Shopping Centre]] in [[Mississauga]]]] 
The company entered the new millennium with the relaunch of its retail magazine under the name "Holts."  The seasonal publication became separate women's and men's editions in 2006.<ref name="magazine"/>  Holt Renfrew also began sponsoring a series of large scale promotional events.  In 2002, it hosted 'Viva Italia,' a celebration of Italian fashion and the performing arts.  A year later, the retailer marked 'Flick,' a Sixites theme gala that coincided with the [[Toronto International Film Festival]].  In 2004, Holt Renfrew and [[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]] presented 'Vinyl,' a "hot pink, style-in-the-groove" celebration of music and fashion.<ref name=wwd2012>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew: On a Youth Click| url=http://wwd.com/business-news/media/holt-renfrew-on-a-youth-click-6482075/| first=Rachel| last=Strugatz| newspaper=Women's Wear Daily| date=November 13, 2012}}</ref>

With the departure of Andrew Jennings, Caryn Lerner took over as president in 2004.  Lerner, the first woman to lead Holt Renfrew, had previously held senior management positions at [[QVC]], Jones New York, Barneys New York and [[Bloomingdale's]] and [[Escada]].<ref>{{cite news| last=Kletter| first=Melanie| title=Lerner Named President at Holt Renfrew| url=http://wwd.com/business-news/retail/lerner-named-president-at-holt-renfrew-698783/| work=Women's Wear Daily| date=September 10, 2004}}</ref>
In 2005, Holt Renfrew underwent an extensive rebranding. Led by [[Alannah Weston]], creative director at [[Selfridges]] and daughter of Holt Renfew chairman W. Galen Weston, a new logo, reflecting the company's historic past, and magenta colour was adopted across the chain.<ref name=connection>{{cite web| last=Walford| first=Jonathan| title=Canadian Fashion Connection – Holt Renfrew & Co.| url=http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=2040| archive-url=https://archive.today/20130411051644/http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=2040| url-status=usurped| archive-date=April 11, 2013|publisher=Johnathan Walford's blog| access-date=6 February 2013}}</ref>  Other changes included the return of children's wear and more retail space devoted to footwear.
[[File:Holt Renfrew Vancouver interior 2018.jpg|thumb|Interior of the Holt Renfrew at Dunsmuir Street in [[Vancouver]] in 2018]] 
More than three decades after opening its first Vancouver outlet, Holt Renfrew unveiled a new store at 737 Dunsmuir Street in June 2007.  Described by one design critic as a "glossy monument to high-end chic<ref name=luxelook>{{cite journal|last=Cannon|first=Robyn Roehm|title=Holt Renfrew's Luxe Look: Janson Goldstein brings global style to Vancouver, British Columbia|journal=Interior Design|date=1 October 2007}}</ref>  the store featured a pillowed glass exterior and a three-storey atrium.   At {{convert|110,000|ft2}}, the new space represented more than double the retail square footage of the old store at 633 Granville Street, located at the opposite end of the [[Pacific Centre]].  Two years later, a new Calgary store was officially unveiled.   Both retail spaces were the design work of the [[New York City]] firm of Janson Goldstein.<ref>{{cite press release |title=Holt Renfrew Opens Doors to New Calgary Flagship |publisher=Holt Renfrew |date=7 October 2009 |url=http://www.newswire.ca/en/releases/archive/October2009/07/c4705.html}}</ref>

=== 2010&ndash;present ===
[[File:HoltRenfrewHR2-2.jpg|thumb|An ''hr2'' at [[Vaughan Mills]]. The chain was a new initiative from the company.]]
In 2010, Canadian retail executive Mark Derbyshire replaced Caryn Lerner as president.<ref>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew pulls presidential switch| url=https://www.thestar.com/business/article/747912--holt-renfrew-pulls-presidential-switch| work=Toronto Star| access-date=20 March 2012| date=January 8, 2010 |last=Flavelle |first=Dana}}</ref> Derbyshire expressed his desire to do more to appeal to the men's segment of the fashion market.<ref name=fashionmindedman>{{cite news| last=Strauss| first=Marina| title=Holt Renfrew targets the fashion minded man| newspaper=The Globe and Mail| date=September 6, 2012| url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/holt-renfrew-targets-the-fashion-minded-man/article4525205/}}</ref>

