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Marimekko
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{{Short description|Finnish clothing and home furnishings company}} {{Use dmy dates|date=September 2019}} {{for|the statistical graphic|Marimekko chart}} {{expand Finnish|date=June 2023}} {{Infobox company |name =Marimekko Corporation |native_name = ''Marimekko Oyj'' |logo =Marimekko_logo.svg |logo_size =250px |logo_alt =Logo of Marimekko |logo_caption =Logo since 1954 |image =Marimekko-Herttoniemi.jpg |image_caption =Head office |type =[[Public company|Public]] (''[[Julkinen osakeyhtiö]]'') |traded_as ={{ubl|{{OMX|HEX24304|MEKKO}}|{{LSE|0JX9}}|{{OTC Pink|type=limited|MKKOF}}}} | ISIN = {{ISIN|sl=n|pl=y|FI0009007660}} |industry =[[Textile industry|Textiles]]<br />[[Clothing industry|Clothing]]<br />Home furnishings<br />[[Retail]] |founded ={{Start date and age|1951|5|25|df=yes}} in [[Helsinki]], Finland |founders =Viljo Ratia<br />[[Armi Ratia]]<br />[[Riitta Immonen]] |hq_location_city =Helsinki |hq_location_country=Finland |num_locations =153 stores (2022)<ref name="Finacial_Statements_Bulletin_2022"/><ref name="Sales_and_stores">{{Cite web |title=Sales and stores |work=Marimekko |access-date=27 August 2023 |url=https://company.marimekko.com/en/investors/business-operations/sales-and-stores/ }}</ref> |area_served =Worldwide |key_people ={{interlanguage link|Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko|fi}} ([[CEO]])<br />{{interlanguage link|Mika Ihamuotila|fi}} ([[Chairman]])<br />[[Maija Isola]] ([[Designer]])<br />{{nowrap|[[Vuokko Nurmesniemi]] ([[Designer]])}} |revenue ={{increase}} €166.5 million (2022)<ref name="Finacial_Statements_Bulletin_2022">{{Cite web |title=Financial Statements Bulletin 2022 |work=Marimekko |access-date=27 August 2023 |url=https://ml-eu.globenewswire.com/Resource/Download/2d7e5491-b1b5-4167-bb8e-070880272844 }}</ref><ref name="Marimekko's_year_2022"/> |operating_income ={{decrease}} €30.4 million (2022)<ref name="Finacial_Statements_Bulletin_2022"/><ref name="Marimekko's_year_2022"/> |net_income ={{decrease}} €22.7 million (2022)<ref name="Finacial_Statements_Bulletin_2022"/><ref name="Marimekko's_year_2022"/> |num_employees ={{increase}} 459 (31 December 2022)<ref name="Finacial_Statements_Bulletin_2022"/><ref name="Marimekko's_year_2022">{{Cite web |title=Marimekko's year 2022 |work=Marimekko |access-date=27 August 2023 |url=https://company.marimekko.com/app/uploads/2023/03/Marimekkos-year-2022.pdf }}</ref> |website ={{URL|https://www.marimekko.com|marimekko.com}} }} '''Marimekko Corporation''' ({{Langx|fi|Marimekko Oyj}})<ref name="bis_marimekko">{{cite web |title=Marimekko Oyj |url=https://tietopalvelu.ytj.fi/yritys/0111316-2 |website=Business Information System |publisher=Finnish Patent and Registration Office, Finnish Tax Administration |access-date=11 June 2024 |location=Helsinki}}</ref><ref name="marimekko_articles">{{cite web |title=Marimekko corporation's articles of association |url=https://company.marimekko.com/investors/management/articles-of-association/ |publisher=Marimekko Corporation |access-date=11 June 2024}}</ref> is a [[Finland|Finnish]] textiles, clothing, and home furnishings company founded by Viljo and [[Armi Ratia]] in [[Helsinki]] in 1951. Marimekko made important contributions to [[fashion]] in the 1960s. It is particularly noted for its brightly colored printed fabrics and simple styles, used both in women's garments and in home furnishings. Two designers in particular, [[Vuokko Nurmesniemi]], with bold stripes, and [[Maija Isola]], with large simple flowered prints such as the '''''Unikko''''' [[poppy]], created hundreds of distinctive patterns and helped to make Marimekko a household name across the world. == Etymology == The co-founder, Armi Ratia, first considered ''Armi'' as the company's name, but it was already registered. Her middle name was Maria, shortened to ''Mari''; her husband Viljo thought of different names for women's clothing. In her home town of Koivisto, Armi heard people talking about [[dress]]es ({{langx|fi|mekko}}), and so she came to the name Marimekko.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.city.fi/tyyli/marimekko+story/2565 |title=Marimekko Story |last=Larros |first=Heini |date=2008-02-01 |website=City |language=fi |access-date=2019-10-10}}</ref> == History == === Foundation === [[File:Armi-Ratia-1959.