Editing Manaslu

{{Short description|8th-highest mountain on Earth}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Manaslu
| native_name ={{native name|ne|मनास्लु}}
| photo = Sunrise, Manaslu.jpg
| photo_caption = Manaslu at sunrise. The lower eastern summit appears taller due to foreshortening.
| elevation_m = 8163
| elevation_ref = <ref name=NepalFF2018/><br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 8th]]</small>
| prominence_m = 3092
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/><br /><small>[[List of peaks by prominence|Ranked 80th]]</small>
| listing = [[Eight-thousander]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
| translation = Mountain of the spirit
| language = [[Sanskrit]]
| location = [[Gorkha District]], [[Manang]]-[[Gandaki Province]], Nepal
| range = [[Mansiri Himal]], [[Himalayas]]
| map_caption = Location of Manaslu
| map_size =
| map_image = {{OSM Himalaya|lat_d=28.5|long_d=84.6|zoom=7}}
| label_position = left
| coordinates = {{coord|28|32|58|N|84|33|43|E|type:mountain_region:NP_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name=NepalFF2018/>
| first_ascent = May 9, 1956, by a [[Japan]]ese team<ref name=NepalFF2018_FA/><br />(First winter ascent 12 January 1984 [[Maciej Berbeka]] and [[Ryszard Gajewski]])
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb on NE face
}}

'''Manaslu''' ({{IPAc-en|m|ə|ˈ|n|ɑː|s|l|uː}}; {{langx|ne|मनास्लु}}, also known as '''Kutang''') is the [[List of highest mountains#List|eighth-highest mountain]] in the world at {{convert|8163|m|ft}} above [[sea level]]. It is in the [[Mansiri Himal]], part of the [[Nepal]]ese [[Himalayas]], in  west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the spirit" and the word is derived from the [[Sanskrit]] word ''manasa'', meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a [[Japan]]ese expedition. It is said that, given the many unsuccessful attempts by the British to climb [[Mount Everest|Everest]] before [[Nepali people|Nepali]] [[Tenzing Norgay]] and [[New Zealander]] [[Edmund Hillary]], "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".<ref name=Mayhew>Mayhew, p. 326</ref><ref name=summit>{{cite web|url=http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150687/manaslu.html|title=Manaslu|access-date=2010-04-10|publisher=Summitpost}}</ref>
[[File:Manaslu Peak.jpg|thumb|Manaslu Peak]]

Manaslu is the highest peak in the [[Gorkha District]] and is about {{convert|64|km|mi|abbr=on}} east of [[Annapurna]], the [[List of highest mountains on Earth|tenth highest mountain]] in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545&nbsp;ft) above sea level. Manaslu's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar.<ref name=Reynolds/><ref name=summit/><ref name=club>{{cite web|url= http://www.adventuremountainclub.com/new/nepal_trekking/manaslu_region/manaslu_circuit.php|title= Circuit|access-date= 2010-04-14|publisher= Mountain Club|url-status= dead|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20100317074355/http://www.adventuremountainclub.com/new/nepal_trekking/manaslu_region/manaslu_circuit.php|archive-date= 2010-03-17}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://travel.lumbinimedia.com/2017/01/manaslu-region-trekking.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170201090311/http://travel.lumbinimedia.com/2017/01/manaslu-region-trekking.html|url-status=usurped|archive-date=February 1, 2017|title=Manaslu Region Trekking|publisher=Lumbini Media}}</ref>

The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The popular Manaslu trekking route of {{convert|177|km|mi}} skirts the Manaslu massif over the pass down to Annapurna. The Nepalese Government only permitted trekking on this circuit in 1991.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Aryal|first1=Rakesh|title=Trekking Permission|url=https://www.aroundmanaslutrek.com/|website=Around Manaslu Trek|publisher=Around Manaslu Trek P. Ltd|ref=Around Manaslu Trek}}</ref> The trekking trail follows [[Tibet–Nepal salt trade route|an ancient salt-trading route]] along the [[Budhi Gandaki River]]. En route, 10 peaks over {{convert|6500|m|ft|0}} are visible, including a few over {{convert|7000|m|ft|0}}. The highest point reached along the trek route is [[Larkya La]] at an elevation of {{convert|5106|m|ft|0}}. As of May 2008, the mountain has been climbed 297 times with 53 fatalities.<ref name=k2news/><ref name=Reynolds/><ref name=8000ers>{{cite web|url=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=190|title=Statistics for Manaslu|access-date=2010-04-17|publisher=8000ers.com}}</ref>{{Update inline|date=May 2017}}

The Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) was established in 1997 with the primary objective of achieving conservation and sustainable management of the delimited area, which also 
includes Manaslu.<ref name=mcap/>

==General==
Set in the northern [[Himalayan range]] in the [[Gorkha District]] of Nepal, Manaslu is a serrated "wall of snow and ice hanging in the sky".<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nepaltrekhub.com/manaslu-trek|title=wall of snow and ice|access-date=2019-08-16}}</ref> The three sides of the mountain fall in steps to terraces down below, which are sparsely inhabited with agricultural operations practiced on the land. Apart from climbing Manaslu, trekking is popular in this mountain region, as part of the [[Manaslu Circuit]], a notable path for trekkers in Nepal.<ref name=Reynolds>Reynolds, pp. 11–15</ref>