In 2012, Holt Renfrew marked its 175th anniversary with a series of major events across the country.  Birthday celebrations were capped off with the release of limited edition HR175 designer merchandise and a large street party at its Bloor Street West store.  In 2013, the company announced a new retail initiative called "hr2," a chain of outlets focused on mid-priced designer merchandise and luxury goods.<ref name=launchlowerpriced>{{cite news| title=Holt Renfrew to launch lower priced chain in early 2013| url=http://business.financialpost.com/2012/10/29/holt-renfrew-to-launch-lower-priced-chain-in-early-2013/| access-date=8 January 2013| newspaper=[[National Post]] |agency=Reuters}}</ref>  The hr2 stores were closed in 2017.<ref name=hr2ri/>
{{clear}}

== Retail formats ==
=== Full-line stores ===
[[File:Calgary Plus 15.jpg|thumb|Exterior entrance to Holt Renfrew at [[The Core (shopping centre)|The Core]] in [[Calgary]]]]

Holt Renfrew also has contributed to promote new brands, such as [[Greta Constantine]], designed by Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong.<ref>{{cite journal| title=Made in Canada: Breakfast with a Whole New Generation of Designers| url=http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/vd-made-in-canada-breakfast-with-a-whole-new-generation-of-designers/| first=Mark| last=Holgate| date=April 1, 2010| journal=[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]| url-status=dead| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120112024533/http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/vd-made-in-canada-breakfast-with-a-whole-new-generation-of-designers/| archive-date=January 12, 2012}}</ref>

In October 2014, the company opened a {{convert|16,500|sqft|m2|adj=on}} menswear-only location called Holt Renfrew Men at 100 Bloor St W, next to the {{convert|55,000|ft2|adj=on}} [[Harry Rosen Inc.]] flagship store, to complement the existing Holt Renfrew flagship store at 50 Bloor St W.

In July 2016, the company opened a {{convert|130,000|ft2|m2|adj=on}} location at Square One Shopping Center in Mississauga, Ontario, while a smaller [[Sherway Gardens]] location nearby closed the same month.<ref>{{cite news |title=Holt Renfrew to close Sherway Gardens store |url=https://www.thestar.com/business/2016/02/10/holt-renfrew-to-close-sherway-gardens-store.html |first=Francine |last=Kopun |date=February 10, 2016 |work=Toronto Star}}</ref>

The closure of the Ottawa and Quebec City stores was announced in August 2014.<ref>{{cite news |title=Holt Renfrew to close stores in Quebec City, Ottawa |url=https://www.thestar.com/business/2014/08/28/holt_renfrew_to_close_stores_in_quebec_city_ottawa.html |first=Francine |last=Kopun |date=August 28, 2014 |work=Toronto Star}}</ref>

{|class="wikitable sortable"
|+ List of Holt Renfrew stores
! Province
! City
! Shopping center or district
! Size
! Year<br />opened
! Year<br />closed
! class="unsortable" | Notes
|-
| rowspan="2" | [[Alberta]]
| [[Calgary]]
| [[The Core (shopping centre)|The Core]]
| {{convert|147000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 2009
| {{N/A}}
| 
|-
| [[Edmonton]]
| [[Manulife Place]]
| {{convert|47000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1950
| 2020
| 
|-
| rowspan="2" | [[British Columbia]]
| rowspan="2" | [[Vancouver]]
| rowspan="2" | [[Pacific Centre]]
| {{convert|68000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1975
| 2007
| 
|-
| {{convert|190000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 2007
| {{N/A}}
| 
|-
| [[Manitoba]]
| [[Winnipeg]]
| [[Portage Place]]
| {{convert|2990|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1982
| 2015
| 
|-
| rowspan="6" | [[Ontario]]
| [[Mississauga]]
| [[Square One Shopping Centre]]
| {{convert|130000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 2016
| {{N/A}}
| 
|-
| [[Ottawa]]
| [[C.D. Howe Building]]
| {{convert|36000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1945
| 2015
| 
|-
| rowspan="4" | [[Toronto]]
| [[Holt Renfrew Centre]]
| {{convert|180000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1979
| {{N/A}}
| Flagship store
|-
| [[Bloor Street|Bloor Street West]]
| {{convert|16500|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 2014
| 2024
| Men's store; re-combined with Toronto flagship store in 2024<ref>{{cite web|url=https://retail-insider.com/bulletin/2023/03/holt-renfrew-to-relocate-standalone-mens-store-on-torontos-bloor-street-back-into-flagship/|title=Holt Renfrew To Relocate Standalone Men's Store On Toronto's Bloor Street Back Into Flagship|last=Patterson|first=Craig|publisher=Retail Insider|date=March 16, 2023|accessdate=March 23, 2023}}</ref>
|-
| [[Sherway Gardens]]
| {{convert|33670|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1971
| 2016
| 
|-
| [[Yorkdale Shopping Centre]]
| {{convert|120000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1964
| {{N/A}}
| 
|-
| rowspan="4" | [[Quebec]]
| rowspan="2" | [[Montreal]]
| [[Sherbrooke Street]]
| {{convert|84000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1937
| 2020
| 
|-
| [[Saint Catherine Street|Sainte-Catherine Street West]]
| {{convert|250000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 2019
| {{N/A}}
| Co-branded with Ogilvy and renamed [[Holt Renfrew Ogilvy]]
|-
| [[Mount Royal, Quebec|Mount Royal]]
| [[Rockland Centre]]
| {{convert|21000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1959
| 2003
| 
|-
| [[Quebec City]]
| [[Place Sainte-Foy]]
| {{convert|33000|sqft|m2|abbr=on}}
| 1965
| 2015
| 
|}