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Finnish entrepreneur [[Armi Ratia]] (1912–1979), co-founder of Marimekko.]] [[File:1960s-70s Marimekko garments on display 01.jpg|thumb|1960s Marimekko dresses using Maija Isola prints]] [[File:Marianne Aav Marimekko low-res Cover.jpg|thumb|236px|Marianne Aav's book on Marimekko uses Isola's 1964 ''Unikko'' [[poppy]] print on the cover.]] [[File:Isola poppy print dress from the 2015 Marimekko Spring Fashion Show Esplanadi Park, Helsinki, 22 March 2015.jpg|thumb|Spring 2015: Model showing a Marimekko dress using Maija Isola's 1964 'Unikko' (Poppy) print.]] [[File:11-07-29-helsinki-by-RalfR-054.jpg|thumb|236px|A Marimekko store in Kamppi, Helsinki]] Marimekko was founded in 1951 by Viljo and Armi Ratia, after the Viljo's oil-cloth factory project failed and was converted to a garment plant. Armi asked some artist friends to apply their [[graphic design]]s to [[Textile|textiles]]. To show how the fabric could be used, the company then designed and sold a line of simple dresses using their fabric. When Finland's leading [[industrial design]]er [[Timo Sarpaneva]] invited the company to present a [[fashion show]] (albeit canceled at short notice) at the 1957 [[Triennale]] in [[Milan]], it was an early recognition of fashion as an industrial art and of Marimekko's key role in shaping it to that point. The garments were eventually showcased in the nearby [[La Rinascente|Rinascente]] upscale department store by display manager [[Giorgio Armani]].<ref>{{cite book |author1=Kaj Kalin |author2=Timo Sarpaneva |author2-link=Timo Sarpaneva |author3=Marjatta Svennevig |title=Sarpaneva |publisher=Otava |year=1986 |location=Helsinki |isbn=951-1-07887-9}}</ref> === Pioneering design === Two pioneering designers set the tone for Marimekko: [[Vuokko Nurmesniemi]] in the 1950s and [[Maija Isola]] in the 1960s.{{sfn|Isola|2005}}{{sfn|Fogg|2008}} Nurmesniemi designed the simply striped red and white ''Jokapoika'' shirt in 1956. Isola designed the iconic ''Unikko'' ([[poppy]]) print pattern in 1964.<ref name="MarimekkoHistory">{{cite web |url=https://company.marimekko.com/en/about-marimekko/history/ |title=About Marimekko: History |work=Marimekko |access-date=27 September 2019}}</ref> Marimekko's bold fabrics and bright, simple design strongly influenced late 20th-century taste.{{sfn|Jackson|2007}} Many of the early Marimekko designs, including Isola's ''Unikko'', remain in production in the 2010s.<ref>{{cite news |last=Sisson |first=Patrick |title=Marimekko's pattern of progressive design |url=https://www.curbed.com/2017/4/10/15242790/marimekko-finland-history-fashion-unikko-design |access-date=27 September 2019 |work=Curbed |date=10 April 2017 |language=en}}</ref> === Commercial growth === Marimekko spread to America in the 1960s.<ref>{{cite magazine |author=Lange, Alexandra |url=http://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/jane-jacobs-georgia-okeeffe-and-the-power-of-the-marimekko-dress |title=Jane Jacobs, Georgia O'Keeffe, and the Power of the Marimekko Dress |magazine=The New Yorker |date=23 June 2017 |access-date=25 June 2017}}</ref> It was introduced to the [[United States]] by the architect [[Benjamin C. Thompson]], who featured them in his [[Design Research (store)|Design Research stores]]. They were made famous in the United States by future first lady [[Jacqueline Kennedy]], who bought eight Marimekko dresses which she wore throughout the [[1960 United States presidential election|1960 United States presidential campaign]].<ref name=Guardian>{{cite web |last=Qureshi |first=Huma |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/house-and-homes-blog/2011/sep/20/marimekko-textile-design |work=The Guardian House and Home Blog |title=Marimekko's bid for world domination |date=20 September 2011}}</ref> By 1965, the company employed over 400 staff, and the company was in every aspect of fine design, from fabrics to toys and dinnerware. The firm even completely equipped small houses with furnishings. In 1985, the company was sold to [[Amer Sports|Amer-yhtymä]]. In the early 1990s, Marimekko was in a bad financial condition and close to bankruptcy. It was bought from Amer by [[Kirsti Paakkanen]], who introduced new business methods in the company and helped to revive its popularity.<ref name=Guardian/> Later in the 1990s Marimekko achieved publicity in the hit TV series ''[[Sex and the City]]''. The fictional main character of the series, sex-and-relationship columnist [[Carrie Bradshaw]], wore a Marimekko bikini on [[List of Sex and the City episodes#Season 2 (1999)|season 2]] and then a Marimekko dress. In [[List of Sex and the City episodes#Season 5 (2002)|season 5]] the series introduced tablecloths with Marimekko prints.