Editing Main chain of the Alps

{{Short description|Central line of mountains that forms the divide of the Alps}}

[[File:AlpenHauptkamm mit Grenzen.jpg|thumb|320px|Main chain of the Alps]]

The '''main chain of the Alps''', also called the '''Alpine divide''' is the central line of mountains that forms the [[drainage divide]] of the range.  Main chains of [[mountain range]]s are traditionally designated in this way, and generally include the highest [[pyramidal peak|peak]]s of a range. The [[Alps]] are something of an unusual case in that several significant groups of mountains are separated from the main chain by sizable distances.  Among these groups are the [[Dauphine Alps]], the Eastern and Western [[Graian Alps|Graian]]s, the entire [[Bernese Alps]], the [[Tödi]], [[Albula Range|Albula]] and [[Silvretta]] groups, the [[Ortler]] and [[Adamello]] ranges, and the [[Dolomites]] of [[Veneto]] and [[South Tyrol]], as well as the lower [[Alps]] of [[Vorarlberg]], Bavaria, and [[Salzburg (state)|Salzburg]].

==Main features==
The Alpine Divide is defined for much of its distance by the watershed between the drainage basin of the [[Po (river)|Po]] in Italy on one side, with the other side of the divide being formed by the [[Rhone]], the [[Rhine]] and the [[Danube]]. Further east, the watershed is between the [[Adige]] and the [[Danube]], before heading into Austria and draining on both sides into the Danube. For much of its distance the watershed lies on or close to the Italian border, although there are numerous deviations, notably, the Swiss canton of [[Ticino]] which lies south of the range in the Po river basin.

For only a small portion of its total distance does the Alpine divide form a part of the main [[European watershed]], in the central section where the watershed is between the Po and the Rhine.

The Alps are generally divided into [[Eastern Alps]] and [[Western Alps]], cut along a line between [[Lake Como]] and [[Lake Constance]], following the [[Rhine]] valley.<ref>{{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=HwJ7ekNVh6QC | title=Climate Change in the European Alps | publisher=[[OECD]] | year=2007 | pages=18 | isbn=9789264031692 |quote=They are generally divided into the Western Alps and the Eastern Alps, separated by Rhine and the Splügen pass in eastern Switzerland.}}</ref>

* The Eastern Alps (main [[ridge]] elongated and broad) belong to [[Austria]], [[Germany]], [[Italy]], [[Slovenia]], and [[Switzerland]].
* The Western Alps are higher, but their central chain is shorter and much curved; they are located in [[France]], Italy, and Switzerland.

[[Piz Bernina]] (4,049 metres) is the highest peak of the Eastern Alps while the highest peak of the Western Alps is [[Mont Blanc]] (4,810.45 metres).<ref name="smc4810.45">{{cite web |title=Mont Blanc shrinks by 45cm in two years |date=2009-11-05 |website=[[The Sydney Morning Herald]] |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230214082228/https://www.smh.com.au/environment/mont-blanc-shrinks-by-45cm-in-two-years-20091106-i0kk.html |archive-date=2023-02-14 |url-status=live |url=http://www.smh.com.au/environment/mont-blanc-shrinks-by-45cm-in-two-years-20091106-i0kk.html}}</ref>

=== Eastern Alps ===
[[File:Fuscherkarkopf- Sinwelleck.JPG|thumb|Main ridge ([[Fuscherkarkopf]]) in the Hohe Tauern range]]

From the [[Maloja Pass]] (1,815 m) the main watershed dips to the south-east for a short distance, and then runs eastwards and nearly over the highest summit of the [[Bernina Range]], [[Piz Bernina]] (4,049 m), to the [[Bernina Pass]]. From here the main chain is less well defined, it rises to [[Piz Paradisin]] (3,302 m), beyond which it runs slightly north-east, east of the Italian resort of [[Livigno]], past [[Fraele Pass]] (1,952 m) and the source of the [[Adda (river)|Adda]], traverses [[Piz Murtarol]] (3,180 m) and [[Monte Forcola]], where is the tripoint between the Danube, Po and [[Adige]] basins,<ref>{{cite web | url=https://s.geo.admin.ch/9720cdf776 | title=Monte Forcola on the Swiss National Map | publisher=[[Federal Office of Topography]] | accessdate=4 April 2022}}</ref> then falls to the [[Ofen Pass]] (2,149 m), soon heads north and rises once more in [[Piz Sesvenna]] (3,204 m).