==== Holts Café ====
The Bloor Street, Yorkdale, Montreal, and Vancouver locations include ''Holts Café'', an informal diner-like restaurant concept, that features [[tartine]] made from Poilane bread that is flown in directly from [[Paris]], [[France]].<ref name="Official">{{cite web| publisher=Holt Renfrew| title=Our History| url=http://www.holtrenfrew.com/store/holt/pages/about-us/our-history| access-date=July 31, 2017}}</ref> The 80-seat Vancouver location was designed by Yabu Pushelberg. Holts Cafés long planned for Square One and Calgary have not materialized.

=== Defunct formats ===
Other recent closures include the "Last Call" end-of-the-line store at [[Vaughan Mills]] in [[Vaughan]], [[Ontario]],<ref name="Official"/> and the Last Call outlet in [[Winnipeg]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Kives |first=Bartley |url=http://www.winnipegfreepress.com/subscriber/local/story/4039797p-4648652c.html |title=Downtown Mall Turns 20, Gains a Viable Identity |work=[[Winnipeg Free Press]] |date=September 16, 2007 |access-date=2007-09-23 }}</ref> The remaining Holt Renfrew personal shopping suites and a cosmetics outlet in Winnipeg closed in 2015.<ref>{{cite web |title=Holt Renfrew Stores |url=http://www.holtrenfrew.com/store/holt/stores/all-stores| publisher=Holt Renfrew |access-date=31 July 2017}}</ref> The Edmonton store which had been in the podium of [[Manulife Place]] since 1982 closed on January 11, 2020, ending the chain's 70 years of continuous operation in the city. This is as the company has been focusing on larger stores with {{convert|130,000|ft2}} or more.<ref name=hr2ri>{{cite web |url=https://www.retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2019/05/holt-renfrew-announces-closure-of-manulife-place-edmonton-store/ |title=Holt Renfrew to Shutter hr2 Division |website=retail-insider.com |date=February 27, 2017 |access-date=February 24, 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://globalnews.ca/news/5275520/holt-renfrew-edmonton-store-closure/ | title=Holt Renfrew closing Edmonton store in 2020 to focus on bigger locations - Edmonton &#124; Globalnews.ca }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2020/01/holt-renfrew-exits-downtown-edmonton-store-after-70-year-run-analysis/ | title=Holt Renfrew Exits Downtown Edmonton Store After 70-Year Run &#91;Analysis&#93; | date=13 January 2020 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2020/01/in-pictures-the-final-days-of-holt-renfrew-edmonton-photo-essay/ | title=In Pictures: The Final Days of Holt Renfrew in Edmonton &#91;Photo Essay&#93; | date=13 January 2020 }}</ref>

==See also==
*[[List of department stores#Canada|List of Canadian department stores]]
*[[Retail apocalypse]]

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==External links==
{{Commons category}}
* [http://www.holtrenfrew.com/ Official website]

[[Category:Department stores of Canada]]
[[Category:Weston family]]
[[Category:Companies based in Toronto]]
[[Category:Canadian brands]]
[[Category:Privately held companies of Canada]]
[[Category:British royal warrant holders]]
[[Category:Retail companies established in 1837]]