The [[Manaslu Conservation Area]], declared as such in December 1998 under the National Parks and Wild Life Conservation Act, subsumes Manaslu within it. The area covered under the conservation zone is {{convert|1663|km2|mi2}} and is managed by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) of Nepal. The status of  "conservation area"  applied to the Manaslu area or region was with the basic objective of "To conserve and sustainable management of the natural resources and rich cultural heritage and to promote ecotourism to improve the livelihood of the local people in the MCA region."<ref name=mcap/>

Manaslu Himal, as it is popularly known among trekkers, provides views of the snow-covered mountains of the Himalayas and allows close interaction with the different ethnic groups who live in hill villages scattered along the trek route.<ref name=r9>Reynolds, p. 9</ref>

The trekking route is through mountainous terrain prone to the consequences of monsoon rainfall, landslides, and landfalls. [[Hypothermia]] and [[altitude sickness]], as well as encounters with passing [[yak]]s, are common. Trekking to Manaslu is thus a test of endurance.<ref name=r8>Reynolds, p. 8</ref>

==Geography==
[[File:Manaslu, from base camp trip.jpg|thumb|Manaslu from base camp]]
[[File:Manaslu range.jpg|thumb|Manaslu range]]
The region, which is also termed the [[Manaslu Conservation Area]], comprises sub-tropical Himalayan foothills to arid Trans-Himalayan high pastures bordering [[Tibet]]. Starting from Arughat and extending into the Larkhe La pass, the area covers six climatic zones: the tropical and sub-tropical zone, elevation varies from {{convert|1000|-|2000|m|ft}}; the temperate zone (within elevation range of {{convert|2000|-|3000|m|ft}}; the sub-alpine zone elevation range of {{convert|3000|-|4000|m|ft}}; the alpine zone, a range of {{convert|4000|-|5000|m|ft}}) meadows; and the arctic zone (lying above {{convert|4500|m|ft}}). The zones coalesce with the variation of the altitude from about {{convert|600|m|ft}} in the tropical zone to the {{convert|8156|m|ft}} summit of Manaslu in the arctic zone.<ref name=summit/><ref name=r11>Reynolds, p. 11</ref><ref name=conserve>{{cite web|url=http://www.dnpwc.gov.np/index.php/page/39 |title=Manaslu Conservation area |access-date=2010-04-13 |publisher=Department of National parks and Wild Life Conservation |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140425213901/http://www.dnpwc.gov.np/index.php/page/39 |archive-date=2014-04-25 }}</ref>

[[File:Manaslu (8,163m).jpg|thumb|The morning view of Manaslu from Samagoan Village]]
Manaslu is known in the [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan language]] as "Kutan l", in which "tang" means the Tibetan word for a flat place. It is a very large peak with an elevation of {{convert|8156|m|ft}} (the world's eighth-highest mountain). In view of its favorable topography of long ridges and glacial valleys, Manaslu offers several routes to mountaineers. Important peaks surrounding Manaslu include [[Ngadi Chuli]], [[Himalchuli]] and Baudha. A glacial saddle known as [[Larkya La]], with an elevation of {{convert|5106|m|ft}}, lies north of Manaslu. The peak is bounded on the east by the [[Ganesh Himal]] and the [[Buri Gandaki River]] gorge, on the west by the deep fissures of the Marysyangdi Khola with its Annapurna range of hills, and to the south is the [[Gurkha|Gorkha town]] at the foot of the hill (from where trekking operates during the season), which is an aerial distance of {{convert|48|km|mi}} to the peak. There are six established trek routes to the peak, and the south face is reportedly the most difficult for climbing.<ref name=summit/><ref name=r11/>

===Climate===

The permanent snow line is reckoned above {{convert|5000|m|ft}} elevation. Precipitation in the area is both from snowfall and rainfall; the average annual rainfall is about {{convert|1900|mm|in}}, mostly during the monsoon period, which extends from June to September. The temperatures in the area also vary widely with the climatic zone: in the subtropical zone, the average summer and winter temperatures vary in the range of {{convert|31|-|34|C|F}} and {{convert|8|-|13|C|F}} respectively; in the temperate climatic zone, the summer temperatures are {{convert|22|-|25|C|F}} and winter temperatures are {{convert|-2|-|6|C|F}} when snow and frost are also experienced; in the [[subalpine zone]], during December to May snowfall generally occurs and the mean annual temperature is {{convert|6|-|10|C|F}}. The Arctic zone is distinct and falls within the permanent snow line; there, the temperatures lie much below freezing.<ref name=conserve/>

====Major peaks====

[[File:Manaslu Himal air view.jpg|thumb|right|Major peaks of Mansiri Himal range (left to right): Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli]]
There are other major peaks in the region, namely [[Himalchuli]] ({{cvt|7893|disp=or|m||}}), [[Ngadi Chuli]] ({{cvt|7871|m|disp=or||}}), Shringi ({{cvt|7187|m|disp=or||}}), Langpo ({{cvt|6668|m|disp=or||}}) and Saula ({{cvt|6235|m|disp=or||}}).<ref name="Project Proposal for Manaslu Conservation Area"/>