<ref name=Guardian/> In 2005, Marimekko's revenue had quadrupled since Paakkanen's purchase, and its net income had grown 200-fold. Paakkanen remained CEO of Marimekko and owned 20% of the company via her business Workidea. In 2007, Paakkanen announced she would gradually hand over her ownership to Mika Ihamuotila as CEO and biggest owner of the company. By 2011 there were 84 stores across the world.<ref name=Guardian/> Marimekko products are made in China, India, Thailand, Portugal, Lithuania and other countries. Fabrics are printed in Marimekko's textile factory in Helsinki, but are not made in Finland.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.marimekko.com/se_en/the-brand/printed-in-helsinki |title=Printed in Helsinki |access-date=28 August 2017 |work=Marimekko}}</ref> The company celebrated its 70th anniversary in 2021 by publishing the book ''Marimekko: The Art of Printmaking''.{{sfn|Borrelli-Persson|2021}} == Logo == The logo of Marimekko has been in use since 1954. Armi Ratia wanted the logo to be simple and timeless. Graphic designer Helge Mether-Borgström used modified versions of classic [[Olivetti]] [[typewriter]] letters to create the logo.{{sfn|Aav|2003|p=324}}<ref name="MarimekkoHistory"/> == Reception == Cindy Babski wrote in the ''[[New York Times]]'' that "There was never any doubt about what the inside label would say. The clothes and fabrics, with their striking design and splashes of bold color, were clearly Marimekko. But for people of a certain generation—those who came of age in the 1960s—they represented more than just a brand name: They conjured up an image and an era."<ref>{{cite news |url= https://www.nytimes.com/1988/01/03/business/marimekko-changes-its-spots.html?src=pm |title=Marimekko Changes Its Spots |work =New York Times |date= 3 January 1988 |author= Babski, Cindy |access-date=5 October 2012}}</ref> In 2007, Heidi Avellan wrote in the Swedish newspaper ''[[Sydsvenskan]]'' that Marimekko was no longer a "statement, just as T-shirts with revolutionary [[Che Guevara]] or [[Keffiyeh|Palestinian scarves]] rarely express any political awareness. Marimekko is paper napkins and rubber boots". She wrote that Marimekko "began with the colourfully striped shirt, ''Jokapoika'' which Vuokko Nurmesniemi designed in 1956", which became the symbol for new radicalism in academia.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.sydsvenskan.se/opinion/heidi-avellan/radikala-rander |title=Radikala ränder |trans-title=Radical stripes |work =Sydsvenskan |date=6 August 2007 |access-date=5 October 2012 |author=Avellan, Heidi |language=sv}}</ref> === Plagiarism controversy === In 2013, allegations were raised accusing Marimekko of plagiarism. In house designer Kristina Isola later admitted copying design elements from 1963 painting by Ukrainian artist [[Maria Prymachenko|Maria Primachenko]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2013-05-29 |title=Marimekko designer confesses plagiarism |url=https://yle.fi/a/3-6663700 |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=News |language=en}}</ref> By the time the accusations were raised, the design had been painted on the body of one of [[Finnair]]'s planes, and the [[National Museum of Ukraniain Folk Art]], which held the copyright to Primachenko's design, pursued legal action over the incident.<ref>{{Cite web |last= |first= |date=May 29, 2013 |title=Design firm Marimekko apologises art-copying |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Design-firm-marimekko-apologises-art-copying,332804.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-WW}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last= |date=2013-06-10 |title=National Museum of Ukrainian Folk Art Plans to Take Action over Marimekko Infringement of Folk Artist's Work - Center for Art Law |url=https://itsartlaw.org/2013/06/10/national-museum-of-ukrainian-folk-art-plans-to-take-action-over-marimekko-infringement-of-folk-artists-work/ |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=itsartlaw.org |language=en-US}}</ref> Finnair moved to repaint the plane as quickly as possible.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Ng |first=David |date=2013-05-30 |title=Finnair to remove airplane art after plagiarism charges |url=https://www.latimes.com/entertainment/arts/culture/la-et-cm-finnair-art-plagiarism-20130529-story.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Los Angeles Times |language=en-US}}</ref> After the incident was raised, other works by Marimekko were identified to be alleged to have strong similarities to works previously released by artists Maria Jauhiainen, Markus Lepo and [[Heljä Liukko-Sundström]].