The [[Reschen Pass]] (1,504 m) marks a break in the continuity of the Alpine chain. The deep valley, the [[Vinschgau]] of the upper Adige, is one of the most remarkable features in the orography of the Alps. The little [[Reschen Lake]], which forms the chief source of the Adige, is only 4 metres below the Pass, and 8&nbsp;km from the [[Inn River|Inn]] valley. Eastward of this pass, the main chain runs north-east to the [[Brenner Pass]] along the snowy crest of the [[Ötztal Alps|Ötztal]], the highest point being the [[Weißkugel]] (3,739 m), then crossing the [[Timmelsjoch]] (2,474 m) and rising again in [[Stubai Alps]] Both the highest summits of the Ötztal and the Stubai, the [[Wildspitze]] (3,774 m) and the [[Zuckerhütl]] (3,505 m), stand a little to the north.

The [[Brenner Pass|Brenner]] (1,370 m) is the lowest of all the great road passes across the core part of the main chain and has always been the chief means of communication between Germany and Italy. For some way beyond it, the watershed runs eastwards over the highest crest of the [[Zillertal Alps]], which attains 3,510 metres in the [[Hochfeiler]]. But, a little farther, at the [[Dreiherrnspitze]] (3,499 m), the chain splits: the main watershed between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean heads south, along the [[Rieserferner Group]] to the [[Dolomites]], and [[Julian Alps]].

The main alpine divide head east, traversing the [[High Tauern]] range, crossing the [[Grossvenediger]] (3,666 m), passing just north of Austria's highest peak (the [[Grossglockner]]), traversing [[Ankogel]] (3,252 m), before curving northern across the [[Lower Tauern]], traversing its highest peak, [[Hochgolling]] (2,863 m) in the [[Schladming Tauern]] and then continuing on the same eastward path up to the [[Schober Pass]] in [[Styria]]. The [[drainage divide]] further runs eastwards through the [[Northern Limestone Alps]], ending at "[[Vienna]] Gate", the steep slopes of the [[Leopoldsberg]] (425 m) high above the [[Danube]] water gap and the [[Vienna Basin]].

=== Western Alps ===
Starting from the [[Bocchetta di Altare]] or di [[Colle di Cadibona]] (west of [[Savona]]), the main chain extends first south-west, then north-west to the [[Col de Tenda]], though nowhere rising much beyond the zone of coniferous trees. Beyond the [[Col de Tenda]] the direction is first roughly west, then north-west to the [[Rocca dei Tre Vescovi]] (2,840 m), just south of the [[Enciastraia]] (2,955 m), several peaks of about 3,000 metres rising on the [[drainage basin|watershed]], though the highest of all, the [[Punta dell'Argentera]] (3,297 m) stands a little way to its north. From the Rocher des Trois Eveques the drainage divide runs due north for a long distance, though of the two loftiest peaks of this region one, the [[Aiguille de Chambeyron]] (3,412 m), is just to the west, and the other, the [[Monviso]] (3,841&nbsp;m), is just to the east of the divide. From the head of the [[Val Pellice]] the main chain runs north-west and diminishes much in average height until it reaches the [[Mont Thabor]] (3,178 m), which forms the apex of a salient angle which the main chain here presents towards the west. From here the divide extends eastwards, culminating in the [[Aiguille de Scolette]] (3,505 m), but makes a great curve to the north-west and back to the south-east before rising in the [[Rocciamelone]] (3,509 m). From there the direction taken is north as far as the eastern summit (3,619 m) of the [[Levanna]], the divide rising in a series of snowy peaks, though the loftiest point of the region, the [[Pointe de Charbonnel]] (3,760 m), stands a little to the west. Once more the chain bends to the north-west, rising in several lofty peaks (the highest is the [[Aiguille de la Grande Sassière]], 3,751 m), before attaining the considerable depression of the [[Little St Bernard Pass]].

