Editing Mohair

{{Short description|Natural fiber (hair) of the Angora goat}}
{{For|the band|Mohair (band)}}
{{more citations needed|date=October 2024}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2024}}
[[File:ull mohair.jpg|thumb|Mohair wool]]
[[File:Colored Angora Goat.jpg|thumb|An [[Angora goat]]]]
'''Mohair''' (pronounced {{IPAc-en|ˈ|m|oʊ|h|ɛər}}) originated from the Arabic word [مهير] and it is a fabric or [[yarn]] made from the hair of the [[Angora goat]] (not [[Angora wool]] from the fur of the [[Angora rabbit]]). Both durable and resilient, mohair is lustrous with high sheen,<ref name=1911EB /> and is often blended to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair takes dye exceptionally well. It feels warm in winter due to excellent insulating properties, while moisture-wicking keeps it cool in summer. It is durable, naturally elastic, flame-resistant and crease-resistant. It is considered a luxury fiber, like [[cashmere wool|cashmere]], [[Alpaca fiber|alpaca]], angora, and silk, and is more expensive than most sheep's wool.

Mohair is composed mostly of [[keratin]], a protein in the hair, wool, horns and skin of all mammals, but mohair's special properties are unique to the Angora goat. While it has scales like wool, they are not fully developed,<ref name=1911EB /> thus, mohair feels different from common or standard wool.

Mohair fiber is approximately 25–45 micrometres in diameter.<ref>
{{cite web
  |url= http://www.llama.org/llama_fiber.htm
  |work= International Llama Association
  |title= Llama Fiber
  |date= 17 April 2007
  |first= Beula | last = Williams
}}
</ref>
It expands in diameter with the age of the goat, growing along with the animal. Finer, softer hair from younger animals is used (for example) in scarves and shawls; the thicker, coarser hair from older animals is more often used for carpets and in heavy fabrics intended for outerwear.

The term ''mohair'' is sometimes used to describe the material in the folding roof on [[Convertible (car)|convertible]] cars. In this case ''mohair'' refers to a denim-like [[canvas]].{{citation needed|date=March 2024}}

==Production==
[[Image:Mohair sign, Camp Wood, TX IMG 1326.JPG|thumb|Mohair is vital to the economy of the [[Texas Hill Country]], including the [[Real County, Texas|Real County]] community of [[Camp Wood, Texas|Camp Wood]].]]

Shearing is done twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. One goat will produce {{convert|11|to(-)|17|lb|kg|round=0.5|order=flip}} of mohair a year.  Shearing is done on a cleanly-swept floor and extra care is taken to keep the hair clean and free of debris. The hair is then processed to remove natural grease, dirt and vegetable matter. Mohair grows in uniform locks. The Angora goat is a single-coat breed, and unlike [[Pygora Goat|pygora]] or [[cashmere goat|cashmere]], there is no need to dehair a mohair fleece to separate the coarse hair from the down hair.

South Africa is the world's largest mohair producer as of 2013, supplying around 50% of the total world production.,<ref name="production">{{cite web | url=http://www.mohair.co.za/ | title=Mohair South Africa | publisher=Mohair South Africa | access-date=3 March 2013}}</ref> yet as of 2024 some people believe that majority production has moved to Lesotho. {{Citation needed|date=May 2025}}  However, the latter statement is controversial and requires proper scrutiny. Due to animal cruelty in the South African farms, Zara, H&M, Gap, Topshop, [[Lacoste]], and many more<ref>{{cite web |last1=PETA |title=Lacoste Joins 340+ Brands in Banning Mohair After Shocking PETA Exposé |url=https://www.peta.org/blog/lacoste-bans-mohair/ |website=www.peta.org |date=5 December 2018 |access-date=5 December 2018}}</ref> will no longer sell mohair clothing.<ref>{{cite news|last1=Bhattarai|first1=Abha|title=H&M, Zara and others ban mohair products after animal cruelty investigation|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/business/wp/2018/05/01/hm-zara-and-others-ban-mohair-products-after-animal-cruelty-investigation/?mod=djemlogistics_h&noredirect=on|access-date=4 May 2018|newspaper=[[The Washington Post]]|date=1 May 2018}}</ref>

==History==
Mohair is one of the oldest textile fibers in use, produced exclusively in Turkey.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Mohair {{!}} Animal Fibre, Textile Yarn & Clothing Fabric {{!}} Britannica |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/mohair |access-date=2025-01-27 |website=www.britannica.com |language=en}}</ref> Fabric made of mohair was known in England by the early 18th century.<ref name=1911EB />
The word "mohair" was adopted into English sometime before 1570 from the Arabic: ''mukhayyar'',<ref name="OED">"Mohaire". ''The Oxford English Dictionary''.</ref> a type of haircloth, literally "choice", from ''khayyara'', "he chose".<ref name=1911EB>"Mohair". ''The Encyclopædia Britannica.'' 11th ed. 1911.</ref>