== Ecosystem ==
===Fauna===
Unlike many other regions, this valley is a sanctuary to many highly endangered animals, including [[snow leopard]]s and [[red panda]]s. Other mammals include [[lynx]], [[Asian black bear]], grey wolf, [[dhole]], [[Assam macaque]], [[Himalayan musk deer]], [[Himalayan blue sheep|blue sheep]], [[Himalayan tahr]], [[mainland serow]], [[Himalayan goral]], [[woolly hare]], [[horseshoe bat]], [[Himalayan mouse-hare]], and [[black-lipped pika]].<ref name="Project Proposal for Manaslu Conservation Area">{{cite book |last=Shah |first=Karan Bahadur |title=Project Proposal for Manaslu Conservation Area |display-authors=etal}}</ref> Over 110 species of birds, 33 mammals, 11 butterflies, and 3 reptiles have been recorded.<ref name=conserve/><ref name=diversity/> Conservation of wildlife in the area has been achieved by monks of the monasteries in the area by putting a hunting ban in place. This action has helped wildlife to prosper. The area is now an important habitat for the snow leopard, grey wolf, musk deer, blue sheep, and the Himalayan tahr.<ref name=mcap/>

Some 110 species of birds have been identified in the area, including golden eagle, [[Eurasian griffon]], [[Himalayan griffon]], [[blood pheasant|blood]], [[impeyan pheasant|impeyan]], [[kalij pheasant|kalij]] and [[koklass pheasant]]s, Himalayan and Tibetan [[snow cock]]s, and the [[crimson horned pheasant]].<ref name="Project Proposal for Manaslu Conservation Area"/>

===Vegetation===
Three main categories of vegetation have been identified in the area. These are categorized on the basis of altitude as low hill, middle mountain, and high mountain types with exclusive types of dominant forests and other associated species. The types of vegetation, however, tend to overlap the adjoining ones at places. Depending on the microclimate and other aspects, an overlap of vegetation is noticed in adjacent areas. However, the forest types are fairly well-defined. The flora in different forest types also does not show much variation. The valley basin has a rich [[ecotone]] diversity and includes nineteen different types of forests, most prominently [[rhododendron]], and also Himalayan blue pine, which is flanked by [[Ganesh Himal]] and the Sringi ranges. Medicinal herbs and aromatic plants have also been recorded in different forest types and adjoining vegetation. Overall, the presence of 19 types of forests and other forms of dominant vegetation have been recorded from the area.<ref name=conserve/><ref name=diversity/> An estimated 1,500–2,000 plant species grow here.<ref name="Project Proposal for Manaslu Conservation Area"/>

==Ethnic groups==
There are two ethnicities mainly inhabiting this region; [[Nubri]] and Tsum. The branching off of the river at Chhikur divides these two ethnic domains. While Nubri has been frequently visited since Nepal opened itself for tourism in 1950, Tsum still retains much of its traditional culture, art, and tradition. In the central hills of the region, [[Gurung]]s are the main ethnic group who have joined the [[Brigade of Gurkhas]] in large numbers. Closer to Tibet, the [[Bhutias]] (also spelled Bhotias), akin to the [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] group, of Tibetan ethnicity dominate the scene as can be discerned from their flat-roofed houses, and they are distinctly Buddhists. The region is dotted with [[Asceticism|austere]] [[monasteries]], [[mani stone|mani walls]], [[stupa|chortens]] and other [[Buddhist]] religious landmarks.

==Climbing history==
[[File:Climber Summit Manaslu 8163m.jpg|thumb|Climber approaching the summit of Manaslu]]
In 1950, [[H. W. Tilman]] was the first European to lead an expedition to the [[Annapurna|Annapurna Range]] with a small party of five compatriots. They walked on foot from the [[Kathmandu valley]] (six days of trekking from the valley), and using [[Manang]] as their base camp they started exploring the mountain ranges, peaks, and valleys of the Annapurna massif. During this exploration, while making a reconnaissance of the higher reaches of the Dudh Khola, they clearly saw Manaslu from Bumtang. Three months later, after their aborted trip to [[Annapurna IV]], Tilman, accompanied by Major [[J. O. M. Roberts]], trekked to Larkya La pass and from there saw Manaslu and its plateau and concluded that there was a direct route to the summit, although they did not make an attempt on it.<ref name=r13_14>Reynolds, pp. 13–14</ref>

After the reconnaissance visit by Tilman, there were four [[Japan]]ese expeditions between 1950 and 1955 that explored the possibility of climbing Manaslu by the north and east faces.<ref name=Messner>Messner, p. 32</ref>

In 1952, a Japanese reconnaissance party visited the area after the [[monsoon]] season. In the following year (1953), a team of 15 climbers led by Y. Mita, after setting up base camp at Samagaon, attempted to climb via the east side but failed to reach the summit. In this first attempt by a Japanese team to summit via the northeast face, three climbers reached a height of {{convert|7750|m|ft}}, before turning back.<ref name=r11_12>Reynolds, pp. 11–12</ref>

In 1954, a Japanese team approaching the Buri Gandaki route to the peak faced a hostile group of villagers at Samagaon camp. The villagers thought that the previous expeditions had displeased the gods, causing the avalanches that destroyed the Pung-gyen Monastery and the death of 18 people. As a result of this hostility, the team made a hasty retreat to Ganesh Himal.<ref name=r14>Reynolds, p. 14</ref> To appease local sentiments, a large donation was made to rebuild the monastery. However, this philanthropic act did not ease the atmosphere of distrust and hostility towards Japanese expeditions. Even the expedition in 1956 which successfully climbed the mountain faced this situation and as a result the next Japanese expedition only took place in 1971.<ref name= Mayhew/>

In 1956, Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyaltsen Norbu (Sherpa) made the [[first ascent]] of Manaslu on May 9, 1956.<ref name=hj_1957/> The Japanese expedition was led by [[Maki Yūkō]], also known as Aritsune Maki.<ref name=NepalFF2018_FA/>