<ref>{{Cite web |last= |date=2013-10-03 |title=Plagiarism claims still plauge Marimekko |url=https://www.helsinkitimes.fi/business/7886-plagiarism-claims-still-plaugemarimekko-2.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Helsinki Times |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Nuutinen |first=Anna |date=2013-09-24 |title=Yle: Marimekkoa epäillään jälleen plagioinnista - "Minulle tuli raiskattu olo" |url=https://www.is.fi/kotimaa/art-2000000661839.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Ilta-Sanomat |language=fi}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last1=HS |first1=Tuomo Väliaho |last2=HS |first2=Esa Mäkinen |date=2013-09-25 |title=Vertaa HS:n vaihtokuvassa, onko Marimekon uusi kangas kopio |url=https://www.hs.fi/kulttuuri/art-2000002676613.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Helsingin Sanomat |language=fi}}</ref> Five designs came under suspicion,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Nuutinen |first=Anna |date=2013-09-24 |title=Yle: Marimekkoa epäillään jälleen plagioinnista - "Minulle tuli raiskattu olo" |url=https://www.is.fi/kotimaa/art-2000000661839.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Ilta-Sanomat |language=fi}}</ref> with Marimekko defending against some claims,<ref>{{Cite web |title=Marimekko kiistää plagiointiväitteet, Liukko-Sundström ei suostunut vierailuun |url=https://www.kaleva.fi/marimekko-kiistaa-plagiointivaitteet-liukko-sundst/1751098 |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Kaleva |language=fi}}</ref> and trying to settle others.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Heljä Liukko-Sundström plagiointikohusta: "Marimekon kankaassa tavoiteltu heljämäistä tunnelmaa" |url=https://www.mtvuutiset.fi/artikkeli/helja-liukko-sundstrom-plagiointikohusta-marimekon-kankaassa-tavoiteltu-heljamaista-tunnelmaa/3258286 |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=mtvuutiset.fi |language=fi}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Viskari |first=Jaana |date=2013-09-25 |title=Liukko-Sundström: Marimekko yritti neuvotella kopiointikohun sopimisesta |url=https://www.is.fi/kotimaa/art-2000000662025.html |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Ilta-Sanomat |language=fi}}</ref> In the case of Lepo's design, Marimekko's CEO later apologised for misleading consumers about the originality of the designs.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2013-09-30 |title=Ihamuotila says "sorry" for Marimekko print controversy |url=https://yle.fi/a/3-6856382 |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=News |language=en}}</ref> == References == {{reflist|30em}} == Sources == * {{cite book |last=Aav |first=Marianne |title=Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture |publisher=Yale University Press |date=2003 |isbn=978-0-300-10183-6 }} * {{cite book |last=Borrelli-Persson |first=Laird |title=Marimekko: The Art of Printmaking |publisher=Thames and Hudson |date=2021 |isbn=978-0-5000-2398-3 }} * {{cite book |last=Fogg |first=Marnie |title=1960s Fashion Print: A Sourcebook |publisher=Batsford |date=2008 |isbn=978-0-7134-9054-1 }} ''(6 page-sized illustrations of Isola's prints)'' [https://books.google.com/books?id=ip0nqooDARAC&q=Maija+Isola&pg=PA190 Google Books] * {{cite book |last=Isola |first=Kristina |author-link=Kristina Isola |title=Maija Isola: Life, Art, Marimekko |publisher=Design Museo |date=2005 |isbn=978-952-9878-42-0 }} * {{cite book |last=Jackson |first=Lesley |title=Twentieth Century Pattern Design |publisher=Princeton Architectural Press |date=2007 |isbn=978-1-56898-712-5 }} == Further reading == * {{cite book |last=Cole |first=Drusilla |title=The Pattern Sourcebook: A Century of Surface Design |publisher=Laurence King |date=2009 |isbn=978-1-85669-621-0 |ref=none }} * {{cite book |last=Suhonen |first=Pekko |title=Phenomenon Marimekko |publisher=Marimekko Oy |date=1986 |ref=none }} == External links == * {{Official website|https://www.marimekko.com/}} {{Textile designers}} {{Nasdaq Helsinki}} {{Authority control}} [[Category:Finnish design]] [[Category:Clothing companies of Finland]] [[Category:Clothing brands]] [[Category:Finnish brands]] [[Category:High fashion brands]] [[Category:Manufacturing companies based in Helsinki]] [[Category:Design companies established in 1951]] [[Category:Manufacturing companies established in 1951]] [[Category:Companies listed on the London Stock Exchange]] [[Category:Companies listed on Nasdaq Helsinki]] [[Category:Eyewear brands of Finland]] [[Category:Finnish companies established in 1951]]
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