In about 1820, raw mohair was first exported from Turkey to England, which then became the leading manufacturer of mohair products. The [[Yorkshire]] mills spun yarn that was exported to Russia, Germany, Austria, etc., as well as woven directly in Yorkshire.<ref name=1911EB />

Until 1849, the Turkish province of Ankara was the sole producer of Angora goats. [[Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor|Charles V]] is believed to be the first to bring Angora goats to Europe. Due to the great demand for mohair fiber, throughout the 1800s there was a great deal of crossbreeding between Angora goats and common goats. The growing demand for mohair further resulted in attempts on a commercial scale to introduce the goat into South Africa (where it was crossed with the native goat) in 1838, the United States in 1849, Australia from 1856 to 1875, and later still New Zealand.<ref name=1911EB /> In 1849, Angora goats made their way to America as a gift from Turkey.

During the [[1960s in fashion|1960s]], a blend of mohair and wool suiting fabric known as Tonik or Tonic was developed in England. This had a shiny, color-changing appearance and was popular among [[rude boy]]s and the [[mod subculture]].<ref>[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/mohair-fabric-guide/ Gentlemans Gazette]</ref> Similar suits were worn by [[mod revival]]ists, [[skinhead]]s, and fans of [[ska punk]] and [[two tone music]] during the [[1980s in fashion|early to mid-1980s]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=iesWzLHb_GUC&dq=two%20tone%20mohair%20suit&pg=PA281 Chanting down Babylon]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=j4KsBwAAQBAJ&dq=two%20tone%20mohair%20suit&pg=PA660 American counterculture]</ref>

Today South Africa is the largest mohair producer in the world, with the majority of South African mohair being produced in the [[Eastern Cape]]. The United States is the second-largest producer, with the majority of American mohair being produced in [[Texas]]. Turkey also produces good-quality mohair. Because the goats are sheared once a year (different from South Africa), Turkey produces the longest mohair of the world.

In December 2006 the [[General Assembly of the United Nations]] proclaimed 2009 to be the [[International Year of Natural Fibres]], so as to raise the profile of mohair and other [[natural fiber]]s.

==Uses==
[[File:Merrythought teddy bear ironbridges.jpg|thumb|right|A [[Merrythought]] teddy bear made using mohair]]
[[File:Mohair lace knitted and crocheted scarf.jpeg|thumb|Mohair lace scarf, knitted with crochet trim on the ends]]
Mohair is used in scarves, winter hats, suits, sweaters, coats, socks and home furnishing. Mohair fiber is also found in carpets, wall fabrics, craft yarns, and many other fabrics, and may be used as a substitute for fur. Because its texture resembles fine human hair, mohair is often used in making high-grade doll wigs or in rooting customized dolls.

Mohair is a very soft yarn when compared with other natural and synthetic fibers. Due to mohair's lacking prominent, protruding scales along the hair's surface, it is often blended with wool or alpaca. Blending the heavily scaled wool helps the smooth mohair fibers hold their shape and stick together when spun into yarn.  Mohair is also valued for certain other unique characteristics: it is warmer than other fibers, even when used to make a light-weight garment, and is often blended with wool for this reason; and mohair fibers have a distinctive luster created by the way they reflect light. Combined with mohair's ability to absorb dyes exceptionally well, pure mohair yarns are usually recognizable for their vivid, saturated colours.

Fibers from young goats are softest and are used to manufacture yarn for clothing. Fibers from mature goats are used to produce such things as rugs and carpets.<ref name="Mohair">{{cite web|title=Mohair|url=http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/mohair.html|publisher=United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization|access-date=18 August 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140614191405/http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/mohair.html|archive-date=14 June 2014}}</ref> Mohair is also used in [[Ski skins|'climbing skins']] for [[Ski mountaineering|randonnée skiing]] and [[ski touring]]. The mohair is used in a carpet allowing the skier an appropriate ascension method without sliding downhill.