In 1956, [[David Snellgrove]], a noted scholar in [[Tibetan culture]] and [[Tibetan Buddhism|religion]], undertook a seven-month sojourn of mid-west and central Nepal. The route that he followed, accompanied by three Nepalese people, was via Bumtang and Buri Gandaki river and crossing over to the Larkya La.<ref name=r14/>

===1970s===
The next successful climb to the summit of Manaslu was in 1971. On May 17, 1971, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of an 11-man Japanese team, reached the summit via the north-west spur.<ref name=k2news/> Also in 1971, Kim Ho-sup led a [[Korea]]n expedition attempt via the north-east face. Kim Ki-sup fell to his death on May 4.<ref name=k2news/> In 1972, the south-west face was climbed for the first time by [[Reinhold Messner]] as part of an [[Austria]]n expedition.<ref name="aaj_1973_south"/><ref name=k2news/> In 1972, the Koreans attempted the north-east face. On April 10, an [[avalanche]] buried their camp at {{convert|6500|m|ft}}, killing fifteen climbers including ten [[Sherpa people|Sherpas]] and the Korean expedition leader Kim Ho-sup,<ref name="aaj_1973"/> and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan.<ref name=k2news/>  On April 22, 1973, Gerhard Schmatz, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber reached the summit via the north-east face. In the same year, a Spanish expedition led by Jaume Garcia Orts could reach only to {{convert|6100|m|ft}}.<ref name=k2news/> The first Japanese women expedition led by Kyoko Sato was successful on May 4, 1974,<ref>{{cite journal |author=Naoko Nakaseko (Translation by [[Ichiro Yoshizawa]]) |title=Japanese women's expedition – Manaslu 1974 |journal=[[Alpine Journal]] |volume=1975 |pages=94–99 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2094-99%20Nakaseko%20Manaslu.pdf |access-date=21 September 2023 |language=en |quote=... We aimed to make the first ascent of an 8000 metre peak by women and at the same time to put all the climbers on the expedition on to the top. .... . The expedition members were as follows: Kyoko Sato, Mrs Tsune Kuroishi, Mrs Naoko Nakaseko, Michiko Sekita, Mrs Masako Uchida, Mieko Mori, Masako Itakura, Mutsumi Nakajima, Teiko Suzuki, Tomoko lto, Shizu Harada and Naoko Kuribayashi. Captain P. S. Rana was Liaison Officer and Il1a Tsering was Sherpa sirdar. .... Shortly after 5.30pm on 4 May 3 climbers and one Sherpa stood on the summit of Manaslu one by one. 'Yare, Yare' (Here we are at last) was my first impression. ...}}</ref> when all members reached the summit after a failed attempt from the east ridge. They thus became the first women to climb [[Eight-thousander|a peak higher than {{convert|8000|m|ft|0}}]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Voiland |first=Adam |url=https://www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov/features/8000MeterPeaks |title=The Eight-Thousanders |website=Earth Observatory |publisher=[[NASA]] |date=16 December 2013 |access-date=21 September 2023}}</ref> However, one climber died on May 5 when she fell between camps 4 and 5.<ref name=k2news/>
[[File:Manaslu - Thulagi Chuli - Ngadi Chuli.jpg|left|thumb|Manaslu (L), Thulagi (M), Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, R)]]

===1980s===
In the pre-monsoon period of 1980, a South Korean team led by Li In-jung reached the summit via the normal route, which was the eighth ascent to the peak.<ref name=Messner/> The year 1981 marked several expeditions: the largest contingent of 13 climbers of a team organized by the Sport-Eiselin of Zurich led by H. V. Kaenel, made it to the summit along the normal route; in autumn, French mountaineers opened a new route, a variation of the west face route; and a Japanese team, led by Y. Kato, made an ascent via the normal route.<ref name=Messner/> In 1983, two climbers from [[Yugoslavia]], trying to climb the peak from the south face, were buried under an [[avalanche]]. One of them was [[Nejc Zaplotnik]], a notable climber of Slovenian origin. A Korean team reached the summit in the autumn of the same year. A German team led by G. Harter was successful in climbing the peak via the south face, which followed the "1972 Tyrolean Route".<ref name=Messner/>

On May 10, 1983, four men from the Joint Services East Nepal Expedition made the first British ascent of Manaslu North using a totally new route, special permission from the Nepalese Government having been granted to access an area normally denied to Europeans; the team was led by Major Douglas Keelan of the Royal Marines and included members from the Royal Navy, Royal Air Force and Royal Marines.<ref>Joint Services postal cover RAF(AC)6</ref>

During the winter of 1983–84, a [[Poland|Polish]] team led by L. Korniszewski successfully followed the Tyrolean Route.  On January 12, 1984, [[Maciej Berbeka]] and [[Ryszard Gajewski]] of that expedition made the first winter ascent via the normal route.<ref name=NepalFF2018_WFA/><ref name=aaj_1984_fwa/>

In the spring season of 1984, a Yugoslav team led by A. Kunaver climbed the peak via the south face. During the same year, in autumn, Polish teams climbed the south ridge and south-east face.<ref name=Messner/>

On November 9, 1986, [[Jerzy Kukuczka]], [[Artur Hajzer]], and Carlos Carsolio made the first climb of the east summit (7894 m) of Manaslu.<ref name=summit/> The next day, Kukuczka and Hajzer reached the summit via a new route, ascending the east ridge and descending the north-east face.<ref name=Messner/>