[[File:Witenwasserenstock Tripoint.jpg|thumb|View of the [[Witenwasserenstock]] with the tripoint between the Rhone, Rhine, and Po basins (center left)]]

The divide then briefly turns north to the [[Col de la Soigne]], and then north-east along the crest of the Mont Blanc chain, which culminates in the peak of [[Mont Blanc]] (4,810 m),<ref name="smc4810.45" /> the highest in the Alps. A number of high peaks line the divide, notably the [[Grandes Jorasses]] (4,208 m) before it reaches [[Mont Dolent]] (3,823 m), where France, Italy and Switzerland meet. From there, after a short dip to the south-east, the chain takes, near the [[Great St. Bernard Pass]], a generally eastern direction that it maintains until it reaches [[Monte Rosa]], where it bends northwards, making one small dip to the east to the [[Simplon Pass]]. It is in the portion of the watershed between the Grande St Bernard Pass and the Simplon that the main chain maintains a greater average height than in any other part. But, though it rises in a number of lofty peaks, such as the [[Mont Vélan]] (3,727 m), the [[Matterhorn]] (4,478 m), the [[Lyskamm]] (4,533 m), the Nord End of [[Monte Rosa]] (4,575 m), and the [[Weissmies]] (4,023 m), many of the highest points of the region, such as the [[Grand Combin]] (4,314 m), the [[Dent Blanche]] (4,357 m), the [[Weisshorn]] (4,505 m), the true summit or [[Dufourspitze]] (4,634 m) of Monte Rosa itself, and the [[Dom (mountain)|Dom]] (4,545 m), all rise on its northern slope and not on the main chain. On the other hand, the chain between the Grande St Bernard and the Simplon sinks at barely half a dozen points below a level of 3,000 metres.

The [[Simplon Pass]] (1.994 m) corresponds to a change in the main chain: the peaks and passes are lower, but as far as the Splugenpass, all the highest summits rise on the divide. From there to the [[Gotthard pass|St. Gotthard pass]] (2,106 m) the divide runs north-east,  crossing [[Monte Leone]] (3,533 m), and [[Pizzo Rotondo]] (3,192 m). Near the [[Witenwasserenstock]] is the point where the basin of the Po, the Rhine and the Rhone meet, and the European Watershed joins the Alpine divide. From the St. Gotthard to the [[Maloja Pass|Maloja]] the watershed between the basins of the [[Rhine]] and [[Po River|Po]] runs in a generally easterly direction. It goes over [[Passo del Lucomagno]] (1,915 m), across [[Scopi]] (3,200 m), [[Piz Medel]] (3,210 m) and [[Piz Terri]] (3,149 m), where it turns towards the south to the [[Rheinwaldhorn]] (3,402&nbsp;m). Here the divide veers back east over the [[Vogelberg]] (3,220 m) to the San Bernardino Pass (2,067 m), then over the [[Tambohorn|Pizzo Tambo]] (3,279 m), the [[Splugenpass]] (2,114 m) and [[Piz Timun]] (3,209 m). From here the divide heads south again to [[Pizzo Stella]] (3,163 m) and then east over [[Pizz Gallagiun]] (3,107 m), to where, near the [[Lunghin pass]], it reaches the main triple divide of the Alps: where water can flow to the Atlantic, the Mediterranean or the Black Sea. The main [[European watershed]] leaves the Alpine divide here, heading north, while the divide continues east to the [[Maloja Pass]] (1,815 m).

== Glaciers ==
The main chain has more [[glacier]]s and eternal snow than the independent or external [[mountain range|ranges]]. The longest of these were both {{convert|9+1/4|mi|km|order=flip|abbr=off}} a century ago, the [[Mer de Glace]] at [[Chamonix]] (now {{convert|4+3/4|mi|km|order=flip|abbr=on|disp=or}})  and the [[Gorner Glacier]] at [[Zermatt]] (now {{convert|7+3/4|mi|km|order=flip|abbr=on|disp=or}}). In the [[Eastern Alps]] the longest glacier was the [[Pasterze Glacier]] ({{convert|5+1/4|mi|km|order=flip|abbr=on|disp=or}} in 1911), which is not near the true main watershed, though it clings to the slope of the [[Grossglockner]] (3,798 m) in the Hohe Tauern range east of the Dreiherrenspitze. But two other long glaciers in the Eastern Alps (the [[Hintereis]], and the [[Gepatsch]]) are both in the Ötztal Alps, and so are close to the true main [[drainage basin|watershed]].