==Mohair industry worldwide==
As of 2009, world output of mohair was estimated at around 5,000 tonnes a year, down from a high of 25,000 tonnes in the 1990s. South Africa accounts for 60% of total production. South African mohair is generally exported raw or semi-processed to textile makers in Europe, the UK and the Far East.<ref name="Mohair"/> Prices for adult mohair declined in 2010 while prices for kid mohair remained the same. An emerging market for mohair producers has been China.<ref>{{cite web|title=Strong demand for adult mohair in 2011|url=http://www.woolnews.net/news/strong-demand-for-adult-mohair-in-2011/|publisher=Wool News|access-date=18 August 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120321043711/http://www.woolnews.net/news/strong-demand-for-adult-mohair-in-2011/|archive-date=21 March 2012}}</ref>

==US subsidies for mohair production==

During World War II US soldiers wore uniforms made of wool. Worried that domestic producers could not supply enough for future wars, Congress enacted loan and price support programs for wool and mohair in the [[National Wool Act of 1954]] as part of the [[1954 Farm Bill]].<ref name="usda">{{cite web|url=http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&navID=MohairCouncilofAmericaAgreement&rightNav1=MohairCouncilofAmericaAgreement&topNav=&leftNav=IndustryMarketingandPromotion&page=LambMohairCouncilofAmericaAgreement&resultType= |title=USDA Mohair Council of America Agreement |publisher=Ams.usda.gov |access-date=2012-09-09}}</ref> Despite these subsidies, wool and mohair production declined. The strategic importance declined as well; the US military adopted uniforms made of synthetic fibers, such as [[dacron]], and officially removed wool from the list of [[strategic material]]s in 1960.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://govinfo.library.unt.edu/npr/library/reports/ag01.html |title=Department of Agriculture |publisher=Govinfo.library.unt.edu |access-date=2012-09-09}}</ref> Nevertheless, the U.S. government continued to provide subsidies to mohair producers until 1995, when the subsidies were "eliminated effective with the marketing year ending December 31, 1995".<ref name="usda" /> In ''[[The Future of Freedom|The Future of Freedom: Illiberal Democracy at Home and Abroad]]'',<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=b4Trw_i-xE0C&q=history+of+mohair+subsidies&pg=PA174 |title=Illiberal Democracy on google.books |isbn=978-0-393-04764-6 |access-date=2012-09-09|last1=Zakaria |first1=Fareed |year=2003 }}</ref> [[Fareed Zakaria]] points out that the subsidies were reinstated a few years later, due in large part to the lobbying on behalf of the special interests of the subsidy recipients. By 2000, Congress had appropriated US$20&nbsp;million for goat and sheep producers.<ref name="NYT">{{cite web|author=GAIL COLLINSPublished: 13 March 2001 |url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B02E6DF113AF930A25750C0A9679C8B63&partner=rssnyt&emc=rss |title=NY Times: Public Interests; The Comeback Goats |work=New York Times |date=13 March 2001 |access-date=2012-09-09}}</ref> As of 2002, mohair producers were still able to receive special assistance loans from the U.S. government, after an amendment to eliminate the subsidy was defeated.<ref>{{cite web|author=Rep. Henry Bonilla [R-TX23] |url=http://www.govtrack.us/congress/bill.xpd?bill=h107-2330&tab=amendments |title=H.R. 2330 [107th&#93; – Amendments: Agriculture, Rural Development, Food and Drug Administration, and Related Agencies Appropriations Act, 2002 |publisher=GovTrack.us |access-date=2012-09-09}}</ref>  The U.S. currently subsidizes mohair production under the [[Marketing Assistance Loan Program]] of the [[Agricultural Act of 2014|2014 Farm Act]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/crops/soybeans-oil-crops/policy/|author=United States Department of Agriculture|title=Title I—Crop Commodity Programs|access-date=20 May 2017}}</ref>

== In popular culture ==
In the [[Elton John]] song "[[Bennie and the Jets]]," Bennie is said to wear a suit made of mohair.

In the Song "[[The Boy from New York City]]," first recorded by [[The Ad Libs]], and made popular by [[The Manhattan Transfer]], the lines "And he's cute In his mohair suit" appear.

In the [[Tom Waits]] song "[[Jockey Full of Bourbon]]", the jockey claims to have, "two pair of pants and a mohair vest."

In the ''[[Seinfeld]]'' episode "[[The Sniffing Accountant]]", Jerry's mohair sweater figures prominently into the plot.

==See also==
* [[International Year of Natural Fibres]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

== Further reading ==
* {{cite book|last=Black|first=William L|title=A new industry, or Raising the Angora goat, and mohair, for profit. Embracing the historical, commercial, and practical features of the industry|year=1900|publisher=Keystone Printing Co.|location=Fort Worth, Texas|url=https://archive.org/details/newindustryorrai00blac}}
* {{cite book|title=Practical Angora goat raising|year=1905|publisher=C.P. Bailey & Sons Co.|location=San Jose, California|url=https://archive.org/details/practicalangorag00c.p.rich}}

==External links==
{{wiktionary | mohair}}
{{Commons category|Mohair}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20080212055738/http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/goats/angora/index.htm Oklahoma State University, Breeds of Livestock – Angora goats]
* {{Cite NIE|wstitle=Mohair|year=1905 |short=x}}

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{{Fabric}}
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[[Category:Wool]]
[[Category:1960s fashion]]
[[Category:1980s fashion]]