===1990s===
On May 2, 1993, Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Floßmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr. Michael Leuprecht reached the summit via the normal route and descended on skis from {{convert|7000|m|ft}} to the basecamp. The [[Austria]]n expedition was led by Arthur Haid.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.manaslu.at|title=1993 Tyrolean Ski Expedition}}</ref> On December 8, 1995, [[Anatoli Boukreev]] summited Manaslu with the Second [[Kazakhstan]] Himalaya Expedition. On May 12, 1996, [[Carlos Carsolio]] and his younger brother Alfredo, reached the summit of Manaslu. For Carsolio it was his fourteenth and final [[eight-thousander]], becoming the fourth person in history and the youngest to achieve the feat.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.clubalpinomexicano.com.mx/estadisticas.htm |title=Estadishcas |access-date=2010-04-13 |publisher=Climb Alpino Mexicano |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100315112030/http://www.clubalpinomexicano.com.mx/estadisticas.htm |archive-date=March 15, 2010 }}</ref> In 1997, [[Charlie Mace]] made the first [[United States|American]] ascent.<ref name=k2news/>

===2000s===
During the spring of 2000, there were four expeditions to Manaslu. One climb was on the east face by the 'Japan 2000 Expedition' led by Yoshio Maruyama. The other three were on the north-east ridge: the ETB 2000 Expedition of Spain led by Felix Maria I. Iriate; the 2000 Korean Manaslu Expedition of Korea led by Han Wang Yong; and the Manaslu 2000 Expedition from Italy led by Franco Brunello.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/manaslu1.htm|title=Manaslu 2000|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref> On May 22, 2001, a three-member team of [[Ukraine]] Himalaya 2001 Expedition comprising Serguiy Kovalov, Vadim Leontiev and [[Vladislav Terzyul]] successfully summited Manaslu via the challenging south-east face; all climbed without oxygen support. During the autumn of 2001, three members and a sherpa of the Japan Workers Alpine Federation climbed the peak via the north-east face on October 9, 2001.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/man2001.htm|title= Manaslu 2001 News and Expeditions|publisher=k2news.com|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref>

On May 13, 2002, five Americans, Tom Fitzsimmons, Jerome Delvin, Michael McGuffin, Dan Percival and Brian Sato and two Sherpas reached the summit.<ref name=summit/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.everestnews.com/man2002amer.htm|title=2002 American Manaslu Expedition|publisher=EverestNews.com|access-date=2014-01-14}}</ref>

[[Piotr Pustelnik]] and Krzysztof Tarasewicz climbed Manaslu on May 17, 2003. However, Dariusz Zaluski, Anna Czerwinska and Barbara Drousek, who started the climb after Piotr and Krzysztof, had to turn back due to strong winds and bad weather. With this ascent Pustelnik had summited 12 on his way to summiting the world's 14 highest peaks.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/2003/m03ppdis15.htm|title=Manaslu 2003 featuring Piotr Pustelnik|publisher=Everest News.com|access-date=2010-04-13}}</ref>

On May 29, 2006, [[Australia]]n mountaineer [[Sue Fear]] died after falling into a crevasse on her descent after summiting.<ref>{{Cite news |date=2006-05-30 |title=Family mourns dead climber Sue Fear |url=https://www.abc.net.au/news/2006-05-31/family-mourns-dead-climber-sue-fear/1766514 |access-date=2025-01-03 |work=ABC News |language=en-AU}}</ref>

On December 1, 2006, former [[Formula 1]] driver [[Ukyo Katayama]] achieved his lifetime ambition of climbing Manaslu, after a prior unsuccessful attempt in 2004.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.autosport.com/news/grapevine.php/id/55853|title=Katayama scales Mt. Manaslu|publisher=Autosport.com|date=2006-12-01|access-date =2006-12-01}}</ref>

In 2008, Valerie Parkinson was the first British woman to climb Manaslu.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.project-himalaya.com/8000m-manaslu.html |title=Manaslu Expedition 8163m |publisher=Project Himalaya |access-date=2010-04-13 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100302022911/http://www.project-himalaya.com/8000m-manaslu.html |archive-date=2010-03-02 }}</ref>

===2010s===
In 2011 [[Arjun Vajpai]], an Indian mountaineer, summitted Manaslu on October 5 and became the youngest climber in the world to have summitted Manaslu at the age of 18.<ref name=rediff>{{cite web|url=http://www.rediff.com/news/report/arjun-becomes-youngest-to-scale-8156-m-high-mt-manaslu/20111005.htm|title=Arjun becomes youngest to scale 8,156-m-high Mt Manaslu|date=October 5, 2011|work=rediff.com|access-date=2014-01-14}}</ref>

Eleven climbers were killed in an avalanche on September 23, 2012.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.cnn.com/2012/09/23/world/asia/nepal-avalanche/index.html|title=Avalanche kills climbers at one of world's highest peaks|publisher=CNN|date=September 23, 2012|access-date=2014-01-03}}</ref> American free skier [[Glen Plake]], who had planned to ski down Manaslu without supplemental oxygen, was a survivor.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/14/sports/after-avalanche-record-climb-is-bittersweet.html |title=After Avalanche, Record Climb Is Bittersweet |date=October 13, 2012 |newspaper=The New York Times |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121017005421/https://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/14/sports/after-avalanche-record-climb-is-bittersweet.html |archive-date=2012-10-17 |accessdate=2020-07-19}}</ref>