== Major Passes ==
{| class="wikitable sortable" style="font-size: 10pt; font-size:85%"
|-
! Name !! Height !! Countries !! Traversed by !! Remarks
|-
| [[Colle di Cadibona]]  ||  436m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Provinciale 81 Italia.svg|x20px|SP81]] [[Strada Provinciale 81 di Vallenzona]] || Pass separates Alps from [[Apennine Mountains]].
|-
| [[Colle del Melogno]]  || 1028m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 490 Italia.svg|x20px|SS490]] [[Strada Statale 490 del Colle del Melogno]] ||
|-
| [[Colle San Bernardo]] ||  957m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 582 Italia.svg|x20px|SS582]] [[Strada Statale 582 del Colle di San Bernardo]] ||
|-
| [[Passo di Prale]]     || 1258m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Provinciale 216 Italia.svg|x20px|SP216]] [[Strada Provinciale 216]] || Passes border between Italian regions of [[Piedmont|Piemont]] and [[Liguria]].  
|-
| [[Colle di Nava]]      ||  934m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 28 Italia.svg|x20px|SS28]] [[Strada Statale 28 del Colle di Nava]] ||
|-
| [[Colle San Bernardo di Mendatica]] || 1262m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Provinciale 74 Italia.svg|x20px|SP74]] [[Strada Provinciale 74]] <br> [[File:Strada Provinciale 100 Italia.svg|x20px|SP100]] [[Strada Provinciale 100]] || 
|- 
| [[Col de Tende]]       || 1870m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Route nationale française 204.svg|x20px|R204]] [[Route nationale 204]] <br> [[File:Strada Statale 20 Italia.svg|x20px|SS20]] [[Strada Statale 20 del Colle di Tenda e di Valle Roja]] || The [[Col de Tende Road Tunnel]] opened in 1882 runs under the pass. 
|-
| [[Col de la Lombarde]] || 2351m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Route départementale française 97.svg|x20px|D97]] [[Route départementale 97]] <br> [[File:Strada Provinciale 255 Italia.svg|x20px|SP255]] [[Strada Provinciale 255]] ||
|- 
| [[Col de Larche]]      || 1991m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Route départementale française 900.svg|x20px|D900]] [[Route départementale 900]] <br> [[File:Strada Statale 21 Italia.svg|x20px|SS21]] [[Strada Statale 21 della Maddalena]] ||
|- 
| [[Col Agnel]]          || 2744m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Route départementale française 205.svg|x20px|D205]] [[Route départementale 205]] <br> [[File:Strada Provinciale 255 Italia.svg|x20px|SP251]] [[Strada Provinciale 251]] ||
|- 
| [[Col de Montgenèvre]] || 1860m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}}}} || [[File:Route nationale française 94.svg|x20px|RN94]] [[Route nationale 94]] ||
|- 
| [[Col du Mont Cenis]]  || 2081m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}}}} || [[File:Route nationale française 6.svg|x20px|RN6]] [[Route nationale 6]] ||
|- 
| [[Little St Bernard Pass]]  || 2188m || {{center|1={{flagicon|France}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Route nationale française 90.svg|x20px|RN90]] [[Route nationale 90]] <br> [[File:Strada Statale 26 Italia.svg|x20px|SS26]] [[Strada Statale 26 della Valle d’Aosta]] ||
|-
| [[Great St Bernard Pass]]  || 2469m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}} {{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 27 Italia.svg|x20px|SS 27]] [[Strada Statale 27 del Gran San Bernardo]] <br> [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 21.svg|x20px|21]] [[Hauptstrasse 21]] || The [[Great St Bernard Tunnel]] opened in 1964 runs under the pass.
|-
| [[Simplon Pass]]           || 2006m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 9.svg|x20px|9]] [[Hauptstrasse 9]] ||
|-
| [[Nufenen Pass]]           || 2478m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} ||  || Passes border between Swiss cantons of [[Ticino]] and [[Valais]].
|-
| [[Gotthard Pass]]          || 2106m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 2.svg|x20px|2]] [[Hauptstrasse 2]] ||
|-
| [[Lukmanier Pass]]         || 1917m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} ||[[Hauptstrasse 416]] || Passes border between Swiss cantons of [[Grisons]] and [[Ticino]]. <br> The [[Gotthard Base Tunnel]] opened in 2016 runs under the pass. 