On September 25, 2014, Polish ski-mountaineer [[Andrzej Bargiel]] set a record time from base camp to summit at 14 hours 5 minutes and also record time for base-peak-base of 21 hours 14 minutes.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?url=speed-on-manaslu-andrzej-bargiels-new-re_141172898|title=Speed on Manaslu: Andrzej Bargiel's New Record|publisher=ExplorersWeb.com|access-date=2014-10-11}}</ref>

=== 2020s ===
[[File:Sheikha_Asma_Al_Thani.jpg|thumb|Sheikha Asma Al Thani]]
In 2021 Qatari mountaineer, [[Asma Al Thani]], summited and became the first Arab to do so without oxygen.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|date=2021-11-10|title=Sheikha Asma Al Thani becomes first Qatari woman to summit Nepal's Mount Ama Dablam|url=https://www.dohanews.co/sheikha-asma-al-thani-becomes-first-qatari-woman-to-summit-nepals-mount-ama-dablam/|access-date=2022-01-06|website=Doha News {{!}} Qatar|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2021-09-28|title=Sheikha Asma: first Arab woman to climb 8,000er without oxygen|url=https://gulf-times.com/story/701293|access-date=2022-01-06|website=Gulf-Times|language=ar}}</ref>

On the morning of September 26, 2022, an avalanche struck the route 24,000&nbsp;ft., just below Camp IV at Mount Manaslu, enveloping 13 climbers which also killed Nepali guide Anup Rai. The climbers were ferrying logistics to the high camps before their summit push.<ref>{{cite news |title=Indian climber among injured as avalanche hits Nepal's Mt Manaslu |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/world/indian-climber-among-injured-as-avalanche-hits-nepals-mt-manaslu-8174950/ |work=The Indian Express |date=27 September 2022 |language=en}}</ref> On the same day, American ski mountaineer [[Hilaree Nelson]] fell down more than 1,800 metres (6,000&nbsp;ft) from the summit of Mount Manaslu while skiing with her partner, Jim Morrison.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/hilaree-nelson-missing-manaslu-deadly-avalance/ |title=Hilaree Nelson is Missing on Manaslu After a Deadly Day on the Mountain |date=26 September 2022 }}</ref> On September 28 her body was located above the Thulagi glacier on the south-west face of Mount Manaslu and was flown to Kathmandu by rescuers.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/missing-ski-mountaineer-hilaree-nelson-found-dead |title=Missing ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson found dead
|date=September 28, 2022 |work=[[The Himalayan Times]] |place=Kathmandu |access-date=2022-10-03}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last1=Sharma |first1=Bhadra |last2=Schmall |first2=Emily |date=2022-09-28 |title=U.S. Mountaineer's Body Found Two Days After Avalanche on Peak in Nepal |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/28/world/asia/hilaree-nelson-death-avalanche.html |accessdate=2022-10-05 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref>

On January 6, 2023, Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon, along with six sherpa climbers, made a successful winter ascent of Mount Manaslu, which had not been summited in winter in over 20 years.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://mteveresttoday.com/manaslu-winter-summit/|title=Manaslu winter summit |date=6 January 2023 |access-date=2023-01-06}}</ref>

On September 23, 2023, Nawal Sfendla became the first Moroccan to summit Manaslu.<ref>{{Cite web |date=25 September 2023 |title=Nawal Sfendla Becomes First Moroccan to Conquer Nepal's Manaslu Summit |url=https://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2023/09/357890/nawal-sfendla-becomes-first-moroccan-to-conquer-nepals-manaslu-summit |access-date=12 January 2024 |website=Morocco World News}}</ref>

===Risk===
Traditionally, the "spring" or " pre-monsoon" season is the least hazardous for bad weather, snowfall, and avalanches. Manaslu is one of the more risky 8000ers to climb: as of May 2008, there have been 297 ascents of Manaslu and [[List of deaths on eight-thousanders#Manaslu|53 deaths on the mountain]],<ref name=8000ers/> making it "the 4th most dangerous 8000m peak, behind [[Annapurna]], [[Nanga Parbat]], and [[K2]]."<ref name=summit/>

====Avalanches====
*2012 September: Nine people were killed and several went missing. The dead included Nepali, a Spanish and four French nationals. Five climbers were rescued after the avalanche.<ref>{{Cite news| title = Himalayas avalanche sweeps away climbers in Nepal| work = BBC News| accessdate = 2022-10-05| date = 2012-09-23| url = https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-19691512}}</ref>
*2022 September 26: Anup Rai, a Nepali mountain guide, died in the avalanche while ferrying loads to Camp IV.
*2022 October 1: An avalanche on the lower flanks of the mountain killed Nepali guide Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, who had been descending from Camp 2 to Camp 1.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Dreier |first=Fred |date=2022-10-03 |title=Avalanches Killed Another Climber on Manaslu |url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/manaslu-avalanche-death/ |access-date=2022-10-16 |website=Outside Online |language=en-US}}</ref>

===Verification issues===
Manaslu has been identified as being one of the most problematic eight-thousanders for summit verification. Like [[Shishapangma]], Manaslu has a false summit that is separated from the true summit by a long and dangerous sharp corniced ridge.<ref name=NYT1>{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/tallest-mountain-summit.html | title=Only 44 people have reached the summit of all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, according to the people who chronicle such things. | first=John | last=Branch | date=21 May 2021 | accessdate=10 December 2021 | newspaper=[[New York Times]] | author-link=John Branch (journalist)}}</ref>  In 2021, an investigation by a team of international experts reported in the ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'' that the vast majority of climbers who claimed to have summited Manaslu had not in fact stood on the true peak.<ref name=AAJ1>{{cite aaj | date =June 2021 | first=Damien | last=Gildea | article_id=13201215692 | access-date=10 December 2021 | title=THE 8000-ER MESS | volume=62 | issue=94 | author-link=Damien Gildea}}</ref>

==Trekking in the region==
[[File:Manaslu (1).jpg|thumb|right]]
The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The [[Manaslu Circuit]] Trek now usually starts in [[Arughat Bazaar]] and ends two to three weeks later in [[Besisahar]], the starting point of the [[Annapurna Circuit]] Trek. Until recently the trek required camping, but building of tea-houses means the trek can be completed using local accommodation. The trek requires a Manaslu Restricted Area Permit and Manaslu Conservation Area Permit. The restricted area permit costs $100 US per week in autumn and $70 US per week in other seasons, whereas the conservation area permit costs a straight $30 US.{{cn|date=September 2024}} Trekkers are required to travel in a group of at least two persons with a registered guide. The trek lies on the newly developed [[Great Himalaya Trail]].{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}

The best season to hike the circuit is spring (March, April, or May), just before the monsoon season begins. During this period, you can expect dry trails, stable weather, excellent visibility, and long trekking days. Similarly, autumn (September, October, and November) is another good season for the circuit, following the monsoon season.

The trek follows an ancient [[Tibet-Nepal salt trade route|salt-trading route]] along the steep sided Budhi Gandaki river. From Deng, the slopes of ravines ease and views of snow peaks start appearing from Ligaon (Lhi). Further from Lhogaon (Lho), an impressive view of Manaslu, with its [[double peak]], appears described as "a soaring monarch with a double-edged summit towering above fields of barley."<ref name="r11_12" />

[[File:Manaslu circuit trek.jpg|thumb|left|Manaslu circuit trek]]
The route follows the pine-forested Syala village, which has the backdrop of many horseshoe-shaped peaks, and reaches the village of Samagaon (Sama) at the foot of Manaslu. There is a Buddhist monastery at Samagaon, where monks and nuns reside. After half a day's trek from Samagaon, the village of Samdo is reached. Samdo is the highest village in the Budhi Gandaki valley and is inhabited by [[Bhutias|Bhotias]]. This village commands a view of the valley and Pang Phuchi village with a backdrop of the Tibetan border. Further trekking leads along a major secondary valley to the Larkha La (Larkja La). Along this route, Cheo Himal, Himlung Himal ([[Nemjung]]) and [[Kang Guru]] are seen, along with occasional views of the [[Annapurna Massif]]. From here, the meadowland of Bimtang (Bimdakhoti) at elevation {{convert|1500|m|ft}} is reached, from where Manaslu is clearly visible. From Manaslu, the circuit passes through Dudh Khola (a tributary of [[Marshyangdi]] river), criss-crosses Marsyangdi River before reaching [[Bhulbule]], [[Tarukha Ghat]], crosses the Chepe Khola and Dorandi Khola before returning to Gorkha.<ref name=r11_12/>

Two alternative routes are also popular. One is on the Annapurna Circuit trail but leaves it at Dharapani to reach [[Manang]], crossing [[Thorong La]] and [[Jomsom]] ([[Kali Gandaki]] valley). From [[Jomsom]] flights depart to [[Pokhara]]. The other alternative route is from Bhulbule, crossing Marsyangdi to Khudi, divert from Annapurna trail and trek cross country through valleys and ridges to [[Sisuwa]] town on the bank of [[Begnas Tal]]. From here a road approach is available to Pokhara.<ref name=r13>Reynolds, p. 13</ref>

When trekking through the Manaslu region, ten peaks of over {{convert|6500|m|ft}} in height are visible, including peaks of over {{convert|7000|m|ft}} elevation. People add [[Tsum Valley]] and the [[Ganesh Himal]] Base Camp as acclimatization trips before going on expeditions through the high passes. The Tsum region, which was restricted for tourists for a long time, is now the centre of attraction for trekkers, with the government of Nepal recently opening it for group tourists. In order to retain its pristine culture and sustain its fragile ecosystem, the Tsum Welfare Committee is involved in the promotion of responsible tourism in Tsum. However, local participation for [[sustainable tourism]] is still a challenging task with a long road ahead.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.tsumvalley.org|title=Tsum Welfare Committee|access-date=2010-04-12}}</ref>

==Area development project==
Under loan funds provided by the [[Asian Development Bank]], the government of Nepal has an infrastructure project titled "Manaslu Eco-tourism Development Project" under implementation. The objective is to improve the capacity of the Manaslu area to support tourism in an environmentally benign manner.<ref name=mcap/>

==Gallery==
<gallery>
File:Manaslu-larke-pass.jpg|Larke pass way
File:Manaslu-mountain-nepal.jpg|Manaslu, Nepal
File:Manaslu-sunrise.jpg|Manaslu after sunrise
File:Mt.manaslu-morning.jpg|Manaslu before sunrise
</gallery>

==See also==
*[[List of mountains in Nepal]]
*[[List of deaths on eight-thousanders#Manaslu|List of deaths on Manaslu]]