|-
| [[San Bernardino Pass]]    || 2066m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 13.svg|x20px|13]] [[Hauptstrasse 13]] || The [[San Bernardino Tunnel]] opened in 1967 runs under the pass.
|-
| [[Splügen Pass]]           || 2114m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}} {{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 36 Italia.svg|x20px|SS36]] [[Strada Statale 36 del Lago di Como e dello Spluga]] <br>   [[Hauptstrasse 567]] ||
|-
| [[Maloja Pass]]            || 1812m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 3.svg|x20px|3]] [[Hauptstrasse 3]] ||
|-
| [[Bernina Pass]]           || 2328m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 29.svg|x20px|29]] [[Hauptstrasse 29]] <br> [[Bernina railway line]] ||
|-
| [[Livigno Pass]]           || 2315m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}} {{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} ||  ||
|-
| [[Foscagno Pass]]          || 2291m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:Strada Statale 301 Italia.svg|x20px|SS301]] [[Strada Statale 301]] ||
|-
| [[Fuorn Pass]]             || 2149m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Switzerland}}}} || [[File:Hauptstrasse Nummer 28.svg|x20px|28]] [[Hauptstrasse 28]] || 
|-
| [[Reschen Pass]]           || 1504m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:B180-AT.svg|x20px|25]] [[Reschenstraße]] <br/> [[File:Strada Statale 40 Italia.svg|x20px|SP44]] [[Strada Statale 40 di Resia]] ||
|-
| [[Timmelsjoch]]            || 2474m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[Timmelsjoch#Timmelsjoch Hochalpenstrasse|Timmelsjoch-Hochalpenstraße]] <br/> [[File:Strada Statale 44bis Italia.svg|x20px|SS38]] [[Strada Statale 44 bis Passo del Rombo]] ||
|-
|| [[Brennerpass]]           || 1370m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}} {{flagicon|Italy}}}} || [[File:A13-AT.svg|x20px|13]] [[Brenner Autobahn]] <br/> [[File:B182-AT.svg|x20px|25]] [[Brennerstraße]] <br/> [[File:Autostrada A22 Italia.svg|x20px|A22]] [[Autostrada A22 (Italy)|Autostrada A22]] <br/> [[File:Strada Statale 12 Italia.svg|x20px|SP44]] [[Strada Statale 12 dell'Abetone e del Brennero]] <br/> [[Brenner Railway]] ||
|-
| [[Grossglockner High Alpine Road|Hochtor]] || 2504m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[Grossglockner High Alpine Road|Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße]] || Passes border between Austrian states of [[Carinthia (state)|Carinthia]] and [[Salzburg (state)|Salzburg]].
|-
| [[Radstädter Tauern Pass]] || 1738m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B99-AT.svg|x20px|99]] [[Katschberg Straße]] ||
|-
| [[Triebener Tauern Pass]]  || 1274m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B114-AT.svg|x20px|114]] [[Triebener Straße]] ||
|-
| [[Schober Pass]]  ||  849m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:A9-AT.svg|x20px|9]] [[Pyhrn Autobahn]] <br> [[File:B113-AT.svg|x20px|113]] [[Schoberpass Straße]] <br> [[Rudolf Railway]] ||
|-
| [[Präbichl]]      || 1226m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B115-AT.svg|x20px|115]] [[Landesstraße 115]] ||
|-
| [[Lahn Saddle]]   || 1006m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B23-AT.svg|x20px|23]] [[Lahnsattel Straße]] ||
|-
| [[Ochsattel]]     ||  820m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B21-AT.svg|x20px|21]] [[Gutensteiner Straße]] ||
|-
| [[Gerichtsberg Pass]] ||  581m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || [[File:B18-AT.svg|x20px|18]] [[Hainfelder Straße]] ||
|-
| [[Klammhöhe]]     ||  618m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || || 
|-
| [[Riederberg (Wienerwald)]]   ||  384m || {{center|1={{flagicon|Austria}}}} || || 
|}

==See also==
*[[Alps]]
**[[Eastern Alps]]
**[[Western Alps]]
*[[Geography of the Alps]]
*[[High Alps]]

==References==
{{EB1911 |wstitle=Alps |volume=1 |pages=737–754 |first1=Philip |last1=Lake |author-link=Philip Lake |first2=Howard |last2=Knox |first3=W. A. B. |last3=Coolidge|author-link3=W. A. B. Coolidge}}
{{reflist}}

==External links==
* [https://geofinder.ch/alpenhauptkamm.php Simplified depiction of the Alpine divide] on ''GeoFinder.ch''

[[Category:Mountain ranges of the Alps]]