==References==
=== General sources ===
* {{cite web | url = https://nepalindata.com/media/resources/items/12/bFactAndFigure2018.pdf | website = Nepal in Data
   | title = Mountaineering in Nepal Facts and Figures 2018 | date = June 2018 | access-date = 2019-12-23
   | publisher = Government of Nepal | department = Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation | location = Kathmandu
   | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20191223221831/https://nepalindata.com/media/resources/items/12/bFactAndFigure2018.pdf
   | archive-date = 2019-12-23 | url-status = live | df = ymd-all}}
* {{cite book |last1=Mayhew |first1=Bradley |first2=Joe |last2=Bindloss |title=Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya |publisher=[[Lonely Planet]] |year=2009
  | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=yXdzC7ZsOc4C&q=Manaslu+Expeditons+in+2009&pg=PA326 |access-date=2010-04-15 |isbn=978-1-74104-188-0}}
* {{cite book |last=Messner |first=Reinhold |title=All 14 Eight-Thousanders |year=1999 |publisher=The Mountaineers Books 
  | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xUDVnwmLqDQC&q=Manaslu&pg=PA32 |access-date=2010-04-14 |isbn=978-0-89886-660-5}}
* {{cite book |last=Reynolds |first=Kev|author-link=Kev Reynolds |title=Manaslu: A Trekker's Guide |chapter=Introduction |year=2000
  | publisher=[[Cicerone Press]] |location=[[Milnthorpe]]
  | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m6_Gso398j8C&q=Manaslu |access-date=2013-01-23 |isbn=1-85284-302-0}}

=== Citations ===
{{Reflist|refs=
<ref name="aaj_1973">
  {{cite aaj | year = 1973
   | title = Manaslu, East Face | article_id=12197348401
   | access-date = 2016-11-11 | df = ymd-all
   | department = Climbs And Expeditions
   | page = 484  | volume = 18 | issue = 2}}</ref>
<!-- The original reference for aaj_1973
  {{cite web|url=http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1973/asia1973_478-505.pdf |format=PDF |title=American Alpine Journal |year=1973 |url-status=dead
   | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070927212725/http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1973/asia1973_478-505.pdf |archive-date=September 27, 2007 }}</ref> -->
<ref name="aaj_1973_south">
  {{cite aaj | year = 1973
   | title = Manaslu, South Face  | article_id=12197348402
   | access-date = 2016-11-11 | df = ymd-all
   | department = Climbs And Expeditions | links=off
   | page = 484  | volume = 18 | issue = 2}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_1984_fwa>
  {{cite aaj | year = 1984 | article_id=12198424902
   | title =  Manaslu, Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1984 | author = Korniszewski, Lech
   | access-date = 2019-12-23 | df = ymd-all
   | department = Climbs And Expeditions | links=off
   | pages = 249–250  }}</ref>
<ref name=mcap>
  {{cite web | title=Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) 
   | url=https://ntnc.org.np/project/manaslu-conservation-area-project-mcap 
   | access-date=2019-12-23 | url-status = live
   | publisher=National Trust for Nature Conservation 
   | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190603073751/https://ntnc.org.np/project/manaslu-conservation-area-project-mcap
   | archive-date=2019-06-03  |df=ymd-all }}</ref>
<ref name=diversity>
  {{cite web
 |url=http://biodiversityofnepal.icimod.org/species_List/tree_Function.asp?treefile=Manaslu$$Conservation$$Area 
 |title=Biodiversity of Nepal 
 |access-date=2010-04-13 
 |publisher=Biodiversity of Nepal 
 |url-status=dead 
 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080322075456/http://biodiversityofnepal.icimod.org/species_List/tree_Function.asp?treefile=Manaslu%24%24Conservation%24%24Area 
 |archive-date=2008-03-22 
}}</ref>
<ref name=hj_1957>
  {{cite journal | journal = The Himalayan Journal | year = 1957 | title = The Ascent of Manaslu
   | url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/20/2/the-ascent-of-manaslu/
   | publisher = Himalayan Club | volume = 20 | access-date = 2016-11-11}}</ref>
<ref name=k2news>
  {{cite web|url=http://www.k2news.com/manaslufacts.htm|title= Manaslu Facts and History|access-date=2010-04-10|publisher=K2 News}}</ref>
<ref name=NepalFF2018>
  {{citation | title = Mountaineering in Nepal Facts and Figures | page = 170}}</ref>
<ref name=NepalFF2018_FA>
  {{citation | title = Mountaineering in Nepal Facts and Figures | page = 221}}</ref>
<ref name=NepalFF2018_WFA>
  {{citation | title = Mountaineering in Nepal Facts and Figures | page = 222}}</ref>
<ref name="peaklist">
  {{cite web|url=http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/everest.html|title=High Asia II: Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet
   | publisher=Peaklist.org|access-date=2014-05-29}}</ref>
}}

==Further reading==
* [https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/20/2/the-ascent-of-manaslu/ "The ascent of Manaslu"]. Maki, Yuko and Imanishi, T. (1957).  ''Himalayan Journal'' (20).  Accessed 2011-12-28.
* Maki, Aritsune (1956). ''The ascent of Manaslu''. Mainichi, Tokyo.
* Maki, Aritsune, ed. (1957). ''Manaslu: For Boys and Girls''. Mainichi, Tokyo.
* Yoda, Takayoshi (1956). ''The Ascent of Manaslu in Photographs''. Mainichi-Newspapers, Tokyo.

==External links==
{{sister project links|voy=Manaslu|auto=1}}
* [http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20manaslu_himal.htm Manaslu on Himalaya-Info.org (German)]

{{Eight-thousander}}
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[[Category:Eight-thousanders of the Himalayas]]
[[Category:Mountains of the Gandaki Province]]
[[Category:Mountain ranges of Nepal]]